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Type ernest marples into Wikipedia.

 

It is a VERY mild appraisal of the person in question. It writes only what is provable rather than the issues he managed to avoid using the old boys network.

 

One railway club I was a member of when I was a lad (yes it was AFTER the 1960s...) had in their fictitious "what if..." scenario something along the lines of "...if marples had put his efforts into improving the Country's transport infrastructure rather than lining his own pocket. The thieving basket. Then this branch would still have been open and this is how we think it would look now."

I refuse to answer any questions about WHO wrote it. Though there was a low relief part of a churchyard and if you read the print it said "MARPLES HONOUR. Died 1962" (in fact, his honour probably committed suicide in 1945 when he entered politics).

 

Sorry for the mini hijack.

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Thanks Derek, you learn somet new every day :D

 

Just got some great advice and tips off John Hayfield, so when take three begins I'll start with the crossing and work from there, I was a bit worried about re-using the wooden sleepers that rails an chairs have been glued to, but apparently this will be better as there will be bits plastic remaining on them which will help the new chairs bond.

 

I was feeling a bit apprehensive about starting again bit I'm feeling quite happy now :)

 

Cheers, Paul

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I can understand that if there's plastic melted into the grain, but I'd be careful to make sure there is no bits on the top as it might cause a chair not to sit straight.

 

It is Scalefour tomorrow, so I am going to see if I can find anyone to help with where I'm going wrong of a few bits. I am really disappointed that my separate wing rail idea won't work (well, it WILL if I don't use cosmetic chairs...)

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I can understand that if there's plastic melted into the grain, but I'd be careful to make sure there is no bits on the top as it might cause a chair not to sit straight.

 

It is Scalefour tomorrow, so I am going to see if I can find anyone to help with where I'm going wrong of a few bits. I am really disappointed that my separate wing rail idea won't work (well, it WILL if I don't use cosmetic chairs...)

Sorry to here about the wing rail, what's the problem with them?? I'm tempted to see if I can salvage the pre made vee's just to save time etc?? John is at Scalefour tomorrow afternoon, I'm sure if you message him he'd meet you an help you out mate.

 

I really want to try my own vee's but I could try an fix the ones I've got? (Sorry I'm waffling)

 

Cheers, Paul

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You're not waffling at all Paul. It's a discussion forum as you keep reminding me when I'm talking 5h1t.

 

I can't see any reason why you can't re-use the vees. Just check them to make sure they're still straight. If you've used a sharp blade to get them up you shouldn't have bent them- but check vertically as well as horizontally.

 

What went wrong with the wings... well I put the vee in. Then the wing rails using a functional chair with one side cut off so that it would get close enough to the vee rail. That held the rails at the right angle. However, the ABC and XY chairs are special ones, which CL do, but only as cosmetic. If I use them then there's nothing to hold the wing rail in place. I am wondering about a check rail chair with the 2 edges cut off, leaving just the spacer. A bit of superglue and then the cosmetics over the outer edges. But I just don't know whether that will work in the longer term and as the sun is due to go super nova in 6 billion years, I haven't the time to try.

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Derek stop putting yourself down mate I've seen your points and they look far better than mine!! I know P4 is far more stricked etc regarding measurements, you could turn to the dark side an go EM ;)

 

Cheers, Paul

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I can understand that if there's plastic melted into the grain, but I'd be careful to make sure there is no bits on the top as it might cause a chair not to sit straight.

 

It is Scalefour tomorrow, so I am going to see if I can find anyone to help with where I'm going wrong of a few bits. I am really disappointed that my separate wing rail idea won't work (well, it WILL if I don't use cosmetic chairs...)

 

From the Scaleforum Guide, details of one of our demonstrations.  Howard will be bolted to his chair (although I don't know if we are using two, three or four bolts) throughout the weekend to help visitors:

 

"Basic track construction

The advent of kits for turnout construction and making of plain track have made the business of track building much easier and quicker but for those who need a special turnout  formation or something out of the ordinary, track made using rail and sleepers is needed. Expert track builder Howard Bolton will be showing how crossing vees and switch rails can be made and will help you to make your own examples. Stay long enough and you will be able to take home a complete common crossing."

 

For anyone that has not seen his work, Howard must be amongst the top two or three 4mm trackbuilders in the country...

 

The full show guide is a free download at http://www.scalefour.org/downloads/2015/scaleforum2015guide.pdf

 

HTH

Paul Willis

Scalefour Society Deputy Chairman

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Hello Mr Dep. Chairman,

 

I shall be at Aylesbury today (yes- in about 9 hours). and seek out Howard, for he may hold the key to retaining my sanity. That good chap Terry Bendell helped me at Wells when I REALLY had no idea what I was doing.

 

Thanks in part to Paul's help, I think I have worked out a way to avoid a soldering iron, use full cosmetic chairs and have 100% inclined rail where they are supposed to be (ie everywhere except adj. timber A and B (or C as well for 1:7 upwards). I was just experimenting on different ways to overcome the problems I had with conventional building. I'm sure others have used the same method before, but it's new to me.

 

Paul ELJ,

You could be in Aylesbury in reasonable time if you came down by rattler. I can pick you up from a WCML station (or change at Brum for the Cotswold lines). Maybe between Mr Dep. Ch. and I we can convert you to P4!

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Andy,

It's a shame Mr York took away the "dislike/hold in utter contempt" button. Having said that, I don't think anyone can dis-respect 00 if they've seen that Eastwood ECML layout or Waverley West.

 

Paul,

I'm not stressed. Not at bl00dy all. And I'll slap anyone really hard who says otherwise. Got it? The whole lot of this blasted stuff has not made me stressed one s0dd1ng bit.

 

On a serious point, it is no more stressful than EM. I was told repeatedly at EM Nth that "EM gives the same results as P4 but for a fraction of the hard work." I fail to see how that can be true and is more of a myth because "EM works to the nearest .1mm whereas P4 works to the nearest .01mm". But that is a nonsense as humans just aren't capable of working by hand to .01's of a MM without very sophisticated equipment- even a Em/P4 society jig won't give you that accuracy. So you can surely summarise it thus "EM 18.2 +/- 0.1mm and P4 18.8 +/- 0.1mm" the only difference therefore being EM check gaps are 1.00mm and P4 0.7mm (0.68 supposedly- but even CL mass produced ones when you insert the rail cannot guarantee to 100ths of a mm)

 

So I don't subscribe to this idea that P4 is harder/ superior to EM. However, in P4 there is a strong emphasis on looking at the prototype in greater detail that perhaps other societies do not share. But I don't want to spark off a P4 Vs EM Vs 00 war on your thread.

 

That said, I can't get it right in any gauge or any scale, so what do I know!

Edited by Derekstuart
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Had a couple of hours free this morning so I lifted the track on the crossing and had a go at making a vee, the vee turned out fine but trying to solder the wind rails on was rather frustrating, so after last nights conversation with John I decided to just realign the original preassrmbled vee's. So the first one has been fitted using exactoscale chairs and I have to say in my opinion they are far better the the C&L ones, in looks as well as in fitting as they don't seem to melt when gluing down.

 

4257B570-648A-4F86-888C-70B46FB29D3B_zps

 

I would of got more done but I wanted to let it set properly and I was under orders to tidy my modelling room :(

 

Cheers, Paul

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Haha ,both lol 2mm is more correct and you can get some really good stuff for it but you've got the RTR of n gauge ,saying that handbuilt N gauge track looks decent especially code 40 lol

 

Brian

Edited by bri.s
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Ha I'd love to go 0 with all that detail but unless I have a lottery win I've no chance lol ,although I do have a decent size loft 20 by 10 should be enough for a layout I think lol I'll probably only make it to 00 lol

 

Brian

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I went to Scaleforum today. Very impressed with it. Many demonstrations and people with advice- including some relatively new modellers to P4. I learned a lot from it.

 

I know it is P4 not EM, but you should really try to get to one Paul- the advice is worth it.

 

By the way, if you look in the index of "layouts and workbench" you will see a new topic...

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