RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted July 30, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2013 I am modelling BR(W) - early 1960's era. If I have understood this discussion correctly, the new Wills items are not really appropriate for this time. Are the point rodding rollers from MSE any more appropriate as I have not seen them, and they are not pictured on the website? Any advice gratefully received. The Wills rodding is definitely not correct for WR early 1960s if you look reasonably closely at it. No idea about the MSE rollers, sorry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 ...Are the point rodding rollers from MSE any more appropriate as I have not seen them, and they are not pictured on the website?... By comparison, the MSE castings are very simple and provide a generic representation only. You can see examples here in CK's blog. Fine from "normal viewing distance" but up close I wouldn't like to say what prototype they represent. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2013 By comparison, the MSE castings are very simple and provide a generic representation only. You can see examples here in CK's blog. Fine from "normal viewing distance" but up close I wouldn't like to say what prototype they represent. Nick They aren't massively removed in style from the rollers which the Western used for rodding when crossing under running etc lines - but they are far too thick at the sides even for that pattern. They definitely don't have very much resemblance to normal Western rodding run rollers of any type. At least teh Will ones do have a reasonably good representation of what I call BS (British Standard) rodding run rollers although they are not correct for 1960s WR - but at normal viewing distance they might be considered acceptable possibly (look at my pics earlier in this thread). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP99 Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2013 They aren't massively removed in style from the rollers which the Western used for rodding when crossing under running etc lines - but they are far too thick at the sides even for that pattern. They definitely don't have very much resemblance to normal Western rodding run rollers of any type. At least teh Will ones do have a reasonably good representation of what I call BS (British Standard) rodding run rollers although they are not correct for 1960s WR - but at normal viewing distance they might be considered acceptable possibly (look at my pics earlier in this thread). Thanks to everyone for their comments. When I looked at the MSE picture they looked a bit 'chunky' to me. Subject to further inspection of the Wills items, I think I might go with them. Athough as you say non prototypically correct, a reasonable representation of rodding viewed from a distance has to be better than no rodding, and hopefully they should be fairly simple to construct and install, although perhaps not cheap! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Another option is the Brassmasters parts. A bit fiddly to assemble but perhaps a better generic representation. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP99 Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2013 Another option is the Brassmasters parts. A bit fiddly to assemble but perhaps a better generic representation. Nick Thanks Nick. I did look at these on-line and thought they looked reasonable, but thought they might be a bit fiddly as you suggest. I think the decision I have to make is how much build time I can justify setting aside just for point rodding, so probably some sort of compromise is going to have to be made. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 My one worry over the Wills point rodding is will the small section of plastic in the rodding turn (more?)brittle with age, and how will it affect runs that are under a little tension where they follow round curves ??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2013 I think some plastics can be 'formed' using hot water so if this Wills plastic is suitable it could be shaped, if point rodding was ever shaped; I really don't know the answer to that. I have also no idea about degrading with age. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2013 I think some plastics can be 'formed' using hot water so if this Wills plastic is suitable it could be shaped, if point rodding was ever shaped; I really don't know the answer to that. I have also no idea about degrading with age. P Point rodding runs were taken round gentle curves - alas I don't know what the minimum radius was for channel rodding (or even for round rodding) and the rodding could also be 'shaped' to put an offset in it. But never - from what I've seen - curved for laying in a curve run. As it was galvanised it would last an awful long time and could be re-used if need be - I bought a couple of tones of WR pattern rodding in the 1980s for a preservation project and most of it still had no traces of rust although the galvanising was going 'a bit odd' in one or two places. It was laid into a new run with no problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Grovenor Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2013 Athough as you say non prototypically correct, a reasonable representation of rodding viewed from a distance has to be better than no rodding, and hopefully they should be fairly simple to construct and install, although perhaps not cheap! Not simple to install either IMHO, its really impractical to bend a run with more than one rod in it and keep the A frames in line, I bought one of each type of packet, thought to try them on a small background interlocking with just 3 crossovers, there is enough rodding but not enough cranks, even using the accommodation cranks in lieu of regular ones. Maybe I am hamfisted but I found it very hard to do a neat assembly and after making up the lead out with 5 cranks I came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth the effort and have laid it aside for now. When I get back in the mood I'll try again with my stash of brass bits. Regards Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP99 Posted August 1, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 1, 2013 Not simple to install either IMHO, its really impractical to bend a run with more than one rod in it and keep the A frames in line, I bought one of each type of packet, thought to try them on a small background interlocking with just 3 crossovers, there is enough rodding but not enough cranks, even using the accommodation cranks in lieu of regular ones. Maybe I am hamfisted but I found it very hard to do a neat assembly and after making up the lead out with 5 cranks I came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth the effort and have laid it aside for now. When I get back in the mood I'll try again with my stash of brass bits. Regards Keith Whar sort of radius curve are you trying to bend them round? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted August 1, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2013 I've introduced a gentle bend into the rods - what I did was assemble the necessary number of parallel runs, then trim the ends at a very slight angle before glueing the next set of runs into place. It should only ge a gentle bend at best or it will look wrong. As I said, blog post coming up - just have to get my act together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Only came across this today in Model Jct at Slough and purchased a pack of both sets of the dummy rodding. My friend Graham who helps me with Croxley WRD had mentioned point rodding this week but neither of us were aware of the Wills offering. I intend to fit some point rodding to my Croxley WRD however are there any differences in routing etc when using point rodding with 3rd and 4th rail? Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TheSignalEngineer Posted September 28, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 28, 2013 Just keep them out of contact or the trains will stop running when the rod welds to the juice rail. Seriously, there are a couple of pictures on the Adrian The Rock website taken at Kensal Green Junction IIRC which show rodding on your patch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
autocoach Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 On page 7 of the March 2014 Model Railroader there is a small Peco ad trying to foist this product off on unsuspecting US modelers as a cosmetic "HO Mechanical Interlocking System". The add indicated they were Wills Kits SS89 and SSS90 products but no pricing given. Too much beer in Beer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2014 On page 7 of the March 2014 Model Railroader there is a small Peco ad trying to foist this product off on unsuspecting US modelers as a cosmetic "HO Mechanical Interlocking System". The add indicated they were Wills Kits SS89 and SSS90 products but no pricing given. Too much beer in Beer? I think most US rodding was round as opposed to the channel/rectangular section portrayed by the Wills kit (and in pics the cranks look somewhat larger than the usual British version). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted February 9, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2014 Too much beer in Beer? With a choice of three pubs in a fairly small village there's ample opportunity. And IIRC the Pecorama visitor attraction also sells some in the Pullman car. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I've not seen any pictures of the Wills Rodding kits being used so here's a few pics of my attempt at using this stuff thus far. There's a few more pictures here showing how I went about assembling the kit. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67862-camel-quay-a-north-cornwall-inspired-layout-in-4mm/?p=1382621 It maybe overscale, non prototypical, but as others have said, better than nothing. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyingwing10 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Would any kind soul please offer any advice on how to assemble the crank mechanisms and how they can be linked to the rodding in a stable manner? Thank you in anticipation Andrew Wing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Hi Andrew. With the base still attached to the sprue, I stuck the crank on top and then added the cranked rodding before cutting free. I made a jig to line up the ends of the rods (see link in post 124). It's all a bit of a fiddle and took me two attempts. If I was doing it again I think I might opt for a brass system, maybe Brassmasters or MSE. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
black and decker boy Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Here is my 1st ever effort with point rodding. I used the Wills kits and pre assembled the rodding runs by drilling and doweling the top roller. Cranks may be right, may be wrong but at normal viewing distance, I am quite pleased with the effect. Edit for missing word & spelling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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