SOS Junction. If anything happens would someone wake me up please..

[Mallard60022]

OK now I'm worried about the Mighty Duck - he just posted a link to a  movie about a steam train being overtaken by 8 Ladas and a bus.

 

Is this a precursor to SOS Junction moving to Wroclaw and chasing to HO scale?

 

Has he been secretly listing over Fleischman and Roco products?

 

Should we be told?

I must point out that the train had stopped at a train stop* when being overtaken. * Yup, like a bus stop but for the train; it was 1990 in Poland and that's how it was on some Branch Lines.

P 

Edited March 23, 2016 by Mallard60022

[Mallard60022]

Now then, something unusual happened this afternoon and it involved trickery. Snigger ye may but I actually fitted a Pecoboo PE10E Point Motor + attached froggy switch, under a board and it worked a modified Pecoboo point when I eventually joined up all the wires; blimey it's loud but reassuring that action has happened. It wont be operated very often; I hope to use the Cobalts where I can for 'quiet and relaxed' changes.

For me this is like another miracle and there was no hissing followed by blue smoke or burning smells (well not from the point motor anyway). I shall now have a think about how to rig this to the other, almost adjacent, identical Point Motor rig (this is the trailing crossover on the Incline just west of the Station), that when switched, both points change and the polarity is sorted as well. I know there are a thousand articles showing me how but you lot know what I'm like.

I now need to iron some cork sheet. have just ironed some cork sheet (rolled) and it is now beautifully flat and ready to cut for track base.

Ar$e.

Edited March 23, 2016 by Mallard60022

[bigwordsmith]

Phil it's not too difficult ( emphasis on too)

 

I spend time working out which way I want the blades to sit on the first point - wire that up , then take a wire form them set in one direction to the tag on the other point that corresponds with where you want that one to be.

 

Same for the other direction, wire up the common return and Robert becomes your father's Brother!

[Mallard60022]

Phil it's not too difficult ( emphasis on too)

 

I spend time working out which way I want the blades to sit on the first point - wire that up , then take a wire form them set in one direction to the tag on the other point that corresponds with where you want that one to be.

 

Same for the other direction, wire up the common return and Robert becomes your father's Brother!

Yea. I'm lucky in that this part of the incline board is like a removable 'pod' and I have laid the points in their position on this section, having prepped the required holes, separate from the layout. So, in theory I can experiment with this on the 'workbench' when both motors are fitted and proved to work separately! I could probably do this for quite a lot of the station area as well if I'm crafty as the boards are only screwed to the supports .......ummmmmm!

Thanks Smiffy.

P 

Edited March 23, 2016 by Mallard60022

[Stubby47]

Phil,

Have you heard ?

 

Apparently, Pecoboo now make Bullhead rail - you could get some for SOSJ.

 

P.Un-Jab

[gwrrob]

Phil,

Have you heard ?

Apparently, Pecoboo now make Bullhead rail - you could get some for SOSJ.

P.Un-Jab

Why don't you start a relevant thread then Stu....

[Stubby47]

What, on a track system that uses twice as many rails as needed - pah! It'll never catch on.

[Mallard60022]

Things are going too well at the moment so something's gotta give soon no doubt.

This evening I 'discovered' how to wire up a Fulgurex beast. This was achieved by realising that a Pecoboo diagram re frog switching, with their posh and very expensive twin switch, showed the same sort of microswitch that is on the Fulgurex. I wired a Fulgy up, including a DPDT switch wot I had wired myself and it bl**dy well worked (well I know not if the polarity change works; that will be tested a bit later. However I also discovered that I'm going to need more mini DPDT switches for these Fulgys as I'd only ordered them for the Cobalts.....pah! I might just invest in the ready wired DCC Supplies switches for the Cobalts and use the nice mini ones for the Fulgies...........................

Then I wired up the Flash Gordon Box with its six sets of wires ready for controlling the Pecoboo P11s. I also prepped the P11s for the addition of 'extra wire' as they had obviously been 'cropped' at some time in the past. I must remember to mark which points need a Microswitch with the P11s. I must also remember to see if I can set up a cross over double point change using one switch on this box as well. 

Tomorrow I shall take some pics of the recently but only partially completed curve on the Incline wot I have done with the assistance of the N.S. mirror method and some other mundane things such as the embankment cross-over pod points.

This, of course, is all procrastination with the main BUS run positions being something I really need to decide on ASAP and all those damn droppers for track lengths need soldering as my paint will be here tomorrow I'm sure and I'll be tempted to go spraying the track and points. Then there's the two hex Juicers to sort out; blimey, hours of fun and entertainment

Before I say good night, what is good for cutting the drive pin on the Peco Point once it is all set and in position? I seem to remember they are hard steel.

Many thanks

Ducky. 

Edited March 23, 2016 by Mallard60022

[St Enodoc]

Before I say good night, what is good for cutting the drive pin on the Peco Point once it is all set and in position? I seem to remember they are hard steel.

Either a pair of side cutters that is intended for hard steel wire or a cutting disc in a mini drill.

[LNER4479]

...or a cutting disc in a mini drill.

If using this method, go steady (do a bit at a time) as the heat builds up and can melt the plastic.

 

Don't ask me how I know this....

[Mallard60022]

A few years back I tried doing some Seep ones; I remember they were a complete **** to cut. If I was clever I would cut the things pre fitting but I don't trust myself to get them the right length doing it that way. Diamond disk methinks and carefully does it.....and then I'll borrow some mighty cutters from the bloke over the road!

Thanks chaps.

Phil

[cromptonnut]

Either a pair of side cutters that is intended for hard steel wire or a cutting disc in a mini drill.

 

Don't try using some Xuron track cutters to cut point motor rods.

 

Don't ask me how I found this out.

[Mallard60022]

Don't try using some Xuron track cutters to cut point motor rods.

 

Don't ask me how I found this out.

Nope, however the cutting disc was excellent and I wore safety goggums. Took about two minutes at most. No pictures as I do not have a glamourous assistant at the moment.

OK so here are some  ".....wish I had seen those pics a couple of weeks ago....." efforts in case they may be of any use to any other 'beginners'.

Flash Gordon's innards (this is Flash Gordon)

before

 

after

 

Second hand Fulgy with wires and temporary switch.

 

 

Now the pod points area

 

and lo......

I pinched the Pod from a nearby yacht keel.

 

The Curvy bits: right track laid by engineer, left track laid by a Duck

looking 'west'

 

looking 'east' (thus the reverse of the above orientation)

 

Not finished I hear you cry. Well of course it's not as I am awaiting the prefabricated trailing crossing and the return of the CCE.

This area might get to look like this eventually

 

Now the dreaded mirror; this does not show how unforgiving it is, but I have to say, if you want good curves and straight straights then use this method. It takes no prisoners at all but I find the fine adjustment one can achieve using this is excellent. (Thank you Mr. Soloman).

 

I will be back up there this evening as SWMBO is out on the razzle.

Ar$e

Edited March 24, 2016 by Mallard60022

[Clearwater]

Nice post for the big 10k! Congrats

David

[Mallard60022]

Nice post for the big 10k! Congrats

David

Oh blimey, do I go on that much...................oh dear.

Phil

[Siberian Snooper]

Your Duckness

 

Some fine track laying there, just needs a spam can Castle with 10 on behind too make a good picture.

[Mallard60022]

Your Duckness

 

Some fine track laying there, just needs a spam can Castle with 10 on behind too make a good picture.

Give me a few days years and then we play the flood diversions of the early 60s.

Phil

[Mallard60022]

Realised in the middle of the night (again....must be the weather) that I think I can do a 'common return' for these 6 (that's the green wire)

I shall do that (if it is OK) 'this side' of the terminal blocks (4 of those yet to be fitted).

Phil

Edited March 25, 2016 by Mallard60022

[Mallard60022]

Well the Common Return idea was bo11ocks. It is much easier just to wire each P11 to its own switch (not very far in this case as all the P11s are within about 3 or 4 feet of the Flash Unit) and then if one konks out it should not disrupt the others.

Tested the Flash Unit this evening and it works as do the P11s (not in situ yet). That's 7/8 motors sorted and I shall fit them and the micro switches this coming week.

 

If using this method, go steady (do a bit at a time) as the heat builds up and can melt the plastic.

 

Don't ask me how I know this....

Yes, I understand what you mean now.................................the first motor pin cut a treat. This second one was an ar$e (but didn't melt the tie bar totally............. ) 

I also spent a stupid amount of time faffing with testing the east Incline trailing crossover shown a little earlier (3238). The second point motor didn't want to work well and took ages to fiddle into place. I then got the wiring wrong for the test switches. However, after I had actually got that right and both motors worked, I wired the two motors to one switch and lo, one switch works both points in the correct orientation.

I have to confess to purchasing a DCC Concepts AD-S8fx Solenoid Accessory Decoder at an unbeatable price. I shall try using this for Peco Point Motors in the Station area and probably introduce further motors as it can do 16 points, has built in CDU and frog switching (also LED switching but I won't be using that first off) and I just need switches if I use DC point motor control and a 15V DC rated supply (from a spare PC power supply?). As it is a Decoder as well I might use DCC power for it. I've yet to understand if I can then still use switches for the points or if I have to use Macro from the Handset.

Phil 

[cromptonnut]

15V DC rated supply (from a spare PC power supply?).

 

Look at laptop power supplies, these are often in the 15-16v DC range and capable of supplying several amps.

 

Something like this, for example.  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15V-16V-18V-19V-4-5A-20V-24V-4A-AC-DC-Adaptor-Power-Supply-3-5mm-x-1-35mm-/400915048133?hash=item5d586626c5:g:Ej8AAOSwpDdVSnn2

[Mallard60022]

Look at laptop power supplies, these are often in the 15-16v DC range and capable of supplying several amps.

 

Something like this, for example.  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-15V-16V-18V-19V-4-5A-20V-24V-4A-AC-DC-Adaptor-Power-Supply-3-5mm-x-1-35mm-/400915048133?hash=item5d586626c5:g:Ej8AAOSwpDdVSnn2

If I don't have one that's excellent Nut. Thanks matey. These things get thrown away at our 'dump' Unbelievable.

[St Enodoc]

Well the Common Return idea was bo11ocks. It is much easier just to wire each P11 to its own switch (not very far in this case as all the P11s are within about 3 or 4 feet of the Flash Unit) and then if one konks out it should not disrupt the others.

Tested the Flash Unit this evening and it works as do the P11s (not in situ yet). That's 7/8 motors sorted and I shall fit them and the micro switches this coming week.

 

Yes, I understand what you mean now.................................the first motor pin cut a treat. This second one was an ar$e (but didn't melt the tie bar totally............. ) 

I also spent a stupid amount of time faffing with testing the east Incline trailing crossover shown a little earlier (3238). The second point motor didn't want to work well and took ages to fiddle into place. I then got the wiring wrong for the test switches. However, after I had actually got that right and both motors worked, I wired the two motors to one switch and lo, one switch works both points in the correct orientation.

I have to confess to purchasing a DCC Concepts AD-S8fx Solenoid Accessory Decoder at an unbeatable price. I shall try using this for Peco Point Motors in the Station area and probably introduce further motors as it can do 16 points, has built in CDU and frog switching (also LED switching but I won't be using that first off) and I just need switches if I use DC point motor control and a 15V DC rated supply (from a spare PC power supply?). As it is a Decoder as well I might use DCC power for it. I've yet to understand if I can then still use switches for the points or if I have to use Macro from the Handset.

Phil 

Phil, the ADS-8fx needs a momentary input not a continuous one to change the points. You can use ordinary push buttons if you don't want to work the points by DCC. I'm going to use DCC for mine so that I can do the storage loop route setting with NCE Mini Panels and macros. Note that although it can change 16 points it only has 8 outputs - each output can power 2 points. So you can use one output to work both ends of a crossover but the two points on an output can't operate independently.

[cromptonnut]

If I don't have one that's excellent Nut. Thanks matey. These things get thrown away at our 'dump' Unbelievable.

 

Generally each laptop has its own connection and power requirements, so they aren't very interchangeable to the latest upgrade and it gets thrown in the cupboard then binned as nobody has any use for it (won't play the latest games etc).

 

Obviously you need to check as they can go up to 24v on some models but it will all depend on what sort of point motors you settle on.  At least I've sent you in the right direction   You might even find some sort of 'electronics exchange' or 'cash converters' type shop will have them in too if you have anything locally.

[45568]

Looking a little further ahead Phil, when you are considering coaches and want a change from the Bulleid/Maunsell/mk1 corridor stock, how about these?

These are the Replica 64'6" non-corridor stock and are available from Replica as a 'kit' of all parts necessary to build the coach for 24.95GBP each. Slightly more difficult than the Dapol Staniers, they come with all parts to complete, with ready painted bodies. Replica can supply most of the decals you need to finish them as well. I have just finished the SR 3-set, and a crimson WR SO(NG).

 A link to Graham Muz' review is here http://www.semgonline.com/model/rep-mk1.html which also gives the news that a set ran ran weekly on the main line on the 6.50am from Exeter to Axminster and return, passing through....???

A link to Replica http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/ready-to-run-items/self-assembly

Hope this may be of assistance.

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

[Mallard60022]

Looking a little further ahead Phil, when you are considering coaches and want a change from the Bulleid/Maunsell/mk1 corridor stock, how about these?

2012-07-08 001 (800x600).jpg

2012-07-08 002 (800x600).jpg

2012-07-08 006 (800x600).jpg

2012-07-08 005 (800x600).jpg

2012-07-08 003 (800x600).jpg

2012-07-08 007 (800x600).jpg

These are the Replica 64'6" non-corridor stock and are available from Replica as a 'kit' of all parts necessary to build the coach for 24.95GBP each. Slightly more difficult than the Dapol Staniers, they come with all parts to complete, with ready painted bodies. Replica can supply most of the decals you need to finish them as well. I have just finished the SR 3-set, and a crimson WR SO(NG).

 A link to Graham Muz' review is here http://www.semgonline.com/model/rep-mk1.html which also gives the news that a set ran ran weekly on the main line on the 6.50am from Exeter to Axminster and return, passing through....???

A link to Replica http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/ready-to-run-items/self-assembly

Hope this may be of assistance.

Cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

Thanks matey. They are on a 'list'. I have one of their RTR sets 'on order' but I don't think it is ever going to appear. I have a pic of the train at Axminster, ready to return to Exeter with a MN, tender first as the loco. Full, 5 coach Exmouth Set as well; I believe the two extra coaches were 2nds but I need to double check that. 

Lovely job on them by the way, they look really good.

Cheers,

Phil