Giles Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) I'm certainly at the stage where I wonder why I bothered with this new chassis..... It wasn't meant to take this long! Like Kafka's 'Castle', the closer you get, the further away it seems... Never mind,it IS getting there- I've finished milling all the valve gear and done all the pre-assembly, and it all articulates nicely. I still have the valve spindles to make, and then paint and assemble in a right mixture. The various bits of valve gear were right on the edge (or indeed right over the edge) of what I could see to do. The milling is no problem, but drilling the ends was a nightmare to see. I used some really good quality 0.46dia drills to pilot, and then opened them out to 0.65dia,and reduced pins for assembly. The Proxxon drill is superb, and i shall use no other, as the saying goes! Milled valve gear 0-14 Bagnall by giles favell, on Flickr Cylinders SSoldered on by giles favell, on Flickr Edited July 24, 2017 by Giles 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 I've fitted balance weights using Milliput as usual, and painted the chassis and wheels. I've also used Casey's Gun Blue for the first time and it's brilliant! I also blackened the gear to make it less visible. Before painting, i also melted some lead into the cylinders and behind the buffer beam to help with the balance. Assembly of Bagnall chassis by giles favell, on Flickr 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 (edited) See if this works.... http://flic.kr/p/WQu5us Edited July 26, 2017 by Giles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 works fine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Thank you - very kind! I'm looking forward to seeing it. Sadly our local WHS has downsized and stopped selling anything remotely interesting, so it will be a while!Youre most welcome Giles. I have my MRJ on subscription for similar reasons. Atvb CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Having a spare hour yesterday, i thought I'd make some new coupling rods for the Roy Link Bagnall, to get that back into running order, as I think it was the originals having been messed about so much that was causing the poor running (combined with pick-ups). It is so nice and easy to draw up very accurate rods with precise hole spacing, laser them, and then just mill them out. Lo and behold the wheels spin nicely. I still have to try in under power though. New coupling rods for RCL Bagnall by giles favell, on Flickr 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 New coupling rods did the trick with the RCL Bagnall, which is now put back together with a new decoder and pick-up, and appears to be working fine... The RC Wrightlines Bagnall will now get its slide bars, cylinder end covers and cross head. The order of assembly of these is going to be awkward, but we'll manage. A tale of two Bagnalls by giles favell, on Flickr 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 (edited) Finally got the slide bars, cross heads and con rods on - for the final time - and it rolls very sweetly. The next job will be fitting all the valve gear which I'll take all of five minutes. Not. I ALSO picked up an Andrew Barclay on EBay last week. Much of it had been quite nicely and carefully built up, but it had gone wrong at the final hurdle, and the boiler with all its fittings had rotated between five and ten degrees. The smoke box door had rotated even more than that! Added to which, the paint job wasn't really my thing, so it all got stripped whilst I was waiting for araldite to dry, and various bit removed and rectified, the boiler positioned correctly and levelled, as is now ready for primer. It will stay like this for some time, as i shall have to build a new chassis for it (0-14).Restored Andrew Barclay by giles favell, on Flickr Edited August 6, 2017 by Giles 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted August 7, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 7, 2017 Hi Giles, Just having a catch-up session on this topic, some terrific work on the Bagnall. I haven't added any "likes" as I would probably exceed my allowance. Looking forward to seeing the layout (and you of course) at Uckfield. All the best, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 11, 2017 Author Share Posted August 11, 2017 (edited) Apart from some final painting, the RC Bagnall's chassis is now finished. I'm pleased to say it appears to work well, with the milled valve gear (the second set) coming out nicely - giving me a better appearance than an etched equivalent, being thicker (0.028") but finer in section - and certainly massively better than I could achieve by hand! The motor/gearbox/worm combination also seems very satisfactory, giving me exactly the sort of speeds I was after,Videos of the chassis under its own powerthis one is at the full 3.7v and this one is at 1.5v Edited August 11, 2017 by Giles 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 (edited) Another video with the body on..... The 650mAh battery fills the boiler. Fitting switch and charging socket will be next. http://youtu.be/-gmWJ7T4t88 Edited August 18, 2017 by Giles 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Hi Giles, I would like to ask-as for some unknown reason Youtube isnt working on my phone-what type/make of battery are you using and are you using commercial type connectors (so as to avoid shorts etc)? Many thanks, CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Hi mate, This is the battery (from Micron) http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/lipo_cyl.html The 650 mAh one....... These need wires soldering to them. When it's complete, the only connectors there will be will be one from the receiver to the motor (body to chassis) which you can just see in the video - I'm afraid I don't know the technical name for them, but you can buy 50 of them for a couple if quid on eBay. They're miniature radio control type. The other connector is a magnetic connector for charging - which I will have to watch doesn't pick anything up and short.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) Hi mate, This is the battery (from Micron) http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/lipo_cyl.html The 650 mAh one....... These need wires soldering to them. When it's complete, the only connectors there will be will be one from the receiver to the motor (body to chassis) which you can just see in the video - I'm afraid I don't know the technical name for them, but you can buy 50 of them for a couple if quid on eBay. They're miniature radio control type. The other connector is a magnetic connector for charging - which I will have to watch doesn't pick anything up and short.... Hi Giles, Many, many thanks. I think that - after having a little dabble, recently with 1/10 RC 'rock crawlers' - having decent battery/power leads (read:- 'connectors'), that prevent shorting are the key to safety and longevity. RC still appeals to me for my locos, yet I need to iron out a few things on the larger mainline Heljans et al. Kindest regards, CME. Edited August 19, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 The naked chassis, completed. This would do for either radio control or conventional style, as it has (unnecessary) compensation. For RC I should have built it rigid. Bagnall naked chassis by giles favell, on Flickr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 (edited) Using the boiler space to house the battery, it seemed sensible to have some access, and so I've made the saddle tank removable, rather than soldering it on. It meant soldering a tab on internally each side, and threading it 8BA. Bagnall removable saddle tank by giles favell, on Flickr Bagnall exposed battery by giles favell, on Flickr Meanwhile, the left hand bunker houses the receiver and the on/off switch Bagnall with switch. Receiver also fitted in bunker by giles favell, on Flickr Edited August 20, 2017 by Giles 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Wow, excellent modelling Giles, and working with white metal isn't exactly the easiest of materials to work with. Keep up the good work, I always enjoy reading your updates. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 (edited) Painting is coming on a pace, although there will be a break for a while now. All the green is done on all parts, just the black required. Then weathering. This is the saddle tank. Etch primer, rub down, followed by Halfords Brooklands Green, and then cut back and polished, as normal. The little specs are dust, as this process gives you an entirely clean and smooth finish. Bagnall saddle tank painted by giles favell, on Flickr Edited August 21, 2017 by Giles 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 And of course it needed brakes - laser cutter to the rescue- cut in Trotec , so they're also insulated! Bagnall brake block and hanger laser cut by giles favell, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 (edited) Lovely work Giles.....the brake blocks are a great idea. Do you prefer using Halfords car colours as opposed to those provided by model manufacturers? How do the finishes compare? Kind regards, CME Edited August 21, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 (edited) I know it sounds silly, but if Halfords do the right colour, i would rather use that - as being intended to paint cars, it has to cover and perform well, whereas hobby paints do vary a little. The downside to a Halfords tends to be the crudity of the spray, but with care it goes on fine, but leaves an unbearably glossy finish, which i then deal with using wet and dry (which i would also use on Humbrol). The Garratt is also a Halfords job.... Garratt by Giles Favell by giles favell, on Flickr Edited August 21, 2017 by Giles 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted August 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 22, 2017 (edited) Videos of the chassis under its own power That valve gear, and indeed the whole chassis, is an absolute work of art. It's also nice to see how such complicated gear works in slow motion. Edited August 22, 2017 by Kylestrome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Thanks Giles, Ive found similar issues with Halfords paints, the features and benefits as well as the down-sides. Some spray paints have superb nozzles and delivery, the old JLTRT cellulose versions and indeed the special mix auto sprays (£15.00 a can jobs), which are pricey but good. Halfords, primers and matt/satin blacks seem to spray very well too, nearly as good as Tamiya sprays. I wonder why such nozzles/solutions cant be applied to their (Halfords) autocolour ranges? Your results are superb though-very impressive! Kind regards, M. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted August 26, 2017 Author Share Posted August 26, 2017 Having done one show, the poor people landed with most of the operation found the constant button pressing on the Prodegy handset to change all the points very hard-going, and put in a plea for an easier, more conventional panel for point control. They even extremely kindly volunteered to get the difficult bits made up for me...... So I've made up the two panels - one 'master' panel, and one panel for the factory operator. These will then have all sorts of electronic rubbish fitted behind, which I'm assured are magical and simple, and easy for me to wire in, etc. Etc....... These panels are very simply drawn up in Autocad, and layered out of 2mm MDF. The 'track was then stained darker, and then glued back into the original panel. A second backing panel of 2mm also with corresponding holes for LEDs and switches layered out was then glued to the back to stiffen it up. Some pretty mahogany left over from our ex boat wat then cut up as a surround... Denton Brook New Control Panels by giles favell, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandbridgejct Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 I've been reading this thread and 'The End of the Line' during my breaks over the past few days and adding 'craftmanship' comments along the way. May I say I don't believe I've ever seen modelling of a higher standard, and the videos give an even clearer idea of the excellence of every detail. Things I particularly like are the walking gatekeeper, the simplicity of the wagon tippler on End of the Line, the stormy backscene, and the patina on the Garrett paintwork - apart of course from the engineering brilliance of the various trucks. This is one of those layouts (or two) that really raise the bar on what it is possible to achieve. Thank you for sharing it. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now