my kitbuilding efforts, BEV upgrade

[cheesysmith]

I`m going to leave the windscreen for the mo, and see what it`s looks like when a bit of paint and se flushglasing. I`m also using the Hornby 50 jumpers obtained as spares for the mu and eth cables.

[MJI]

Pantograph

 

http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/judithedge/kit/417

[cheesysmith]

Only any good for early years. I'm going to use the Hornby B&W high speed pan for mine. It may not be the best but it is available.

[TexChem]

IMG_00231.JPG

 

IMG_00241.JPG

 

IMG_00251.JPG

 

IMG_00261.JPG

 

I need feedback as to which of the above best represents used engineers green?

 

ps, I know there is a buffer missing.

May I know what colors you tried? I am trying to find the right color too,

[cheesysmith]

I used tamiya olive drab 2, code ts-28 on em. I then used model mates weathering dyes spray of soot black over the top when dry, removing most of the black with a cotton bud afterwards. My theory being that they were never clean anyway and it did slightly darken the colour I was after.

[TexChem]

Thanks a bunch, appreciate the information.

[cheesysmith]

This is the state of play with my detailed and re-motored lima 87.

 

What I have done so far is- Replace the handrails on the cab ends with 0.5mm piano wire, replace the RCH cables with 0.4mm brass wire, fit sprung buffers from the Hornby 56, fitted a Hornby B&W pantograph, bogie side frames from the Hornby 90, as these are longer than the undersized lima ones, fit the gear towers and motor from a Heljan hymek to give all wheel drive.

 

The under frames are just the lima moldings opened out with a drill and files, and some relief behind provided with bits of plasticard.

 

Still left to do- Adding the MU jumper to the front, for which I have some Hornby class 50 spares SOMEWHERE, a coupling, undecided if to use Hornby`s scale good looking one or the smiths oversized but easier to use version, and ETH and brake pipes, also awaiting delivery of some SE flush glasing.

[cheesysmith]

My latest effort is a Bachmann macaw c to a BCV. I got one and comparing to the drawing in the BR wagons vol1, it matches the BCV except for the GW brake levers and the bogies (did the GW ever use diamond frame bogies that the model was originally fitted with?).

 

I just changed the bogies for Cambrian ones, the buffers from Dave F, and smiths hooks and ambis instantiers. The brake levers came off of a BDA I had left over.

 

All that it requires now are paint and letters. Opinions anyone?

 

 

 

 

[cheesysmith]

This is the state of my lima 87. It is now finished, well almost. I just need to find my other pack(s) of class 50 jumper cables for the other end. If anybody wants to do one yourself, this is the list of the parts used.

 

Hornby class 90 trailing bogie for the side frames x2.

Hornby class 50 jumper cable and ETH cable x2.

Gears and motor from a Heljan chassis (any will do).

Bogie tower sprue for the hymek from howes x2.

Hornby class 08 pipes detail pack for air brake pipes x2.

Smiths screw coupling.

Hornby B&W pantograph.

Some plastic section for mounting the bogie supports and side frames.

0.5mm piano wire for handrails and 0.4mm brass wire for cables.

Hornby class 56 round buffer, sprung.

Wipes are single arm spares from Heljan for the class 27.

Glass is the SE flushglase.

Edited April 29, 2015 by cheesysmith

[Adam]

My latest effort is a Bachmann macaw c to a BCV. I got one and comparing to the drawing in the BR wagons vol 1, it matches the BCV except for the GW brake levers and the bogies (did the GW ever use diamond frame bogies that the model was originally fitted with?).

 

I just changed the bogies for Cambrian ones, the buffers from Dave F, and smiths hooks and Ambis instanters. The brake levers came off of a BDA I had left over.

 

All that it requires now are paint and letters. Opinions anyone?

 

Does it have vac' cylinders? Otherwise that looks a nice, reasonably straightforward conversion. I suppose that the bolsters should be different as well, but it depends ho far you want to go. I am not aware of any GW-built bolsters with diamond frame bogies (other than converted Rectanks or Warflats) but have been wrong before...

 

Adam 

[cheesysmith]

I have fitted vac cylinders, and a v hanger next to it. Looking at photos, the wagon had a pair of v hangers for the handbrake lever, and a second pair for the vac cylinder, at each end. These were offset, so I cheated and only fitted a single v that would have been seen at the outer edge.

[Adam]

I have fitted vac cylinders, and a v hanger next to it. Looking at photos, the wagon had a pair of v hangers for the handbrake lever, and a second pair for the vac cylinder, at each end. These were offset, so I cheated and only fitted a single v that would have been seen at the outer edge.

 

Ah, good - I couldn't quite tell from the angle of the photo! Yes, the arrangement of vee hangers is tricky, isn't it?

 

Adam

[cheesysmith]

My latest bit of modelling today. I have a Hornby OAA and looking at the drawing in the history of BR wagons, vol 1, the body of it is a good representation of what it is supposed to be, just let down by a poor underframe.

 

So. I took the underframe off, and junked it. Using the body, I fitted the spare solebars that come with the Cambrian SPA, fitted some bill Bedford sprung W irons, the springs came from the same Cambrian spares from the SPA, the roller bearing axleboxes from my spares (IIRC from the chivers MDV), the brake levers and V hangers from a parkside dundas grampus, cut to represent the levers of the OAA, and some bits I had laying about. This fixes the too high ride height, gets rid of the Hornby floating suspension that doesn`t want to go in a straight line. All that's left to do is fit buffers at the correct height, fill in the cut outs in the end that Hornby did to fix the buffers at the correct height due to the original underframe being too high, fit couplings and brake pipes.

 

This would be well within a beginners abilities, maybe with a little practice on some wagon kits beforehand.

 

PS-Does anybody want me to post some pictures of the wagon in progress? I do have another one to do.

 

 

[Fat Controller]

My latest bit of modelling today. I have a Hornby OAA and looking at the drawing in the history of BR wagons, vol 1, the body of it is a good representation of what it is supposed to be, just let down by a poor underframe.

 

So. I took the underframe off, and junked it. Using the body, I fitted the spare solebars that come with the Cambrian SPA, fitted some bill Bedford sprung W irons, the springs came from the same Cambrian spares from the SPA, the roller bearing axleboxes from my spares (IIRC from the chivers MDV), the brake levers and V hangers from a parkside dundas grampus, cut to represent the levers of the OAA, and some bits I had laying about. This fixes the too high ride height, gets rid of the Hornby floating suspension that doesn`t want to go in a straight line. All that's left to do is fit buffers at the correct height, fill in the cut outs in the end that Hornby did to fix the buffers at the correct height due to the original underframe being too high, fit couplings and brake pipes.

 

This would be well within a beginners abilities, maybe with a little practice on some wagon kits beforehand.

 

PS-Does anybody want me to post some pictures of the wagon in progress? I do have another one to do.

Fixing the chassis makes a big difference to these wagons; just don't  do what I did.. I thought some Bachmann disc-braked wheels would look nice.. You know, the ones with the split axles...We wondered why the overload kept tripping out on TWY when I tested them...

You've done a nice job there; the only thing I'd say is that the springs look a bit lightweight. Are they the spare ones from the Cambrian wagons? The OAAs retain their heavier thirteen-leaf ones, unlike the OBAs with their Bruninghaus parabolic ones.

I wonder if anyone does those big yellow circles with 'ABN' on them, which were a feature of these wagons when they were first introduced?

[cheesysmith]

I had to thin the springs in height because I have fitted the roller bearing to the brass bearing cups and to keep a little gap between the springs and roller bearings. This is to allow the BB springing system to work. I normally fit the entire W iron and spring moulding to the BB iron, with the hold in the inside enlarged to allow the movement. With this built just using bits left over, I didn`t have the complete Cambrian W iron to use, so I just used what I had, and the result is the roller bearing grey plastic bit actually move up & down with the axle.

 

Even with this bodge, it still looks miles better than the Hornby original.

[Waveydavey]

My latest effort is a Bachmann macaw c to a BCV. I got one and comparing to the drawing in the BR wagons vol1, it matches the BCV except for the GW brake levers and the bogies (did the GW ever use diamond frame bogies that the model was originally fitted with?).

 

I just changed the bogies for Cambrian ones, the buffers from Dave F, and smiths hooks and ambis instantiers. The brake levers came off of a BDA I had left over.

 

All that it requires now are paint and letters. Opinions anyone?

The bolsters on vac braked bogie bolster Cs are completely different to the ones on the model. They are however ok for earlier unfitted BR builds. The later pattern of bolster are fairly easy to model using some Evergreen I section strip topped with another bit of rectangular section strip. If it's not clear from the diagram in BR Wagons I can dig out the dimensions I used on mine. I think I got them from an article on bogie bolster E wagons in an old Model Railway Constructor.

[cheesysmith]

If you can provide me with some ideas for a way to easliy improve any of these things I have been doing, please feel free to add/post anything.

 

Most of what I have been doing so far is actually very simple, and well within any beginners abilities with a little practice. I have been posting these ideas and models I have made in the hopes of encouraging other to have a go themselves. Anything ANYBODY can add, feel free to do so. Any comments/ideas/criticisms (even those of it sucks) gratefully received.

 

I have been making my models so far with sturdy ness in mind, as not having a layout for them at the moment means they have to be able to survive storage, with all the unintended knocks and bumps that entails.

 

And if anybody reads this(someone must be, nearly 7k views as of typing) is encouraged to have a go, or copy anything I have done, and needs any pointers to what I have done, feel free to post and if I can I will help.

[cheesysmith]

Having bits left over, I decided to do something with them. In the photo you will see a parkside 12t van fitted with a red panda clasp underframe. The 13t open uses the LMS type j hanger under frame that comes as a alternate under frame for the 12t van. this was fitted under the parkside body to make the earlier version of the open wagon. I there fore had some standard 10ft underframes left over, so to these I fitted these to Dapol 16t bodies, with the top hatch cut off and replaced with some microstrip to make the minerals that BR built on redundant palbrick underframes circa 1978. I have also some fitted with the red panda clasp under frame and some have had the axle boxes replaced with roller bearings.

 

PS-I must remember to order some more vac hoses when I get paid from dave f.

[cheesysmith]

I have whilst building my wagon kits, have been cross kitting between different kits to provide variation.

 

Photo 1 and 2 are of different versions of the 13ton wooden open wagon. There is 2 standard BR/RCH brakes, a LMS clasp brake and a SR (shock) braked version.

 

Photo 3 is of 2 different versions of the SPV plate wagon. They have different brake levers and one has roller bearings and the other has oil axle boxes.

 

In photo 4 we have a LNER brakes 13ton steel open and a BR/RCH version.

 

Photo 5 is of 2 unrebuilt 16ton minerals, one vac fitted and re-plated and the other unfitted and as built.

 

Photo 6 is of a pair of unfitted wagons, a rebuilt 16tonner and a as built 24.5ton wagon.

 

Photo 7 is of a as built MDV 21 ton mineral, and a unbraked rebuilt double door 21ton wagon on a hopper under frame.

 

Photo 8 is of another pair, this time a double door rebuild with LNER hopper brakes, and a single door rebuild.

 

Then we have a coke hopper in photo 9.

 

Photos 10 to 12 are of the 12 van, with plywood side/doors, plywood doors/wooden sides, vanwide, pallet wagon, and variations between clasp brakes and pushrod brakes.

 

Photos 13 to 15 are of my 4 plate wagons with a pipe wagon and a low on the rear.

 

Photo 16 to 20 are of a OBA, converted Hornby OAA, a OCA and a SPA being pushed by another 08.

 

Photo 21 is of the 08 with a 10ft 16ton mineral, pushrod vac braked.

 

Photo 22 is of a vac clasp braked 10ft 16ton mineral with roller brearings, and a 13ton wooden open LMS under framed wagon.

 

Photo 23 is of a 10ft 16ton vac clasp braked mineral with oil axle box and a rebuild 9ft mineral with a clasp brake vac fitted under frame. 

 

Notice the first 08 has had the sole bar boxes modified to a version that Hornby don`t make yet, and in the later views a certain four legged furry visitor to my test plank. If she knocks any more of my stock onto the floor, it will be a EX visitor.

[birch1]

I have whilst building my wagon kits, have been cross kitting between different kits to provide variation.

 

Photo 1 and 2 are of different versions of the 13ton wooden open wagon. There is 2 standard BR/RCH brakes, a LMS clasp brake and a SR (shock) braked version.

 

Photo 3 is of 2 different versions of the SPV plate wagon. They have different brake levers and one has roller bearings and the other has oil axle boxes.

 

In photo 4 we have a LNER brakes 13ton steel open and a BR/RCH version.

 

Photo 5 is of 2 unrebuilt 16ton minerals, one vac fitted and re-plated and the other unfitted and as built.

 

Photo 6 is of a pair of unfitted wagons, a rebuilt 16tonner and a as built 24.5ton wagon.

 

Photo 7 is of a as built MDV 21 ton mineral, and a unbraked rebuilt double door 21ton wagon on a hopper under frame.

 

Photo 8 is of another pair, this time a double door rebuild with LNER hopper brakes, and a single door rebuild.

 

Then we have a coke hopper in photo 9.

 

Photos 10 to 12 are of the 12 van, with plywood side/doors, plywood doors/wooden sides, vanwide, pallet wagon, and variations between clasp brakes and pushrod brakes.

 

Photos 13 to 15 are of my 4 plate wagons with a pipe wagon and a low on the rear.

 

Photo 16 to 20 are of a OBA, converted Hornby OAA, a OCA and a SPA being pushed by another 08.

 

Photo 21 is of the 08 with a 10ft 16ton mineral, pushrod vac braked.

 

Photo 22 is of a vac clasp braked 10ft 16ton mineral with roller brearings, and a 13ton wooden open LMS under framed wagon.

 

Photo 23 is of a 10ft 16ton vac clasp braked mineral with oil axle box and a rebuild 9ft mineral with a clasp brake vac fitted under frame. 

 

Notice the first 08 has had the sole bar boxes modified to a version that Hornby don`t make yet, and in the later views a certain four legged furry visitor to my test plank. If she knocks any more of my stock onto the floor, it will be a EX visitor.

Very nice Mixing and matching

[cheesysmith]

Forgot to add, all of the above wagons, except for the OAA, have been built from kits. Keeping left over bits or bits from failed kits come in very useful. Also, the number of variations possible in identical wagons is large even without going into variations in buffers fitted.

[cheesysmith]

Having got a cameo cutter for Christmas, I decided to have a play with it whilst on holiday this week. here are some photos of what I`ve build. the base is 20thou plasticard with 1mm square section glued to give a girder side for the underframe. The body is 3 pieces of 20thou laminated together. The nose of each bonnet is 10thou, with a backing piece of 20thou. the hatches and surrounds for the grills on the front are 10thou cutouts. As a first experiment, I would do some bits better next time, especially with regards to the use of the 10thou.

 

 

 

Edited July 29, 2015 by cheesysmith

[cheesysmith]

My latest model is a HUO 24.5 ton hopper wagon. The body is made from 20 thou plasticard cut using my portrait cutter, the chassis is from a parkside 21 ton hopper, and the struts are from plastic section. It is awaiting discharge chutes underneath and inside. Anybody any tips for these bits?

Edited August 19, 2015 by cheesysmith

[cheesysmith]

My latest effort has been to make a OJX high goods ferry wagon from 2 cambrian c6 SR goods wagons. I cut the sides into the sections you see in the picture below, then cemented them together. The floor was from the 2 wagons and the solebars and w irons/springs from a catfish with extra pieces added at the ends to make up the size required. The buffers are heavy duty ones from Lanarkshire models. I still have the ferry hooks from wizard models to add, and the brake levers.

 

 

 

 

 

I`m the first to admit that it isn`t exact. For a start the diagonal straps on the end panels are at the wrong angle, and the springs are wrong for a ferry wagon, but I think it`s close enough.

 

PS-Does anybody have any idea for doing the brake levers and such?

[cheesysmith]

My latest project, reworking a lima 47 for my father. Take one lima 47522-

 

pic1

 

Add a Heljan 47 chassis bought cheaply with mazac rot-

 

pic3

 

Then take 2 pieces of 2mm x 6.4mm plastruct 90769 section. Mark a line along it, and drill 2 holes the distance apart matching the wheelbase. make these holes until the bogie pivots are a loose fit.

 

 

pic2 &7

 

 

Attach these to the chassis, after drilling out a hole to take the bogies, Note that the hole in the chassis for the original lima motor bogie will require enlarging.

 

pic6

 

Make a cradle for the motor, and use the original drive shafts.

 

pic5

 

This is the original body reattached, without any extra bits done. The only things different is cutting away the underframe tank moldings. This now runs better than the old lima model, and has proper scale sized bogies.

 

pic4

 

note-the pictures did not come out in order, so have added notes.