Kal Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Thanks, Jaz. I wwill be doing a bit of weathering in due course. However I'm not certain these warehouses are going to go on Wallington-Super-Mare, this section is supposed to be all bucolic ! Well we can always find room on Arboretum Valley for your works of art. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Well we can always find room on Arboretum Valley for your works of art. Sadly these are destined for my shunting plank or whatever eventually goes in the shed! I could scan & put up my cutting diagrams if that was any use... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Hi I was joking, but that is a very good offer and not one that can be refused. Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 I knew that! The drawings are very simple & just show one bay with a section for the ends, but I will scan them tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Here we go, as promised, a quick set of instructions for making a version of the factory. Please look at them in conjunction with the photos above. First of all the initial sketch on squared paper. Each square is 5mm x 5mm & I cut it out to this actual size, which messes with the scale a bit but as I'd estimated the whole thing based on the size of the emergency exit doors it's good enough for government work: Edit to add: That should read two thin vertical glazing bars between each thick vertical. The picture above should show three horizontal bars, not two. I do these by filing three horizontal grooves in the back of each vertical at the appropriate points, then gluing in the horizontal bars. It just happens the file on my Leatherman Wave is exactly the right width! I then glue the thin verticals straight on top of the horizontals which means there's a small gap between them and the glazing, but as that's only 0.020" it's barely noticeable. The centre rectangles of each of these should then have an additional layer of thin strip top and bottom to represent where the frames are thicker where the windows open, but I don't think I'm going to bother with this. A bit more detail about the columns & their cover paper. Hope the instruction here is clear - it is necessary to cut part way into the cover layer to be able to wrap the bottom section before gluing it to the main wall & then wrapping the top: Finally a rough sketch of how it all goes together: Hope that's of use! As you can probably see I have extended the end pillars to go round the ends of the buildings. Drawing these was way beyound my skills, you'll have to work it out from the pictures... Edit to add: Spot the deliberate mistake! The concrete wrap should be 90mm, of which the top section is 30mm... Edited January 10, 2014 by C&WR 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Cool thank-you Once the terra-forming is complete, I might try my hand at that. I can always ask Jaz to help me out if I fluff it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 C&WR Thank you for that, it is a great starting point.Different materials always had a slight impact on heights etc, anyways. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcredfer Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 In my honest opinion, Kal, I think you might be better off with weathered brick or concrete................. I can always ask Jaz to help me out if I fluff it. It looks like a much too modern a building to have got to that stage yet ............ Such nice plans, too. It would be a pity to overdo the ageing on it ............. Now I am heading for the door, such that I might age myself a little further ........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Anyway, apart from the Mk1 BSK I had seen another little bargain via the Bargain Hunters thread here. Even if it's a Railroad model I'm not going to argue with a Hornby Tornado for £56, especially when I could use some Clubcard vouchers just about to expire and have it delivered to the superstore up the road for nothing so it cost me £43 in the end. I had to have a little play first, picture is on the playing trains thread. The it as time for the arty shots: I am so going to enjoy when I can get this beauty racing round a proper layout. What will be even better is that she will be able to run alongside TSC's 220 Just love it Edited January 7, 2014 by C&WR 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebs Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Hornby Torndado for £56? What madness is this? My Dad's going to get me a new train for my 40th next month and I can't decide between a Class 37 Diesel (I just like them) or an A1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 The Tesco online sale has some really god deals on Hornby Railroad stuff at the moment, freebs. As well as the Tornado they have a Patriot (£67), a Flying Scotsman (£56), an 06 (described as a steam locomotive! £27) and a Smokey Joe (£22). There's also a small amount of rolling stock & reduced sets. I am really pleased witht he Tornado. Despite being from the Railroad range it's a nicely weighty model and a review on here says it compares favourably with the far more expensive Bachmann one, although the comparison was with a special edition which has a detailing pack unlike this one. It does have some wire handrails where I would have expected mouldings. While it ran beautifully on the slightly wonky bits of ancient Lima track & new stuff from the Hachette jobs the leading wheels truck is very light & jittery, so it kept jumping off which then threw the rest of the locomotive out of balance & caused derailments. Suspect this will not be an issue with a track which isn't just laid on the new laminate flooring - glad to say I could see where the track was deformed and it's not the floor which is wonky! I was glad to see it could happily pull four Hachette Mk1s & my new Bachmann Mk1 BSK, although these suffered from the usual derailment problems relating to poor track, too-tight curves and the mechanism which centres the couplings. It's going to be years before I can run the full train of FK, CK, BSK, 5 x SK anyway as when coupled up these were practically the length of our garden/playroom* - the train being laid out on a curve wasn't just to make for better photographs! *I know I have been whinging about needing a shed to put a railway in. We do actually have two rooms on the ground floor of the house which would both make perfect railway rooms, but sadly TLHC is going to need them for her work as a childminder when she gets the business going, and I cannot guarantee her charges would be as gentle with things I built as TSC! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Thoughts then turned back to the warehouse/factory. I'm still waiting for styrene, although I'm told it's been despatched, but I wanted to make some metal protective plates for the edges of the large doorway. Out with the heavy-gauge tinfoil: I fixed this to the edges of some vac-forming foam for stability, then gave it a coat of Humbrol gloss yellow: Left overnight to dry I put some thin strips of masking tape on and gave it a coat of Humbrol gloss black. I had a horrible feeling that in this case capillary action was not going to be my friend and sure enough this is what I found when I got home: Undeterred I stripped the paint off before supper and gave the bits a coat of Humbrol matt yellow and also, as I thought the stripes too wide, cut much thinner pieces of tape. I did this by sticking a big piece of maskers to the cutting mat then slicing it nice and thin as you can see at the front: After supper and TSC's story but prior to ironing, when I was convinced the yellow was dry, I gave it a spray with Tamiya matt black from a rattle can. The end result is here: I think this proves the concept, but even in my heart of hearts I don't think this can be disguised as or by weathering. for some reason the tape just doesn't seem to want to adhere, especially round the shaped corner. Therefore as I am too mean to buy Tamiya tape (and Hobbycraft is shut) I have cut some pieces of the takeaway lid, scored them to this right dimensions, flattened them out again and painted them matt yellow. What I'm hoping is that a finer spray from the can and the fact that the card is flat when spraying means the tape ill hold and no black get underneath. I can then scrape very gently to reveal the silver underneath... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Hi I do not think you can beat tamiya masking tape, it is more expensive, but is very good. Also, you should remove the masking as soon as the painting is finished to stop it being drawn under the masking tape, and also prevent a skin forming that, will come away with the tape. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Halfords do go faster stripes for cars, they do thin ones in a few colour, finding a Halfords that stocks them however is an art in itself, but you can put them on and leave them. Pop them at the angle and cut the piece out at one time for a good edge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the tip, Kal. Blast, thought I was supposed to leave the tape on as long as possible so the paint set! This could be here I have been going wrong - see the original work on the Hachettes where the numbers on the doors bled... Edit to add: Just gave it a whirl as the yellow was dry. I've packed the camera away so no pics, but it's 100% better. Not brilliant, and I will be stripping it back to go again, but this is now going to work if I stop being so heavy-handed with the spray! Edited January 8, 2014 by C&WR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Can you not paint them flat and then bend them to shape? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) Interesting idea, Jaz, I may pursue this if the painting continues to be a fail! The yellow surface I have on the foil card looked really good this morning & when I tried Kal's suggestion last night it basically worked except for my thinking "that will take one more spray of black" when in fact I should have left it! Thanks also to thebritfarmer. I had come to this conclusion myself, which is part of the reason why I have switched to the foil-covered card! The aluminium foil, despite being fairly heavy weight, is a real beggar to fold so I suspect the paint will fall off if I tried bending a pre-painted bit. With the card I can pre-score it, fold it, flatten it out again then paint. I expect I will abandon all attempts to use the foil at all, unless I end up with a corrugated iron former. Repeated experiments show it just doesn't work, at least in the way I have been trying. I may try and brace the doors of the station lift module from behind before I give up on them completely, though! Edited January 9, 2014 by C&WR 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Could you however build the track on a shelf, and have say a perspex sliding shelf to protect them in a room high enough to stop the little devils getting close? You could then use the new building to good effect,even if it would have to be a shunting spot? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebs Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Keep persevering - that's what this is all about - you'll get there! I'm also guilty of leaving tape on too long Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kal Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 On the subject of masking... If you ever use maskol or similar products do not leave it on more than 24 hours, less if you can, because it will start too eat at the surface and you will get little scratches or pits left behind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 Could you however build the track on a shelf, and have say a perspex sliding shelf to protect them in a room high enough to stop the little devils getting close? You could then use the new building to good effect,even if it would have to be a shunting spot? Do you know, Jaz, I had been thinking very similar. However to be completely OFSTED safe, and so I don't take up TLHC's workspace I have (pardon the pun) shelved this. At one point I was looking at running a track at picture-rail level, which would have the added bonus of not needing to have bridges over the doorways! If this went round the sitting room it could be a magnificent run, even if I would have to stand on a stool to see it. What I will probably do is build a plank. This could then be stored in the room converted from our internal garage which has some handy beams running across the width. I had come up with a plan roughly like this: The idea is to have this as a module which could late be incorporated into a large layout, allowing the main lines to be roundy-roundy. I will need to look at this to get an idea of space needed - unfortunately I don't own any track-planning software! The other issue is that this plan wouldn't use the factory, so I might dispense with the mainline section altogether, making it narrower. Keep persevering - that's what this is all about - you'll get there! I'm also guilty of leaving tape on too long Cheers, freebs. With the exception of my soldering which seems to have taken a backward step (this could also be because the iron tip is mucky) I think all my skills have shown a great deal of progression in the two years (gulp) since I started modelling again. this has largely because I have stuck at it and thought around problems, although I am now lacking my time in the car to work stuff out! On the subject of masking... If you ever use maskol or similar products do not leave it on more than 24 hours, less if you can, because it will start too eat at the surface and you will get little scratches or pits left behind. Of course at the moment I am rather keen on scratched and pitted! I happen to have a stack of Hobbycraft discount vouchers, so am planning a little raid on the way to Rugby on Saturday and will probably get some Tamiya tape if tonight's attempt with normal maskers cut to size isn't a success... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaz Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 How do you acquire the hobby craft discount vouchers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) How do you acquire the hobby craft discount vouchers? Christmas shopping! Any purchases around that time garnered a spend £20, get £5 off voucher. I may be going back to my model tank & aeroplane habit for a bit... Edited January 9, 2014 by C&WR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 Anyway, e have progress! Last night I stripped off the paint that hadn't worked particularly well on the foil-covered card & gave them a coat of Humbrol matt yellow. Today I got home and masked them up: I then gave them a quick spray and whipped the tape off immediately: Then stuck them in place: The left hand one is the one hen I just gave a wave of the can, the right when I thought, "oh go on, just one more pass..." I think it shows! However espoecially at a distance I think these have the look I'm after: Oh, you might also notice from the windows of the original model I have had a styrene delivery. Hrar, as The Small Controller wrote once*! BTW I am experimenting with designs for CCTV cameras. Might keep those pesky taggers at bay: Right-hand is just a bit of 1.5x1.5mm styrene cut off at an angle. The left one is a bit of 1.5x1.5mm with a cowl made out of little slivers. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted January 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2014 Nice job, It's really coming together. The cameras, definitely the left one. Have you got some 1mm round rod to cut a sliver off for the lens? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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