Sirdouglas' O gauge

[844fan]

this one?

http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/LBSCR_B4_loco_files/RIMG0393.jpg

 

 

the wheels are now painted and left to dry. I couldnt take off the rods because the crank pin nuts wouldnt come off, when i assembled them a small drop of super glue was put onto the thread to stop them coming off on their own but now when trying to take them off the crankpin bolt just spins in its hole and i cant get a screwdriver to the head behind, so it was quicker and easier to take the wheels off instead

Rebecca (140) by Sam, on Flickr

Quite a lovely livery for your little Kitson. For my Kitson I'm going for a blue with white and teal stripes and lining much like how the photo you showed (I think it was you so pardon me if I am wrong) on the Kitson topic. I think it'll look quite smart and while the blue will be a differnt shade I got the idea from Bluebell the P class who is the namesake of her railway. Bluebells forever!

[sir douglas]

this SECR terrier "Bluebell" on the Bluebell railway, i dont think it was me that posted it as i dont normally have an interest in southern locos

https://www.bestofengland.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Bluebell-railway-1-2.jpg

 

another blue which looks nice is Caledonian with black & white lining

https://robertday154.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/e11_8633.jpg

 

 

 

i took the Kitson down to the club last night for a run but it wouldnt, firstly i thought it was because i had forgotten to clean the paint off the wheel treads but then i found that one of the wires had frayed and snapped at the plug

Edited September 19, 2017 by sir douglas

[sir douglas]

wheels cleaned and wire soldered back on.

 

On sunday i ordered some wheels and bearings from Slaters which arrived today, a pack of 1/8th bearings to build the manning wardle and the Knowles petrol and 2 packs wheels for the Knowles. The prototype wheels were 2'6" but since i can get spoked wheels with crankpins in that size i went up to the nearest at 2'9", these are the Slaters TVR wheels which i have previosly used on the Kerr Stuart.

 

i was going to do the Manning wardle next but i'm going to do the Knowles instead as it'll be a simple and quick build

[sir douglas]

the Knowles has been started

 

The drawing has been altered for the 2' 9" wheels and made the chassis drawing. bottom left is the pack of bearings, then the wheels, befferbeams and the buffers

Knowles (4) by Sam, on Flickr

 

main frames

Knowles (6) by Sam, on Flickr

 

brass cast buffer stocks, they have a square base so i'll need to work on them to match the buffers on the photo

Knowles (5) by Sam, on Flickr

 

close up of the buffers

 

the profile

 

coupling rods, one of them finished

Knowles (8) by Sam, on Flickr

[sir douglas]

After filing down the other coupling rod it was time to drill. both holes were drilled in the first road and one in the second, one hole on both rods were reamed just enough for a 10BA bolt to hold the 2 rods together while the other hole in the second rod was drilled using the hole in the first rod as a guide

knowles (9) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Again using the first rod as a guide, the pilot holes foir the axles were drilled

knowles (10) by Sam, on Flickr

 

The buffer holes and the hook slots were drilled out of the buffer beam and the ends of the frames marked on

knowles (11) by Sam, on Flickr

[sir douglas]

A smooth running rolling chassis with buffer stocks

Knowles (13) by Sam, on Flickr

 

The buffers have been filed down but i couldnt quite get the right profile so i compromised with just a single inward curve

 

one of them done

Knowles (12) by Sam, on Flickr

 

and all four done and glued to the chassis

Knowles (14) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Starting the gearbox drawing, the gears have to be angled like that so the top one and the worm avoid the hook drawbar and it also lowers the motor to not stick out into the cab as much as possible

Knowles (15) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Another screw block has been made out of a brass wire connector and brass wire soldered together set into 2 holes drilled into the gear, and what is proving very useful is

 my 1/8th drill bit from Wilkinsons a few weeks ago, to drill out the axle hole in the gear

http://www.wilko.com/all-power-tools/wilko-drill-bit-high-speed-steel-32mm-2pk/invt/0286644

 

Knowles (16) by Sam, on Flickr

Edited September 22, 2017 by sir douglas

[sir douglas]

well i did have a roling chassis, while going through the book again, ive noticed a mistake, back when originally made the drawing about 4 months ago i misread the length as 15' over buffers but its actually 15' over bufferbeams so i have made thew chassis to 12' over bufferbeams, so the chassis has been taken apart and 1' 6" extensions will be stuck on the ends of the frames to take it up to 15'

[sir douglas]

last night i stuck together the extensions onto the frames but it turned out a little wonky and ive noticed that the axle holes are little out vertically so im going to cut new frames

[sir douglas]

new frames were cut, the chassis stuck together and the wheel fitted, it runs very freely, the gearbox has been built and it runs. The gearbox has now been fitted to the chassis and the retaining bracket soldered on to the gearbox side with the retaining pin through the chassis frames, a start has been made on the pick ups

 

photos and a video in due course but im not in a position to get them off my camera and uploaded right now

[sir douglas]

here we go then,

 

First off the gearbox frames freshly cut

Knowles (17) by Sam, on Flickr

 

gearbox frames assembled apart from the motor

Knowles (18) by Sam, on Flickr

 

chassis and gearbox

Knowles (19) by Sam, on Flickr

 

finished gearbox fitted to chassis

Knowles (23) by Sam, on Flickr

 

test video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pht1e3j0GYE

 

cutting and bending phospher strip for the pickups

Knowles (24) by Sam, on Flickr

 

rectangles cut out of the frames for the pick ups

Knowles (25) by Sam, on Flickr

 

pickups with wires soldered on

Knowles (27) by Sam, on Flickr

 

gluing on styrene clips for the pickups to sit in

Knowles (29) by Sam, on Flickr

 

chassis before and after gluing in the plug

Knowles (30) by Sam, on Flickr

Knowles (31) by Sam, on Flickr

 

test run video under weight of lead strip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kMjZPb__KM

[sir douglas]

photos from Yesterday not today

 

cut out the body sides and footplate

Knowles (33) by Sam, on Flickr

 

a side after filing and sanding

Knowles (38) by Sam, on Flickr

 

the colour chosen for this build is a cream XF-57 buff

Knowles (37) by Sam, on Flickr

[sir douglas]

buffers and hooks attached to the chassis

Knowles (40) by Sam, on Flickr

 

the side were glued to the footplate with blocks either side of the opening and end pieces with cut outs for the buffer bolts and hook springs, these pieces strengthen the sides and give a fixing point when the top of the bonnets are wrapped on

Knowles (39) by Sam, on Flickr

 

internal strengthening and gives a fixing point for the bottom of the cab ends and the tops of the bonnets

Knowles (41) by Sam, on Flickr

 

the body sat on the chassis and there is now also strengthening across the top of the cab

Knowles (42) by Sam, on Flickr

Edited September 28, 2017 by sir douglas

[Northroader]

Looking good, that's shaping into something with real character. I'm envious of the pace you can produce jobs at.

[DLT]

Some terrific modelling here,

Cheers, Dave.

[sir douglas]

thanks chaps

[Dava]

Space for plenty of lead inside those bonnets [i did a battery electric loco from plasticard last year and it needed lots of weight!].

 

Shaping up into a nice model of unusual prototype.

 

Dava

[Guest Isambarduk]

This little loco is come on very well, Sam.  I am enjoying your write-up.

 

A small suggestion for the future, if I may: you would make life rather easier for yourself if you used thinner wires to connect up the motor.  I use wire from an old transformer or coil, which is plenty thick enough (just as thick as the wire in the motor) and it is insulated with enamel, rather than a plastic coating, so it is very easy to manipulate into position - and then it stays there!  If necessary, the enamelled wire may be straightened (clamp one end in the vice and then gently pull the other end with pliers until you feel it just 'give') and used for visible runs or for runs that should not be visible but are less obtrusive if they are thin and straight.

 

David

[sir douglas]

my next problem is the inside of the cab, since there is so little info in the book, the controls inside the cab will have to be complete guess work all  i know is that the engine is about in the middle but it is not known exactly what engine was used except it was 4 cylinder and 30hp, i'm going to use pics online of C.1900 petrol engines as a guide and make a generic engine block with a curved cut out for the motor, the position of the brake column will have to be where ever i want to be and i'll have to guess what kind of throttle handle to use

 

I'm likely going to copy the cab controls of Hunslet "Courage" as i imagine it would have been similar, very simple and minimal, the only controls are brake throttle and gear stick

http://www.leedsengine.info/leeds/images/Hunslet%20Engine/Standard%20Gauge%20Loco/Diesel/he1786%20hud%20sweet%20pea%20middleton%20(1).jpg

 

 

while on the subject of this, i have driven Courage for a few minutes at middleton on a "driver for a fiver", and its just occured to me to put it on my to build list

[5050]

my next problem is the inside of the cab, since there is so little info in the book, the controls inside the cab will have to be complete guess work all  i know is that the engine is about in the middle but it is not known exactly what engine was used except it was 4 cylinder and 30hp, i'm going to use pics online of C.1900 petrol engines as a guide and make a generic engine block with a curved cut out for the motor, the position of the brake column will have to be where ever i want to be and i'll have to guess what kind of throttle handle to use

 

I'm likely going to copy the cab controls of Hunslet "Courage" as i imagine it would have been similar, very simple and minimal, the only controls are brake throttle and gear stick

http://www.leedsengine.info/leeds/images/Hunslet%20Engine/Standard%20Gauge%20Loco/Diesel/he1786%20hud%20sweet%20pea%20middleton%20(1).jpg

 

 

while on the subject of this, i have driven Courage for a few minutes at middleton on a "driver for a fiver", and its just occured to me to put it on my to build list

 

These any help Sam?  Taken in the Simplex at Burton Brewing Museum.  Roughly the same size as the one you're building I reckon.

 

 

[sir douglas]

thats another thing whether i need a radiator or would it be air cooled

[Northroader]

More likely to be water cooled with a radiator, I'd say.

[sir douglas]

in preperation for adding the lead at a later date, the coupling slots have been box over

knowles (43) by Sam, on Flickr

 

knowles (44) by Sam, on Flickr

 

Last night the club i took the Knowles for a test run and at the same time Jamie brought some nearly completed wagons to test run as well so we did both at the same time. there are strips of lead sat across the body for traction, but it handled the wagons with ease as they arent weighted yet

knowles (45) by Sam, on Flickr

 

video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE9T3fe-lDU&feature=youtu.be

 

and then i got out my wagons that i brought along, which are weighted and thew loco struggled a bit with them

(knowles (47) by Sam, on Flickr

Edited September 30, 2017 by sir douglas

[Ruston]

Hi Sam,

 

What's the prototype for this build? I've looked back a few pages but I can't see anything that you've said that explains what it is or who built it.

[sir douglas]

page 17 post 424 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=2735011

 

Petrol of 1901 built by Knowles of Bradford, the Engine supplied by Elsworth motors of Bradford and the chassis supplied by Hudswell, i found out about it in the late Ron Redman's Hudswell diesel book and i think that is the only place you'll find anything about it

 

pic is the page in the book with the only photo

knowles hudswell (1) by Sam, on Flickr

[sir douglas]

suddenly on the spur of the moment just after finishing another of jamie's locos i wanted to finish off the LMS van from enginelane

 

Back when i last worked on it, was applying the transfers but maybe i wasnt doing something right or maybe because they were a bit old that some of the transfers fell off, the S on one side and all of the LMS on the other so i made a painting template based on the transfers to hand paint them like i have before, and ive weathered the van with  a black dry brushing on the roof and dirtying up the sides and ends with sleeper grime brown

stippled on with a brush and then rubbed in with a tissue but only stroking upwards so the brown is stronger at the bottom and fades upwards and ends about halfway up the body, the chassis has been rubbed down with sleeper grime as well

 

the lighting on this pic isnt so good so you might not be able to see it

lms van (12) by Sam, on Flickr