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DDolfelin
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When taking off from rest, everything's fine until the revs reach about 2000rpm. At that point, the drive starts slipping, the revs go up, but the rate of progress increases only slowly. It's a bit like having a CVT with loose bands. If I press on a bit more, then let go of the accelerator, the drive catches on again and progress is much sharper.

 

If, at high speed, I give it a bit of poke, the slipping starts again.

 

 

My Rover 214 (manual) had similar symptoms.  It was the gearbox output shaft oil seal, caused by a duff output shaft bearing allowing movement of the shaft up and down, thus trashing the seal.  The resulting oil leak allowed oil to contaminate the clutch.....

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Get the oil in..until it's on the low mark..then run the engine...when hte level drops, top it up again to teh low mark...then drive it, & dip the gearbox when hot...if below the low mark, bring it back to that mark........not too good to overfill an auto box.....

Possibly  the torque converter slipping......not enough oil in it? 

 

If a seal has blown, a lot of oil would be on the ground by now....

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Get the oil in..until it's on the low mark..then run the engine...when hte level drops, top it up again to teh low mark...then drive it, & dip the gearbox when hot...if below the low mark, bring it back to that mark........not too good to overfill an auto box.....

Possibly  the torque converter slipping......not enough oil in it? 

 

If a seal has blown, a lot of oil would be on the ground by now....

I hope it's not borked. I'll go and buy some more Dexron during the week, and mix it with the Lucas fluid.

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Sounds to me like slipping brake bands.

 

I would recommend getting the box out, check the seals and retorque the brake bands.

 

Either they are too loose or the fluid pressure too low to operate them properly

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Sounds to me like slipping brake bands.

 

I would recommend getting the box out, ....

I really hope it's not going to require a box out job. Apart from the recent starting problem (now fixed at a cost of, er, nowt), the CX had been running really well...

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Do you know the capacity of the transmission?

I think the torque converter has been drained..??

 

Whilst I know there is little by the way of like-for-like comparison...my Mustang has a Ford C4 autobox......a very commonplace,,and reliable piece of kit.

Just checked an online service thread....the C4 , plus torque converter, need 8 US quarts of appropriate fluid.

That's approximately 7 1/2 litres!

Just retrieved the official workshop manual (not HBOL) and it's 6.5 litres!!

 

You do know the procedure for filling, checking, & topping up, obviously......I'd bring the fluid back up to the 'add' mark, once hot....might need more than one would think....especially as the torque converter,and the final drive space, need filling as well.

 

Is there facility for adjusting hte brake bands on the gears?  Edttedted

I've got home early as we lost all our e-mail facility in the office today, and couldn't do any meaningful work.

 

Doing the 1-minute dipstick test (that's running the engine for a minute, then checking twice for the level) shows it's right down at the minimum mark:

 

post-6879-0-40380900-1523897431_thumb.jpeg

 

It looks like I'm going to be buying a lot more Dexron III.

 

There appears to be no facility for adjusting brake bands whilst the gearbox is in the car.

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There appears to be no facility for adjusting brake bands whilst the gearbox is in the car.

 

Standard Citroen design philosophy, much like Bulleid pacific in that respect.  i.e. if it's everyday topping up and keeping things running it's simple (in most cases) but if it is what they consider something which should rarely happen or only needs doing with a few tens of thousand of kms on the clock then it will require removal of various components in order to carry out the job.  

 

One thing I loved on the GS was the sheer simplicity of renewing the pads on the front brake discs - inboard mounted discs beautifully accessible and a dead simple job.  But best to keep an old pickaxe head (or similar strong piece of metal to use as a lever) handy as the pistons had a habit of trying to close up once you had the pads out and they took a bit of effort to get them to retract into the cylinders.  But taking out spark plugs was 'difficult'

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Standard Citroen design philosophy, much like Bulleid pacific in that respect.  i.e. if it's everyday topping up and keeping things running it's simple (in most cases) but if it is what they consider something which should rarely happen or only needs doing with a few tens of thousand of kms on the clock then it will require removal of various components in order to carry out the job.  

 

..... taking out spark plugs was 'difficult'

Citroën seems to have evolved in the spark plug accessibility department, as the CX plug covers stare at you the minute you lift the bonnet lid.

 

It looks like I need another 2 to 2.5 litres of Dexron III going down that tiny filler hole to have any impact. I've just had someone with very long experience of CXs confirm that the current level is way too low for practical driving.

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Hopefully this doesn't sound daft but do the bands tighten by moving it between gears with the engine off?

That's how it worked on a DMU

Don't know enough about the insides of a 3HP22 to confirm this. Have been reading about the basic principles of brake bands, though. It's very involved.....

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Its not something I would fancy as it looks to be the work of the devil.

If the oil in the box was low I wonder if the oil in the torque converter is also low?

I think that would make sense, and that is what the CX expert stated. At this rate, I'll be opening an account with Castrol to bulk buy Dexron.

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The box & torque converter must have been pretty dry......I did wonder whether that little plug I noted, on top of the box [see your  diagram?]   was a filler plug? HArd to tell from the drawing...and what about that threaded hole on top of the torque converter housing? {Ought to be near where it joins the engine?] Is that a plug for filling  too?

 

Keep going...keep the faith...these transmissions are very tough, and can take a lot of abuse.  :)

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How much oil have you put in now?

 

If its more than the maximum of the gearbox and torque converter combined then the oil must be going somewhere!

  

 

Not enough!! Need another 2.5 litres! I think the phrase rhymes with "clucking bell".

 

The box & torque converter must have been pretty dry......I did wonder whether that little plug I noted, on top of the box [see your  diagram?]   was a filler plug? HArd to tell from the drawing...and what about that threaded hole on top of the torque converter housing? {Ought to be near where it joins the engine?] Is that a plug for filling  too?

 

Keep going...keep the faith...these transmissions are very tough, and can take a lot of abuse.  :)

There is only one filler hole, and that's the one with the dipstick in it. The only other hole(s) is/are the drain plugs.

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"Keep going Well. Keep going Sh***(Dexron)"

With my DS and my son's SM we've kept the M6 thoroughly well oiled over the years

Gallons of lost hydraulic oil are seeping on down into the substrata - probably why they are so keen on fracking in the NW

Good Luck to you.

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