JeffP Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Very nice, those brake shoes look very neat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Yes, personally I prefer etched parts for the brake components. If not then cast brass or N/s with W/m last. Just noticed a minor fault in the kit. If you look at the ash pan, you will notice a joint. The ash pan is part of the etch on the middle laminate of the loco springs between the middle and rear axles. For some reason, the spacing is set for a short wheel base loco, so it needs to be lengthened. You could cut it off and replace with a new piece of n/s, or as I did cut it and fill the gap with a piece of waste etch. The other joint line is out of site behind the break hanger and shoes. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Very nice build, will be following with interest.. GT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Well I never.....a fault on the loco? I'd never have seen it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Well I never.....a fault on the loco? I'd never have seen it. A fault in the loco kit, yes, a fault in the build. No. One thing about building kits is knowing how to solve the problems that kits can through at you. I may have tried to put the two joints behind the two wheels, but it may not have been possible on this kit. PAD will be able to let us all know. I'm sure that when a coat of paint is applied to the ash pan it will not be seen. Nice looking build, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Thanks Ozzy. You are right I could have opted to put the joint behind the wheels but I figured it was as broad as it was long, which ever way I did it. I decided to cut it in the middle as I marked on the drawing below, solder a piece across the gap on the inside with a piece of waste fret between the gap (about 6 mm as I recall) with the joints filled will solder. The result before paining was not as good as I would have liked, but I did not consider the joint would show after painting. Fortunately it was OK. As it happens, it was the inner laminate for the springs not the middle one as I wrote earlier. See diagram. And after painting. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Give over.........that last picture is a real one...isn't it? If it were on rails, I'd argue with you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 19, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 19, 2013 Well mate, I thought your Duke was class, so what am I going to say about this? Superb and I really admire your clean and crisp work; very smart and as JeffP says (well almost), that's the real thing..... Cracking job and I'm really looking forward to seeing this progress. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Thanks gents. Have a look at dibateg's thread on his Ivatt class 4 builds. They might end up flying, but they are definitely not pigs. More like some part of a dog's anatomy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 .... More like some part of a dog's anatomy. Surely a pig's would be more appropriate? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 No it's definitely a dog in this neck of the woods. don't think being likened to the pig's b*ll*cks is quite the same thing. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 No it's definitely a dog in this neck of the woods. don't think being likened to the pig's b*ll*cks is quite the same thing. You've clearly not seen the size of a pig's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 But pigs have a long association with ears. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 You've clearly not seen the size of a pig's. You certainly wouldn't want them as a set of ear muffs . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 But pigs have a long association with ears. It's not the ears I'm worried about. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 It's not the ears I'm worried about. I got that. Actually the Tuberous bushcricket have the biggest cajoles relative to it's body size of any creature on the planet. It's balls make up 14% of it's body weight. For QI fans the Blue Whale's are only 1% of it's body weight. So surely it should be the Tuberous Bushcricket's balls? Apologies to PAD for us wandering well off topic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 Post 31.... I reckon thats a real one thats been Photoshopped to look like a model !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 With the chassis on its wheels I moved on to the footplate. Used the GW rollers to bend the drop plates at the front and back of the footplate. It went together without problems and here's the end result. There's a fair few rivets to punch out on the footplate and this was done using an automatic centre punch with the etch place on some 2mm aluminium sheet. The aluminium sheet prevents distortion and with the auto punch you get a consistent hit with each rivets. For larger rivets I give two hits/rivet but again it is consistent. Much better than using a punch and hammer and a lot cheaper than a rivet press. The rivet press is of course much better for punching rivets in virgin metal but for half etch this gives a good result. You do need to find a punch that exerts the right amount of force though. After that I started on the boiler, smoke box and firebox. The firebox is built up around spacers and 6 ba nuts. You set up the front and rear of the firebox with the spacers, then form and fix the firebox wrapper around this structure and solder. The wash out plugs are half etched and need to be fitted before the wrapper is added. For my chosen loco, I needed to drill an extra hole low down on each side to add an extra washout plug and there were some spares for this in the kit. Unfortunately I did not take an pics of the firebox after assembly before it was in place on the footplate. The boiler comes pre rolled but the smoke box requires rolling by the builder. This was the first time I had used the GW rollers and they worked very well. I have the 6 inch set but I believe a 10 inch option is also available. The 6 inch should be fine for most boilers in 7 mm scale. Here's the boiler and smoke box in place on the frames. The cab has the half etch detail for the rivets and side window beading in place so that saves a lot of time and effort. The metal is quite thick even half etched so it is still robust. In fact this kit has some of the thickest etchings I have come across and I broke a pair of side cutters removing parts from the chassis fret. That said, this does not show in areas that matter and does not detract from the fidelity of the model. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 Before shaping the cab roof I beefed up the etched cross member at the rear of the cab with some square section brass and also added 2 additional cross members from the rear one to the cab front. This was then quite rigid and allowed me to use this as a template for shaping the roof before fitting. The cab rivet detail is all half etched as is the window beading. One other error in the kit is that the smoke box door ring casting is too small in diameter by about 4 mm and also it does not have the required rivet detail on either side. To correct the diameter, I cut the ring at the bottom with a razor saw and then splayed the casting until it fit the smoke box etching. I then wedged a piece of white metal cut from a casting in my spares box into the gap and fixed with low temperature solder. After cleaning up it looked fine. The rivets were added by marking with the punch and then counter sinking the punch marks with a 6mm drill. I then added some small glass beads that I got from Hobbycraft, into the recesses and fixed with super glue. You have to be carful to get the depth right otherwise when you put the bead in it sinks too far and you don't end up with a dome showing to represent the rivet. I was a bit remiss in not taking any photos of the fixing of the boiler smoke box and firebox, but as can be seen, the smoke box saddle is a white metal casting. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 21, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2013 Just brilliant.......looks superb. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Thanks Mallard. One of the really good design features of the kit is that the cylinders, slide bars and motion brackets build up into one demountable unit. They are assembled on the frames to get everything lined up and one it's all soldered together, it simply slides out upwards. It is fixed back in place with a couple of 6ba screws. I seem to be missing a number of pictures from the build so I hope this pic of the assembly of the unit will explain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Whoops1 No picture. Here it is. The unit may then be removed from the frames to add the valve gear and detail. much easier than having to do it with the frames and wheels in the way. Here's some shots of the valve gear under construction. First the cross head, connecting rod and union link. As mentioned earlier, the union link is for a short wheelbase loco so I had to lengthen it using the etches supplied. You can see the joint here but it's not noticeable after weathering. Here's the left hand side with some of the gear in place. And the other side completed further advanced. Notice the holes just above the front sandbox filler backing plates. The original etching to represent the cover plate over the pipes coming from the top feed is too long. I did not realise until after I fitted it and drilled the holes to exit at the bottom. I had to remove the etches, make some replacements then refit and re-drill the holes higher up. I subsequently covered the lower holes with thin pieces of shim brass, and with the pipes in place they are disguised. And here the right hand return crank which screws on and off the centre crank pin bolt. Once you unscrew this (both sides of course), you can take the coupling rods off the crank pin, and after removing the retaining screws on top of the unit, remove it en-mass. A close up of the left hand cross head. At this point I still had to add the oil box to the etched drop link. Now that would have been nicer as a casting! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Superb modelling. What's it all held together with? Bolts? And would you care to go into how you made the return crank so easily demountable? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Hi Jeff, I tend to vary the method slightly depending on the kit. To be honest I can't remember the exact method I used on the class 5. I will screw it off and take a pic when I get the chance. It involves the use of two Slaters top hat bushes. One normal and one filed down so that the overall length just clears the thickness of the coupling rod and connecting rods.You need a means of holding a thread in the return crank etch so that it will screw on and off. Then when it's screwed up tight, you need to adjust the throw buy turning the bolt at the rear of the wheel with a screwdriver. You need the wheel off to do this. When I have a picture I might be able to explain it more clearly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 I think I get the idea, but if you get a pic or two, I'd be grateful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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