RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 10, 2016 -beware tank welds & patches - I was thinking this was an end of life type thing but here is an early BR https://www.flickr.com/photos/64518788@N05/8417794390and a later one:https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3819/10571106203_49c8569de8_b.jpgI've got these too or 68978 to choose from to renumber mine - cant find any pics of 68978...I think the J50 is just like the class 26 diesel ... by later life every one has indivdual traits Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2016 -beware tank welds & patches - I was thinking this was an end of life type thing but here is an early BR https://www.flickr.com/photos/64518788@N05/8417794390 and a later one: https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3819/10571106203_49c8569de8_b.jpg I've got these too or 68978 to choose from to renumber mine - cant find any pics of 68978... I think the J50 is just like the class 26 diesel ... by later life every one has indivdual traits Nice pictures you've found there, Russ! I was thinking about these welded patches myself, and wondering whether they could be made from 5 thou Plastikard, or even thin paper. Obviously you'd have to paint them but that shouldn't be too difficult as the locos are plain black, and weathering should take care of any differences in finish to the rest of the loco. As you say, each one was no doubt different so ideally it'd be good to find pictures of both sides of the same engine, taken at around the same time.... Modelmasters also do sheets of transfers for smokebox door numberplates; sheet 4124 is for Eastern Region locos but as far as I can see only includes one J50: http://www.modelmasterdecals.com/BRSteamLoco.php Pacific Models do numberplates printed on paper, no J50s listed (at the moment) but they also advertise that they can do custom-made plates: http://www.pacificmodels.co.uk/smokebox-numberplates/ I haven't used them myself, but they seem to be well regarded with mentions in the "Wright Writes" thread, for example. If you want metal ones, I've used the ones made by 247 Developments, and I see he lists several for J50s: http://www.247developments.co.uk/ex_lner_smokebox.html I've usually bought them from him at the shows he attends. There are other sources of etched numberplate, but haven't come across any other for J50s - others may know differently! Hope this helps! Cheers, Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Nice pictures you've found there, Russ! I was thinking about these welded patches myself, and wondering whether they could be made from 5 thou Plastikard, or even thin paper. Obviously you'd have to paint them but that shouldn't be too difficult as the locos are plain black, and weathering should take care of any differences in finish to the rest of the loco. As you say, each one was no doubt different so ideally it'd be good to find pictures of both sides of the same engine, taken at around the same time.... Funny you should say that, Steve.... Mine gained these during the week; 5 thou plasticard being the chosen stuff and very easy to work with. As you say, finding both sides of the same loco is really good luck, so I guess that counts with the one I'm doing. Incidentally, 68987 requires a couple of smaller patches per side. I'm debating whether to add them or not, since it is ex-works in my chosen period.... Cheers, 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSpencer Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 This tank loco is quite big for an 0-6-0. Probably the biggest RTR 0-6-0 tank loco on the market and dwarfs others by some margin. Did Gresley forget to add a pony? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2016 An interesting comparison! The first J50s had shorter bunkers, and would have been very similar in size to the J52, above in your picture, with which they share the same wheelbase I believe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 An interesting comparison! The first J50s had shorter bunkers, and would have been very similar in size to the J52, above in your picture, with which they share the same wheelbase I believe. Out of interest, how much shorter were the bunkers (and indeed frames) of those earlier locos? I feel a cunning plan coming on.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2016 Might be an interesting project, Tim! According to the Green Book, the bunkers were originally 3ft. 0 5/8 ins. long, and were extended to 4ft 2ins. long. It says this necessitated an extension of the frames by 1ft 4ins; originally they had a 'sandwich-type' rear buffer beam which was replaced by a 1" thick steel plate (so the buffer beam was thinner than originally). I see the Isinglass Models range of drawings includes one for each of the J50 sub classes, Drawings 393-395. http://www.isinglass-models.co.uk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 This tank loco is quite big for an 0-6-0. Probably the biggest RTR 0-6-0 tank loco on the market and dwarfs others by some margin. Did Gresley forget to add a pony? He was after maximum adhesion for the transfer freight work on the GNR's West Riding lines which had some heavily graded sections; the class was designed to replace 0-6-0 tender locos on these turns. I believe these were the heaviest 0-6-0T type built for a UK railway company. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 10, 2016 He was after maximum adhesion for the transfer freight work on the GNR's West Riding lines which had some heavily graded sections; the class was designed to replace 0-6-0 tender locos on these turns. I believe these were the heaviest 0-6-0T type built for a UK railway company. Similar to what I read - outright power is only one side of the coin , maximum traction depends also on outright power vs. mass . these locos were relative to class 4 whereas many 0-6-0 tanks or tenders were in the Class 3 specification, they were well able to handle freights and ECS shunting that smaller locos might not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Might be an interesting project, Tim! According to the Green Book, the bunkers were originally 3ft. 0 5/8 ins. long, and were extended to 4ft 2ins. long. It says this necessitated an extension of the frames by 1ft 4ins; originally they had a 'sandwich-type' rear buffer beam which was replaced by a 1" thick steel plate (so the buffer beam was thinner than originally). I see the Isinglass Models range of drawings includes one for each of the J50 sub classes, Drawings 393-395. http://www.isinglass-models.co.uk Well, never say die and all that! It's a thought either for if/when cheap LNER ones come up at the end of this year (I'm in no hurry!) or when the J50/2 comes out in the fullness of time. Plenty of tell-tale signs that this future development has been designed into the model. I just hope the cab roof isn't retained, seeing as there are two holes in the front.... Cutting off 5mm from the chassis block at the back will be fun to say the least, though there's nothing a hacksaw can't deal with! As it is, the modular construction of these models really does lend itself to some good old-fashioned modelling/bashing. Converting mine into an early /2 was easy, so I wouldn't say it's much harder to do, at first glance. They ran down the Widened Lines anyway, so I haven't an excuse not to have one! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted January 10, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2016 Certainly food for thought, Tim. I think the bunkers were the same shape, just shorter, so potentially it might be possible to remove the length from the front of the bunker, where it meets the cab doors, to avoid having to make an 'invisible' join part way along the bunker sides. Anyway, I look forward to seeing how you go about it, in due course! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Similar to what I read - outright power is only one side of the coin , maximum traction depends also on outright power vs. mass . ... The factor of adhesion was unusually high on this class, about 5.5 even with the side tanks and bunker half empty. Typically anything over 4 was seen as adequate in UK design. (Bear in mind that factor of adhesion is 'rule of thumb' as it relates the estimated tractive effort to the design estimate of the load on the driven wheels. Neither of these were exactly accurate figures in steam engineering, and the design values changed as the machine wore in service and parts were machined.) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ427 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Funny you should say that, Steve.... Mine gained these during the week; 5 thou plasticard being the chosen stuff and very easy to work with. As you say, finding both sides of the same loco is really good luck, so I guess that counts with the one I'm doing. Incidentally, 68987 requires a couple of smaller patches per side. I'm debating whether to add them or not, since it is ex-works in my chosen period.... 68907_R_26512.jpg 68907_L_26514.jpg Cheers, Nice work with the patch panels Tim. How easy have you found it to remove the logos/numbers etc? Did you use T-cut or just scrape them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Nice work with the patch panels Tim. How easy have you found it to remove the logos/numbers etc? Did you use T-cut or just scrape them? Thanks Andrew! The numbers and crests came off very easily with Microsol; left for 5-10 minutes. I'm assuming yours finally arrived in the post? Cheers, Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ427 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Thanks Andrew! The numbers and crests came off very easily with Microsol; left for 5-10 minutes. I'm assuming yours finally arrived in the post? Cheers, Tim Thanks Tim. They did indeed. A few pics: Here it is versus a kit-built J50 on the left. The kit, of unknown provenance was bought for a snip on ebay, and was somewhat of a generic J50. I've modified it to be a late batch J50/2 although the cab roof shape is wrong. My only (slight) criticism of the model are the curved plates between the boiler and the tanks. The few photographs that show this feature show them as slightly larger and with a defined edge and some rivet detail. Some locos also seem to have the blower pipe recessed into the plate immediately before the cab. The picture of Bradford Bowling shed in the LNER engine sheds book illustrates this well. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 11, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Lovely layout and loco's Andrew was looking at that on your webpage ... #959 at Queensbury lower link in case anyone interested... my #987 version has arrived now so will see how layout/finances going before either cancelling or not... seen as lots of pics now up I'll leave it in the box till somewhere to run/store etc. The 5 thou patches look great Tim I think they will be essential! - thanks for the all the helpful transfer references too...Wikepedia has picture of a non patched in immediate nationalisation livery - its just looking to start like its needed patching - Lner lettering visible underneath. https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3f/Doncaster_Works_geograph-2377759-by-Ben-Brooksbank.jpg/1024px-Doncaster_Works_geograph-2377759-by-Ben-Brooksbank.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P1b5a-W2dbE/TlYUlkojuBI/AAAAAAAACew/ivvvLtr-2qY/s1600/Queensbury2.jpg Edited January 11, 2016 by Russ (mines a pint) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RThompson Posted January 11, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2016 Your kit built j50 looks to be from djh going by the Romford wheels and screws for the crankpins as I have one myself, finally completed a few years ago after 6 years half built and very pleased with it, needs glazing still. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenny Emily Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Finally bought ne for myself. I went for the LNER one because it looked really good with the lining. Runs beautifully out of the box, and has a reassuring weight to it.Certainly one of Hornby's best offerings to date, and at an amazing value for money price. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I'm with Jenny on this one the J50 looks great out of the box. My example showed up last night from Hattons which is a 6 day turnaround from the UK to Australia. The packaging is quite tight in the outer cover and the all the plastic clam shell. This did mean that the loco turned up in perfect condition. I have the DCC Concepts Zen decoder to plug in tonight and give it a run on the layout. Last night it was just a bit too warm (and exhaustion had caught up again with me!) So tonight it will be out with the screw drivers. I note the instructions state that the average decoder will require a weight to be removed from one of the side tanks. I hope as the decoder I am using is a direct plug style, I have never used one of these before, fits the space available. I guess the Keep alive may not be able to be installed due to space, Though I hope it is not required! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaymzHatstand Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I've fitted a standard Hornby 8 pin decoder in my LNER liveried example, the tank weight needed removing to fit it, and it's very snug! I think a direct chip will be replacing it in the near future. A stay alive cap will fit in the tank recess, or through some ingenuity on the floor of the cab. I've not had any issues necessitating a stay alive yet, but I've also not had an extended operating session with it! Cheers J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 OK finally the planets had aligned at 9.30 last night, collected the screw driver the loco and Decoder.... Sat at the dinner table for 10 minutes Took the body off the J50... watch the sanding pipes when your putting the body down on the side or top. The first thing that struck me was the screws were not over tightened. so it all came to bits easily. I then had a look for the capacitors which have now been installed on the blanking plug thankfully. I didn't find any sneaky ones! pluged the Zen nano in ran the chassis bear on the layout. which was all OK except that I had the decoder around the wrong way! So swaped the decoder around reinstalled the body without the keep alive as with JaymzHatstand I did not find any requirement to install the Keep alive on my layout. The one thing to be aware of when putting the body back on is to double check the sanding rods are out of the way. Both of mine survived but I think one might need to be replaced in years to come in brass in years ahead. The loco then ran around for 20 minutes light engine then 10 minutes with 14 wagons. It was coping well with the 30% grade on my layout quite well. There was more than enough room for the decoder... it may even allow the keep alive above the decoder but I have not tried that! The only thing I will have to do is reduce the starting voltage down a little as speed step 1 could be reduced. This has more to do with the decoder than the locomotive. Oh it was the LNER liveried Loco... they are a very plain loco. It may get a little powder weathering eventually! Though it is now in the que for a set of driver and fireman! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilloverland Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 I finally got round to getting mine out of the box, intending to run it in on DC - I was met by a loud buzzing noise and no movement! I check the meshing of the gears and all looked well but the motor was hot! Anyway, removed the dcc blanking plug, fitted a spare Bachmann chip and tried it on the dcc layout, happily it now works with smooth and near silent running - the blanking plug has been binned! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwich station Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 I bought one of these yesterday. Looks and runs great on DC pulling a couple of Gresley NC teaks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) Last night a friend brought over his J50 to fix. He had literally run it for less than 5 minutes up and down his plank layout when one of the centre con rod bolts (screws?) dropped out resulting in an out of quarter set of wheels. After removing the keeper plate it was an easy fix with the nut driver and a dab of blue locktite. Also, we found two more con rod bolts loose, one so loose that I could back it off with my fingers. Removed and put back in with a dab of blue locktite to stop them coming loose again. Test ran it and it was rather jerky in both directions. Now to the really interesting bit. Inspection showed that whilst screwed in firmly, one of the con rod bolts on the rear wheels was not screwed all the way home such that the con rod could slip down into a gap between the bolt boss and the wheel face. Rather hard to see. Anyway, screwed it all the way home and almost all jerkiness gone. After running for 1/2 hour in each direction effectively all the jerkiness is gone and it is now a very nice runner. As a matter of interest I had exactly the same problem with a Bachmann Butler Henderson a couple of years ago. Edited February 3, 2016 by Theakerr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classsix T Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 What a tasty little model. I hope, for my bank balance's sake, these never made it to the lines East of Cambridge - Long Melford/Lavenham way? C6T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now