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Liquid Gravity


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With a sg of about 4 they are not going to be tungsten. If they are hard they'll almost certainly be steel and if soft, probably a lead-less white metal.

 

Liquid Gravity is described as a "lead free" and "non-toxic". Tungsten is quoted as having low toxicity, so as Bill says, unlikely to be W.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Steel has an SG of ~7.8 , Titanium 4.5  ........ perhaps allowing for the air spaces between the balls, it's steel?

 

 

Info from http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/specific-gravity-solids-metals-d_293.html

Tungsten is 1.7 times as dense as lead so I would have expected Liquid Gravity to have a higher SG than reported. What does it say it is on the container?

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The link in post two says that it's non magnetic, so it's not steel or iron based.

 

 

IIRC, there are certain grades of stainless steel that are austenitic - (non-magnetic)

 

Who found out the hard (i.e. expensive) way when specifying materials for a (supposedly) magnetic flowswitch.........

 

Cheers,

Mick

(edit - stainless)

Edited by newbryford
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RonnieS..... Lead is far more dense than Titanium 

 

 

I think we have a crossed line? Tungsten is the densest, affordable material. Used in Engineering for cutting tools. Titanium is a light aluminium type alloy. Used in Engineering for aircraft components due to its light weight.

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Tungsten is 1.7 times as dense as lead so I would have expected Liquid Gravity to have a higher SG than reported. What does it say it is on the container?

Tungsten beads would pack to much the same density as solid lead. A real advantage in ease of use with much lower toxicity,  would be the potential from tungsten beads; but is such a product readily available and at what price? Anyone know?

 

Lead has the benefit of being highly malleable, easily cut and readily available at a low price  - it is the most density per £1 (or even free if you know a friendly lead roofing specialist).

 

The wealthy modeller can use Gold. Dense, safe, exceedingly malleable, readily recyclable into cash at need...

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  • 1 month later...

 

I think we have a crossed line? Tungsten is the densest, affordable material. Used in Engineering for cutting tools. Titanium is a light aluminium type alloy. Used in Engineering for aircraft components due to its light weight.

 

Titanium and aluminium may be light but they certainly aren't alloys. They are metal elements. An alloy is a material composed of at least 2 other elements, at least one of which is metal. 

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Deluxe materials suggest the use of a penetrating superglue to hold liquid lead in place.

 

Be careful if you use this method. Make sure that whatever nook or cranny you fill has all it's joins fully sealed.

 

If not, as I found to my cost, the penetrating superglue will, err, penetrate. The superglue might run through the joint, cover your hand which is holding the model, sticking your fingers together (superglue was developed to stick skin together after all). It might start to dissolve the foam cradle that the whole thing is resting on. It might also cover the outside of your lovely model with superglue which might take you days to get back to the original pre-paint condition you'd just lost.

 

Imagine how you might feel if that happened when the model was already painted. But I suppose if it had been painted, the paint might have sealed the joints and I wouldn't be passing on the possibility of a bad experience.

 

Bob 

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I use tyre balancing weights, 100x60g self adhesive strips(3x10g+3x5g per strip) for around £18 on ebay. Enough there to last a lifetime of vans and coaches. For opens and flats, I am nearing the end of a 2Kg bottle of liquid lead bough a few years back. I have also used tungsten drill shanks from broken drill at my last employer, until we realised the scrap value, then we saved them up and took them to a scrap dealer and split the money between us three operators. In the past and not on railways, I have used, whisper it, mercury. I did a lot of US military aircraft at this time, 1970s, and had a ready supply from broken mercury switches at my then employer. It would be poured into a nose cone and a shaped piece made to put over it and sealed with epoxy. At that time the dangers of mercury were only becoming apparent. Eventually all models had it removed and the mercury returned to work for recycling. It is a shame that it is poisonous and expensive.

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  • 2 years later...

Hi All. I purchased a substitute for Liquid Gravity at Warley in 2017 from a famous emporium, and I tried to fix it in position with Superglue. I left it overnight toset, but the next day I picked up the wagon and some of “ fluid Lead “ fell out.

Would someone please advise me “ What went Wrong”??? Best wishes. Kevin

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Hi All. I purchased a substitute for Liquid Gravity at Warley in 2017 from a famous emporium, and I tried to fix it in position with Superglue. I left it overnight toset, but the next day I picked up the wagon and some of “ fluid Lead “ fell out.

Would someone please advise me “ What went Wrong”??? Best wishes. Kevin

Superglue, epoxy glues are best.

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As per 'JZ' above, for weighting wagons, etc., I tend to use self-adhesive 5 and 10gm lead-free weights made for balancing car wheels. Have done for years, although I am in O Gauge. May be trickier to fit them to the likes of open wagons in OO because of the smaller size of the models.  Can usefully be used to add weight to locos too.

 

These are the ones.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-STRIP-LEAD-FREE-STICK-ON-WHEEL-BALANCE-WEIGHTS-MOTORBIKE-CAR-MOTORCYCLE-VAN-/221116096305

Edited by orford
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Hi All. I purchased a substitute for Liquid Gravity at Warley in 2017 from a famous emporium, and I tried to fix it in position with Superglue. I left it overnight toset, but the next day I picked up the wagon and some of “ fluid Lead “ fell out.

Would someone please advise me “ What went Wrong”??? Best wishes. Kevin

Well I have successfully used the same stuff from the same place, But you do have to flood the superglue in as the gaps between the balls are quite large in volume so I built the glue up over several application/days allowing it to go off until the next dose

Because of these gaps I use lead sheet as much as possible only useing the shot balls where the gaps are small.

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From doing some kitchen alterations I have a nice piece of thin sheet steel off a cooker hood chimney. I used that on the floor of mineral wagon kits. Painted and weathered it adds about 30 grams to a 16T wagon. Any other weight weight on open wagons which can run empty is added to the underside with Liquid Gravity. I always apply this in layers, weighing out what I want to add into a plastic tray, coat the area to be covered with glue and scatter on the balls. When set I shake around to make sure the loose stuff is evenly distributed then add more glue. 

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Well I have successfully used the same stuff from the same place, But you do have to flood the superglue in as the gaps between the balls are quite large in volume so I built the glue up over several application/days allowing it to go off until the next dose

Because of these gaps I use lead sheet as much as possible only useing the shot balls where the gaps are small.

Hi Graham. Thank you. In the meantime? I realised that the “High Viscosity “ super glue was the problem so down to the shop ( Toolstation) I goes and purchased a thin Superglue , fingers crossed it seems to work? Best wishes. Kevin
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