drduncan Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I've recently obtained a long coveted w/m kit, partly built. The problem is reducing it to its component parts... I've boiled it, which sorted the low melt solder bits, but the rest has stayed firmly togther. It looks like superglue or expoy gas been used too. Any suggestions how to dissolve or otherwise part if it has been assembled with superglue or expoy? Regards Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thane of Fife Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I find that soaking overnight in Nitromors weakens the epoxy and it falls to bit. It may take a while longer as todays Nitromors doesn't seem as powerful as it once was. Thane of fife Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeandnel Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I find that soaking overnight in Nitromors weakens the epoxy and it falls to bit. It may take a while longer as todays Nitromors doesn't seem as powerful as it once was. Thane of fife I've recently obtained a long coveted w/m kit, partly built. The problem is reducing it to its component parts... I've boiled it, which sorted the low melt solder bits, but the rest has stayed firmly togther. It looks like superglue or expoy gas been used too. Any suggestions how to dissolve or otherwise part if it has been assembled with superglue or expoy? Regards Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeandnel Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Hello Duncan The new and recommended way to seperate glued white metal kits is a mix of Domestos and water in equal parts. Leave the item in for 24-48 hours and it should fall apart in your hands. I have just taken a Wills T9 apart with it and now i have a collection of bits. Michael dJS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I've recently obtained a long coveted w/m kit, partly built. The problem is reducing it to its component parts... I've boiled it, which sorted the low melt solder bits, but the rest has stayed firmly togther. It looks like superglue or expoy gas been used too. Any suggestions how to dissolve or otherwise part if it has been assembled with superglue or expoy? Regards Duncan What did you get? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 What did you get? Another Dean Single 3031 class 4-4-2. I plan to do one in full pre1906 livery and one in the garter crest livery.... D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Duncan I think it depends on which type of epoxy has been used. The quick set is normally fine with either boiling or Nitromores, but I think the long curing stuff is much harder to soften Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I haven't used the long curing stuff *such as the original 24-hour Araldite) for a long time but I seem to recall that soaking that in petrol used to work. No guarantees now but possibly worth a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norwenglish Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 If it's superglue, then acetone works very well. Have used to to strip paint/ superglue off of whitemetal wargaming miniatures many times. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 Hello Duncan The new and recommended way to seperate glued white metal kits is a mix of Domestos and water in equal parts. Leave the item in for 24-48 hours and it should fall apart in your hands. I have just taken a Wills T9 apart with it and now i have a collection of bits. Michael dJS It didn't work, but it strip off the paint! D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Post it to yourself unwrapped in a Jiffy bag, the Royal Mails sorting machine does the job very well. How do I know !! Some Bozo sent me a couple of kits I won off an Ebay lot like that. I must say the MTK kit came apart without any other damage, far better than a Ratio coach Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Thanks lads for thinking it funny, I must say in the end it did cheer me up but I had to endure about 5 separate emails from some woman which had to be deciphered from both bad grammar, text abbreviations, one long sentence without punctuations, begging for forgiveness and positive feedback. Well she won and to get rid of her I made a comment about poor packing but gave her 4 stars As I said the Ratio coaches under-frame is in many small bits But other than being completely un-assembled except for the buffers, not a scratch on the paintwork (well only a few). Must have been assembled with superglue or spit. I tell you what, I really pity that woman's husband/partner , makes me value the misses all the more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Must have been assembled with superglue or spit. Is there a difference? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Well she won and to get rid of her I made a comment about poor packing but gave her 4 stars What was wrong with the packaging all of the parts arrived didn't they? That is her in trouble with eBay anything less than 5 star is seen as a total and utter failure.... which makes a mockery of the whole process. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Back yo the OP's request. Brake fluid works for me on Araldite and other glues. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Thanks Paul, I shall give it a trybext week. drduncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Spoons Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 As per Pauls reply, make sure you get the old-fashioned variety rather than the new-fangled silicone DOT5, look for DOT3 or DOT4, or DOT5.1 which are Glycol Ether/Borate Ester based! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 As per Pauls reply, make sure you get the old-fashioned variety rather than the new-fangled silicone DOT5, look for DOT3 or DOT4, or DOT5.1 which are Glycol Ether/Borate Ester based! Thanks! Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 I've read recently that simple vinegar will attack the quick-cure epoxies. Much cheaper that Nitromors and brake fluid and far less dangerous. Edited to add that I've only read this in the last couple of days and haven't yet had the chance to find out if it works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 I've read recently that simple vinegar will attack the quick-cure epoxies. Much cheaper that Nitromors and brake fluid and far less dangerous. Edited to add that I've only read this in the last couple of days and haven't yet had the chance to find out if it works Yes it certainly does! I made the mistake of bathing my Brassmasters 0F in vinegar to clean the brass and the smokebox door fell off! I had secured it with 5 minute epoxy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 I shall try the vinegar option first! D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Vinegar works a treat! drduncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peppercorn Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 A soak in caustic soda works a treat with epoxy resin. Not knowing this I soaked an old cast kit that I'd put together in the late sixties hoping to strip off the paint. When I returned the next day all the paint was nicely stripped, and the loco was back to a kit. It is necessary when using caustic soda to follow the manufacturer's instructions the chief of which is to add the powder or crystals to water, not water to crystals, and to wear PPE. After use it can be used to clean your drains. Cliff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Cliff Before clearing the drains (I throw away the grunge in the bottom separately) it can be re-used several times. For parts which remain stuck together immersion in boiling water for a bit can also degrade the glue and melt low melt solder. I find black hard to remove, I have a can of Cellulose thinners which is also great at dissolving stubborn paint. Not tried oven foam cleaner in a bag, I must try some one day Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 I used spray on oven cleaner and it took off the paint and dissolved or at least softened most of the epoxy resin used to glue a whitemetal loco together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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