Andrew P Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) Hi Andy, I'm afraid to say you bought the wrong magnets. see here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/60560-pwllheli-next-stop/?p=950234 where i pinched the idea from. and here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67862-camel-quay-a-north-cornwall-inspired-layout-in-4mm/?p=1264232 Which is my version. You need thin rectangular magnets to work effectively, something to do with the lines of magnetic flux (so I'm told) being different from round ones. Ray. Edit: forgot to say i did try the round one as well as i had a couple lying around and got nowhere with them. Your right Ray, I will order some of those, I was trying to be clever with nice little ones,, I will use the little ones for removable Coal loads. Cheers Ray. EDIT = ORDERED. Edited January 15, 2015 by Andrew P 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Your right Ray, I will order some of those, I was trying to be clever with nice little ones,, I will use the little ones for removable Coal loads. Cheers Ray. I got mine from eMagnets UK. I think they were 15x5x1mm (EP331) but i'd have to dig out the box and measure one to be sure. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PeterBB Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hahahaha I had the same with Trebudoc, my O Gauge one at an Exhibition. never again for exhibitions. Well I remember the nightmare we had ... aided and abetted by poor local lighting and that is why every time you mention three-link coupling I remind you. Trebudoc itself was a great layout. Three-link coupling problem lack of visibility was also the reason why I painted my tension coupling release base-end white. There again, as others have said, in a home layout anything goes and of course time ... is only limited by the gap between comfort breaks, meal breaks and sleep breaks! Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) I got mine from eMagnets UK. I think they were 15x5x1mm (EP331) but i'd have to dig out the box and measure one to be sure. Ray. Hi Ray, to late, I've gone for the 22 x 11 x 2mm same as in the video link, as I have the 3mm foam they will be fine. Thanks for pointing out my error, but as I say I can still use the small ones under a coal load. Edited January 15, 2015 by Andrew P 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 One other job done today was he cutting of Big Bertha across the baseboard joint, just needs wiring up and the Point Motors fitting now. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Yes Jeff the Kadee is pulled down, lifting the other end of the wagon off the ground. The axels don't see to have an issue and aren't being pulled in. Your wagons must be very light..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 I know you prefer the autocouplings Andy and respect your choice but I must defend three links. I have used them in EM and 0 gauge. I have operated the shunting layout I had at numerous 2 day exhibitions and enjoyed them, Good lighting is essential but to be honest if you cannot see to uncouple people are not getting a good view of the layout. The other thing that helps is to use a hook with a thing end, file the edges of the hook (looks better as well as allowing the links to slide over easier) and open the bottom link a little if necessary. The is also a lot of freedom to uncouple or couple anywhere. It also replicates a big part of railway operations. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Your wagons must be very light..... Your probably right, possibly to light, but for a BLT I would have added some more weight but as I want to run a wagon freight I don't want each one to heavy. I hope I now have the solution thanks to Ray pointing out the error of my ways, ahah. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 I know you prefer the autocouplings Andy and respect your choice but I must defend three links. I have used them in EM and 0 gauge. I have operated the shunting layout I had at numerous 2 day exhibitions and enjoyed them, Good lighting is essential but to be honest if you cannot see to uncouple people are not getting a good view of the layout. The other thing that helps is to use a hook with a thing end, file the edges of the hook (looks better as well as allowing the links to slide over easier) and open the bottom link a little if necessary. The is also a lot of freedom to uncouple or couple anywhere. It also replicates a big part of railway operations. Don Hi Don, I haven't given up on the idea of 3 link for the goods yard, but I want to install the magnets and ensure they work as a back up, I don't want to have to stretch over to try and couple up on the main line 2ft away. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Don, I haven't given up on the idea of 3 link for the goods yard, but I want to install the magnets and ensure they work as a back up, I don't want to have to stretch over to try and couple up on the main line 2ft away. Simple tip for a hook if you have any of the old wire in tube stuff used to operate points you can take a length of the copper tube and a shortpiece of the steel wire squeeze the end of the tube to pinch the wire then bend a hook in the wire. Add a handle if you wish the steel wire is strong enough to lift the links while being thinner than brass wire. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hello Bodge. Remember we tried three links years ago, and found they were crap when reversing ? still the same now...BUFFER LOCK ? George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Andy, I have just spent a few days catching up with your new layout thread. Very nice too. I need to make the effort to check the Layout section more often, and not just look at the content I follow all the time. I do like the idea of building some points the PCB sleeper and rail option looks like the cheapest way to go rather than buying kits. Looking forwards to following your progress with this one I think you are on a winner here, and I get to see some blue diesels running as well though that 9f is a beast. Cheers Peter. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock67B Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Morning Andy et al, For those determined on three link coupling, I saw somewhere an uncoupling hook attached to the end of a super-slim LED pen-light torch - made it good to handle and solved the light problem at the same time! One of the modelling books I had showed a clever way of preventing buffer locking with, from memory, a thin stiff wire between wagons but sadly I can't remember exactly how it was disposed. I will examine it though as the short rake of loco coal wagons for my coaling stage will have to be pushed up the ramp and I do like the visual effect of the three links! As an aside, I find it funny when I look at the efforts of some of the fans of 'Ms Rivette Counter', making a superb job of a model 'just like the real thing' and then spoiling it with a great big non-prototypical blob on each buffer beam! An argument that could, and indeed has, run and run!! Kind regards, Jock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 One other job done today was he cutting of Big Bertha across the baseboard joint, just needs wiring up and the Point Motors fitting now. Big Bertha cut 001.JPG Would love to see this in minute detail as you sort the join. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAL 'O THE WYND Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Just looked in, Andy. (can't type just now, much less model. My sparring partner Arthurs right hits! (groan) Wonderful! Following! Hal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hello Bodge. Remember we tried three links years ago, and found they were crap when reversing ? still the same now...BUFFER LOCK ? George I don't think Andy will have a problem with the large radius points he has been building. Peco small radius might well be an issue. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Simple tip for a hook if you have any of the old wire in tube stuff used to operate points you can take a length of the copper tube and a shortpiece of the steel wire squeeze the end of the tube to pinch the wire then bend a hook in the wire. Add a handle if you wish the steel wire is strong enough to lift the links while being thinner than brass wire. Don Hi Don, I have several hooks that I made years ago, some with torches and some with LED lights, various sizes and types. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) Hello Bodge. Remember we tried three links years ago, and found they were crap when reversing ? still the same now...BUFFER LOCK ? George Hi Mate, there is no Buffer Locking on Bitton as the Point radius is large enough not to have this problem, (I have tried with my 16T Minerals) its just a light and reach issue, it still looks better than the Hornby /Bachmann couplings that are rubbish IMHO. Edited January 16, 2015 by Andrew P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Andy, I have just spent a few days catching up with your new layout thread. Very nice too. I need to make the effort to check the Layout section more often, and not just look at the content I follow all the time. I do like the idea of building some points the PCB sleeper and rail option looks like the cheapest way to go rather than buying kits. Looking forwards to following your progress with this one I think you are on a winner here, and I get to see some blue diesels running as well though that 9f is a beast. Cheers Peter. Thanks Peter, I will post up some Blue Diesel Pics over the weekend for you. Glad your on board. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Morning Andy et al, For those determined on three link coupling, I saw somewhere an uncoupling hook attached to the end of a super-slim LED pen-light torch - made it good to handle and solved the light problem at the same time! One of the modelling books I had showed a clever way of preventing buffer locking with, from memory, a thin stiff wire between wagons but sadly I can't remember exactly how it was disposed. I will examine it though as the short rake of loco coal wagons for my coaling stage will have to be pushed up the ramp and I do like the visual effect of the three links! As an aside, I find it funny when I look at the efforts of some of the fans of 'Ms Rivette Counter', making a superb job of a model 'just like the real thing' and then spoiling it with a great big non-prototypical blob on each buffer beam! An argument that could, and indeed has, run and run!! Kind regards, Jock. Hi Jock, yes as I said to Don in the post above, I have loads of various Hooks for doing the uncoupling a couple with torch lights and a couple with LED's. Re the bar across the buffers, that's a DEFINATE NO NO, I would rather have Kadees than that, and I've tried the 16T Minerals pushed back into the Coal yard with no problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Would love to see this in minute detail as you sort the join. So would I, hahha, I will post some pics over the weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 92220 Posted January 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2015 Big Bertha was then Laid in place an a thin coating of Copydex, (bear in mind, its 3 Points) and then checked from evey angle for alignment. Big Bertha Laid 009.JPG .............. And the Tie Bar Slots can't be seen. Big Bertha Laid 014.JPG Hi Andy, It might be the camera angle and distortion so forgive me for mentioning this and tell me off if necessary. Just trying to save you work in the future. But is the common crossing on the quoted photo of Big Bertha above (009) in alignment? It looks as if it isn't? Also, the point blade on the far side of the second photo I've quoted (014) looks too long and not filed to a point. Or have I got that wrong too?!? I really like what you are doing here, as well as your attitude to it, and I am following avidly. My namesake needs to pay a visit........! Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Andy, It might be the camera angle and distortion so forgive me for mentioning this and tell me off if necessary. Just trying to save you work in the future. But is the common crossing on the quoted photo of Big Bertha above (009) in alignment? It looks as if it isn't? Also, the point blade on the far side of the second photo I've quoted (014) looks too long and not filed to a point. Or have I got that wrong too?!? I really like what you are doing here, as well as your attitude to it, and I am following avidly. My namesake needs to pay a visit........! Iain Hi Iain, thanks for posting and your concerns, I have just rushed outside to look at both the points (sorry for the pun) you've made, firstly the V in pic 9, it looks fine to the eye and the stock flies through in all direction with no problem. Secondly the point blade is to long in reality again but it works well so I will leave it as it is. Thanks again. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp1 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Iain, thanks for posting and your concerns, I have just rushed outside to look at both the points (sorry for the pun) you've made, firstly the V in pic 9, it looks fine to the eye and the stock flies through in all direction with no problem. Secondly the point blade is to long in reality again but it works well so I will leave it as it is. Thanks again. Where's the 'phew that's a relief' button? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAL 'O THE WYND Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi Mate, there is no Buffer Locking on Bitton as the Point radius is large enough not to have this problem, (I have tried with my 16T Minerals) its just a light and reach issue, it still looks better that the Hornby /Bachmann couplings that are rubbish IMHO. No question three-links are better. I've large enough radii too, but shaky old hands when stretching, sometimes. I can flip a wagon across the room dead easily (slight exaggeration) or have half a train dangling. Hal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now