Jump to content
 

A couple of GWR van questions (Diagram Z3 Gunpowder Van/Diagram V36/37 12T Van


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

Evening,

 

A couple of questions concerning GWR gunpowder/box vans

 

I'm in the process of building the excellent Parkside Z2 gunpowder van in 1940's condition. This is a really lovely kit to build. In the instructions it states from 1934 the Z3 Diagram was introduced with Morton brakes. Is it as simple as that or where there changes to body as well?

 

If the Z2 kit is suitable for conversion to a Z3 what would the running numbers have been?

 

Secondly, for the 1940's period the GWR built a number of 12T box vans with plywood bodies to Diagrams V36/37 which look like the planked version Ratio do in kit form.  The reason I ask is if I remove the planking from a Ratio kit to represent the plywood sides would this be correct?

 

During the period of hostilities railway companies built wagons which were unpainted with patches for the wagon numbers/weight and tare etc.  Did the GWR follow a similiar path or were the wagons turned out in grey?

 

If this is the case of unpainted GWR wagons I think it would make an unusual prototype fitting for the period.  Also running numbers would be appreciated too.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Edited by 46444
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I've not heard about unpainted GWR wagons - even post WW2

 

A quick scan of GWR Wagons by Atkins; Beard; Hyde' Tourret

 

Z: Gunpowder vans - no change - although the diagram Z4 was stated as 1939 - RCH self contained buffers and draw gear and Morton brakes... but "straight down" stanchions... there is no mention of a Z3 diagram :-(    Sorry there are no running numbers.....

 

V36/7: There looks to be so many variations: "Plywood panels replaced exterior planking on L1467 in 1944 which gave rise to dia V36 where also a hidden alteration took place.... V36 was vacuum fitted... running numbers 65183/346

 

Hope that helps!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Evening Neil,

 

I've not heard about unpainted GWR wagons - even post WW2

 

... there is no mention of a Z3 diagram :-(    Sorry there are no running numbers.....

 

Thanks for claryfing that. It was just a thought because the other three companies all built or received unpainted wagons.

 

As for the Diagram Z3, have Parkside got their wires crossed?

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Edited by 46444
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

V36/7: There looks to be so many variations: "Plywood panels replaced exterior planking on L1467 in 1944 which gave rise to dia V36 where also a hidden alteration took place.... V36 was vacuum fitted... running numbers 65183/346

 

Thanks once again Neil.

 

I can continue sanding then.  I found an old Ratio van body from years ago and thought it would make a nice project. I'll get a Ratio 10ft RCH chassis to go under it and finish it as a V36.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

...A quick scan of GWR Wagons by Atkins; Beard; Hyde' Tourret

 

Z: Gunpowder vans - no change - although the diagram Z4 was stated as 1939 - RCH self contained buffers and draw gear and Morton brakes... but "straight down" stanchions... there is no mention of a Z3 diagram :-(    Sorry there are no running numbers.....

The 1986 combined edition gives:

Z2: built 1913-26, Nos 79914-28 and 105548-59, GWR self-contained buffers, DCIII brake and "wrap-under" side stanchions

Z3: built 1924, Nos 105490-500, as Z2, but Morton brake

Z4: as Neal's response above, but also Nos 105761-85 and body and underframe 6" longer.

 

For V36 built 1944-7, the say "divers numbers in 65xxx series e.g. 65037/46/183/620".

 

Nick

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Evening Nick,

 

The 1986 combined edition gives:

Z2: built 1913-26, Nos 79914-28 and 105548-59, GWR self-contained buffers, DCIII brake and "wrap-under" side stanchions

Z3: built 1924, Nos 105490-500, as Z2, but Morton brake

Z4: as Neal's response above, but also Nos 105761-85 and body and underframe 6" longer.

 

For V36 built 1944-7, the say "divers numbers in 65xxx series e.g. 65037/46/183/620".

 

Nick

 

 

Great stuff so Parkside were right ;)

 

I might get another one of the Z2 kits and convert it to a Z3 then as a bit of variety.

 

Thanks also for the info on the V36's too.  I've so far sanded one side and started on the end of one using a fibre glass pen.

 

Once I get to totally sanded stage I'll post a blog entry.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

According to Brian Haresnape's  Railway Liveries 1923-1947  the GWR switched to a reddish brown for freight stock in WW2 although open wagons were mostly bare wood with reddish brown patches for markings. Grey came back after the war.

 

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

According to Brian Haresnape's  Railway Liveries 1923-1947  the GWR switched to a reddish brown for freight stock in WW2 although open wagons were mostly bare wood with reddish brown patches for markings. Grey came back after the war.

 

Thats interesting.  I wondered why the GWR were different to other railways at the time. (Say no more!)

 

I guess the reddish brown would have been a bauxite colour in theory then?

 

It does make sense that freight stock would have received a different livery as did most of the locos and passenger stock receiving austerity cost/materials saving measures.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Hi Castle,

 

I have built a model of the related V38 plywood van from the Ratio kit and posted it on my Little Didcot thread if it is of any help or interest:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/51212-little-didcot/page-6

 

Thanks for the link. Very useful. I love the way you mention 'sanding the planks of is not an option'.  Your route is probably better and I may have a try of this if the sanding doesn't work. At the moment it seem to be going ok but slowly. Funnily enough the doors have been the most troublesome area resulting in me sanding them flat.

 

If it turns out successful then I will try using a few coats of Halfords filler primer to smooth things out.  In doing so like you I can restore detail with microstrip and try those Archers rivet transfers.

 

Thanks once again.

 

Mark

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...