Jump to content
 

Big jim's (now dismantled) 12 x 6 shed layout


big jim
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

Went back into the shed with a clear head earlier to try and find out why the point motor wasnt working

 

When i powered up all the other accessory decoders worked fine but once i plugged the removable section in they stopped working so i narrowed the problem down to being somewhere on there, i then unscrewed the din plug from the wood and discovered 2 stray strands of wire touching adjacent pins which must have been causing the short as once i moved them and tried the accessory decoder again it threw the points ok so that was all cured!

 

I then went on to setting up the point motor on the first point of the crossover which required the little plastic sliding bar on the point moving back a bit as it was struggling to throw in one direction, as i tried to slide it back it twanged off and the little metal spring thing flew off never to be seen again!

 

Luckily i had a couple of old code 100 points one of which managed to strip down and use the spring out of but that took me a good 1/2 hour to get working properly by the time id messed about getting the new spring in!

 

Next job im planning is possibly renewing the track on the removable section between the new points and baseboard edge as its currently made up of 2 separate pieces of 'filler' track and it would be a lot better as a single length, also somehow i've damaged the track on the main baseboard side too, the solder has come adrift, so i can use it as an opportunity to renew the lot and tidy up the baseboard join area to boot

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

did a bit in the shed earlier, started by removing the damaged track from the joint between the main board and removable section

BA9BE52A-B66F-4845-B14F-559FF9D1B595.jpg

 

as well as the track i removed the pcb board from both the sections

130AED00-8FE0-404E-B33C-1D8B11AB4CC1.jpg

 

E06A7BA3-71CE-42CD-AACD-7C0FD282D42D.jpg

 

i then wired up the new point on the removable section before fitting it up

6B7BA943-F3E5-408B-B8C2-D0DDDAF942C8.jpg

 

0DE98615-A368-4923-9C0A-71164C791B8D.jpg

 

hopefully removing the various bits of filler track i'd used on the removable section after fitting the points and replacing it with continious lengths will make running smoother

 

unfortunatly thats as far as i got today as i needed to go to maplin for a new length of pcb board but i'll carry on tomorrow as i have a day off work

 

im going to use epoxy resin type glue to fix the pcb length to the baseboard edge, solder the track to it again then possibly epoxy the track to the pcb as well for added strength/durability

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

seeing the finished product up here i'm looking and thinking something doesn't look right, i may actually shorten the steel sides of the bridge so they only extend over the 'water' and extend the brick walls 'over land'

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

seeing the finished product up here i'm looking and thinking something doesn't look right, i may actually shorten the steel sides of the bridge so they only extend over the 'water' and extend the brick walls 'over land'

Hi Jim,

 

I agree with you - the steel girder sides seem to extend too far at present.  Am enjoying your thread a lot!

 

Regards....

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jim, I am a tittle concerned with the green of the stripboard and your soldering. Are you using an acid flux? When soldering electrical connections, you must use a resin flux preferably a cored solder. Otherwise the acid will ruin the wiring over time. I like everything else I see. David

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

back to it again todaydecided to sort out the bridge as i wasnt happy with it 

 

first up removed the peco girders

24A934B4-E77E-4519-B204-F367898E6B2A.jpg

 

and added stone walls instead

212A3D15-7411-47DB-97A6-5C846D15F47B.jpg

 

while i was in the model shop earlier buying an extra metcalfe retaining wall kit and brick paper i spotted this bridge girder kit which i thought i give a go instead of the peco sides

248E9AA7-3894-4A2B-B796-DB481192D9C5.jpg

 

you basically build the individual panels so you can make a structure to the size you need

4C67B978-8350-453E-BF61-E058D40999BC.jpg

 

you get the top and bottom beams in the kit but i decided to use some plastistrip angle for the bottom and the supplied parts for the top

82F300D4-F5EC-4042-8415-E12619CA3012.jpg

 

fills the space perfectly

AA388BD1-53CC-42A9-93FC-438C9FE90F3A.jpg

 

330A33F1-F001-48D7-BF55-C9934E52EB3B.jpg

 

next up i fitted a column on the opposite side of the high level bridge

68B64A61-7EB7-47F2-9175-3B2495822970.jpg

 

then glued a couple of offcuts together

1F958391-CB9B-42F6-B750-920C1F4D0ADB.jpg

 

covered the other side in brickpaper

DAE6C6A8-C354-4C4C-9A25-7DDEAF351871.jpg

 

and fitted it under the bridge

6DCFEA42-469D-459D-9EB9-631D597CAEC0.jpg

 

then a couple of columns on the other side

6B632A14-6250-4D8A-82E2-2CBAD7F7A762.jpg

 

i really didnt think i'd have the room to fit proper recessed walls on this side, i was going to use brickpaper but i managed to get a couple to fit with no messing

292665DF-221E-4F31-BDF6-65DDB53419A9.jpg

 

i did have to adapt the other ones though

29065F64-1045-4148-95E0-F27D008E06AA.jpg

 

8A6A7DAA-1591-4AD8-A1C1-230E5F850497.jpg

 

BD0434BA-550E-4499-8297-5B45FD00E2CC.jpg

 

and on the other side, when i eventually dot he scenics on the main bit i'll extend the 'stone' into the tunnel mouth 

FD103772-6E02-429F-B738-F9D991AEA44B.jpg

 

its certainly tight with my longest wagons, in real life you wouldnt want to be stood there when a train passed, must invest in a load of limited clearance signs!!

842A02D9-2BBE-4849-AD05-65B0324F825C.jpg

 

but the almost finished product looks a lot better than i thought it would!
4DB5DE3B-D7C5-4F06-97BC-55FB8EE01F9A.jpg

 

going back to the other side again, i added a piece to the bottom of the column so it 'beds' into the riverbank

7D6DBB38-58F7-40D1-B66E-1A4E569DA772.jpg

 

made a similar underbridge for the other side, i'll be refilling the hole in the foam when i begin the scenics

F45A69FE-70D2-4620-8199-7A5AE9AA593B.jpg

 

made up the 2nd bridge girder and loosly fitted it up, you can also see a couple of doors on the bridge side that will be an 'authorised walking route' when i detail up, paint them as steel doors 

559DECBE-81A3-4D4E-95A8-080696C0D04D.jpg

 

E94205B1-3547-471B-A874-112E8A5B8299.jpg

 

that was it, so i though but when i ran the log train round the wagons caught the outer wall as they left the removable section so i ended up moving that away from the track, i have had to add an extra column to the other edge but i'm glad i did as it looks a lot neater and will make the transition between the removable section and fixed layout a bit easier to disguise/model

EF8262F4-4B91-4BCA-AD0A-8A3EF818845A.jpg

 

just need to cover the hole over with card or plasticard, once its all ballasted up it wont be noticable at all

16312285-89D7-41BD-AE79-93CD92E2D117.jpg

 

and most importantly the panel is still removable, i will have to be carefula about the card fading in the sunlight though, both when in storage on the door or in situ on the layout

DCFB929D-AE20-40B8-ACD9-CAEB1CEC5C66.jpg

 

next up i recon i'll have a go at fitting the point motors in the yard as i've had my scenery fix this week and fancy going back to something 'technical', not sure when i'll get in the next though as the kids are back from hols today

Edited by big jim
  • Like 15
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...