Down_Under Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Graham just arrived down under. However the blanking plug seems a little too short. Anyone else have this problem? Following with interest the P4 conversion. I was thinking either, Ultrascale wheels pushed back on the Hornby original axles? Or a branchlines chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Graham just arrived down under. However the blanking plug seems a little too short. Anyone else have this problem? C3584C5A-B327-4EA5-AC37-17096C18969F.jpeg Following with interest the P4 conversion. I was thinking either, Ultrascale wheels pushed back on the Hornby original axles? Or a branchlines chassis? Remove the tension lock coupling from the pocket the blank then plugs into the pocket. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Down_Under Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Thanks for thank bigherb - yup I was Not really thinking when I was having a play J 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted March 29, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) I've been stalled on mine for years as I couldn't find a way to get the panel joints subtle enough on a model where one part of the body stays with the chassis and the other comes away when the body is taken off. I stumbled on the loco last night and it occurred to me that one way to do this is to cut the chassis away from the body parts that it is permanently connected to (the footplate, etc), and find a new way of fixing the chassis to the body which could now be unite as a whole and permanently. The chassis could be grafted to brass spacers or some such inside the body. I've outlined the part I'd envisage cutting out, with 2 of the possible 4 re-fixing points arrowed. As I model 00 I'd keep the Hornby chassis. But one could even replace the whole chassis with a scratchbuilt one, with a High Level box. Would this be a way for the P4 people to liberate themselves from Hornby's gears? Edited March 29, 2018 by Daddyman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 What exactly are the panel joins you're trying to hide? Rt models do overlays for the valances which remove this, and the one between the cab and the handrail panel is prototypical unless later modified. Paul A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium rprodgers Posted April 3, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2018 Is the Hornby model of the Sentinel the same as were used in the China clay industry in Cornwall Denise, Sharon? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1722 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Well, my Oxfordshire Ironstone Sentinel Betty is now finished. Detailing parts included swords and plates from Judith Edge, Nameplates from Narrow Planet and sand box spill plates from RT models - I would have used their skirts too, but I'd already filled and sanded mine before they became available. It started life as the Wabtec livery model, resprayed with Humbrol acrylic and transfers from Fox. Other detailing includes filling the join lines in the buffer beams, drilling out the lifting eyes, making dump car coupling pockets from scrap etch and adding a crew. I didn't fancy using the Shawplan glazing, but this is also available. DSC_0011.JPG Paul A. Hi Paul, cracking job on this respray. I'd love to make a Betty myself. Quick question for you, if you'd be so kind. Can you recall what Humbrol acrylic number you used for the main colour please? Thanks Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Hi Paul, cracking job on this respray. I'd love to make a Betty myself. Quick question for you, if you'd be so kind. Can you recall what Humbrol acrylic number you used for the main colour please? Thanks Chris Thanks Chris. It was "No.20 Crimson" It's available in a rattle can...or at least it was - the Humbrol website is showing as out of stock. Readily available elsewhere though. Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1722 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Thanks Chris. It was "No.20 Crimson" It's available in a rattle can...or at least it was - the Humbrol website is showing as out of stock. Readily available elsewhere though. Paul A. Thank you! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted April 9, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2018 I bought a rod-drive flavoured one of these a couple of weeks ago and it runs like a three-legged dog. It literally runs as if it has a limp. That's when it runs at all - it usually needs prodding to get it to move at all. Any ideas what the likely cause is and is there a cure, short of hitting it with a large hammer and buying a proper one (Judith Edge kit). Sending it back is no longer an option since I repainted it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted April 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 9, 2018 I bought a rod-drive flavoured one of these a couple of weeks ago and it runs like a three-legged dog. It literally runs as if it has a limp. That's when it runs at all - it usually needs prodding to get it to move at all. Any ideas what the likely cause is and is there a cure, short of hitting it with a large hammer and buying a proper one (Judith Edge kit). Sending it back is no longer an option since I repainted it. Sounds like the wheels aren't quartered properly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Sounds like the wheels aren't quartered properly. Easy enough to check. The Plastic cranks, complete with rods simply pull off. This pic might make things a bit clearer. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted April 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2018 Easy enough to check. The Plastic cranks, complete with rods simply pull off. This pic might make things a bit clearer. I see no pic. Unless it's a pic of a white Sentinel in a snowdrift?. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 I see no pic. Unless it's a pic of a white Sentinel in a snowdrift?. Aw nuts! Forgot to add the link. It's the tablets Doctor. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65710-Hornby-sentinel-including-cranked-version/page-45&do=findComment&comment=2974644 P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted April 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2018 Thanks. The pic shows the cranks completely removed, so are the ends of the axles square, splined or just plain round? They don't seem to want to budge on mine and I don't want to force them round on the axle if they aren't meant to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Thanks. The pic shows the cranks completely removed, so are the ends of the axles square, splined or just plain round? They don't seem to want to budge on mine and I don't want to force them round on the axle if they aren't meant to. Yep. The ends of the extended axles are square. The cranks (plastic) have square sockets and on mine simply pulled off. The original wheels were an interference fit on the straight knurling. Don't know if this phot makes things any clearer? The model I used for the phots was Hornby's R3483 in Crossley and Evans livery. Looking at Tim horns photograph of a Non Crank Sentinel, confusingly seems to include an Hornby cranked axle of a different design showing a splined plastic extension integral with the wheel centre so possibly Hornby changed the specification at some point? Hornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH04 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr Hth p Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted April 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2018 Thanks. That definitely makes it clearer and the cranks having square holes means it can't be the quartering then. I think I'd notice if one was out 90 degrees! But having said that, comparing one end to the other, they do appear to be slightly out. Something to do with the gears on the axles being in the wrong position relative to the cranks? Is that even possible? Why have they built this thing with gears to both axles when it has rods anyway? Bizarre. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Yep. The ends of the extended axles are square. The cranks (plastic) have square sockets and on mine simply pulled off. The original wheels were an interference fit on the straight knurling. Don't know if this phot makes things any clearer? HornbySenitiel-007-EditSM.jpg The model I used for the phots was Hornby's R3483 in Crossley and Evans livery. Looking at Tim horns photograph of a Non Crank Sentinel, confusingly seems to include an Hornby cranked axle of a different design showing a splined plastic extension integral with the wheel centre so possibly Hornby changed the specification at some point? Hornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH04 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr Hth p It’s interesting that Tim Horn has used the original Hornby pinions but hasn’t experienced the concentricity problem I encountered 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted April 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2018 Have you tried running it with the cranks removed? Try each side in turn and if the problem disappears it might be a case of just replacing the crank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Coryton Posted April 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2018 Thanks. That definitely makes it clearer and the cranks having square holes means it can't be the quartering then. I think I'd notice if one was out 90 degrees! But having said that, comparing one end to the other, they do appear to be slightly out. Something to do with the gears on the axles being in the wrong position relative to the cranks? Is that even possible? Why have they built this thing with gears to both axles when it has rods anyway? Bizarre. To keep the design the same as the models without coupling rods? It does look like a recipe for trouble, though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 (edited) It’s interesting that Tim Horn has used the original Hornby pinions but hasn’t experienced the concentricity problem I encountered I think Mr Horn has used the Ultrascale "drop in" conversions. Same as Capt K from hereabouts. Hornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH03 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr Edited April 12, 2018 by Porcy Mane 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted April 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 12, 2018 (edited) I found the cause of the problem to be that the gear on one axle was loose. It was able to slide from side to side and partially rotate. I think this must have taken it out of phase with the rods. Simply fixed by cutting the gear off the axle and relying on the rods to transmit power to the second axle. So it does run now and reasonably smoothly too. Edited April 15, 2018 by Ruston 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 I think Mr Horn has used the Ultrascale "drop in" conversions. Same as Capt K from hereabouts. Hornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH03 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr Thanks for that. I have acquired a set of Ultrascales second hand for my second conversion. I shall be using them when the current project is finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Down_Under Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Is it me, or are there are two different wheel diameters? The parts book has 3 different parts listed for the three versions. Looks,like the rod drive have slightly larger wheel than the mechanicals? J 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Is it me, or are there are two different wheel diameters? The parts book has 3 different parts listed for the three versions. Looks,like the rod drive have slightly larger wheel than the mechanicals? J Yes there's a variation in wheel diameters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now