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EddieB
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T9 on GBL site in LSWR livery!

 

SWMBO will not be as pleased as I am.....

 

Tri-ang Princess - first unscrew and slide out the motor. The wheels should spin freely. If not a little paint thinners or isopropyl alcohol will cure it and then a few drops of light oil.

 

http://www.hornbyguide.com/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=151

 

EDIT I've been taken to task for advocating thinners so I'll withdraw that advice and only suggest the alcohol IPA or meths though I find the violet colourant tends to leave a deposit. (Alcohol is available in Italy with a pink colourant that seems OK - they also sell almost neat ethyl alcohol.......)

Edited by Il Grifone
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Hi,

If your Princess chassis needs cleaning DONT use ANY form of 'paint thinners'.

Use only an alcohol such as Isopropyl Alcohol or Methylated Spirit.

The use of any form of paint thinners will almost cirtainly cause a very rapid breakdown of the plastic bushes in the insulated wheels - remember the plastic will be getting on for 50 plus years old and will be brittle. In this situation even something like White Spirit WILL destroy the old plastic within minutes.

For the same reasons do not use ANY form of mineral oil such as 3 in 1 types to lubricate the model as these oils contain aromatic hydrocarbons (solvents) that will likewise destroy the old plastic rapidly.

Use a modern 'plastic safe' lubricant such as silicon fluid available from model car shops as 'shock oil'.

Hope thats helpfull.

Regards

 

Point taken, but I've never had any problems. Perhaps I've just been lucky with my thinners (Tesco, but they've changed formula since - pity, because I find it shifts crud better than alcohol). I  would agree about 3 in 1, but despite using it in my (and their) youth on Tri-ang chassis they're still fine. Also avoid WD40!

 

I found this which is only partially useful (polystyrene does not appear)

 

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html

 

And this though I assume their "most plastics" does not include polystyrene

 

http://machinedesign.com/mechanical-drives/lubrication-tips-plastic-gears-and-more

 

I found that nylon used in VCRs and TV tuning gears tended to break up after about 10 years, but whether this was due to the use of poor quality plastic or the white grease that was liberally applied I don't know. Certainly the nylon used by Meccano Ltd for their wheels, insulating bushes and couplings is still sound.

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So which Scottish locos can the T9 be converted to?

HR Big Bens (quite easily)

HR Small Bens (not quite as easy or accurate)

CR Dunallys

And maybe, just maybe G&SWR 4-4-0's too.

 

Shame they have gone for the wrong tender, this now makes it questionable if i will buy any....

 

Andy G

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I've posted some pictures on an ongoing project on a GBL Mallard here

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/89857-modifyingmotorising-gbl-models-k35-d11a4/

 

As it isn't a private thread over on the "Modifying" section, I'd personally be delighted if other modellers chose to use it to "show and tell" what they are doing with these models, as I find it quite hard to keep track on this thread amongst all the other posts. Just a thought...

Edited by rowanj
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HR Big Bens (quite easily)

HR Small Bens (not quite as easy or accurate)

CR Dunallys

And maybe, just maybe G&SWR 4-4-0's too.

 

Shame they have gone for the wrong tender, this now makes it questionable if i will buy any....

 

Andy G

Thank you I will need to have a look at them.
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Be careful with the tenders! The HR locos can run with either the HR version of the watercart or 6 wheeled tender, but I don't think the watercarts lasted into BR days. Both tenders need small changes (like twin tank fillers), and length changes, but are almost there!

 

Search for Ben Alders 'bodging Ben Alder' thread to give you an idea of the work. I'm not sure i have put anything up abount my Big Ben conversions yet (I haven't finished them either!).

 

As for the other types I haven't really got much idea, as I don't intend to model them, sorry!

 

Andy G

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Thank you I will need to have a look at them.

As to the Caley Dunalastairs  the narrow cab T9 lends its self best to the Dunalastair I with the addition of splasher mounted sand boxes or like my picture in post 3151 one of the original Drumond class 66 as rebuilt by McIntosh with Dunalastair boilers, the Dunalastair I ran with 6 wheel tenders of about 3575 gal capacity but when rebuilt the 66 class ran with both 6 wheel and the 8 wheel bogie tenders.

       Dimension wise the Caley 4-4-0 have almost the same size wheels but the 66 class and the Dunalastair I are about 1ft short loco wise which is about 6in (2mm shorter in 00) between the bogie and the front driver and 6in (again 2mm in 00) between the drivers. You would have to decide if you can live with this. The Dunalastair II and III might be better suited to the wide cab T9 so fall out side this thread and the Dunalastair IV is different enough from the others as to make conversion from a T9 impracticable.

          If anyone should consider a Dunalastair III there dimensionally correct to the T9 being slightly longer than the other Dunalastairs

here's a link to fellow forum member Ben Alder as mentioned by Andy (uax6) and his most excellent conversion of a T9 to a Highland small Ben and although its a Hornby T9 its all relevant to the GBL one as well.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/62/entry-6166-bodging-ben-alder/

 

Here's a look at a Dunalastair I In all the conversions one of the major changes would be to shorten the smoke box

post-17847-0-68494800-1414192148_thumb.jpg

Edited by Londontram
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A cautionary tale....admiring my handiwork on my almost completed black 5....nice bits of brass added...almost a shame to paint...give it a run on the layout....nice...wait a minute what is that faint whiff of white smoke coming from its undercarriage..prototypical but not intended..then shorting out. Yes too liberal it seems with flux, onto wheel electric current....burnt out insulation on front driver...off to local model shop in due course to replace same..as for offending wheel now on e bay advertised as non insulated 24 mm driver as seen on GBL thread of RM magazine. T9 not my preferred livery but looks too nice not to have one...that is if any pennies left after the Princess

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My Butler-Henderson arrived a week or so ago. Unfortunately it is damaged. The smoke box door (thanks to Wikipedia for identifying that locomotive part for me  :sungum: ) is detached from the locomotive and rattling round inside the plastic packaging. Should I bother phoning customer "services" to ask for a replacement, or should I have a go at glueing it on myself? (Bear in mind that I'm not a modeller - just a train enthusiast.)

 

By the way, is anyone else still waiting for a copy of issue 2 (the Coronation)?

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My Butler-Henderson arrived a week or so ago. Unfortunately it is damaged. The smoke box door (thanks to Wikipedia for identifying that locomotive part for me  :sungum: ) is detached from the locomotive and rattling round inside the plastic packaging. Should I bother phoning customer "services" to ask for a replacement, or should I have a go at glueing it on myself? (Bear in mind that I'm not a modeller - just a train enthusiast.)

 

By the way, is anyone else still waiting for a copy of issue 2 (the Coronation)?

Just stick it back on. Check it first, on mine the smokebox is slightly misaligned which makes it difficult to fit without a bit of trimming. I haven't tried it yet, but I think taking off the bogie and slackening off the retaining screw in the smokebox will relax things enough to get it done. I'm in the middle of upgrading to Yosemite at the moment, I'll have a try when I'm done and get back to you.

 

 

>edit<

As I thought, the boiler unit has been distorted by the screw holding it to the footplate being overtightened. If you loosen that screw a little the smokebox can be placed properly on the saddle and the smokebox door fits properly. It does need sticking, though. I'm assuming that it was loose because the misaligned smokebox meant that it wouldn't fit squarely. But easily remedied.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited by Smiffy2
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omis

 

...that is if any pennies left after the Princess

 

My problem too! (I wanted at least two of each, but...).

 

To make matters worse*, I've just returned from the toyfair laden with lots of 'bargain' wagons etc.......

 

* better really! :)

Edited by Il Grifone
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Il Grifone same here went to my local model shop for the 24mm driving wheel...just as a box of 14 nicely made up Airfix esso tank wagons had been purchased by the proprietor...offered them to me for silly money....needless to say I can now model the Fawley to Bromford Bridge tanker train....already got a pair of class 33s.....so many models so little funds

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My Butler-Henderson arrived a week or so ago. Unfortunately it is damaged. The smoke box door (thanks to Wikipedia for identifying that locomotive part for me  :sungum: ) is detached from the locomotive and rattling round inside the plastic packaging. Should I bother phoning customer "services" to ask for a replacement, or should I have a go at glueing it on myself? (Bear in mind that I'm not a modeller - just a train enthusiast.)

 

By the way, is anyone else still waiting for a copy of issue 2 (the Coronation)?

 

 

I first saw this series when I bought #5 Stowe on impulse from a shop in York and have picked and chosen models since then, mostly from various WHS stores. I now pre order from a newsagent and placed a back order from #1 Mallard. I received 'Mallard' and two 'Earl Bathurst' within three weeks. The 'Coronation' and two more 'City of Truro' have not turned up yet but are still on back order.

 

There is a lot of Blarney regarding sourcing this series. WHS stores in Brecon, Weston super Mare and Cribbs Causeway seem to carry good stock in a display rack printed for the purpose yet other WHS stores that are normally helpful say they cannot get stock. My local newsagent did not want to know part-works yet an independent newsagent many miles away gets regular deliveries of pre-orders plus a small float on spec. Sainsbury stores seem to have given up possibly due to theft of the models just leaving the card and magazine. I have not seen any in Tesco or Morrisons.

 

This GBL series is 'like it or lump it' so I take a chance and pre order one or two of each as they are released. If, some time later, I do not want certain loco's they will find a home. Better to buy model railway items when they are available new and unused than pay way over the new price for 'like new' or 'ebay new' damaged stock many years later. GWR, Stanier and Gresley loco's can go in the spares box. I would not pay one hundred Pounds for a pre-grouping loco so at 8.99 a pop the GBL static loco's are good enough to look at and I accept them 'as-is'.

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Sorry to go on but what a difference replacing the driver has made to the running qualities of my loco...I suspect the flux had been eating way for a while producing a short...small enough to not register on the control overload but there nonetheless....now feel like gentleman at Swindon must have done when he "tweaked" the draughting of a number of locos. Onward and upwards....

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As to the Caley Dunalastairs  the narrow cab T9 lends its self best to the Dunalastair I with the addition of splasher mounted sand boxes or like my picture in post 3151 one of the original Drumond class 66 as rebuilt by McIntosh with Dunalastair boilers, the Dunalastair I ran with 6 wheel tenders of about 3575 gal capacity but when rebuilt the 66 class ran with both 6 wheel and the 8 wheel bogie tenders.

       Dimension wise the Caley 4-4-0 have almost the same size wheels but the 66 class and the Dunalastair I are about 1ft short loco wise which is about 6in (2mm shorter in 00) between the bogie and the front driver and 6in (again 2mm in 00) between the drivers. You would have to decide if you can live with this. The Dunalastair II and III might be better suited to the wide cab T9 so fall out side this thread and the Dunalastair IV is different enough from the others as to make conversion from a T9 impracticable.

          If anyone should consider a Dunalastair III there dimensionally correct to the T9 being slightly longer than the other Dunalastairs

here's a link to fellow forum member Ben Alder as mentioned by Andy (uax6) and his most excellent conversion of a T9 to a Highland small Ben and although its a Hornby T9 its all relevant to the GBL one as well.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/62/entry-6166-bodging-ben-alder/

 

Here's a look at a Dunalastair I In all the conversions one of the major changes would be to shorten the smoke box

That Ben Alder thread is very interesting, excellent results. Using an 8 wheeled tender I wondered if there was a possibility of stretching the loco into an HR castle but haven't got any drawings to check. With LSWR engines, an early T9 in non superheat condition with or without the strange looking cross boiler water tubes could work, or a C8 the T9 forerunner.  With 8 wheel tenders, S11 Drummond's 6'  4-4-0 could work with boiler set a little higher? D15 looks too chunky. However, smaller boilered E10 "double single"  might well be possible. H'mm. And it only involves cutting up a £8.99 GBL model rather than a £119.99 Hornby T9 (latest price on Hornby web site).

 

Got this from Ian Allen "Locomotives at the Grouping" book so can't scan the pics I'm afraid.

 

Better see if I can get the T9 issue then.

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