844fan Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 this one? http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/LBSCR_B4_loco_files/RIMG0393.jpg the wheels are now painted and left to dry. I couldnt take off the rods because the crank pin nuts wouldnt come off, when i assembled them a small drop of super glue was put onto the thread to stop them coming off on their own but now when trying to take them off the crankpin bolt just spins in its hole and i cant get a screwdriver to the head behind, so it was quicker and easier to take the wheels off instead Rebecca (140) by Sam, on Flickr Quite a lovely livery for your little Kitson. For my Kitson I'm going for a blue with white and teal stripes and lining much like how the photo you showed (I think it was you so pardon me if I am wrong) on the Kitson topic. I think it'll look quite smart and while the blue will be a differnt shade I got the idea from Bluebell the P class who is the namesake of her railway. Bluebells forever! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 (edited) this SECR terrier "Bluebell" on the Bluebell railway, i dont think it was me that posted it as i dont normally have an interest in southern locos https://www.bestofengland.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Bluebell-railway-1-2.jpg another blue which looks nice is Caledonian with black & white lining https://robertday154.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/e11_8633.jpg i took the Kitson down to the club last night for a run but it wouldnt, firstly i thought it was because i had forgotten to clean the paint off the wheel treads but then i found that one of the wires had frayed and snapped at the plug Edited September 19, 2017 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 wheels cleaned and wire soldered back on. On sunday i ordered some wheels and bearings from Slaters which arrived today, a pack of 1/8th bearings to build the manning wardle and the Knowles petrol and 2 packs wheels for the Knowles. The prototype wheels were 2'6" but since i can get spoked wheels with crankpins in that size i went up to the nearest at 2'9", these are the Slaters TVR wheels which i have previosly used on the Kerr Stuart. i was going to do the Manning wardle next but i'm going to do the Knowles instead as it'll be a simple and quick build Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 the Knowles has been started The drawing has been altered for the 2' 9" wheels and made the chassis drawing. bottom left is the pack of bearings, then the wheels, befferbeams and the buffers Knowles (4) by Sam, on Flickr main frames Knowles (6) by Sam, on Flickr brass cast buffer stocks, they have a square base so i'll need to work on them to match the buffers on the photo Knowles (5) by Sam, on Flickr close up of the buffers the profile coupling rods, one of them finished Knowles (8) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 After filing down the other coupling rod it was time to drill. both holes were drilled in the first road and one in the second, one hole on both rods were reamed just enough for a 10BA bolt to hold the 2 rods together while the other hole in the second rod was drilled using the hole in the first rod as a guide knowles (9) by Sam, on Flickr Again using the first rod as a guide, the pilot holes foir the axles were drilled knowles (10) by Sam, on Flickr The buffer holes and the hook slots were drilled out of the buffer beam and the ends of the frames marked on knowles (11) by Sam, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 (edited) A smooth running rolling chassis with buffer stocks Knowles (13) by Sam, on Flickr The buffers have been filed down but i couldnt quite get the right profile so i compromised with just a single inward curve one of them done Knowles (12) by Sam, on Flickr and all four done and glued to the chassis Knowles (14) by Sam, on Flickr Starting the gearbox drawing, the gears have to be angled like that so the top one and the worm avoid the hook drawbar and it also lowers the motor to not stick out into the cab as much as possible Knowles (15) by Sam, on Flickr Another screw block has been made out of a brass wire connector and brass wire soldered together set into 2 holes drilled into the gear, and what is proving very useful is my 1/8th drill bit from Wilkinsons a few weeks ago, to drill out the axle hole in the gear http://www.wilko.com/all-power-tools/wilko-drill-bit-high-speed-steel-32mm-2pk/invt/0286644 Knowles (16) by Sam, on Flickr Edited September 22, 2017 by sir douglas 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 well i did have a roling chassis, while going through the book again, ive noticed a mistake, back when originally made the drawing about 4 months ago i misread the length as 15' over buffers but its actually 15' over bufferbeams so i have made thew chassis to 12' over bufferbeams, so the chassis has been taken apart and 1' 6" extensions will be stuck on the ends of the frames to take it up to 15' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 last night i stuck together the extensions onto the frames but it turned out a little wonky and ive noticed that the axle holes are little out vertically so im going to cut new frames Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 new frames were cut, the chassis stuck together and the wheel fitted, it runs very freely, the gearbox has been built and it runs. The gearbox has now been fitted to the chassis and the retaining bracket soldered on to the gearbox side with the retaining pin through the chassis frames, a start has been made on the pick ups photos and a video in due course but im not in a position to get them off my camera and uploaded right now 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 here we go then, First off the gearbox frames freshly cut Knowles (17) by Sam, on Flickr gearbox frames assembled apart from the motor Knowles (18) by Sam, on Flickr chassis and gearbox Knowles (19) by Sam, on Flickr finished gearbox fitted to chassis Knowles (23) by Sam, on Flickr test video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pht1e3j0GYE cutting and bending phospher strip for the pickups Knowles (24) by Sam, on Flickr rectangles cut out of the frames for the pick ups Knowles (25) by Sam, on Flickr pickups with wires soldered on Knowles (27) by Sam, on Flickr gluing on styrene clips for the pickups to sit in Knowles (29) by Sam, on Flickr chassis before and after gluing in the plug Knowles (30) by Sam, on Flickr Knowles (31) by Sam, on Flickr test run video under weight of lead strip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kMjZPb__KM 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 photos from Yesterday not today cut out the body sides and footplate Knowles (33) by Sam, on Flickr a side after filing and sanding Knowles (38) by Sam, on Flickr the colour chosen for this build is a cream XF-57 buff Knowles (37) by Sam, on Flickr 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 28, 2017 Author Share Posted September 28, 2017 (edited) buffers and hooks attached to the chassis Knowles (40) by Sam, on Flickr the side were glued to the footplate with blocks either side of the opening and end pieces with cut outs for the buffer bolts and hook springs, these pieces strengthen the sides and give a fixing point when the top of the bonnets are wrapped on Knowles (39) by Sam, on Flickr internal strengthening and gives a fixing point for the bottom of the cab ends and the tops of the bonnets Knowles (41) by Sam, on Flickr the body sat on the chassis and there is now also strengthening across the top of the cab Knowles (42) by Sam, on Flickr Edited September 28, 2017 by sir douglas 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted September 28, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 28, 2017 Looking good, that's shaping into something with real character. I'm envious of the pace you can produce jobs at. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 28, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 28, 2017 Some terrific modelling here, Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 28, 2017 Author Share Posted September 28, 2017 thanks chaps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted September 28, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 28, 2017 Space for plenty of lead inside those bonnets [i did a battery electric loco from plasticard last year and it needed lots of weight!]. Shaping up into a nice model of unusual prototype. Dava Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 This little loco is come on very well, Sam. I am enjoying your write-up. A small suggestion for the future, if I may: you would make life rather easier for yourself if you used thinner wires to connect up the motor. I use wire from an old transformer or coil, which is plenty thick enough (just as thick as the wire in the motor) and it is insulated with enamel, rather than a plastic coating, so it is very easy to manipulate into position - and then it stays there! If necessary, the enamelled wire may be straightened (clamp one end in the vice and then gently pull the other end with pliers until you feel it just 'give') and used for visible runs or for runs that should not be visible but are less obtrusive if they are thin and straight. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 my next problem is the inside of the cab, since there is so little info in the book, the controls inside the cab will have to be complete guess work all i know is that the engine is about in the middle but it is not known exactly what engine was used except it was 4 cylinder and 30hp, i'm going to use pics online of C.1900 petrol engines as a guide and make a generic engine block with a curved cut out for the motor, the position of the brake column will have to be where ever i want to be and i'll have to guess what kind of throttle handle to use I'm likely going to copy the cab controls of Hunslet "Courage" as i imagine it would have been similar, very simple and minimal, the only controls are brake throttle and gear stick http://www.leedsengine.info/leeds/images/Hunslet%20Engine/Standard%20Gauge%20Loco/Diesel/he1786%20hud%20sweet%20pea%20middleton%20(1).jpg while on the subject of this, i have driven Courage for a few minutes at middleton on a "driver for a fiver", and its just occured to me to put it on my to build list 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 my next problem is the inside of the cab, since there is so little info in the book, the controls inside the cab will have to be complete guess work all i know is that the engine is about in the middle but it is not known exactly what engine was used except it was 4 cylinder and 30hp, i'm going to use pics online of C.1900 petrol engines as a guide and make a generic engine block with a curved cut out for the motor, the position of the brake column will have to be where ever i want to be and i'll have to guess what kind of throttle handle to use I'm likely going to copy the cab controls of Hunslet "Courage" as i imagine it would have been similar, very simple and minimal, the only controls are brake throttle and gear stick http://www.leedsengine.info/leeds/images/Hunslet%20Engine/Standard%20Gauge%20Loco/Diesel/he1786%20hud%20sweet%20pea%20middleton%20(1).jpg while on the subject of this, i have driven Courage for a few minutes at middleton on a "driver for a fiver", and its just occured to me to put it on my to build list These any help Sam? Taken in the Simplex at Burton Brewing Museum. Roughly the same size as the one you're building I reckon. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 thats another thing whether i need a radiator or would it be air cooled Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted September 29, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 29, 2017 More likely to be water cooled with a radiator, I'd say. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) in preperation for adding the lead at a later date, the coupling slots have been box over knowles (43) by Sam, on Flickr knowles (44) by Sam, on Flickr Last night the club i took the Knowles for a test run and at the same time Jamie brought some nearly completed wagons to test run as well so we did both at the same time. there are strips of lead sat across the body for traction, but it handled the wagons with ease as they arent weighted yet knowles (45) by Sam, on Flickr video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jE9T3fe-lDU&feature=youtu.be and then i got out my wagons that i brought along, which are weighted and thew loco struggled a bit with them (knowles (47) by Sam, on Flickr Edited September 30, 2017 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted September 30, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 30, 2017 Hi Sam, What's the prototype for this build? I've looked back a few pages but I can't see anything that you've said that explains what it is or who built it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 page 17 post 424 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=2735011 Petrol of 1901 built by Knowles of Bradford, the Engine supplied by Elsworth motors of Bradford and the chassis supplied by Hudswell, i found out about it in the late Ron Redman's Hudswell diesel book and i think that is the only place you'll find anything about it pic is the page in the book with the only photo knowles hudswell (1) by Sam, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 suddenly on the spur of the moment just after finishing another of jamie's locos i wanted to finish off the LMS van from enginelane Back when i last worked on it, was applying the transfers but maybe i wasnt doing something right or maybe because they were a bit old that some of the transfers fell off, the S on one side and all of the LMS on the other so i made a painting template based on the transfers to hand paint them like i have before, and ive weathered the van with a black dry brushing on the roof and dirtying up the sides and ends with sleeper grime brown stippled on with a brush and then rubbed in with a tissue but only stroking upwards so the brown is stronger at the bottom and fades upwards and ends about halfway up the body, the chassis has been rubbed down with sleeper grime as well the lighting on this pic isnt so good so you might not be able to see it lms van (12) by Sam, on Flickr 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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