Dettingen GCR might have been layout

[jwealleans]

If you use a top hat (suitably shortened)  instead of the Romford washer on the leading crankpin you start with less material to file away.   I know Gibson does them but I have some brass ones - maybe from Branchlines?

[richard i]

9 hours ago, jwealleans said:

If you use a top hat (suitably shortened)  instead of the Romford washer on the leading crankpin you start with less material to file away.   I know Gibson does them but I have some brass ones - maybe from Branchlines?

Thanks I will keep it as an option as I puzzle through how to solve this. It might take some time as I get very short stints to work on it at present.

richard 

[richard i]

Advice has paid off. Thank you.

the motion all now rotates. the steps do not seem to foul. I am waiting for the loctite to glue the cylinders in place. 
I needed to widen the cylinders more. Tony, do not worry, they do not sit outside the running plate. File crankpin washers to a micron thick and put washers on the leading set of coupled wheels’ axle to stabilize the sideways movement otherwise I was just chasing the error either side as they moved sideways.
looks like we are now back on to the body. Cosmetics now that is simpler to work on. Probably somewhere between 50 and 100 more parts to make and fit. 
Sorry for the background, my soldering block has a burnt patina effect which is much more glaring in photos than in real life.
Thank you for the advice.

richard 

[Keith Turbutt]

Well done Richard. I knew you would get there in the end. Will you be giving it a run tomorrow night?

[richard i]

2 hours ago, Keith Turbutt said:

Well done Richard. I knew you would get there in the end. Will you be giving it a run tomorrow night?

It is in bits. It would need rebuilding. It might get a test but I am more inclined to crack on with it.

richard 

[t-b-g]

6 hours ago, richard i said:

Advice has paid off. Thank you.

the motion all now rotates. the steps do not seem to foul. I am waiting for the loctite to glue the cylinders in place. 
I needed to widen the cylinders more. Tony, do not worry, they do not sit outside the running plate. File crankpin washers to a micron thick and put washers on the leading set of coupled wheels’ axle to stabilize the sideways movement otherwise I was just chasing the error either side as they moved sideways.
looks like we are now back on to the body. Cosmetics now that is simpler to work on. Probably somewhere between 50 and 100 more parts to make and fit. 
Sorry for the background, my soldering block has a burnt patina effect which is much more glaring in photos than in real life.
Thank you for the advice.

richard 

 

Nice one Richard. You are on the home straight now............

 

The only potential difficulty to the running is how the bogie wheels manage for clearance around the cylinders.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

[richard i]

2 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

Nice one Richard. You are on the home straight now............

 

The only potential difficulty to the running is how the bogie wheels manage for clearance around the cylinders.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

Already checked that prior to working on the rods.

[richard i]

On to the rear carrying wheels. I could have looked to convert the white metal mc Gowan ones. However, the cab structure is different underneath so I felt it needed to be scratchbuilt. Plus the white metal one does not have the front bend on it.

I made the paper template. Seen here.

considered making it in plastic with archer’s rivets but the gentle curve on the front would be more complicated to make. So to brass. Plus soldering to the running plate will give more secure fixing. Rivets put in with a tool. Tried to get each 1mm apart and in line. 

I had some lost wax castings for the axle boxes however the spring hangers are too short. I have tried drilling to replace with brass rod. However, my drills will not touch it. So I have created a mould and am making a pair of axle boxes based on the white metal version. The green blob setting on the right.

Richard 

[richard i]

A question for anyone near Barrow hill or loughbough / knows the answer.

Are you able to measure the firebox fittings?

looking at the photo, the round fittings on the firebox side as pointed at by the biro. How wide are they? How much do they stick out? Depending on the drawing they are drawn between 0.3 mm and 1.5mm in 4mm to the foot scaled drawings in width.

Thanks

richard 

[richard i]

When visiting TW he took a picture of the completed rear wheel outside axle boxes assembly. 

work above the footplate now.

richard

[Caley Jim]

3 hours ago, richard i said:

looking at the photo, the round fittings on the firebox side as pointed at by the biro. How wide are they? How much do they stick out? Depending on the drawing they are drawn between 0.3 mm and 1.5mm in 4mm to the foot scaled drawings in width.

These are the boiler washout plugs, so should be a standard GCR fitment.

 

Jim

[richard i]

18 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

These are the boiler washout plugs, so should be a standard GCR fitment.

 

Jim

Jim,

Thank you for the response which is True, but I do not have a diagram of one. I have tried to measure on different loco drawings I have hence the range in sizes. I do not think on overall drawings a mm either way was of concern to the person drawing it as it was a standard fitting. 
what about other companies? They must all be within a range as they fulfill the same function.

thanks

richard

[billbedford]

The GC put brass caps over the washout plugs. These seem, from photos, to have been slightly larger in diameter than the boiler handrails, say around 2-2.5 inches. They protruded from the cladding by a similar amount. 

[richard i]

On 10/08/2024 at 05:04, billbedford said:

The GC put brass caps over the washout plugs. These seem, from photos, to have been slightly larger in diameter than the boiler handrails, say around 2-2.5 inches. They protruded from the cladding by a similar amount. 

0.9mm rod then it seems.

thanks.

 

next question does anyone have a good photo looking at the cab inside to work out the layout. I can find a class 13 single, a D6 an O4 and I have models of a D11 and B5. All are slightly different. Just looking to get it right. You know the tender has been removed photo.

Any help gratefully received 

many thanks

richard 

[65179]

PM sent

 

Simon

[richard i]

Cab progress: with thanks for the images. They were a great help.

e.g. from lumps of plastic like this.

to a screw reverser with spring for the screw section over a brass rod, bent at the end over another brass rod to form the handle.

also the back head with regulator made from brass with the end filed and shaped in a pair of pliers to round it off for the handle.

now for the fireman’s side parts. 
richard 

[jimwal]

Well done Richard!

[richard i]

Cab done.

 

Thanks for all the help, it actually looks close to what it should.

time to move forward down the loco.

richard

[richard i]

Fine details on the outside.

the chimney and dome just placed for the shot. 
the holes are for details which have been made and test fitted but will be permanently fixed after painting. 
still needs a bit of filler and the handrails fitted before then. 
If I have missed something, now is the time to shout so I can rectify it. 
thanks

richard 

[richard i]

Does anyone know of a good chimney for an Atlantic in gcr days? 
this one is good / close but not spot on. It is about 1mm too short and 1mm off on the diameter.

is there a good one out there? Trying to avoid the brass tube and washers approach.

has anyone 3d printed one? / would 3d print one?

many thanks

Richard 

[Blandford1969]

You could always contact Jeremey Sueter and see if he will turn you one

[gr.king]

Might be worth asking at the same time for permission to use the turned item as a master for a silicone mould and resin copies. Make a decent job of those and you can sell a few to help to finance your hobby.

[richard i]

23 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

You could always contact Jeremey Sueter and see if he will turn you one

I am not sure I know him well enough to cold call him and suggest he might like to do this. I might try and add thin slithers of 0.5 plastic to the chimney and then filler which then guides my filing back……….might it work? It is just an idea.

richard 

[Jol Wilkinson]

Richard,

 

JeremySuter is a professional modeler and produces casting patterns for at least one 4mm kit producer. I am sure he will be pleased to help.

 

He also runs the S4 Stores and can be contacted via;

 

stores@scalefour.org

 

Jol

[richard i]

I remeasured the chimney and drawing. This time with calipers rather than a ruler trying to measure a cylinder.

the only real discrepancy was 0.3mm in height. I can live with that. 
So parts got fitted and we are pretty much there with the build. Perhaps a little filler and definitely a clean up before painting.

As keen as I am to get on to paint before the weather permanently turns, I do not want to rush and have gaps or solder/ filer where they should not be.

I give you: the Atlantic .

richard