RMweb Premium BSW01 Posted October 15, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2015 Nice work Pete. I've got (had for some time) an D1/E1 kit so your insight into the build will be quite informative. I know what you mean about the flash changing colour, it does if with full size locos too! I'll have to check out narrow planet too. Regards Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted November 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2015 Some more of my very slow progress. The tender is pretty much done - bar the rear coupling. The loco is painted, and I just need to paint and assemble the loco chassis (once I've added the balance weights, which I managed to forget, possibly due to hating having to make them....). The paint finish never looks as good in photos, especially if (like me) it's not your strong point and you've picked a complex livery. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 This is looking particularly fine. You have made a nice job of the paintwork. As you say picture never do models justice. Very good though for finding faults and errors whilst building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted December 8, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 8, 2015 Now mostly complete - it just needs final assembly and testing. I may actually get this finished before the deadline. It also looks a lot like an L class, which is no bad thing. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 You have made a lovely job of it. Not quite as elegant as the D's and E's, but still a handsome loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted December 8, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 8, 2015 The L does seem to be a halfway house between the Edwardian D and E classes, with their splashers and polished brass, and the more utilitarian Maunsell designs of a few years later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted December 29, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 29, 2015 It's pretty much done. There's a spot of mechanical tweaking to be done to make the mechanism run more smoothly, and the fallplate has somehow come unattached and needs fixing, but cosmetically the loco is complete. I could have done better at the painting - this is only my second attempt at the SR lined green livery, but overall I'm quite pleased with the result. 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) It looks good to me. I aways find it hard to get a constant white line and even black edging. Edited December 29, 2015 by N15class 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Hello Pete, I am looking at buying one of these as DJH have discontinued them, I have a couple of questions. Why did you use the Branchlines motor and gearbox rather than the DJH one? How did you arrange the pickups on the locomotive and tender? Thanks for sharing the build, I will find it useful when mine arrives. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted March 30, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) Bryan, Motors and gearboxes tend to be down to personal preference. I tend to use Branchlines gearboxes and the Mashima motors as they're what I'm familiar with. The pickups are on the driving wheels, and the rear set of tender wheels. You can see the loco pickups (just) in this picture. There's a bit of PCB stuck behind the motor, and the actual pickups are nickel silver wire attached to this. This is a slightly odd arrangement - normally you'd have the pickups on the underside of the chassis, but the plastic ashpan I fitted was in the way. Edited March 30, 2016 by pete_mcfarlane 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 (edited) Hi Pete I have started building the first of these, I am a bit confused about the chassis fixing to the body, the way the instructions read, DJH expect you to make a thread in the white-metal for the rear fixing screw under the cab, is that your understanding? (I see on yours you put the screws coming down from the body rather than going up.) Edited June 11, 2017 by gz3xzf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted June 11, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11, 2017 I'm not sure how much help I can be, as I've no longer got the instructions, so I'm not entirely sure what the official DJH approach is. Tapping whitemetal doesn't seem to be a very good approach - you'd only be able to screw in to it a few times before the thread started to disintegrate. Sometimes these kits use a captive nut glued/soldered in to a hole in the footplate, but as you've already noticed I tend to prefer to have the bolts coming down and then thread the nuts on to them. I'm found that easier to do on previous kit builds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 I'm not sure how much help I can be, as I've no longer got the instructions, so I'm not entirely sure what the official DJH approach is. Tapping whitemetal doesn't seem to be a very good approach - you'd only be able to screw in to it a few times before the thread started to disintegrate. Sometimes these kits use a captive nut glued/soldered in to a hole in the footplate, but as you've already noticed I tend to prefer to have the bolts coming down and then thread the nuts on to them. I'm found that easier to do on previous kit builds. ;Yep, I didn't think it was too good tapping the W/M, I decided to use one of the nuts and "make room for it" under the footplate. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted July 1, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 1, 2019 I know this dates from a year or two back but I have just found it and since I have a DJH "L" kit its all very useful, many thanks for all your useful research and info. Kind regards, Richard B 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Almost a year since Richard bumped the thread. I've just managed to acquire an L too. I think I might "Cheat" and make mine 1768 too, as i've got a spare Bachmann C tender floating around! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 On 01/05/2015 at 23:13, pete_mcfarlane said: I've now detailed the chassis, and it's ready for a coat of etch primer. The brake gear is from a Mainly Trains etc - I think it's intended for a Maunsell loco. It replaced the cast DJH brake shoes, which are nice castings but a bit basic. Having read DLT's thread about his Southern kitbuilds I decided to make the brake gear removable, so it fits in to 1.5mm tubing attached to the chassis sides. The plastic firebox looks huge but is definitely the correct size - you can see how much empty space DJH left under the chassis, so adding this should improve the look of the loco! I also replaced the sandboxes with plastic ones DJH only provide 2, which I've used for the front pair (and attached them to the underside of the footplate rather than the chassis). The (Finecast) tender chassis is no so advanced - it comes with some vague looking etched brake shoes, so I've sent off for a set of Brassmasters etched ones intended for the Bachmann C class to rectify this. Pete I am a bit late to the show and I may have skipper over the answer in your posts, I have a couple of questions about the way you do your brake gear Is the tube brass and what is the inside diameter, how far does it stick out As for the wire is it standard brass and what diameter please 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted June 17, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2020 These days I use some 1mm outside diameter/0.5mm inside diameter brass tube from Eileen's Emporium for the brake rods. The brake gear has stubs of 0.4mm or 0.33m wire to soldered to the hangers. This seems to be the stuff I bought: https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=819&name=brass-round-tube-1-0mm-x-0-5mm-x-305mm-mt4&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1085 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dave John Posted June 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 18, 2020 Like Pete I also use 1mm tube. The advantage is that you can pre paint the brake blocks and just glue them in after the wheels are in place without fear that flux ends up on the wheel tyres. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 (edited) Again thank you both I will try this method Is there a recommended length for the tube Do you fit 1 complete length through the frames and cut out the middle if required Do you use standard 0.45 brass wire or something stronger? I have just had a DJH E1 arrive in the post today Edited June 18, 2020 by hayfield Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted June 18, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 18, 2020 I fit a single length of tube through the frames, and solder in place. Sometimes the bit between the frames needs to be cut away to clear the motor or compensation beams, but installing in one piece and cutting is easier and more accurate than trying to solder two little bits of tube in place either side. I tend to cut the tube to the width of the wheels over their faces, and then use a rat tail needle file to trim it back to the correct length once the wheels are fitted (testing with the brake shoes, to get them in the correct position). 0.45mm wire should be fine. There's an alternative approach that I haven't tried where short lengths of the tube are fitted to the brake shoes, and these fit over a section of 0.45mm wire soldered to the frames in the usual way. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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