Jump to content
 


NHY 581
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

I have a problem (don't we all...) and seeing as the topic of troublesome points crops up here on a regular bassis thought I ask the sheepmister for advice...

 

Peco live frog Y point 0:16.5,  when the road is set for the right hand side I have a intermittent dead spot, this can be cleared by gently wigling the under board point motor pin to move the blade off the stock rail by a nano fraction, I've adjusted up the wiper contact and was wondering if I should wire a jumper across....

 

Unfortunately I can't rewire the entire point as everything is fixed, it's been like this for a while but with not able to do anything work wise with a busted wrist thought I'd try to get to the bottom of the problem...

 

And yes I am useing gaugemaster point motors

 

 

Edited by John Besley
  • Friendly/supportive 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
32 minutes ago, John Besley said:

I have a problem (don't we all...) and seeing as the topic of troublesome points crops up here on a regular bassis thought I ask the sheepmister for advice...

 

Peco live frog Y point 0:16.5,  when the road is set for the right hand side I have a intermittent dead spot, this can be cleared by gently wigling the under board point motor pin to move the blade off the stock rail by a nano fraction, I've adjusted up the wiper contact and was wondering if I should wire a jumper across....

 

Unfortunately I can't rewire the entire point as everything is fixed, it's been like this for a while but with not able to do anything work wise with a busted wrist thought I'd try to get to the bottom of the problem...

 

And yes I am useing gaugemaster point motors

 

 

 

If the point is a bog standard electrofrog it probably relies on blade contact to power the frog. You can use a switch to  back up the blade contact. The issue with turnouts wired this way is the open blade will be at opposite polarity to the adjacent stock rail and if a wheel touches both you have a short. Dead spots usually occur when the blade contact is unreliable it may be that the passage of a loco causes a loss of contact due to the blade moving very slightly.

If the point uses blade contact you cannot wire a jumper across as that will cause a short.  The best option to avoid problems with blade contact is to isolate the blades from the frog, bond them to the adjacent stock rails and power the frog through a switch. This cannot be done with the point in position as there are links underneath that need to be cut.

 

Don

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
13 minutes ago, Donw said:

 

If the point is a bog standard electrofrog it probably relies on blade contact to power the frog. You can use a switch to  back up the blade contact. The issue with turnouts wired this way is the open blade will be at opposite polarity to the adjacent stock rail and if a wheel touches both you have a short. Dead spots usually occur when the blade contact is unreliable it may be that the passage of a loco causes a loss of contact due to the blade moving very slightly.

If the point uses blade contact you cannot wire a jumper across as that will cause a short.  The best option to avoid problems with blade contact is to isolate the blades from the frog, bond them to the adjacent stock rails and power the frog through a switch. This cannot be done with the point in position as there are links underneath that need to be cut.

 

Don

 

Hmm I did think that might be the case... at some point Exhill will be dismantled for a house move so I might just let it go untill then and either relay the point or rebuild the whole thing in a different format.

 

Where can I find the data sheets / drawing for this method please?

Edited by John Besley
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 09/12/2023 at 08:17, NHY 581 said:

Yesterday saw the stiches out of the hoof

 

On 09/12/2023 at 08:17, NHY 581 said:

once I work out exactly what I'm doing !

 

On 09/12/2023 at 08:17, NHY 581 said:

another  show invite drop in and if nothing else, I must make a list

 

How are you getting on Rob ? You've been a bit quiet on your topic. Hope all is ok?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Afternoon Rob.

 

I must have missed what happened, but I'm glad to read that your hoof is on the mend. I don't remember us talking about it at the shop.

 

Some good stuff here as usual. I'm making steady progress on the NCB project so will update that before Christmas.

 

Take it easy.

 

Wayne

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Afternoon all, 

 

Just sharing this here.......

 

☆ SWAG Members Day- SUNDAY 28th APRIL 2024☆

Rob

 

  • Like 11
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
3 hours ago, John Besley said:

I don't know if it's OK to ask but what control system do you use?

 

Of course it's okay, John but sorry, control what exactly........if you mean this thread, I have no control. Gave up years ago ! 

 

Rob. 

  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Funny 12
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
2 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

 

Of course it's okay, John but sorry, control what exactly........if you mean this thread, I have no control. Gave up years ago ! 

 

Rob. 

 

Sorry should be more specific, I am pondering changing Exhill Works from DC to DCC (to get an idea of the size and scale I work in see  the link below) while I model in 7/8ths the locos and stock are adapted 00 chassis and subframes ...

 

My questions are what do you or others use for the control system and decoders.  I know everyone will have their ultimate system bit all I need is - 

 

Hand held controller, with slide knob for preferance,  sound and light function.

 

Other niceties at some point will be background sounds - birds, machinery, industrial clatter etc.

 

But I fear drowning in expensive systems that work of a PC or phone

 

 

Edited by John Besley
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
8 minutes ago, John Besley said:

 

Sorry should be more specific, I am pondering changing Exhill Works from DC to DCC (to get an idea of the size and scale I work in see  the link below) while I model in 7/8ths the locos and stock are adapted 00 chassis and subframes ...

 

My questions are what do you or others use for the control system and decoders.  I know everyone will have their ultimate system bit all I need is - 

 

Hand held controller, with slide knob for preferance,  sound and light function.

 

Other niceties at some point will be background sounds - birds, machinery, industrial clatter etc.

 

But I fear drowning in expensive systems that work of a PC or phone

 

 

 

 

Roger. 

 

I'm new to DCC so perhaps not best placed but here are my thoughts to date. 

 

I use a NCE Powercab. I have experience of the Bachmann Dynamis system and various Gaugemaster DCC systems.

 

The Powercab is by far the one which I prefer. The ergonomics suit me, moreso at present due to my gimpy hooves. There are three says to control speed. Two sets of push buttons. The first increases/decreases speed in mutiples of either 5 or 10 depending on if you are on 28 or 128 speed steps. The second set increases/decreases in 1s. The third option is a roller. Very smooth. 

 

The background noises I can't comment on. 

 

Decoders. The best I have found is Zimo or Bachman /ESU. I've tried DCC concepts, Dapol, LAIS ( Carp !) and a few others but Zimo of Bachmann/Zimo, Bachmann/ESU are those I stick with.

 

The above combination gives me the smooth, slow speed running I want. 

 

I hope this gets the ball rolling. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

  • Like 3
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

@John Besley I also use an NCE Cab - I do sometimes use a computer whilst tweaking individual locos via a Sprog but generally (and this includes programming a loco ID) I can just use the NCE Cab to play trains, and this includes point control to 20 individual IP Digital point motors (I can even use macros to daisy chain a series of point movements for route setting).

 

DCC doesn't have to be complicated or linked to anything beyond the controller.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...