PAD Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Here's a couple of shots of the firebox top with the cleats and joint screws added. The cleats were supplied as etchings in the kit and the bolt was added from some very small brass nails with the ends snipped to length. The screws were added from 0.6m brass rod. To get the screws the same height, the rod is soldered into predrilled holes, and then I drill a 0.6mm hole into a piece of waste fret. This is slid over the rods one at a time, push down tight against the top of the firebox, and then the rod is snipped with the side cutters up tight against the piece of fret. A final rub with the glass fibre pen tidies things up. (I have since discovered Garriflex blocks and would now use this instead). Here's the front end 3 point oil boxes under construction to replace the supplied castings. The castings are nice but are too tall and too narrow. And in place on the footplate. The scratch built steam lance cock and the oil stop valve from the lubricator to the atomiser can also be seen along with the atomiser casting from Mr. Griffin. I could not source castings for the first two items. And finally the other side. at this stage the set screws had been removed from the top feed but the top hat cover was yet to be added. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 29, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 29, 2013 That's one mighty fine beast. Love the firebox strapping; very clever stuff. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Hellfire! I can't see any solder on it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Hellfire! I can't see any solder on it! Damn! I new there was something I forgot. Is that the soft silvery stuff on the coil? What's that heaty uppy thing for??? Joking aside Dibateg, thanks for the compliment but I can't see any solder on your brace of 4Fs either. How are they progressing? Like you, I have a sawn off file sharpened file and a sharpened curved dental tool which I also find very good for removing excess solder. Used the scratch brush for many years but recently discovered Garriflex blocks following some tips from one or two of the blokes on the blog. Cheers, Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Moving back to the chassis, here's an underside shot showing the break rigging and sand pipes etc. A close up of the break rigging which is mainly etched with the odd cast component. I must admit though that I tend not to be too concerned about the detail underneath as long as it looks the part from normal viewing angles. However, if the parts are supplied I will put them on. Note the brackets for attaching the sand pipes. This is the first kit I have built where these have been included in the design. And from the left side showing the added cast ash pan operating lever which I sourced from Acorn. It's off their Ivatt class 4 2-6-0. I have built one so I knew they made the part and fortunately they are most obliging in selling casting sprues from their kit range. And a shot of the completed right hand Walshearts. The gear is set in forward so that you get the realistic movement of the valve rods when in motion. I added the oil feed pipes from the lubricators as best I could from the photos I had available. This included one or two pipes to the motion and slide bars. In this shot you can just see the added oil box on the etched drop link and combination lever. I shied clear of adding the corks though! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Here's a shot including the lubricators and oil piping. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Also in the last picture, I had added dummy rodding from the lubricators to the valve gear and you can better see the oil box on the drop link and the lengthened union link mentioned earlier. This shot shows the pipe added under the smokebox that was not included. It was left over from the Slaters Caledonian Pug. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I've put an update on my thread Pete - More tidy work from your good self, out of interest, how is the return crank secured? Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 This shot shows the pipe added under the smokebox that was not included.What is the purpose of the right angle pipe under the smokebox / between LH frame plate and centre footplating? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 I've put an update on my thread Pete - More tidy work from your good self, out of interest, how is the return crank secured? Regards Tony Hi Tony, if you go back a page you'll see a diagram and some pics that will explain. Will have a look at your thread shortly. Was working my way through from page 1 earlier. Lots of excellent stuff but the 4Fs take the biscuit. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 What is the purpose of the right angle pipe under the smokebox / between LH frame plate and centre footplating? I believe its tge pipe run bsck towards the cab from the steam heating pipe or the brake pipe. Not sure which without checking. All I know for sure is that it was on the prototype so I've put it on the model. Cheers, Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 OH heck, I shouldn't have looked at this thread. What a stunning loco you have built. So beatifully crafted. Now I'm just going to have to have one to join the 4472 & 6210 on the display shelf. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 OH heck, I shouldn't have looked at this thread. What a stunning loco you have built. So beatifully crafted. Now I'm just going to have to have one to join the 4472 & 6210 on the display shelf. You're going to need a bigger mantle piece. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Aye, that's already full. I'm now on the coffee table and just started on the window ledges. The long haired one will soon call a halt me thinks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 OH heck, I shouldn't have looked at this thread. What a stunning loco you have built. So beatifully crafted. Now I'm just going to have to have one to join the 4472 & 6210 on the display shelf. Thanks Ken. For me the later Ivatt versions of the Black 5 just have the edge from the aesthetic point of view. Considering they were also the most technically advanced (roller bearings, rocking grates etc.) of the breed, it's strange and sad that only the Stephenson valve geared variant made it into preservation. I'm not sure if Javelin kits are still available but Gladiator and David Andrews have kits on their ranges I believe. I look forward to seeing your take on a Black 5 build. Cheers, Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 The Javelin kits are now marketed by Gladiator. I think there are quite a few of us on here who would like to see Ken build a Black 5. Your build is superb, PAD. The attention to detail you put in is fantastic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 .....strange and sad that only the Stephenson valve geared variant made it into preservation.... Not for me it isn't. It's much the most fascinating engine I've seen on the British preservation network, purely because of its valve gear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Considering they were also the most technically advanced (roller bearings, rocking grates etc.) of the breed, it's strange and sad that only the Stephenson valve geared variant made it into preservation. Not for me it isn't. It's much the most fascinating engine I've seen on the British preservation network, purely because of its valve gear. Not quit correct Pete, most if not all locos numbered below 5000 (45000) all had some modifications on them, by that time the long firebox was the normal one, IIRC the longer wheelbase was due to the hopper ash pan, this also resulted in a longer smokebox. For both of you, I think that D.As. does a kit for 4767, now that would be nice to see a build thread on. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Not for me it isn't. It's much the most fascinating engine I've seen on the British preservation network, purely because of its valve gear. Hi Horsetan fully understand why the Stephenson loco was preserved. I just think it a shame that none of the later Ivatt 5s with all mod cons did not survive. Fascinating this gear may be but very cluttered and complex in appearance though. Each to his own. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbax Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 by that time the long firebox was the normal one, IIRC the longer wheelbase was due to the hopper ash pan, this also resulted in a longer smokebox. I thought that the longer wheelbase was because of the use of roller bearings. The boiler and firebox were standard and the extra length resulted in a longer smokebox. Once the longer frames were introduced then all subsequent locos had the same frames whether they had roller bearings or not Philbax Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 The smokebox was lengthened by 4 inches to correspond with the 4 inch increase in the trailing wheelbase. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 This is the back plate. It would have been nice to have the castings in brass but it looks OK after painting. Here's the finished article in the cab. I still need to weather it to tone down the brass and copper. The fire box door lever is white metal and was bent when I took the photo but has since been straightened. would have been better in brass. The fire box with the whistle and safety vales in place (removed before painting). Note the ventilation holes just below the roof. These were etched in. And here's the smoke box with all the details in place. The lamp irons are from Laurie Griffin and the one on the smoke box door is fixed via a spigot and soldered from the rear with 145 C solder. No need to clean up and no risk of damage on the outside of the door. I use 145 a lot for soldering brass to white metal. As long as you have plenty of flux and get in and out quick with out dwelling you can get away with it. The screw couplings after fettling. An finally a couple of shots after completion running on my brother's railway. I'll post a selection of shots after painting, lining and weather when I have resized them. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 (edited) I thought that the longer wheelbase was because of the use of roller bearings. The boiler and firebox were standard and the extra length resulted in a longer smokebox. Once the longer frames were introduced then all subsequent locos had the same frames whether they had roller bearings or not Philbax Hello Phil, all, one of the problems of replying without checking your books. Quote "This was because the size of split cannon boxes and consequent larger horngaps required more space between driving axle and firebox. In order to simplify marking out of the frames, it was decided to make all class 5s starting with Crewe No. 4758 turned out in Sep. 1947, with the longer wheelbase, irrespective of the type of bearing fitted, it also meant that roller bearings could be fitted later if required." L.M.S. locomotive profiles No.7 page 36. When I was saying a long firebox boiler I should explain. The black 5s had two basic types of boiler, vertical throat plate (short firebox) and sloping throat plate (long firebox). On the original class 5s you could tell the long firebox boilers by the position of the joint between the boiler and firebox this was over the centre of the middle driver. On a long wheelbase class 5 this joint is to the rear and the rear boiler band is just to the rear of the centre of the middle driver. OzzyO. Edited November 1, 2013 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Back tracking to the chassis, heres a shot on the rollers after the motor, gearbox and pick ups had been fitted. Pick ups are phosphor bronze wire wipers acting on the back of all driving wheels. Normally I make individual pick ups on copper clad sleepers, but in this case to reduce on wiring and in an attempt to make the pick ups in one unit, I joined all three copper clad sleepers with a length of brass rod at each side. It's not too clear in the photo, but the pick ups are soldered to the rod not the copper clad. The wires to the motor are soldered to pieces of copper clad epoxied to the motor sides and then joined to the motor by separate wires. In this way the pick ups can be easily removed en mass and the wires on the motor do not need to be touched once in place. The rodding was later painted matt black to disguise it. It works OK but was a fiddle to make so I'm not likely to use it again. After stripping and cleaning the parts were given a coat of etch primer followed by Halfords Cellulose grey primer. Top coat was Halfords gloss black decanted from the tin and applied via my Sparmax airbrush. Lining and lettering was by HMRS, supplemented with some hand lining for some of the curves, with a coat of satin varnish afterwards, and finally weatherering was a mix of air and dry brushing. Here's some pictures before weathering. Yeah I know, I should have dusted the model first. Note the later style vents on the rear bulkhead. And a shot on my brother's fictitious LM region branch line terminus, "Summerbridge". 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 (edited) And a shot on my brother's fictitious LM region branch line terminus, "Summerbridge". Evening Peter, Regarding your brother's layout, are there any pictures, plans,size of the layout and the minimum radius ? Sorry for all the questions but I am at the planning stage of my layout and even though I have an area of 19' x 16', I am shocked at how little in terms of trackwork I can fit in, being that I want a roundy-roundy with a minimum radius of 6'. Just like in " Little Britain " the computer say's " NO " well in this case Templot say's " NO ". Regards, Martyn. Edited November 1, 2013 by 3 link Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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