Hornby Royal Scot Spare Search

[TonyW]

Hornby Royal Scot R2630

 

Can anyone help with a part number for the item marked on the attached Hornby Service Sheet No HSS 305C

 

 

The part is used to mount the DCC socket but its main function is to lock down the gear assembly and the front of the motor.

 

The loco is about 7 years old but has only run for about 2 hours, the drive started slipping and on inspection I found the casting had fractured allowing the front of the motor to raise and come out of mesh with the gear.  On dismantelling the gear casing part fell into four pieces - I don't think araldite is an option any more!  Suspect it has been attacked by the infamous China metal worm.

 

A supprising number of parts are not listed on the service sheets, I have looked at Peter's Spares (no connection) web site but no luck.

 

Something is/was moving on Rugby Midland at last.

[micklner]

Doesn't look like its available as a spare as not numbered. Try Hornby direct or ebay for a second hand chassis

[TonyW]

Doesn't look like its available as a spare as not numbered. Try Hornby direct or ebay for a second hand chassis

There is a second hand chassis on ebay but it is quoted as the gears don't mesh, I suspect is suffering from the same breakage.

 

I will try Hornby tomorrow otherwise it will be a bit of micro engineering with some scrap brass, just need to hold the gear in place and the front of the motor down, the DDC socket can be moved.

 

Did look at Comets web site for a chassis kit and learnt the sad news, very sad, a really helpful chap.

[rodger5591]

Hi Tony

This seems to be a problem with the Hornby Scots. I have 2 with a similar problem, where the plastic bracket holding the motor in position has broken. I got them working again by filling the area between the boiler and the motor with tissue to put gentle downward pressure on the motor so the worm/gears engaged, and putting a spot of impact adhesive between motor and frame to stop it rotating (double sided tape was too thick - it kept the worm from engaging the gears properly)

Rodger

[TonyW]

Hi Tony

This seems to be a problem with the Hornby Scots. I have 2 with a similar problem, where the plastic bracket holding the motor in position has broken. I got them working again by filling the area between the boiler and the motor with tissue to put gentle downward pressure on the motor so the worm/gears engaged, and putting a spot of impact adhesive between motor and frame to stop it rotating (double sided tape was too thick - it kept the worm from engaging the gears properly)

Rodger

Hi Rodger,

Thanks, that looks like an option.

I will call Hornby and see if the part is available, if not I will have a look through my box of scrap brass etches and see if I can fabricate a frame to hold the gear in place and clamp the front of the motor down.  I have a couple of Patriots which have the same part, they have not been run for over five years so may have or develop the same problem.

Tony

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

...putting a spot of impact adhesive between motor and frame to stop it rotating...

Never been happy with this motor mount / gear cover, because of the ineptly positioned single securing screw. All my Hornby models with this arrangement the motor is glued in with Evostick between the cradle cast in the block and the motor can. That holds the motor with no need for any mechanical clamping, and having used this technique or over thirty years to secure motors, its longevity is good enough. (It does require the 'full fat' Evostick, approved by glue sniffers everywhere.)

 

Had a quick look at my Patriot which is an R2726. That got the clamp sawn down to make space for weight over the coupled wheels. I have inspected the cut surfaces with a 20x loupe, no signs of trouble from mazak rot. Since my models live in an unheated building, and this one has been through at least two really cold winters, there are some good components out there. (The well known affliction of the Hornby Brush 2 was found out, ' all chassis ends fall off right now' basically.)

[toboldlygo]

I encountered the same problem of the worm/gears on a Patriot a few years back, after I had to take it all apart when the motion on one side buckled very badly. The part in question was slightly on the large size (in tolerances) so even any of the lubricant on the mating surfaces was taking was preventing the motor from engaging drive. If memory serves I solve the problem, by degreasing the whole lot and running a file over the mating surfaces to remove any burrs.

[TonyW]

Never been happy with this motor mount / gear cover, because of the ineptly positioned single securing screw. All my Hornby models with this arrangement the motor is glued in with Evostick between the cradle cast in the block and the motor can. That holds the motor with no need for any mechanical clamping, and having used this technique or over thirty years to secure motors, its longevity is good enough. (It does require the 'full fat' Evostick, approved by glue sniffers everywhere.)

 

Had a quick look at my Patriot which is an R2726. That got the clamp sawn down to make space for weight over the coupled wheels. I have inspected the cut surfaces with a 20x loupe, no signs of trouble from mazak rot. Since my models live in an unheated building, and this one has been through at least two really cold winters, there are some good components out there. (The well known affliction of the Hornby Brush 2 was found out, ' all chassis ends fall off right now' basically.)

Thanks,

Yes the attachement of the motor cradle and motor is not the best design.  I may well try Evostick first as its a non permenant mod. It is unfair of me to say the metal has mazak rot, the casting is very thin over the gear wheel and the problem most likely is just plain mechanical failure.

I am well familiar with the Brush type 2 issues, mine was greatfully refurbished free by Hornby even though it was about three years old.