Hornblock setting jigs?

[alcazar]

As per title and sub title really?

 

I used to have a set of Perseverance ones when I did Scalefour, but haven't any now.

 

Which ones do people recommend, and where from?

[barrowroad]

As per title and sub title really?

 

I used to have a set of Perseverance ones when I did Scalefour, but haven't any now.

 

Which ones do people recommend, and where from?

 

Hi Alcazar,

 

Have you looked at the Avonside Works Jigs - see www.avonsideworks.com or www.eileensemporium.com

as advertised on Rmweb.

I will declare an interest here as I have an involvment with the product.

 

Regards,

 

Robin

[The Girondin]

As per title and sub title really?

 

I used to have a set of Perseverance ones when I did Scalefour, but haven't any now.

 

Which ones do people recommend, and where from?

 

A 7mm scale equivalent was introduced by London Road Models many years ago, it passed on the FourTrack Models when they took over the LRM 7mm range and then passed on to Meteor Models when FourTrack Models ceased trading.

 

Meteor Models website is at

http://www.meteormodels.com/30123/info.php?p=1&pno=0

 

My involvement, I traded as FourTrack Models, no financial connection now.

[Western Star]

Humm, can I reply as I have no connection with any relevant product?

 

I have the use of a "Master Chassis" jig from Hobby Holidays, see http://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/products.php?cat=32. I like the principle on which this jig works although the actual use of the jig can be a tad tedious when trying to get new rods to fit the alignment pins - this is more a problem with the holes in the rods than with either the jig or the method of use. The jig has been used to set the axleboxes for a six coupled engine where the rods were joined in a prototype fashion and the result was successful.

 

On t'other hand, the jig as supplied had a little sting in the tail. After setting the axleboxes for a GWR Star I found that the centre drivers would sometimes not rotate when the frames, without coupling rods, were pushed along the track. After much close study of the frames I came to the conclusion that the centre axle was above a line between the centres of the front and rear axles - which is exactly what the chassis jig is intended to avoid. Using a 24" steel ruler across three alignment pins in the chassis jig revealed that the pins were not in the same plane... as a consequence of the base not being flat. After discussion with the supplier of the jig I removed the screws which secured the fixed aluminium blocks to the base and then inserted 10thou plastic sheet under the outer two blocks. When the screws were replaced I did not tighten the screws of the centre block. The result is a jig where the three alignment pins are in the same plane and a Star frame where all wheels touch the rail.

 

To his credit, the supplier of the jig offered to replace the jig if I was not satisfied with his suggested rememdy. I have the original jig still and that has been used subsequently for several locos.

 

regards, Graham

[ozzyo]

Humm, can I reply as I have no connection with any relevant product?

 

I have the use of a "Master Chassis" jig from Hobby Holidays, see http://www.hobbyholi...cts.php?cat=32. I like the principle on which this jig works although the actual use of the jig can be a tad tedious when trying to get new rods to fit the alignment pins - this is more a problem with the holes in the rods than with either the jig or the method of use. The jig has been used to set the axleboxes for a six coupled engine where the rods were joined in a prototype fashion and the result was successful.

 

On t'other hand, the jig as supplied had a little sting in the tail. After setting the axleboxes for a GWR Star I found that the centre drivers would sometimes not rotate when the frames, without coupling rods, were pushed along the track. After much close study of the frames I came to the conclusion that the centre axle was above a line between the centres of the front and rear axles - which is exactly what the chassis jig is intended to avoid. Using a 24" steel ruler across three alignment pins in the chassis jig revealed that the pins were not in the same plane... as a consequence of the base not being flat. After discussion with the supplier of the jig I removed the screws which secured the fixed aluminium blocks to the base and then inserted 10thou plastic sheet under the outer two blocks. When the screws were replaced I did not tighten the screws of the centre block. The result is a jig where the three alignment pins are in the same plane and a Star frame where all wheels touch the rail.

 

To his credit, the supplier of the jig offered to replace the jig if I was not satisfied with his suggested rememdy. I have the original jig still and that has been used subsequently for several locos.

 

regards, Graham

 

 

May be a bit late in the day but I would go along with Graham, the Master chassis jig works for me, if you have not bought one yet get the one for the ten coupled locos as you dont know what you will build in the future. If you are getting the rolling road option get it for 33mm track as you can pack it down with some 6BA? washers. No connection just a happy boy.

 

OzzyO.

[craigwelsh]

I'd suggest the Avonside Jig is the better option over the Master Chassis, it has a better model of working IMHO. There are videos on YouTube showing how to build a simple chassis on the Avonside jig.