Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.

[BG John]

Damn, forgot the next bits to add before priming are the corrugated steel (?) panels that cover what were presumably the clear skylights.

 

rps20170611_221648.jpg

 

What best to use to mimic this? How best to do it without it looking carp??

Kitchen foil embossed using the pattern of the roofing material?

[2ManySpams]

Kitchen foil embossed using the pattern of the roofing material?

I've been thinking the same thing but one downside I can see is trying to get paint on the foil? Will standard Halfords do it?? OK, just thought of another issue - is the foil too thin for the edges to stay raised up like in the photo. Normally foil tears or goes flat by just looking at it. Something slightly thicker?

[Stubby47]

Use two pieces of wet paper, pressed between two pieces of Wills corrugated sheets. Let the paper dry and it should retain the wavy profile.

[2ManySpams]

Use two pieces of wet paper, pressed between two pieces of Wills corrugated sheets. Let the paper dry and it should retain the wavy profile.

I'll give that a go and see how it's set in the morning once dry.

 

[N15class]

I always put a smiley face and a coin in the mortar on the gable. Metalsmiths do or did very thin steel corrugated sheets.

[2ManySpams]

I always put a smiley face and a coin in the mortar on the gable. Metalsmiths do or did very thin steel corrugated sheets.

There's a few metal products which would be ideal Pete but all seem to be out of stock and have been for some time.

[raymw]

 

Something slightly thicker?

buy a couple of steak pies, and throw them away, but use the foil!. Put the foil through the dishwasher with your dishes - it'll take off the shine. Paint should stick to it, if needed, but it looks like galvanised steel anyway, just weather it.

Edited June 11, 2017 by raymw

[wagonbasher]

buy a couple of steak pies, and throw them away, but use the foil!. Put the foil through the dishwasher with your dishes - it'll take off the shine. Paint should stick to it, if needed, but it looks like galvanised steel anyway, just weather it.

 

You could try the self adhesive aluminium tape.. It's thicker than kitchen foil and self adhesive. You would have to work from one side to the other doing a valley then a ridge then a valley and so on. You would need to work out how long to pre cut it.. Maybe run a slither across the roof first as you would the bigger sheet cut to size and then peel it off to see how long it is.

 

Remember to use special metals primer before you paint it.

 

PM your address and I will put some in the post

 

Andy

[Simond]

The steak pie route has something to commend it....

[Stubby47]

I'll give that a go and see how it's set in the morning once dry.

rps20170611_232502.jpg

You could dampen one piece of paper with stick glue ( Pritt Stick), to help the laminations retain their shape.

[MikeHemmings]

Something like the inside of corrugated cardboard it's made in different sizes.

 

Mike

[Chris-GNR]

Damn, forgot the next bits to add before priming are the corrugated steel (?) panels that cover what were presumably the clear skylights.

 

rps20170611_221648.jpg

 

What best to use to mimic this? How best to do it without it looking carp??

 

 

Evening Chris

 

How about those foil tubes that tomato puree comes in? It should have the right sort of thickness & resistance you want for keeping its shape but you may have the same issues regards painting as with kitchen foil.

 

Cheers

Chris

[Donw]

I've been thinking the same thing but one downside I can see is trying to get paint on the foil? Will standard Halfords do it?? OK, just thought of another issue - is the foil too thin for the edges to stay raised up like in the photo. Normally foil tears or goes flat by just looking at it. Something slightly thicker?

 not kitchen foil but a flat piece from a Chinese takeaway container ( other nationality takeaways are available) it is a bit thicker .

 

The ridges are asbestos formed in a mold. I like what you have done.

 

Don

 

edit PS the original with the sheets on looks carp anyway

Edited June 12, 2017 by Donw

[2ManySpams]

Experimented with a few ideas over the week...

 

Had pie one evening for tea and cut out a bit of the thicker foil base. Initially promising but it didn't really enjoy being pressed into a corrugated pattern.

 

Tried the thinner kitchen foil. Good for taking the shape but rubbish for keeping the shape, even removing it from the mould was tricky.

 

Looked at various card corrugations but didn't find anything around the house suitable and I couldn't get the outer flat card layer off cleanly.

 

Tried Stu's wet paper idea. Got this result:

 

 

Promising results which I will use on another project but in the end I settled for thinning down a sheet of Slater's corrugated plasticard. Took a while but easy to fix to the roof, takes paint and holds bends.

 

 

[2ManySpams]

Nice weather this morning, warm, dry and little breeze...so out with primer.

 

 

 

Close up on the roof, some finishing work to do until I'm happy...

 

 

Right, going to make the most of the nice weather and leave the building to dry. Pub!

[2ManySpams]

Next! Making a start on the corrugated goods shed at the rear of the yard. Why? Because that will finalise the line of the siding at the rear.

 

 

It will be based on a slightly shorter version of the one at Bodmin North but the same style.

 

 

Using the dimensions included in the book I bought about southern concrete a few months back.

 

 

Most of the work so far is on the underside. Forms a nice rigid box on which to build.

[gwrrob]

You've earned yourself a cold beer young man.

[2ManySpams]

And in between other things this evening I've completed adding the internal skin to the top half, plus cut holes in the end for the vents. 

 

 

Floor planking units scribed, think I'll model the doors open as per most of the pictures I have of Bodmin North.

 

[N15class]

And in between other things this evening I've completed adding the internal skin to the top half, plus cut holes in the end for the vents. 

 

rps20170618_231558.jpg

 

Floor planking units scribed, think I'll model the doors open as per most of the pictures I have of Bodmin North.

 

rps20170618_231623.jpg

Watching this one with interest. Unusual to see the floor planks length wise. Are they the length of a section?

[2ManySpams]

Hi Pete, floor plank units are concrete and 6'6" long. They span between the floor joists which are parallel to the ends and are at 6'6" centres. Lots of detailed info in the Southern concrete book I bought. This goods shed is a corrugated steel clad variant of the ubiquitous concrete panel building.

[Donw]

It is usual to have joists running across the shortest dimension. So often you will find the floorboards run along the larger dimension in rooms. The principal would be the same using concrete.

The building is coming along nicely.

 

Don

[2ManySpams]

Thanks Don. Even this relatively modest building is big on the workbench. It's a scale 39'6" long, so almost a real 1' long. I think the real building was closer to 60'.

 

With my sidings being shorter than the real Bodmin North I can't fit in all the buildings true size, so I had two choices for this cluster of buildings:

1. Model one of them full length and leave out the other.

2. Reduce the length of the buildings and include representations of both.

 

I've gone for the latter, which is the same approach used on Diesels in the Duchy. Nobody really noticed that the rear buildings were less than 2/3 their scale length (or a mirror image, or in the wrong place) which has led me to believe it's more important to have the right number of buildings in a group to achieve the right 'look' than absolute fidelity.

 

This is a good job otherwise I would have to do some serious interior house remodelling to triple the length of the train room  ; -p

[Donw]

Thanks Don. Even this relatively modest building is big on the workbench. It's a scale 39'6" long, so almost a real 1' long. I think the real building was closer to 60'.

 

With my sidings being shorter than the real Bodmin North I can't fit in all the buildings true size, so I had two choices for this cluster of buildings:

1. Model one of them full length and leave out the other.

2. Reduce the length of the buildings and include representations of both.

 

I've gone for the latter, which is the same approach used on Diesels in the Duchy. Nobody really noticed that the rear buildings were less than 2/3 their scale length (or a mirror image, or in the wrong place) which has led me to believe it's more important to have the right number of buildings in a group to achieve the right 'look' than absolute fidelity.

 

This is a good job otherwise I would have to do some serious interior house remodelling to triple the length of the train room  ; -p

 

I am with you on this it is a sort of distillation. Keeping the key elements but concentrated into a smaller area maximises the interest.

 

Don

[Simond]

I agree, indeed, I hit the "agree" button, but there is something about the spaciousness of railways that can be lost, if too much is included in too small a space.

 

I think Chris' approach is the right one here, shorten the buildings, keep both. But do preserve the empty space too!

 

Best

Simon

[2ManySpams]

I've braved the heat in the train room for a couple of hours tonight and have had a play with the cladding on the new building.

 

I started by trying a few things out on the building rear. It will probably never be seen but I didn't want a blank wall just in case I ever want to poke a camera around there. 

 

 

Satisfied I had the sizes and thicknesses about right I moved on to the front but with a few alterations. The black verticals cut a tad longer and the corrugated panels cut into 3no 7'9" x 2' panels. Fixing bolt heads pushed out from the rear before fixing.

 

 

 

That was enough heat for tonight!