RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted August 20, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2015 Something dirty this way comes... 30317_rhfan.jpg Very well executed, what do you use as a base colour? A random dirty mix or something specific and then add shades? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted August 20, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2015 Very well executed, what do you use as a base colour? A random dirty mix or something specific and then add shades? Vallejo Model Air Panzer Black Grey usually as a base colour. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted August 20, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2015 Excellent I have some of that already somewhere so I must find an old model to experiment on first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PayneTrain Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Odd question, but has anyone heard of any 700s being fitted with the wrong Chimney? I bought a Southern liveried one, which was meant to come with the chimney with a capuchon (lip), but it appears to have come with one without. It doesn't appear to be that the piece has broken off, simply that the wrong one was attached. I've got the vendor, model mania of Bristol looking into it, but it's just a bit odd. The chimney can be easily removed and replaced with another (thanks to the 'air glue' mentioned earlier in this thread!) so would be happy to simply pop in a replacement correct one. Just curious as to whether this was a common problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium brushman47544 Posted October 8, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2015 Odd question, but has anyone heard of any 700s being fitted with the wrong Chimney? I bought a Southern liveried one, which was meant to come with the chimney with a capuchon (lip), but it appears to have come with one without. It doesn't appear to be that the piece has broken off, simply that the wrong one was attached. I've got the vendor, model mania of Bristol looking into it, but it's just a bit odd. The chimney can be easily removed and replaced with another (thanks to the 'air glue' mentioned earlier in this thread!) so would be happy to simply pop in a replacement correct one. Just curious as to whether this was a common problem. Can't speak for the 700s, but Hornby's factory managed to fit a small batch of its 5011 Tintagel Castle in Great Western livery with a smokebox numberplate. Presumably the factory was using up smokebox doors and the people putting the locos weren't trained to realise the error and there were too few to be picked up by quality control. So it wouldn't surprise me if something similar happened on other models. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilwell Park Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Hi. I have just removed the tender draw bar from my 700 to close couple it. However on the close setting the fall plate jams on the coal shovelling plate and it will only run on straight track. I have tried to remove the fall plate, but unlike other engines where they are sometimes loose this one is firmly fixed. I know I have read how to get round this somewhere, and have re read this thread from the beginning, but cannot find it again. Could somebody please assist? Thank you Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted October 9, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 9, 2015 The amount of glue used may vary. I managed to carefully lever mine out using a flat bladed screwdriver. I'll post details of what I did with it this weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted October 10, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 10, 2015 And here it is - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82968-niles-mostly-freelance-bodging-bench-lswr-700-class/page-18&do=findComment&comment=2048289 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted October 10, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 10, 2015 A quick question: have Hornby ever made any official comment about the handrail knob angle error, either to confirm it was a mistake or that it was an intentional design choice? If a mistake, are they ever going to take steps to rectify it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
olivegreen Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 In that order, and as far as I know, 'no' and 'as long as they keep selling, I doubt it'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed 66 plant Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 devonseasider---I have tried the TCS DP2X-UK but cannot get the tender top back on. Have firstly got the front lug in place but the rear will not push down flush.When I remove the chip there is no problem. The chip when inserted sits well up from the dcc ready base and I think comes into contact with the underside sloped part of the front tender top when trying to refix.I do not think that the chip can be made to sit lower. Any ideas appreciated, thanks and regards, Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted October 18, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) I used a DCC Concepts ZN6D zen 6 pin one that fit between the two raised strips carrying the contacts. The stay alive fitted in as I removed two weights with no ill effect on running. If you don't want the stay alive then you can keep all the weights. It was a Bachmann 6-8 pin adaptor I used to connect the chip. Edited October 18, 2015 by PaulRhB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium barrymx5 Posted October 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) devonseasider---I have tried the TCS DP2X-UK but cannot get the tender top back on. Have firstly got the front lug in place but the rear will not push down flush.When I remove the chip there is no problem. The chip when inserted sits well up from the dcc ready base and I think comes into contact with the underside sloped part of the front tender top when trying to refix.I do not think that the chip can be made to sit lower. Any ideas appreciated, thanks and regards, Ed I had the same problem. I removed the tender body to see if the weights were the problem but it was not the case for the TCS DP2X-UK. It is the sloping piece of plastic body under the artificial coal that is the problem. I carefully marked the piece to be removed and then drilled a series of holes in an oblong until the errant piece could be removed. The hole is then hidden by the replaced coal after the tender body is relocated on the tender chassis. I also ran insulating tape along the top of the weights. All Sounds a bit drastic but not too difficult as long as the drill is kept fairly vertical (to avoid piercing the body side). The 700 now runs very nicely in DCC. I will put real coal in the tender in due course. Not sure yet whether to use existing plastic coal as base or put a new plasticard base in. I will probably start with the former and if it does not look satisfactory, resort to the new plasticard base. First time I have taken my Dremmel to a brand new £100 loco but pleased with the result. Just take it easy and do not rush. Regards Barry Edited October 30, 2015 by barrymx5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed 66 plant Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Gentlemen--- -----------------following advice offered by my good friend 250 BOB/BOB250,a regular contributer on the web; I did the following with positive results. I removed the 2 screws holding the dcc ready plug-in base.I then placed it further back in the tender,away from the curved underside--thereby creating more headroom.I put insulating material on the 2 parallel copper pick-up strips on the tender base.I then black tacked the plug- in base in position.I plugged in the TCSDP2X-UK decoder. Note that I still found it necessary to remove all 3 ballast weights--probably because I used the thick Lenz decoder sticky pad. However there is ample space to introduce ballast elsewhere. This approach does away with the dremmel cut option. It is possible that the dcc ready base for the decoder sits at varying heights inside the tender ;hence the variety of solutions offered. regards, Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) Lenz Standard in mine, sticky pad onto the copper tracks, tape over the one retained weight and the tender coaled with coal over liquid gravity. The removed weights quickly found a use, along with a nut and bit of scrap metal, for weighting the tender of my Golden Arrow 0395. Edited November 6, 2015 by Butler Henderson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium barrymx5 Posted November 6, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2015 Good to see different solutions. I may try Ed's approach in my second 700. That is if I don't have a crack at Paul Chetter's solution (?Hornby Magazine) to fitting a sound decoder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted November 6, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) Lenz Standard in mine, sticky pad onto the copper tracks, tape over the one retained weight amd the tender coaled with coal over liquid gravity. The removed weights quickly found a use, along with a nut and bit of scrap metal, for weighting the tender of my Golden Arrow 0395. All this unnecessary work to fit a decoder! See my post from earlier: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79964-Hornby-drummond-700/?p=1955023 Keith Edited November 6, 2015 by melmerby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 A quick question: have Hornby ever made any official comment about the handrail knob angle error, either to confirm it was a mistake or that it was an intentional design choice? If a mistake, are they ever going to take steps to rectify it? It's almost certainly a tooling limitation. Either the casting of the boiler with the holes horizontal or the machine that fits the handrail knobs only working in the horizontal. So, neither a mistake nor a choice. It's a very minor point - there are very few handrail knobs (from memory about 3 either side) so it hardly notices. If it could be overcome, the cost of retooling would most probably make it uneconomic to do so. (CJL) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 All this unnecessary work to fit a decoder! See my post from earlier: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79964-Hornby-drummond-700/?p=1955023 Keith I tried your approach but in the absence of any lead the liquid gravity consumed too much internal space hence the use of it on top under a new coal load. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted November 6, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2015 It's almost certainly a tooling limitation. Either the casting of the boiler with the holes horizontal or the machine that fits the handrail knobs only working in the horizontal. So, neither a mistake nor a choice. It's a very minor point - there are very few handrail knobs (from memory about 3 either side) so it hardly notices. If it could be overcome, the cost of retooling would most probably make it uneconomic to do so. (CJL) Chris, All the major manufacturers have, for years, managed to produce loco bodies with handrail knobs radial to the boiler. Not having a 700, I'm guessing that the boiler is cast mazak. Nonetheless, I can't believe that the casting process precludes radial holes; I can believe that it may be cheaper to mould horizontal holes. If horizontal holes were necessary, surely moulded plastic handrail knobs with horizontal shanks but radial bodies would have overcome the apparent problem ? Let's hope that this is the last time we see 'design clever' / cheapo solutions to basic design features such as this !! Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulwell Hall Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Chris, All the major manufacturers have, for years, managed to produce loco bodies with handrail knobs radial to the boiler. Not having a 700, I'm guessing that the boiler is cast mazak. Nonetheless, I can't believe that the casting process precludes radial holes; I can believe that it may be cheaper to mould horizontal holes. If horizontal holes were necessary, surely moulded plastic handrail knobs with horizontal shanks but radial bodies would have overcome the apparent problem ? Let's hope that this is the last time we see 'design clever' / cheapo solutions to basic design features such as this !! Regards, John Isherwood. If you look at the Hornby Grange and the Castle I think you will find that they also have handrails that are horizontal so what is all the fuss about? I don't recall any comment when these models were released some years ago now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 If you look at the Hornby Grange and the Castle I think you will find that they also have handrails that are horizontal so what is all the fuss about? I don't recall any comment when these models were released some years ago now. Surely the point is that they should be radial to the boiler. It is like the seams on the smokebox, etc things that in this day and age should not be done. I know on allmodels that youhave to compromise but surely not on visible details. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Market65 Posted November 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2015 But would not plastic knobs break easily? I have had plastic knobs break on loco's in the past. I prefer metal knobs for durability. With regards, Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted November 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) Surely the point is that they should be radial to the boiler. It is like the seams on the smokebox, etc things that in this day and age should not be done. I know on allmodels that youhave to compromise but surely not on visible details. The previous poster is correct about it not being anything new but it is much more noticeable on small parallel-boiler locos and I really hope they won't do it on the Adams Radial. The King Arthurs and the new S15s are like it, too, but they haven't attracted comment because the knobs are very nearly horizontal on the real thing. On closer inspection under natural daylight, the very subtle up-tilt of the prototype handrail knobs is correctly represented. Apologies, Hornby. John Edited November 7, 2015 by Dunsignalling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) The previous poster is correct about it not being anything new but it is much more noticeable on small parallel-boiler locos and I really hope they won't do it on the Adams Radial. The King Arthurs and the new S15s are like it, too, but they haven't attracted comment because the knobs are very nearly horizontal on the real thing. John They seem to be going backwards with their designs, there is no need for them to be horizontal, might soon have moulded on handrails again, rather than being more prototypical. Edited November 6, 2015 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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