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For those interested in old cars.


DDolfelin
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Not sure how best to describe this, other than a distinctly Non-Standard:

 

attachicon.gifZStandard1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifZStandard2.jpg

 

Points may be awarded for spotting the railway location where these pictures were taken...

I wonder whats underneath that bodywork, one things for certain it aint standard. I've no objection to this particular 'hot rod' as obviously a lot of work has gone into the restoration of the bodywork and it has not been modified to any great extent.

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Thanks to rugd for including the TVR Grantura photos.

 

As a young teenager in the mid '60's...I recall frequently walking past one parked on the main street of Sutton Coldfield.

 

That one was the V8...and subsequent reviews elicited the apparent fact that, with a V8, they were quite lethal.

 

But I really liked the rear end view of these..in preference to the chopped tail of later models .

 

I wouldn't say 'no' to a Vixen, with  any of the 4 pot Ford engines [including the 1300!!]....after all, I am of the ilk who thinks, it ain't size that matters, but what you do with it. So many [young?] drivers these days don't really know how to get the best out of a tiny engine!

 

At least with those earlier TVR's, the centre tunnel was so wide, one didn't have to constantly  sniff one's passenger's armpits. Not having much actual experience of driving them, I don't know how claustrophobic the enclosed cockpit might have proved?

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On the way to Stoneleigh for the Restoration Show this morning...

post-7638-0-84189400-1477233851.jpg

 

At the show... I say, diiiing dooong, poor me a gin and tonic while I deliver a box of Cadburys Milk Tray...

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Always been partial to sportscars with hardtops...

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post-7638-0-39703900-1477233985.jpg

 

Bellisimmo...

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Very late Series 2 Daimler Sov...

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Just done a successful mod to my old van which maybe of interest to others

I've fitted a pair of relays to the headlights.

With the original system the voltage at the lights was 11.9 and at the battery 14.7 so comparatively the difference is quite a high percentage.

There is a relay each or the main and dipped beam and along with some high performance bulbs and a hell grille temporarily fitted for the winter the lights are now pretty good.

Normally when driving a train at night then getting in a car the improvement of the cars lights is vast. Last week I had the opposite getting off a 68 with awesome lighting and into my van with about three candle power!

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The only downside I can see Russ, is that you may well be going through headlight bulbs a bit quicker (as you are effectively running them at 14% higher voltage).

 

I must say mind, that upgrading from sealed beam to halogens is the best mod to night driving on a minor (other than fitting a alternator...)

 

Andy G

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Ho ho,

 

I recall melting the switch on my Maxi HL   It was still only a couple of years old and fitted with its original sealed beam units. I think the same switch operated indicators, horn and dipped beam .  In those days it was an expensive repair.

....runs the risk of melting the switch...

Ray

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I've just been looking on eBay and you can actually buy a kit for what I've done but less than £9 from Hong Kong so I've ordered one for when I get my maestro EFi back on the road.

Has anyone had any experience with the new LED bulbs that are now available?

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...Has anyone had any experience with the new LED bulbs that are now available?

The technology is still not yet good enough to take the place of main and dipped beams, but there are very capable Cree LED-based bulbs that are suitable for use as brake, tail, indicator and reverse lights.

 

Changing over to LED tail clusters was the first thing I did with the Bora TDi, and I use them in the front indicators and side repeaters as well. Never had a failure since.

 

post-6879-0-80780200-1477323905_thumb.jpg

Edited by Horsetan
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We replaceed the front indicators on the Mini with LED ones, as they were much cheaper & easier to find than 'genuine' Clubbie ones. They may not appeal to those who want to keep their classics original though as they definitely have a different look to them. But as ours is a competition car it makes no odds.

 

Keith

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Did the flasher unit still work?

On our indicators? Yes...(the units were straight replacements, plug the wiring in & screw them on. Unfortunately don't know where they were sourced from as they came with the car)

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Did the flasher unit still work?

The Bora TDi doesn't have a flasher unit as such, but rather an amalgamation with the hazards. I had to modify the PCB so that the current-sensing fault circuit wouldn't trigger when LED flasher bulbs were fitted.

 

Older cars have flasher relays, and there are now plenty of LED-compatible replacements for them. Bear in mind that most of these are silent in operation, so you don't get the traditional ticking sounds.

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Just done a successful mod to my old van which maybe of interest to others

I've fitted a pair of relays to the headlights.

Definitely interesting.  When I get round to reinstating the nose end of the 205 I intend to do this as the column stalk is (i) taking all the current and (ii) living on borrowed time, prone to burning out.  I've not yet figured out how or where to physically install the required relay(s) though.

 

 

Is dim dip side lights a testable part of the MoT test?

As to make the relay system work I've isolated it, sidelights still work with their own bulbs

I don't think the dim-dip is required.  As best I can tell, the idea was that the sidelight bulb is backed up (when the ignition is on) by low illumination of the dipped beam - something most modern vehicles don't do.  

 

Again that short lived system is fitted to the 205 and a great lump of a resistor often dangles about behind the front panel having broken free of its mountings... folks usually seem to remove them nowadays.  

 

A quick look at some MOT guidance on the web suggests it's not required in and of itself, but where fitted MOT man must check the sidelights illuminate correctly with ignition off (ie system isn't masking a broken sidelight). 

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_110.htm

 

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