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Andy maybe brass pins or small brass screws at the board joints soldered to the rail is the answer. Its certainly my anchorage of choice for those tricky spots.

 

Cheers

Dave

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How did you glue down the sleepers at the board joins? I used Copydex everywhere on Bacup other than at board joins which have PCB sleepers glued down with Superglue to stop them shifting.

 

Copydex is great as it keeps the flexibility and deadens sound but that flexibility can also cause sideways movement at baseboard joins. The track will always try to straighten itself, especially at the ends, so needs to be properly anchored.

 

Was it just that which caused shunting frustration?

Hi Jason, I used the Copydex and laid the Track all across the joint, and after it was dry I cut the Track. Then as you surmised the Track tried to pull itself strait and so was a pig to keep lined up.

 

I have now laid Cork, and re laid the track with about 4 Copper Clad Sleepers Epoxyed down either side of the board join, and it seems perfect now. I will connect all up later and do some more running.

 

Re the Goods Yard and Shunting, It was a combination of the track joins mentioned above, Magnet positions, Kadee's playing up and swivelling Axels on Bachmann's VGA's, OBA's and VDA etc, (they will be glued solid later) that caused most problems, and also not having laid a Head Shunt didn't help matters either.

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Andy maybe brass pins or small brass screws at the board joints soldered to the rail is the answer. Its certainly my anchorage of choice for those tricky spots.

 

Cheers

Dave

Thanks Peter and Dave, I have used pins before but only on a strait join, this time I wanted a lot of strength on the curve.

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It was a combination of the track joins mentioned above, Magnet positions, Kadee's playing up and swivelling Axels on Bachmann's VGA's, OBA's and VDA etc, (they will be glued solid later) that caused most problems, and also not having laid a Head Shunt didn't help matters either.

Hi Andy,

 

I've glued my Hornby VIX vans solid but still mounted the Kadees on the solebar as I find they work more reliably.

I intend to do the same for my VGA's/OBA's./etc, but how do you find them once you've glued them if you're still using the NEM pocket?

 

Jinty ;-)

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I have used brass screws and soldered the rail down to them. Gordon Gavett advocates the same method in a recent MRJ article. You can adjust the screw height before soldering the rail down.

 

Don

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Hi Andy,

 

I understand your frustrations, I was like that with my single slip on the siding which in the end I ripped the guts out of it and rebuilt it, all is now well and I'm sure your's will be too. Don't get disheartened just keep plugging away and you will get there.........honest!

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SORTED AND DELIGHTED

 

attachicon.gifFull running 001.JPG

 

attachicon.gifFull running 002.JPG

 

 

And the Video.

(that wont show full size for some reason)

 

https://youtu.be/6RxY5EHVXeA

 

Hi Andy

 

Does it feel a lot better now you can run trains round and round?

 

 

Mind you I had to turn the sound off when viewing the video.......as Bugs Bunny would say "Too loud. Man" :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono:

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Andy

 

I bet you're a lot happier now that you can let the trains run all the way round. That long coal train certainly looks impressive.

 

I'm sure you'll find the shunting more entertaining once you've installed the two sidings next to the Goods Shed.

 

I'm still unclear about the problems you had with the foam that you ripped up. Had the diluted Copydex not stuck it as well at that end of the layout as it had at the door end? Any idea why?

 

I only ask because I'm hoping to use a foam/diluted Copydex combination on my baseboards but your latest experience has left me slightly concerned.

 

Also, now you have both foam and cork, have you noticed much difference in the noise levels on each?

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Just read your text and I can see why you are happy. I hope the track stays put and there's no sideways movement over time.

 

Btw, if you want to run 9Fs and diesels together - do it!  :D  :D  :D  :D

 

Jeff

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Hi Andy,

 

I understand your frustrations, I was like that with my single slip on the siding which in the end I ripped the guts out of it and rebuilt it, all is now well and I'm sure your's will be too. Don't get disheartened just keep plugging away and you will get there.........honest!

Thanks Mike, but as you probably saw in the Video today, its running faultlessly.

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Hi Andy

 

Does it feel a lot better now you can run trains round and round?

 

 

Mind you I had to turn the sound off when viewing the video.......as Bugs Bunny would say "Too loud. Man" :nono: :nono: :nono: :nono:

Thanks Clive, they are turned well down from the original sound supplied, but I do know what you mean, when running the two together the Video sounded messy.

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Andy

 

I bet you're a lot happier now that you can let the trains run all the way round. That long coal train certainly looks impressive.

 

I'm sure you'll find the shunting more entertaining once you've installed the two sidings next to the Goods Shed.

 

I'm still unclear about the problems you had with the foam that you ripped up. Had the diluted Copydex not stuck it as well at that end of the layout as it had at the door end? Any idea why?

 

I only ask because I'm hoping to use a foam/diluted Copydex combination on my baseboards but your latest experience has left me slightly concerned.

 

Also, now you have both foam and cork, have you noticed much difference in the noise levels on each?

Ray, re the Copydex, the reason for the movement is because of the curvature of the track across the baseboard joint, The Foam was glued to the board and the Track was glued to the Foam. With the sideways pull on the Foam due to the Curve of the Track the Foam stretched so the Tracks no longer were aligned on the apex of the curve.

 

Where the Track cross the strait board joints there is no problem as there is no sideways pull on the Foam.

 

Not a great deal of sound difference but then its not ballasted yet, so I'm expecting some considerable sound difference's once ballasted.

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Just read your text and I can see why you are happy. I hope the track stays put and there's no sideways movement over time.

 

Btw, if you want to run 9Fs and diesels together - do it!  :D  :D  :D  :D

 

Jeff

Evening Jeff, I don't think it can move now unless the Epoxy comes unstuck. Once Ballasted it will hold it firm and will be fine.

 

Really pleased with the running, looks like I'm having a Running in Party on Saturday Night.

Edited by Andrew P
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In order to stop the problem you either have to fix it down on something more solid than foam as Andy has done. Or you need to prebend the rail. If you are building the track you can simply bend the rail to shape first then soldering it down onto the pcb sleepers it will hold to shape, if you are laying flexi track you can slide the rail out bend it and slide it back in. However i would still prefer to have at least two firm fixings on each rail at the joint to hold it in line.

 

Andy no wonder you are feeling chuffed you have expressed a desire to be able to let your trains stretch their legs for a long time now.  Makes all the hassle and trouble worth while I believe. Good result mate.

 

Don

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Well done that man! It's always a great feeling when you complete the circuit and allow those lovely machines (steam or diesel) to strut their stuff! You are now officially allowed to sit in the middle with a big grin on your face and think, "Yeah! Now we're getting somewhere!" :locomotive: :imsohappy:

 

Regards

 

Bill

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Hi George, Bill and Don, Thanks for all the compliments.

 

I haven't done as much today as I had hoped, I had to take a trip out to the Tutbury Jinny to pick up some curved points for the Storage Yard.

 

Its laid loose so still a bit squiggly and its not been wired yet, that's all for another day as I need a sit down a coffee and a rest before going to Club later.

 

Here's some pics from today. All roads are By Directional and so here is the crossover at the up / door end.

 

post-9335-0-90385800-1426177445_thumb.jpg

 

And the down end, still needs connecting.

 

post-9335-0-87704900-1426177520_thumb.jpg

 

And some overall views.

 

post-9335-0-43742900-1426177542_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-03887700-1426177552_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-17423700-1426177563_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-78133700-1426177573_thumb.jpg

 

I hope to get the Down Yard laid tomorrow.

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Andy, that is a very nice bit of video, almost persuaded me to scrap my steam locos and bring in the diseasels.  But common sense prevailed in the end plus my wife with a frown on her face.

Nice bit of running though, just think how much nicer it would be with a bit of crimson lake and steam locomotives.

The baseboard join looks very neat.  What do you use to cut the track.  I normally use a slitting disc but it never seems to cut through the rails and leave a tidy finish like yours.

Derek

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Andy, that is a very nice bit of video, almost persuaded me to scrap my steam locos and bring in the diseasels.  But common sense prevailed in the end plus my wife with a frown on her face.

Nice bit of running though, just think how much nicer it would be with a bit of crimson lake and steam locomotives.

The baseboard join looks very neat.  What do you use to cut the track.  I normally use a slitting disc but it never seems to cut through the rails and leave a tidy finish like yours.

Derek

 

Not sure what Andy used but I find with a dremel you always get a slanting cut whereas a razor saw can do a vertical cut.

Don

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