RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted June 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 19, 2015 I would have a look on 'that other forum' but I got banned. Cheers Shane There's no posts about it there anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf27 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I believe there is, or at least was,but because of certain empire builders, it's secreted away only for those privileged few to see. Cheers Shane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo C. Cupier Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 @ spet0114 I have a Butler-Henderson going spare, if you still need one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I believe there is, or at least was,but because of certain empire builders, it's secreted away only for those privileged few to see. Cheers Shane I am one of the privileged ones but there is nothing posted on the other site about it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf27 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Yes your right, there isn't anything specific relating to issue 39 yet, which I think is going to be based on the 2-6-2 tank version, I'm sure I read that somewhere, possibly here, before the tiff happened. I retract my comment about content being secreted away, you can view as a guest. Cheers Shane 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Let's hope the Ivatt is not going to be based on Hornby's strange production from the 70s .......... As long as it's not, I'll probably acquire all of the last issues, not that I need any of them! EDIT Poking around on MRRZ, I saw the Ivatt listed as a 2MT 2-6-0! Oh dear, that bodes ill! Edited June 20, 2015 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Meanwhile, I've been doing the plastic fillers for the "Western" - plastic strip, laminated together with solvent, and then carved to shape when hardened: 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uries15 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Hello to all, Talking of GBL diesel jobs!! Yes, its been a while since I was last posting my thread on the RMweb. In my last couple of messages I mentioned the GBL 'Peak' class 44/45 that I have been working on in the background. Well here it is today ,ok its not for the purist or the rivet counter! But I am quite happy with the outcome. I have very limited time to do my modelling now due to work commitments.So this locomotive has been a very long time coming!! Main problem is the 'cut and shut' . Nose Parts salvaged from an old Mainline model, as is the chassis!!. Its a very tight fit on chassis frame. It needed very fine tuning and filling in places. There is also an incredible amount of steel plates and lead weight that give this model traction and grip on the rails. The donor Mainline 'Peak' chassis and a very bad body was bought of 'Ebay' for about £13.00. Chopped off parts were taken off almost straight away.This included roof vents and other fittings around the fan end of locomotive. The Gbl model has these fittings moulded onto their model but they just do not look right.? Had several major problems with this model as it was dropped twice after painting!! All very annoying!!.The main body work is sprayed in Halfords Rover Brooklands Green.This was leftover paint from Gbl 45xx project. You cannot see the damage caused now as the model was stripped twice in affected areas. The main grill area on the diesel sides were originally white throughout.These looked bizarre so I re sprayed these again in Halfords Brookland Green and then got out the trusty bow pen, lining out grill area. The model at present has been sprayed over with matt varnish. This is due to fact that it will be weathered. I have already started this as this procedure. The decals are a mixture of SMS , Pressfix and Modelmaster . Front detailing was out of spares box . All pipe work and couplings are off a spares for class 26. Plus Dart Casting hoses set. The main buffer beams which replaced the incorrect buffer fitting on original model are from 'wagonbasher' parts on ebay. Se Finecast windows are trimmed and fitted, these were an absolute pain to attach to body work. I have placed inside bodywork before refitting some cover panels. There are now also support formers that cover the motor assembly up as the interior could be seen through Finecast windows. Placed in front of one of these formers is a driver figure. Last fittings were Shawplan windscreen wipers just to finish off locomotive. Cost of this project really wasn't that much in the end. Modelmaster transfers to the longest part to arrive and fit. The rest was mainly from the spares box! I have included the before and after shot as these models now look completely different. My converted Gbl model came from Birkenhead and the original one comes from Portsmouth. Big thanks to Brian also for his input into this project. If any body would like some other photos or a file on how this was all put together, please pm me. Thanks Edited June 20, 2015 by Uries15 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) .....Main problem is the 'cut and shut' .....It's always a problem. Diesels are more difficult than steam outline because of the need to match all those arcs and compound curves. The bottom of the Western cab front is being filled in with some styrene U-channel, cut into L-section: Edited June 20, 2015 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uries15 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Hi Horsetan, Fully agree with your comments on 'cut and shut'. I have used wet and dry the very finest to achieve the results and a good snug fit to chassis. You cannot get as the old saying says a 'fag' paper in between bodywork and the donor Mainline chassis. I have got the photos of both Gbl model and the Mainline models with both noses end cut off, in my saved file on this project. Its very difficult to get perfect match where parts have been cut off and reattached . The new nose fronts have been attached with cyno and a heavy duty adhesive. I took photos all the way along on this model as it was useful to see where faults lie before spraying model. I used a very small amount of Humrol filler to banish any other small problems.The weathering of this diesel I hope will cover up some of the minor glitches in the body work curves that I have missed etc.!!I?? Uries15 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 ...You cannot get as the old saying says a 'fag' paper in between bodywork and the donor Mainline chassis..... Hopefully you can actually separate the two for servicing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uries15 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Yes, it can be opened up again with an old broken blade of a swiss army knife! Just the right thickness to slide between body work and chassis.There a four lugs which I have disguised by painting. All four are the original lugs on Mainline chassis, below drivers doors on model. Because I have used cyno and impact adhesive there is some flexibility. Uries15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railroadbill Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Hi Uries15, really excellent Peak! Interested that you used Halfords Rover Brooklands green paint, my favourite too and I think it's a very good likeness to BR green. (I've also used Halfords Vauxhall Burgandy red for BR maroon, in fact just sprayed a Lima Western body with it). My question re your Peak, it has a nice matt finish, so what type/make of varnish did you use? It's come out very well. edit: Just reread your post and you do say you sprayed loco with matt varnish, but it would be nice to know what type. Thanks. Edited June 20, 2015 by railroadbill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uries15 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Hi Railroad bill, Nice to hear from you again. In answer to your question about the Matt Paint. It was Humbrol Matt paint. No airbrush here though!!. Brand new tin straight from my mates model shop. Sprayed approx. foot and a half away on first pass of varnish. Then re spayed it about an hour later, used a turntable(old computer monitor stand) to turn round on second and third pass, this was about a foot away? Got to get this right , in the past some Humbrol Matt has had satin sheen after spraying. Just does not look right. Make sure can has had the best shake you can give it! Uries15 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spet0114 Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 @ spet0114 I have a Butler-Henderson going spare, if you still need one. Hi Theo, Have just sent a PM. Cheers Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railroadbill Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Hi Railroad bill, Nice to hear from you again. In answer to your question about the Matt Paint. It was Humbrol Matt paint. No airbrush here though!!. Brand new tin straight from my mates model shop. Sprayed approx. foot and a half away on first pass of varnish. Then re spayed it about an hour later, used a turntable(old computer monitor stand) to turn round on second and third pass, this was about a foot away? Got to get this right , in the past some Humbrol Matt has had satin sheen after spraying. Just does not look right. Make sure can has had the best shake you can give it! Uries15 Thanks for that, Uries15. Getting a really matt finish has been a modelling target for me going right back to model aircraft kits. More recently I discovered testors Dulcote spray, which does dry very matt and leaves a tough finish as well. I think it's actually a lacquer. Trouble is it's very hard to get now, due to postage/mailing regulations and can't be airfreighted from America anymore so shops don't seem to have it now.. So I've only got a can or so left, and looking for an alternative. Avoiding a sheen is the big thing! ps computer monitor stand is a good wheeze. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Hi Uries15, really excellent Peak! Interested that you used Halfords Rover Brooklands green paint, my favourite too and I think it's a very good likeness to BR green. (I've also used Halfords Vauxhall Burgandy red for BR maroon, in fact just sprayed a Lima Western body with it).... What is the closest car paint shade to golden ochre? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Hi Uries15, really excellent Peak! Interested that you used Halfords Rover Brooklands green paint, my favourite too and I think it's a very good likeness to BR green. (I've also used Halfords Vauxhall Burgandy red for BR maroon, in fact just sprayed a Lima Western body with it). My question re your Peak, it has a nice matt finish, so what type/make of varnish did you use? It's come out very well. edit: Just reread your post and you do say you sprayed loco with matt varnish, but it would be nice to know what type. Thanks. dear both halfords burgundy red...likewise just painted my western...all that's needed now is handrails out of nickel silver to finish brassmasters windows glazed and added....horsetan your head code panel...very nice..as indeed is the rest of your conversion....kevin...like you use humbrol Matt varnish out of actin well shaken. I have found a very...very cheap dark grey primer....it is very good at its primary function....but a very fine mist like spray....a couple of passes over a model from day a couple of feet away...gives to my mind that patina that the steam railway seemed to have.I really enjoy seeing these models being improved. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 But of a qualifier..horsetan my reference to the headcode panel, I have just fitted the brassmasters ones....I didn't on my first rail blue conversion....and if I'm honest wish I hadn't on my new maroon one....this is more my lack of application rather than a comment on the brassmasters etch. This was confirmed on seeing you photo...I gather this area I as as per the original moulding...just the undersized headcode letters and numerals absent.....if original or adapted on your model it looks better than my effort....hey ho... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Lastly for now the car primer I was referring to auto ace grey primer auto spray paint bought for 99 pence at the bespoke shop of that title....no not "car paint ". ....99 pence shop. dudley town centre. I may have got it cheap as Dudley is currently celebrating the recent enoblement of one of its favourite sons.......sadly my name was missed....hopefully rectified in the New Years....I won't let it change me ... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 But of a qualifier..horsetan my reference to the headcode panel, I have just fitted the brassmasters ones....I didn't on my first rail blue conversion....and if I'm honest wish I hadn't on my new maroon one....this is more my lack of application rather than a comment on the brassmasters etch. This was confirmed on seeing you photo...I gather this area I as as per the original moulding...just the undersized headcode letters and numerals absent.....if original or adapted on your model it looks better than my effort....hey ho... The original is some way undersized. I'm now marking out the correct sizes for the roof panels. The one with the fan grilles turns out to be 1mm too long, and this has a knock on effect on the neighbouring panels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 What's due this Wednesday ? Brit15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted June 21, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2015 More recently I discovered testors Dulcote spray, which does dry very matt and leaves a tough finish as well. I think it's actually a lacquer. Trouble is it's very hard to get now, due to postage/mailing regulations and can't be airfreighted from America anymore so shops don't seem to have it now. A Google search on Testors Dullcote, with a UK filter, finds several outlets that can do mail order. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) What's due this Wednesday ? Brit15 The GWR 'County'. ( I already have one (Hornby) so probably will not indulge....) EDIT for spelling (spellchecker missed it too) Edited June 21, 2015 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Ahhh good. - Another Gas Works Railway loco for my scrapyard scene !!! Brit15 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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