RMweb Gold 57xx Posted March 26 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26 6 hours ago, MrWolf said: You will find that you need fewer coats of the chocolate brown paint over the top of a dark undercoat as regardless of the type of paint, dark browns don't cover particularly well. Yeah, when I was doing a couple of LMS vans in LMS bauxite, I followed the Phoenix Precision advice to use white undercoat (their site suggests all their paint is formulated for a white undercoat (or I've misread it)). Never again! Coverage was a nightmare, it took about 3 sessions to get something passing muster. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted March 26 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26 (edited) 1 hour ago, 57xx said: Yeah, when I was doing a couple of LMS vans in LMS bauxite, I followed the Phoenix Precision advice to use white undercoat (their site suggests all their paint is formulated for a white undercoat (or I've misread it)). Never again! Coverage was a nightmare, it took about 3 sessions to get something passing muster. What white primer did you use? I have found that the coverage of Precision paint is rather dependent on the primer - not that I've found a good white primer for this; Halfords grey plastic primer and red primer are OK but I've not been so satisfied using Acid 8 etch primer, which is a light grey. In other words, I think the issue may be paint chemistry rather than colour. Edited March 26 by Compound2632 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Battledown Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Interesting, I now use Acid 8 exclusively, sometimes straight from the aerosol can, sometimes via an old badger airbrush, and have had good results with a wide range of colours from my Iwata airbrush - eg LSWR pea green, NSR red lake and GER ultramarine blue, plus vermillion buffer beams & inside frames and tan cab interiors. Brush painted black areas take two, sometimes three thin coats. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted March 26 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26 1 hour ago, Battledown said: Interesting, I now use Acid 8 exclusively, sometimes straight from the aerosol can, sometimes via an old badger airbrush, and have had good results with a wide range of colours from my Iwata airbrush - eg LSWR pea green, NSR red lake and GER ultramarine blue, plus vermillion buffer beams & inside frames and tan cab interiors. Brush painted black areas take two, sometimes three thin coats. I should perhaps clarify that after aerosol primer, I'm always brush painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted March 26 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26 (edited) 8 hours ago, Compound2632 said: What white primer did you use? I have found that the coverage of Precision paint is rather dependent on the primer - not that I've found a good white primer for this; Halfords grey plastic primer and red primer are OK but I've not been so satisfied using Acid 8 etch primer, which is a light grey. In other words, I think the issue may be paint chemistry rather than colour. I used the PP white enamel primer as specced on their site. I used to religiously use Halfords rattle cans but they are not very cost effective and quite wasteful. Coverage of enamel top coats on them was always good. Once my current stock is gone, no more will be bought. This is also one of the reasons for having a play with the Vallejo acrylic primers. Edited March 26 by 57xx Clarity and speeling 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted March 26 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26 16 minutes ago, 57xx said: I used the PP white enamel primer as specced on their site. I used to religiously use halfotds rattle cans but they are not very cost effective and quite wasteful. Coverage on them was always good. Once my current stock is gone, no more will bw bought. I used to use Halfrauds plastic primer but when the local store closed I switched to Hycote grey plastic primer from Amazon (cheaper and larger 400ml can) however I have been experimenting with Stynylrez Airbrush Primer 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted April 23 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23 On 26/03/2024 at 16:19, chuffinghell said: I used to use Halfrauds plastic primer but when the local store closed I switched to Hycote grey plastic primer from Amazon (cheaper and larger 400ml can) however I have been experimenting with Stynylrez Airbrush Primer Thought I'd written a response to this, I remember looking that up after you posted. I suspect it will be similar to the Valejjo one, sounds it from the description. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted April 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23 24 minutes ago, 57xx said: Thought I'd written a response to this, I remember looking that up after you posted. I suspect it will be similar to the Valejjo one, sounds it from the description. Although I like and use Vallejo paints their primer is awful! It just rubs off. The Stynylrez primer does adhere better though 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted April 23 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23 The Fruit D has it's top coat of brown now, I'm pleased with how it has come out. Just need to get all the lowers painted black next and then find my HRMS sheet of transfers 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted May 9 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 9 The Fruit D got a couple of coats of Klear, then when I realised the ends should be black, they got repainted correctly. Then I moved on to putting the lettering on. The GWR roundel just about fits, but is really too large. The small 10T letter fits by virtue of being... small. However when it cam to trying to fit "Fruit. D" on the next plank down I found that only "Fruit." would fit, no room for the "D". I measured the gap available at 7.5mm. The word "Passenger" for the last plank down is 10mm across. Time to toss the HMRS sheet and get some decent transfers! Looks like Railtec will be getting another custom order. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 22 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22 So after getting the roof painted to a nice shade of lead white and lightly weathered per a relatively new van, I'm reading the Bloater thread and ANTB posts about fitting gas pipes. I look at my Fruit D and think hmmm I should really put the pipes on that. Oh look, there' is also no rain strips. Then I'm trying to convince myself I won't notice if they are missing, but too late, OCD kicks in. So I stripped all the paint off (the first time I think I have ever had to do it on a model!), some dilute IPA and a soft toothbrush did the trick nicely. Here's where I've got to, rain strips marked out thanks to Phil's ( @Harlequin) template and the pipe supports fitted. I got in a stock of 0.3mm wire from Nairnshire Modelling (excellent service as always) and will start bending up the pipes. I'll indulge in a bit of trickery and have them finish where they curve around the end of the roof and use separate wire down the end of the van. This should make things easier for painting. Just trying to find a decent pic of the end of a wagon showing where the pipes were supported on the way to the buffer beam. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 8 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 8 Managed a bit of modelling time at the weekend and finished off the Siphon C roof detailing. The rain strips didn't go on quite as easily as I'd imagined. My idea was to fix each strip at the centre point, then once set, curve one end at a time and dab with MEK to set it in place. Every time I did that though, the tension on the microstrip cause it to snap when the MEK softened it. So I tried with a bit thicker strip, the same happened on one, so I then resorted to regular poly cement - a little bit messier but got the job done. Not as curvy as I'd have liked but should pass the 6' test and better than none at all. Next up - respray it and hope I can get the same finish I did previously! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 What size of strip did you use for the rainstrips? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted July 9 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9 11 hours ago, 57xx said: Managed a bit of modelling time at the weekend and finished off the Siphon C roof detailing. The rain strips didn't go on quite as easily as I'd imagined. My idea was to fix each strip at the centre point, then once set, curve one end at a time and dab with MEK to set it in place. Every time I did that though, the tension on the microstrip cause it to snap when the MEK softened it. So I tried with a bit thicker strip, the same happened on one, so I then resorted to regular poly cement - a little bit messier but got the job done. Not as curvy as I'd have liked but should pass the 6' test and better than none at all. Next up - respray it and hope I can get the same finish I did previously! Probably too much solvent. I anchor one end with a tiny dot of superglue, then the other end. Once set, fix the rest with minimal solvent. CJI. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 9 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 9 14 hours ago, Miss Prism said: What size of strip did you use for the rainstrips? I have a bag of assorted sizes of strip. This one was "That looks like it's about right" size. I'll measure up and let you know, Russ. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 9 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 9 I started off trying 10 thou square, ended up using 20thou. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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