Edge Lane Junction EM gauge

[PjKing1]

Rest easy Paul, it don't apply to diesels, except for those with coupling rods.

Thank god for that hang an I've got 3 08's with more planned for the future another pint and a brandy please...

 

I've been looking at the diamond crossing and I've now got a crossing flange way gauge, mine seem a bit tight so I recon I'll have to re-do bits of it, rather get it right now than be frustrated I front of hundreds at a show haha only joking but it's nice to dream.

 

Seriously though I don't want to regret anything whilst building this so making sure everything is right as it can be.

 

Cheers, Paul

[Derekstuart]

To save re-inventing the wheel, if you type GW Models into the forum search, all will be revealed.

 

Mike.

I did, and all I found was people talking about it. If I go to the CERN site and type in "Higs Bosun" there's plenty of talk about it, but still I don't know what it is.

 

But I've found out from another forum anyway. Thanks.

[Mr.S.corn78]

As you're a member of the EMGS, do you know whether they have started stocking vee/blade filing jigs yet?

Hi,

 

Yes they have the Vee jigs in stock but no blade filing ones.

Cheers

Simon

 

Ps I've also heard that they are going to be stocking more diesel wheel sets too, but don't tell everyone!

Edited August 9, 2015 by Mr.S.corn78

[PjKing1]

Hi,

Yes they have the Vee jigs in stock but no blade filing ones.

Cheers

Simon

Ps I've also heard that they are going to be stocking more diesel wheel sets too, but don't tell everyone!

Yay diesel wheel sets I've just started to fit the new wheels to the 47 seem to fit ok but I'm going to have to alter all the pick ups as its only the rim and not all the back of the wheel like the Bachmann ones. Thankfully I'm off out to watch the match now so I can forget about how the hell I'm going to do all that!!

 

Cheers, Paul

[Enterprisingwestern]

Yay diesel wheel sets I've just started to fit the new wheels to the 47 seem to fit ok but I'm going to have to alter all the pick ups as its only the rim and not all the back of the wheel like the Bachmann ones. Thankfully I'm off out to watch the match now so I can forget about how the hell I'm going to do all that!!

 

Cheers, Paul

 

These should help Paul.

 

http://www.scalefour.org/members/stores/shops.php

 

 

 

Mike

[PjKing1]

Thanks Mike, I've spent the morning getting the crossing sorted an that's working fine I bit of cutting rails an it just means cosmetic fishplates instead of the normal ones. I've started re-wheeling one of the 47's to, pretty easy so far but I'll have to make new pickups as the gibson wheels only pick up on the very outside oh the joys

 

Cheers, Paul

[PjKing1]

A bit of progress today, the junction is nearly complete, a couple of check rails, some chairs an then the tie bars (not looking forward to that!) then I can flip it over and solder the droppers etc, then I can transfer it into it's ply home an wire up for testing.

 

I've also added the EM wheel set to the 47 an it works!! I'm halfway though fitting the 40 to.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Paul

[Phil Bullock]

Looking awesome Paul

 

Whats the total length of that pointwork please?

 

Phil

[Jintyman]

 

That looks really nice Paul, nice and flowing.

 

Jinty

[PjKing1]

Thanks guys

 

Phil the overall length is about 28" but that's not including the catchpoints so it's pretty big!!

 

I managed to get a lot done today, I've re-wheeled both the 40 & 47 an both work fine, an apart from two check rails an the tie bars the junctions ready to be moved. I've used three copper clad sleepers soldered into position to strengthen the whole junction, although not ideal or pleasing to the eye, it saves the whole thing falling apart and ballast and weathering should hide them, I can always remove them once it's in position on the main board.

 

The copper clad.

 

 

The 40 & 47 to give you a rough idea of the size of the junction.

 

 

 

An a few pics to show the whole junction with the 40 for comparison, along with a 12" ruler an the tape measure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Paul

[PjKing1]

A couple of shots of the re-wheeled 47&40

 

 

 

 

And the latest addition to the fleet, not bad for an n gauge swapsie

 

 

Cheers, Paul

[Derekstuart]

Looking good.

 

How did you get on with the wheel swaps? Were the gears easy/hard to transplant?

[PjKing1]

Thanks Derek they weren't as bad as I thought an once you do the first it's pretty easy, I did a 'how to' (or maybe 'How Not To'but its how I did it anyway) for someone on another forum so here it is!!

 

How to fit (or not to fit) EM wheels!!

 

First thing I did was to remove the bogie sides.

 

 

I then removed the original wheel set.

 

 

Then using a pair of pliers I removed the wheels off the axel, so I could remove the gearing etc.

 

 

The gearing sometimes needs a tap!!

 

 

 

 

It's then time to fit these to the new EM gauge axel.

 

The new bits.

 

 

 

Then add the wheels and check the back to back on the gauge.

 

 

The new wheels!!

 

 

Next thing to do is add new pick ups as the centre of the Alan Gibson wheels are plastic so only the outer edge of the tyre will pick up current. If using Ultrascale the original pick ups can be used I think.

 

I've used brass handrail wire.

 

 

 

 

Once these are soldered into position on all sides the new wheel sets can be fitted and the pickups trimmed accordingly.

 

 

Trimmed.

 

 

The new wheelset

 

 

I then tested the 47 an to by surprise it worked!!

 

Once I was happy that it was working ok, I gave the wheels two coats of 'Rusty Rails' and whilst the second coat was still wet I dusted them with weathering powder. I've also painted the brass bits on the bogies with 'Roof Dirt' just to help it all blend in.

 

 

 

 

 

The bogie frames needed a bit of trimming to fit the wider wheels but nothing to major.

 

Cheers, Paul

[P.C.M]

Hi Paul,

Trackwork is looking good, nice to see the new wheels are too not to hard to fit. You will be running something in no time.

 

Cheers Peter.

[PjKing1]

Thanks Peter I hope so!

 

I've moved the track onto some ply but I've found some of the sleepers are curling up any ideas what is the best way to attach the track/sleepers to the ply before ballasting etc??

 

Cheers, Paul

[P.C.M]

Thanks Peter I hope so!

 

I've moved the track onto some ply but I've found some of the sleepers are curling up any ideas what is the best way to attach the track/sleepers to the ply before ballasting etc??

 

Cheers, Paul

Umm that can't be good,

Until recently I would have said good old PVA but I have read that Copydex glue is the go, even for gluing down ballast as it's better for sound deadening. Maybe a few track pins to hold it down until it's set.

 

Cheers Peter.

[Guest bri.s]

PVA glue with a weight on it ,have you cut all the holes for droppers and motor arms?

[PjKing1]

Thanks Fellas, I read that the thin c&l sleepers can turn up, but want to try and fix the track to the board before ballasting.

 

I'm thinking of securing each end of the sleepers with double sided tape that does seem to stick em down. I haven't drilled any holes yet either for droppers etc, it's just plonked at the moment.

 

I am thinking about the diamond crossing though there's a few things niggling me at the mo,but since I've removed the template I can see that I can easily rebuild some of it 'more tidy' so for the next few days I'm going to get the tie bars fitted an then I'll decide if um going to rebuild the diamond, I'll just need to order some chairs an sleepers if I do

 

Thanks again, Paul

[Derekstuart]

Thanks for the wheel guide, Paul.

 

Have you bought any other wheel sets from AG yet?

I have a 47 set and was planning to 'borrow' 4 axles to do a 25 first. In reality, the 25 had different wheel centres (more holes) compared to the 47. The wheels supplied for the 40 and 47 are identical, with 4 holes and I am wondering if AG supplies that same wheel set for the 25- if so, I can use them and replace them easily later. If AG uses different wheel centres for different classes then clearly I can't.

 

I know Ultrascale do have different centres to match the prototype, which is why they are more expensive and you have to wait. AG's seem pretty good to me.

 

(sorry for all the incessant questions. One day maybe I'll be able to answer a question for you for a change... but don't hold your breath)

[Derekstuart]

Can I suggest seeking out a chap by the name of John Hayfield? He has a thread on here where he chronicles his turnout construction and he has been very good with advice to me and countless other people.

 

I think he's made turnouts using pretty much every option. I am sure it was discussed how to get around this problem.

 

I think if you have just slid the rail into the chairs then you can use a good strong glue to hold the sleepers down (evostick?) but if you've glued the rails to the chairs then a nice flexible glue such as PVA or Copydex to allow a little movement. It's to do with expansion of rails- the geometry being far more strict than the rtr stuff and the chairs not being as strong.

 

EDIT: I've tried adding a link to his thread but it isn't letting me.

 

 

Thanks Peter I hope so!

I've moved the track onto some ply but I've found some of the sleepers are curling up any ideas what is the best way to attach the track/sleepers to the ply before ballasting etc??

Cheers, Paul

[PjKing1]

Thanks Derek I'll take a look, it's only the chairs that are glued to the sleepers so there's flexibility in the rails

 

As for AG wheel sets I've only got the 40 & 47 so haven't a clue about other classes, best thing to do would be to google image AG class 25 an see what comes up, seems to work on most things I'm hunting for

 

Thanks again Derek an ask away buddy it makes me look intelligent

 

Cheers, Paul

[Derekstuart]

Alas Paul, our friend google is unable to help in this instance. I might just go with the 40 or 45 as that's supposed to be fairly simple without having to hack bits of 47 bogie away... (though I could instead do a Lima conversion- just to wind up the p4 puritanical fanatics, of which there are several)

 

It may well make you look clever, which I am confident that you are already; but it also makes me look thick (which most people are confident of already)

[PjKing1]

Haha duno about that Derek but what I do know is that your far braver an cleverer than me, as it'll be a while before I tackle re-wheeling a Lima!! The Hornby an Bachmann 08's are making me start sweating

 

Cheers, paul

[Derekstuart]

Paul, if that were true then I'd have a thread of 49 pages long and you'd have a collection of part done projects on your board. I have spent the past week trying to work out if a tandem turnout is a B6/B8 or a A6/B8 or a B6/C9 combination- which is a turnout that I would never be able to build at the moment. YOU on the other hand have built 2 turnouts and a diamond crossing, as well as started re-wheeling. That's pretty good in my book. (though I WILL catch you up)

 

The thing with Lima is that they are far more robust than Bachmann/Hornby modern versions. You can dismantle a Lima in a couple of minutes and if it goes wrong, well they're cheap and spares are plentiful on Ebay.

 

There are several guides for the 08's. There are a couple at least on the scalefour forum. One even includes home made suspension. I will wait until the ELJ guide to 08's comes out

 

 

EDIT: P4'ing a Lima 60 was easy enough. (and as it's a standard 2 or 3 axle bogie, the same will apply for them all). Buy brass tube- 2.5mm outside dia., 2.00 inside dia. Cut to 17.X (whether EM or P4), glue the tube into the plastic bogie, making sure it is equidistant. Slip one wheel onto the axle, slide through tube, add second wheel and gear if required, and then check b2b. Took me about 5 minutes. I'm pretty sure that it will start to eat into the back of the plastic wheel centre, so I will file back the end of the brass tube a little and then insert washers to protect the wheel centres.

Edited August 15, 2015 by Derekstuart

[PjKing1]

Thanks Derek as for the point combination all I I I is a b6 is smaller than a b8,I went for b8's as that's the biggest I could build into a crossing, so I was told, so I've got two!! Right or wrong I couldn't tell you but then again if you look at my sleepers you'd think "What are you doing"!!!! But looking at original pictures you'd wonder how trains ran on them. Yep I want it's real as I can but without counting rivets one can get to stressed in this hobby an that ruins the enjoyment. I've plenty of part projects which need finishing, as for the 08's I've seen a couple how to's so I must do one soon

 

Thanks for the compliments Derek an don't pull yourself down, if I was you I'd start a thread on your work because what might seem like something which isn't what you think is ok others will think is great an a huge help to them. I'll say one thing, when I stared my first thread or even my first pic posted I thought it would be laughed at because of the great modelling already on here. Yep I was wrong but I never ever thought I'd have 49 pages (mostly of my waffling) or been asked for advice, an that is the biggest ever compliment so thanks for that.

 

Cheers, Paul