Javelin Models Long wheelbase LMS Black V in O Gauge

[dikitriki]

I believe that Sanspareil will be at the Reading show, I don't know if they will have any of these kits with them but you could ask. Do you know how much the kit costs Richard?

 

Len

 

I don't, but I have to contact him for some other components, so I shall ask about price/availability/Reading then. He can somethimes be a little elusive, so don't hold your breath.

 

While I'm here, I've been considering any issues I had. None were major but I recall the following:

 

* The front spectacle plate had to be split into the front aspect and 2 wings, and trimmed to fit - too wide otherwise.

 

* The footplate cut out for the boiler and smokebox was way too narrow and required quite a lot of filing to get right.

 

* The front footplate above the frames required lengthening. Edit: this should read 'frames above the front footplate required lengthening', sorry

 

* Dome the wrong shape - too big.

 

* No tender coal chute/interior.

 

* Tender brake shoes/hangers missing - and despite what it says in the instructions, not available. Go straight to Ragstone.

 

I don't wish to give the impression it's a perfect kit, it's not, but I do still think it's the best starting point, and the components are comprehensive and high quality. I came to the conclusion that the very best way to get a Std 5 was to use the DJH etchings and the Sanspareil castings, but that doubles the cost!

 

It's been fun going back over my build. My enthusiasm is whetted for getting back to it.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

Edited November 4, 2013 by dikitriki

[dibateg]

The etchings did seem very similar in design to the 4mm ones I had for the Gibson Black 5, I got the impression that they had been resized to 7mm scale. There is some work necessary to get the cab to fit together, and to fit the boiler to the running plate. I also added an upturn at rear of the running plate. So it doesn't fall together like an MOK!

 

Some of the castings seemed like Class 4 ones to me and check the smokebox door in the kit looks like class 4 eas well, I replaced mine with a DJH one.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

Edited November 5, 2013 by dibateg

[Horsetan]

I don't, but I have to contact him for some other components, so I shall ask about price/availability/Reading then. He can somethimes be a little elusive, so don't hold your breath.

 

While I'm here, I've been considering any issues I had. None were major but I recall the following:

 

* The front spectacle plate had to be split into the front aspect and 2 wings, and trimmed to fit - too wide otherwise.

 

* The footplate cut out for the boiler and smokebox was way too narrow and required quite a lot of filing to get right.

 

* The front footplate above the frames required lengthening.....

 

 

These are flaws that affect the Gibson 4mm kit as well, albeit the front footplate valencing needed lengthening, rather than the footplate itself. Bizarrely, the footplate opening for the boiler and smokebox came out too wide, rather than too narrow. The firebox casting was asymmetrical, and I've noticed the same thing on the firebox of the "Crab" kit as well. Just a bit disappointing.

[PAD]

Back to the LMS Class 5.

 

Here's a selection after weathering. When I get a chance I'll take some shots of the chassis when the cylinders are off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I really must paint the brass rod under the boiler (for the pick ups) and get a set of etched name plates. The smoke box number plate and shed plate are from water slide transfers.

 

[JeffP]

Front end looks OK to me.

 

I often think that etched front numberplates are too thin anyway.

[PAD]

Front end looks OK to me.

 

I often think that etched front numberplates are too thin anyway.

Yes, but I need the works plates for the loco and tender.

[JeffP]

I think Guilplates will do them separate?

[ozzyo]

Back to the LMS Class 5.

 and get a set of etched name plates. The smoke box number plate and shed plate are from water slide transfers.

 

Nice looking build PAD, was this the one that you had with you at Cleck.?

 

I did not realise that 44679 was named!

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. Martyn, the Severn class 5 could be the Jim Harris one with some (a lot) of work done on it. Like PADs DoG..

[PAD]

Hi Ozzy, no it was not named. That's a typing error. I meant to type "etched plates" not etched name plates. Yes it is the one I showed you at Cleckheaton.

 

I am not sure if the Seven Std class 5 is a completed new-design for loco, the as it is for the Clan, Brit, and DoG. I seem to recall that it is more or less pure Jim Harris with some new castings but I could be wrong. All the Seven BR tenders are pure Jim Harris.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[Jack P]

Looks fantastic! How did you weather the motion? It looks a bit like blackening fluid

[PAD]

Looks fantastic! How did you weather the motion? It looks a bit like blackening fluid

Thanks Jack.

The motion was airbrushed during the overall weathering of the chassis and then given some washes of "dirty thinners" with a brush afterwards. I don't recall the exact mix as I do it different with each loco. Maybe I should take some notes as I thought it was much a better result than on the Brit for example.

 

[3 link]

Afternoon Peter,

 

Did you by any chance have the loco above on show at Telford a few years ago ?

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[JeffP]

Yet, to me, that Brit looks pretty decent!

[PAD]

Hi Martyn, I took it to a few exhibitions both in raw brass and painted to run on the test tracks. Not sure if I ever took it to Telford. I did a review of the kit for the O gauge gazette some years ago. Maybe you saw it in that? If you are a member you should be able to find it on the guild website.

 

Jeff, don't get me wrong I am pleased with how it turned out, but it was built about 8 years ago. I like to think I have improved a little both in terms of the construction and the painting, lining and weathering. When I get the DoG finished you can decide.

Cheers, Peter.

[3 link]

Hi Peter,

 

Come to think of it, it might have been at one of the Reading shows, what really struck me at the time was the livery and what looked like a slight bluish hue applied along the boiler like it had had a quick polish with an oily rag.

 

It must of been good as it has stuck in my memory ever since, do you happen to remember who's green paint you used on her ?

 

Beautiful looking loco, I will have a look on the GOG website.

 

Martyn.

Edited November 7, 2013 by 3 link

[PAD]

Hi Peter,

 

Come to think of it, it might have been at one of the Reading shows, what really struck me at the time was the livery and what looked like a slight bluish hue applied along the boiler like it had had a quick polish with an oily rag.

 

It must of been good as it has stuck in my memory ever since, do you happen to remember who's green paint you used on her ?

 

Beautiful looking loco, I will have a look on the GOG website.

 

Martyn.

Hi Martyn, I've only been to Reading once and I did not take it there . I use the Halfords version of Land Rover Deep Bronze Green decanted from the cans and then air brushed. I gave up spraying direct from the cans as the nozzles allays seem to block or splatter and the can always seems to run our of gas with paint still in it.

 

What I do to decant the paint is remove the plastic nozzle, invert the can, prop it against a wall and press down on a wedge of newspaper. I then put a large brick on the bottom of the tin to keep the valve pressed and with the tip slightly at an angle the gas just vents off. You loose a small amount of paint at the start. When all the gas is vented, I then open the bottom of the can (very carefully) with an old tin opener and pour the paint into another sealable container. All this is done out side of course in the back garden. Hope I'm not destroying the ozone layer, but the gas escapes anyway if you use the can to spray the paint.

 

N.B. Be very careful when first piercing the can, as even though gas has been vented it can still spurt some paint, so watch your eyes or wear protective goggles.

 

Bear in mind that the hue of a colour can vary considerably depending on the light source, due to the phenomenon known as metamerism. Many years ago in the company I worked for, we had two piece of grey material, which when viewed in a certain light, most viewers would say were a good colour match. However, as you varied the light conditions in the light cabinet, by increasing the tungsten lighting (red) and reducing the fluorescent lighting (blue), one piece of grey material would take on a very reddish hue and the other a very greenish hue and being no where near a colour match! This was an extreme of course, but the point is the hue of a colour can vary with the light source and even through out the day in natural daylight.

 

The bottom line is to choose a colour for BR green or whatever, that you are happy with and go with that.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[Jim1988]

Hi do you know if that model comes in a 00 gauge because this is the first black 5 my grandad fired to London back in the day and I would like to build it for him to go an his 00 gauge layout