Bachmann Class 150 DCC Sound Fitting

[steven156]

The old Bachmann Class 150 was an ordeal to fit DCC Sound into, you needed to dismantle the chassis to almost its constituent parts.

 

The New Bachmann Class 150's instructions I have found are a cut and paste job when it comes to fitting a Sound Decoder- they are not correct for the new chassis to fit sound!

 

You take off the bodyshell, the three black clips on top of the lighting unit for the interior come off quite easily, this allows the lighting unit to come away. On the interior seating unit there is a black screw that when removed allows a cavity in the seating unit to be revealed that will allow a speaker to be fitted, in the cavity is the SP1 and SP2 solder contacts to allow a speaker to be fitted. As can be seen with a spare speaker - it just fits in and allows the seating unit to be replaced.

 

All I need is an actual sound decoder for the 150! Hope this is of help to everyone.

[wombatofludham]

So you still need to solder the speaker to specific connections, you can't just use the sound chips with speakers attached?

 

As I destroyed a sound chip and previous chassis trying to fit a speaker, having to cut the wires and attempting to solder it, it seems no further forward than the last chassis.  I can see me having to fork out extra to get one pre-fitted as I don't want to waste another couple of hundred quid destroying another sound chip and chassis because I can't solder...

[steven156]

So you still need to solder the speaker to specific connections, you can't just use the sound chips with speakers attached?

 

As I destroyed a sound chip and previous chassis trying to fit a speaker, having to cut the wires and attempting to solder it, it seems no further forward than the last chassis.  I can see me having to fork out extra to get one pre-fitted as I don't want to waste another couple of hundred quid destroying another sound chip and chassis because I can't solder...

 

Not sure. hopefully a Loksound Decoder's wires are long enough as I can't be bothered with using a Soldering Iron myself at the best of times.

[SRman]

For wombat: I try to avoid soldering anywhere near the decoders if at all possible. My rule for extending speaker wires is to cut them in the middle, then solder in the new stretch of wire. This means I have to do two soldered joints instead of one for each wire, but as these joints are away from both the speaker and the decoder, there is litttle chance of damaging anything if I make a hash of it.

 

If you get a 21-pin decoder with the speaker soldered to the contact pads, it is possible to retain that setup, as long as the wires are long enough to reach where you want the speaker to go - it may also require you to adapt clearances for those wires, such as filing small notches in the removable seat section on the 150 illustrated above. You would have to assess each job on its merits.

Edited December 25, 2014 by SRman

[BR(S)]

All I need is an actual sound decoder for the 150! Hope this is of help to everyone.

 

Don't know if you've made a choice yet but, like many before me, I highly recommend the Howes sound decoder for this one.  Sounds exactly like the real thing. 

 

I've got the original release 150 and fitted a bass enhanced speaker underneath the unit after a bit of surgery to the underframe equipment.  It's easier to do than you might think though.

[bigal10]

I'm with SRMAN on the soldering AWAY from the decoder, I usually put tiny 2-pin plugs in the middle of my speaker connection leads, (so that I can do test swaps on various speakers), but I ALWAYS, ALWAYS, and ALWAYS use heatshrink over the connections to avoid electrical shorts,- it's so easy to use, and you can get multitudinous colours from the likes of DCC supplies or Rapid Online, and yards of the stuff only costs a few Bob, - use of different colours is essential to make sure you get polarity right, if, like me, you use more than one speaker in a loco!

 

And,...

 

To BR(S)

C'mon, don't just leave us hangin',... Show us some pictures of your Bass-Enhanced speaker in the 150, it sounds (pun intended) as if its just what I came here for today, to improve what Madam (oops, sorry, I mean Santa) gave me yesterday, a super new Bachmann 101 DMU.

First impressions look as if Charley Petty's new "Resin enclosure for Bachmann" will also be a contender, with a decent Alan Butcher speaker.

 

What speaker did you fit, BR(S)?

 

Regards, and a belated Happy Chrimbo to all..

 

Alan.

[BR(S)]

To BR(S)

C'mon, don't just leave us hangin',... Show us some pictures of your Bass-Enhanced speaker in the 150, it sounds (pun intended) as if its just what I came here for today, to improve what Madam (oops, sorry, I mean Santa) gave me yesterday, a super new Bachmann 101 DMU.

First impressions look as if Charley Petty's new "Resin enclosure for Bachmann" will also be a contender, with a decent Alan Butcher speaker.

 

What speaker did you fit, BR(S)?

 

The speaker I used is a 4 Ohm bass enhanced (not to be confused with the larger bass reflex), which is compatible with the Loksound version 4 decoder: http://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/shop/dcc_digital_loco_sounds/high_quality_minature_speakers_housings_specialised_enclosures_wiring_plugs_sockets_etc_/995200037_loksound_v4_compatable_bass_enhanced_speakers_.php

 

It's not very easy with the original release 150 to fit a speaker inside, but with it fitted underneath you only have to run the two speaker wires up through the chassis.

 

 

 

I've just uploaded a video to my YouTube channel demonstrating the Howes 150 sounds on my layout, Highgate Wood Sidings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6h6bQiTYr-E

 

Some info about fitting the speaker is available here (not my website): http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-150nr/index.htm

 

In the Bachmann 101, I fitted a 4 ohm bass reflex speaker - positioned on its side - in the coach and removed the small area of seats to allow the sound to escape through the holes made by Bachmann in the speaker area.  The sound escapes easily.  http://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/shop/dcc_digital_loco_sounds/esu_decoder_testers_programmers_dcc_systems_high_quality_miniture_speakers/995200038_loksound_v4_compatible_bass_reflex_speaker_.php

[charliepetty]

Sugarcubes X 2 could be used, or 2 X Bass Enhanced as shown + 2 Pin connector then sound would be in both card!  Just a thought

 

PPS low profile chambers for the 20X40 can also be used, and probably louder than the bass Enhanced shown if all the holes are sealed making the chamber airtight!

These come Free of Charge if you ask when ordering the Legomanbiffo decoders!      YES FREE from a Yorkshireman!!!!!

[bigal10]

Hi Charlie,

 

You may have just answered a few questions I was about to ask you,

 

Does that same setup apply to the new Bachmann 101 ?

 

What other speakers would fit in the 101, I was thinking about the superb Alan Butcher that you sold me for the Heljan 26 with resin 'tanks' ?

 

On the basis that the ESU speaker is shallower than the ABS, I assume that the seating will go back in as per the 150, with your resin enclosure, but not with a deeper (but nicer, bassier, sound) speaker like the ABS?

 

I've just watched Hornby Mag's review video of Howes' LS4 in the Bachmann 101, which is OK-ish but a bit 'thin' sounding (although that might be the recording equipment used, and certainly not my Bose surround sound system with mega Sub,)

please tell me that Biff's is much better?

 

Regards,

Alan

[pauliebanger]

Alan,

 

Hornby Magazine issue 67 showed how to fit sugar cube speakers to a heritage DMU.

 

I used a ZIMO MX648 which fitted without modification to the model, and had a very nice sound project loaded, including a 'manual' gear change option.

 

This project has recently been upgraded to feature 'lightly loaded' or 'heavily loaded' options at the flick of an F key. This option automatically changes the inertia and the gear change intervals. So 'lightly loaded' mode accelerates more quickly and with 'shorter' gear change intervals than 'heavily loaded'. Bit like the real thing, as I recall. Lol.

 

 

Here's a photo of the speakers:

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[charliepetty]

Not done a Bachmann 101 Yet, but in the 108 & DLW I fitted the Hi-Power 2-3Watt Bass Refex internally, sound deep & loud. Got one here to do but looking at the Bachmann set up it looks somewhat poor.  Another thought I had was to use the 20X40 in the Bachmann suggested position but using clear plasticard, build a see through sound chamber as tall as I can get it to create a good loud sound, that's my next project.

 

Its is always worth experimenting with the speakers & chambers on any model.  Charlie

[bigal10]

Hi Paul,

 

Is your revised project for "early DMU" available at 15 Clifton Street?

 

I'm planning a trip to your fair city tomorrow, for a new 644D plus a couple of reblows.

 

Regards,

 

Alan

[pauliebanger]

Hi Paul,

 

Is your revised project for "early DMU" available at 15 Clifton Street?

 

I'm planning a trip to your fair city tomorrow, for a new 644D plus a couple of reblows.

 

Regards,

 

Alan

 

 

Hi Alan,

 

Yes it is.

 

What time are you planning to be there? I have to call in for some supplies, too. I was intending to go on Wednesday, but I could possibly make Tuesday instead.

 

If we were able meet up at Digitrains, I could demonstrate the brand new Class 47 sound projects I created for RAIL EXCLUSIVE's Northern Belle pair, and maybe one other loco type I'm working on right now.

 

PM me if you want to try to arrange a meet.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[bart2day]

Hi everyone. I wonder if someone can help me. I bought a loksound 4 with 20x40 speaker (which I removed from its sound chamber) to fit into my 2014 version class 150. I unscrewed the interior seating as steven156 stated and inserted the speaker face down as in the pic below but it is slightly too tall and replacing the seating is not possible without bending the plastic. What is the best way to fit sound into the newer 150s and what speaker is needed?

Edited October 16, 2018 by bart2day

[charliepetty]

Hi everyone. I wonder if someone can help me. I bought a loksound 4 with 20x40 speaker (which I removed from its sound chamber) to fit into my 2014 version class 150. I unscrewed the interior seating as steven156 stated and inserted the speaker face down as in the pic below but it is slightly too tall and replacing the seating is not possible without bending the plastic. What is the best way to fit sound into the newer 150s and what speaker is needed?IMG_3637.PNG

2 X Sugarcubes between the fueltanks.

 

Charlie (DCKits)