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My first attempt at weathering (N gauge)


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Ok. I the bought an airbrush. I will upload pictures tomorrow of it but this is the link:

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Compressor-Double-Action-Airbrushes/dp/B004XP7K9W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1372785471&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush

 

This is a very smart looking piece of kit.

 

Before I upload pictures of it, I am going to make a White background photo area (pics look better then)

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To actually do the weathering, I have decided to buy Railmatch paint. They can be found here:

 

1 - sleeper grime (code: 406)

2 - roof dirt (code: 403)

3 - matt varnish (code: 407)

4 - black (code: 205)

 

These were bought from http://www.howesmode...ts.php?CatID=10

 

 

If anyone has watched everard junction in 00 gauge, these are the paint he uses to get a brilliant result

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You have the same airbrush setup as me, although I got mine from a company called RDG Tools, they also do spares so are worth remembering.

 

When stripping these airbrushes down the fiddly bit is the trigger mechanism, the BD128 is slightly easier to put back together than the BD132.

 

If you need any information on stripping them down and cleaning let me know, the tips given on the website that I gave you in the other thread are useful for these two brushes.

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Hello Woolleys.

 

I was directed to your previous thread by Eric and Gripper.

 

I'd agree with most of the comments on there, but am glad you've stuck with it and decided to post on your progress.

 

Firstly, weathering is my nemises so I won't be offering any advice to you, in fact, I may actually learn something from you. The reason I've posted though is to offer a little support since you appear to be new to all this. I'm not sure how old you are, but when I was about 12, (nearly 30 years ago - how time flys!), I grabbed an old Lima Western and a tin of Halfords Maroon aerosol. I gave it no primer coat and the thing looked AWFUL! I was undeterred and made a few more bodges before a Tri-ang class 31 which looked a little better in Railfreight Grey and next, a Hornby Dublo class 20 in triple Grey which was just about passable.

 

After 30 years, I'm at a standard that I feel is acceptable and am generally happy with the stuff I'm building now. It's taken a long time to get here and a lot of perseverence, (along with a bit of a break when women seemed more important - that stage will come to you too in a few years, be prepared).

 

I guess my point is, no matter how "amateur" your first attempts may be, (they may also be top notch from the outset too), as long as you continue to enjoy what you're doing and have the enthusiasm to keep at it, then all power to your airbrush matey.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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Thanks for all the kind comments.

 

I have already learnt something from weathering, DO NOT BUY HUMBROL WEATHERING POWDERS

 

Although they seem to be OK, but most, if not nearly all the people who weather use an airbrush.

 

I attempted to use powder on an Hornby loco. Photos to follow

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Hmmm i should hang on to the weathering powders,

 

They give you the best of both worlds,since they can be removed.You will find ,you get to try the weathering powders more than once.

This will not be the case with traditional painting since in order to remove the it the loco etc will need a full strip and repaint.

I am not the one to advise further on Weathering powders.If you seek out Barry O who posts on RMweb regularly you will find he is a 

Master of the Dark arts when it comes to weathering powders and weathering in general.He is an excellent tutor and will be more than happy

to advise you with their use.

 

Airbrushing is another facet of weathering its effects are permanent and need careful application.The best advice i have here is "Less is more"

Start off with a light weathering then build on in from there.

 

You will find you cannot weather everything with an airbrush.If you do the effect will appear too flat. Airbrushes are brilliant for adding the environmental and

speed driven dirt effects.Since that sort of filth pretty much occurs in that way. Nooks and crannies where muck collects (an 08 shunter for example)

will need some other method.Inks and paint washes would be best for this Barry O can again advise you on their application.I tend to use paint washes

and drybrushing. You will i'm sure use whatever method best suits you.

 

Hope some of this helps

 

Best wishes

 

Eric & Gripper.

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Hi,

Can I just put in a word of support for everything Eric and Gripper have said. Weathering is a range of techniques and while an airbrush is very useful other methods can be very useful. A flattie brush for example is very useful for "dragging off" airbrushed weathering to get a streaked effect.

This was weathered using airbrush, washes and powders http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68907-tops-rail-blue-class-08/

 

Can I also re-iterate the advice about practising on paper or card to get a feel for your brushes.

Not sure anyone has mentioned books yet anywhere but there are some good ones out there particularly the Martyn Welch book

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Art-Weathering-Martyn-Welch/dp/1874103119/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1372884331&sr=1-1&keywords=the+art+of+weathering

 

Not got this but apparently good  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Done-Day-Weathering-Railroaders-How-/dp/0890247625/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1372884829&sr=1-1&keywords=done+in+a+day

 

HTH

 

Stu

 

 

 

 

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Good morning

 

try out your techniques using old/ rubbish stock which you aren't afraid to strip back to paint or plastic.

 

In N gauge you don't need a lot of weathering - it obliterates the detail if you are not too careful.

 

Try different weathering powders - again try it on something you are less likely to be worried about ( some old Grafar wagons or coaches from a swap meet or out of a sale bin in a railway shop are ideal) or use a sheet of plasticard to get use to the techniques you are trying to use.

 

Most of all - don't give up BUT do look at good quality colour photos of the items you are weathering - if you need any help - PM me for more info

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