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A Nod To Brent - a friendly thread, filled with frivolity, cream teas and pasties. Longing for the happy days in the South Hams 1947.


gwrrob
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15 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

 

Here's a couple of mine.....

 

 

20230208_193514-01.jpeg.b1c604c0cf1f615d43b9aba30d3d22e8.jpeg

 

 

20230208_194228-01.jpeg.105fc46107e3d9d6f4a0d05ce1e6b43e.jpeg

 

They are rather tidy. 

 

Rob. 

 

Looking forward to seeing the weathering after you’ve had your hooves on it Rob.

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10 minutes ago, gwrrob said:

 

Looking forward to seeing the weathering after you’ve had your hooves on it Rob.

 

 

Thanks Rob. 

 

The white rooves are obviously in for a damn good thrashing but I need to give this a bit of thought as they will need to cover a couple of periods with potentially less wear and tear at different periods of their lives. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

 

Here's a couple of mine.....

 

 

20230208_193514-01.jpeg.b1c604c0cf1f615d43b9aba30d3d22e8.jpeg

 

 

20230208_194228-01.jpeg.105fc46107e3d9d6f4a0d05ce1e6b43e.jpeg

 

They are rather tidy. 

 

Rob. 

You’ve got me drooling over your 517 class !  Is it from a Blacksmith kit ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Limpley Stoker
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7 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

 

Mine are en-route, but here's one of the Gunpowder van that should be basically similar. Kadee coupler and Gibson wheels on one end for comparison.

 

The screw that holds the NEM mount on is underneath the pocket which can just be flipped out, but bear in mind that it also secures the chassis onto the body.

 

It may be necessary to glue the wagon back together if there isn't room for both the screw and the sprung coupling hook.

 

John

G9.1100148c.jpg

 

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to photograph the wagon. From what I see there the general construction method is very similar to the Oxford Rail GWR Toad. 

 

Once you unscrew the NEM coupling mount on those there is a raised boss with the combined pocket and body mount screw countersunk into it which locates on an internally threaded pillar in the body of the van.

 

On the Oxford, it's a case of cutting away the boss and replacing it with a square of styrene at floor level and then reducing the projection of the pillars in the body. This leaves room behind the buffer beam for the sprung coupling to project.

 

You would then as you say have to glue the van back together (and why not, it's not as though it needs to come apart for maintenance, no more than any plastic kit built model). Or you could possibly drill and countersink your styrene "patch" and use the original method of assembly, but it's probably more trouble than it's worth.

 

That may sound like a lot of work, but it's easier to do than describe especially once the chassis is accessible from both sides and much easier than the majority of RTR chassis where when you consider all the other things that need doing, are simpler to replace.

 

Rob Wolf 

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9 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Don't know if I'll bother as we all love a really Filthy Mogul don't we? Exeter ones were particularly ghastly.

This one looks quite neat and tidy. Perhaps they got grubbier as their end drew near.

260 5356 Exeter Central 31 7 54.jpg

Edited by phil_sutters
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7 hours ago, MrWolf said:

 

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to photograph the wagon. From what I see there the general construction method is very similar to the Oxford Rail GWR Toad. 

 

Once you unscrew the NEM coupling mount on those there is a raised boss with the combined pocket and body mount screw countersunk into it which locates on an internally threaded pillar in the body of the van.

 

On the Oxford, it's a case of cutting away the boss and replacing it with a square of styrene at floor level and then reducing the projection of the pillars in the body. This leaves room behind the buffer beam for the sprung coupling to project.

 

You would then as you say have to glue the van back together (and why not, it's not as though it needs to come apart for maintenance, no more than any plastic kit built model). Or you could possibly drill and countersink your styrene "patch" and use the original method of assembly, but it's probably more trouble than it's worth.

 

That may sound like a lot of work, but it's easier to do than describe especially once the chassis is accessible from both sides and much easier than the majority of RTR chassis where when you consider all the other things that need doing, are simpler to replace.

 

Rob Wolf 

You will be delighted to know that the boss on Rapido wagons, into which the pocket fits, is a separate part that lifts out once the screw is removed!

 

To make room for a sprung 3-link coupling, though, you will need to remove a chassis rib or two.

 

John 

Edited by Dunsignalling
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On 07/02/2023 at 22:14, MrWolf said:

 

 

Would it be too much to ask if there's a picture of the underside?

Not so much for the brake gear, but to see what's involved in fitting sprung three links.

 

 

Fresh out of the parcel. LH end is just with the pocket removed. RH with mount removed.

 

Unfortunately these have rather more "meat" in the underframe than the GPV and will require quite a bit removing to make room for sprung 3-links

 

Nice flat platform for those of us who prefer Whisker Kadees to the NEM kind, though. 

 

John

P1160018cr.jpg

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Thanks, that's very interesting. That flat platform is going to be handy for just about anyone wanting to fit an alternative auto coupling though and I would be pretty confident that it didn't find it's way into the design by accident.

I like the inclusion of the top hat bearings and the wheels are ideal for most if not all  types of 00 track. I'd have to paint them or wear my ray bans.

Metal buffers too. If it wasn't for enjoying building painting and weathering kits, I think that a fleet of these would be just the job!

 

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5 minutes ago, gwrrob said:

I’m a nosy b***er and would love to know which is the best selling livery in the mink range .

Whilst it's unknown how many they had to start with, the first one to disappear from Hatton's website seems to have been the BR one in GWR grey with altered markings.

 

I had two on pre-order, that one and the yellow Ferrocrete version.

 

John

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Hello everyone

 

A few pages back, we were discussing the DJM 14xx. I noted that mine ran smoothly on my minimal feedback controllers but when one came back from repair with inadvertent 'full feedback', the 14xx jumped around. All others were fine.

 

Someone on here queried if I was correct about this, but I replied that I couldn't replicate it as my controller had been fixed.

 

As 'an experimental trial', I recently bought a different make of handheld controller with 'full feedback' - a Trax.

 

All locos worked fine - except the 14xx. Switched back to minimum feedback type - all locos still fine as well as 14xx.

 

Brian

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