Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[Nigelcliffe]

My experience:  aluminum angle is an awful running surface.    Proper rail is so much better.   So, the basic design of plastic clip is OK, but the problem is the aluminium.  

[tom s]

 

The motor's universal joint needs a version 2, but I managed to reach a milestone in my 3D printed chassis project, getting the motor to freely spin the geartrain upon the axles. The bogie is a two part unit that is held together by friction on the 1mm round bar in the front, back, and can be kept doubly in position by a vertical bar in the middle where the left hand pickups will anchor to. Idea is keep everything easily disassemblable, should the soft resin break or age poorly. 

Will use association rims, pinpoint axles and top hats, (The mating faces of the two bogie prints filed back until the axles sit exactly in the bearings.)
The worm, 3x2mm bushings and the 6400rpm planetary motor are cheapo ones from aliexpress.
The gears are printed too!

Cheers, Tom

[Jan W]

Not specifically 2mm but I just finished a very simple handheld controller for my DCC-EX system.

The idea for this was born a few years ago after a discussion on the 2mm VAG about DCC controllers looking like tv remotes and why there was not a simple controller just to run locos on a small layout.

I started it then but abandoned the idea because what I made also started to look like a remote control, simply because I needed a keypad to enter the loco address.

But earlier this year it occurred to me that I could use another method to select the loco.

 

This is the result:

It is built around an Arduino Nano Every which is connected to the main system with a 3 wire lead.

I wanted to build it with the tools I have so I made the housing and buttons on my 3D printer. Symbols on the buttons are not perfect but I’m actually quite pleased with what my filament printer produced.

 

The controller has it limitations:

2 digit loco address (actually 0-127)

light on/off

sound mute (short press) and sound on/off (long press)

brake function

whistle

 

I also added a 4 position recall function to easily select recent locos.

When S is pressed the potentiometer is used to select the loco address. It has a range of 0-127, when the loco number is displayed C is pressed and the potentiometer reading becomes the loco address.

A 2 sec pause is added to give time to turn the knob to 0 before normal running mode starts again.

 

This is all I need to run my small layout.

Until now I used an old smartphone to run the layout but I wanted a simple knob and direction switch so I don’t have to look at the controller to change direction for example.

I also wanted a wired controller for reliability if I ever want to take my layout to an exhibition. I have no idea what would happen with the DCC-EX wifi to phone connection in an environment with lots of wireless systems.

The sound functions are added with the Zimo immersive drive in the back of my head where the potentiometer is used as ‘regulator’ and the brake is needed to slow the loco down.

I will look into the Zimo decoders, now I have a simple MRC sounder layout sound decoder but muting the chuff sound is quite abrupt and not realistic. Maybe I can use a Zimo sound decoder for layout sound and use non-sound decoders in the locos?

 

And this is what is inside:

 

Jan

[Bryn]

 

Fresh off the workbench this evening. 

 

This 45T conical end tank is a combination of the etches from the Stephen Harris kit and an alternative 3D printed body drawn up by TomE.

 

Painting is my usual mix of Tamiya acrylics and oil paint weathering.

[Donw]

3 hours ago, Jan W said:

Not specifically 2mm but I just finished a very simple handheld controller for my DCC-EX system.

The idea for this was born a few years ago after a discussion on the 2mm VAG about DCC controllers looking like tv remotes and why there was not a simple controller just to run locos on a small layout.

I started it then but abandoned the idea because what I made also started to look like a remote control, simply because I needed a keypad to enter the loco address.

But earlier this year it occurred to me that I could use another method to select the loco.

 

This is the result:

It is built around an Arduino Nano Every which is connected to the main system with a 3 wire lead.

I wanted to build it with the tools I have so I made the housing and buttons on my 3D printer. Symbols on the buttons are not perfect but I’m actually quite pleased with what my filament printer produced.

 

The controller has it limitations:

2 digit loco address (actually 0-127)

light on/off

sound mute (short press) and sound on/off (long press)

brake function

whistle

 

I also added a 4 position recall function to easily select recent locos.

When S is pressed the potentiometer is used to select the loco address. It has a range of 0-127, when the loco number is displayed C is pressed and the potentiometer reading becomes the loco address.

A 2 sec pause is added to give time to turn the knob to 0 before normal running mode starts again.

 

This is all I need to run my small layout.

Until now I used an old smartphone to run the layout but I wanted a simple knob and direction switch so I don’t have to look at the controller to change direction for example.

I also wanted a wired controller for reliability if I ever want to take my layout to an exhibition. I have no idea what would happen with the DCC-EX wifi to phone connection in an environment with lots of wireless systems.

The sound functions are added with the Zimo immersive drive in the back of my head where the potentiometer is used as ‘regulator’ and the brake is needed to slow the loco down.

I will look into the Zimo decoders, now I have a simple MRC sounder layout sound decoder but muting the chuff sound is quite abrupt and not realistic. Maybe I can use a Zimo sound decoder for layout sound and use non-sound decoders in the locos?

 

And this is what is inside:

 

Jan

 

Nice job Jan. I had got halfway through my attempt using a promicro when I had to move for health reasons and haven't found the time to resume work on it yet. But I am going to build a WiFi one. I currently have a commercial one which runs with the DCCEX.

 

Don

[Hendreladis]

Life's too short and sometimes compromise is essential.

 

I picked up a 3D printer a couple of years ago and it languished in the box until recently as I simply could not get to grip with any of the draughting packages. A month ago I rediscovered the machine in a cupboard and had another go. First prints were abominable but eventually it started to make sense.

 

The association 57XX is a favourite of mine and forms the basis of a variety of models. Usually I go for something with a wheelbase as close to what is virtually a GWR standard as possible but the pool runs pretty dry once you start straying towards locos from other manufacturers. Wheelbases on these are usually about a foot out overall which used to bother me. Creating a truly scale model of these invites scratchbuilding or drawing up etching artwork which can be rewarding in itself but eventually one has to accept that a correct wheelbase on a loco two feet away does not overcome the shortcomings in build, rolling stock, scenery etc. 

 

Tank engines proliferate among the South Wales companies offering quite a few options to create 'nearish' replicas with a bit of tweaking. Here are some pictures of first goes at Neath and Brecon and Taff Vale saddle tanks. It is actually possible to squeeze them onto a re-motored Dapol chassis provided a bit of carving is done around the firebox and the middle splasher but they are an okay fit on the Association pannier chassis as long as you employ a 7mm coreless. There is simply a void under the saddle. Time will tell whether that invites a filler piece to represent the underside of the boiler but a black tank generates a fair bit of shadow.

 

Handrails etc need to added later. I am still debating the merit of including them on the print akin to a GEM or Langley kit from the 70s. It may be the way ahead for me given the compromise approach these models represent. I'd always been taken with the similarity of certain LYR models and those on the TVR and had meant to cut and shut the GEM kit into the TV V class. This was easier.

 

The tank allows a fair bit of lead to be added. Obviously it is possible to go totally OTT and include all cab fittings etc but taking up that space in plastic prevents adding metal to aid weight. One of the pics shows a Taff Vale loco on a Dapol chassis which certainly weighs more than the original pannier body.

 

Separate boiler fittings in metal make sense but they are challenging to do well. A brass dome would necessitate filing back the resin and turning something better. Luckily the Quakers loomed large in South Wales so black paint abounded. 

 

Resin used so far is brittle but dropping even a robust nickel silver model results in problems. With these the body could easily be replaced and doubtless more durable resins are/will be available. 

 

Photos and paint jobs are truly awful but this might just be the way ahead for me. Is it real modelling? Hmmm . . . 

 

Andrew

 

 

 

Edited August 19 by Hendreladis
typo

[nick_bastable]

Just to show Im still alive and slugging away I printed one of these

 

I like jigs and things and although designed for smd could be useful in 2mm with a pcb base

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2900194

 

Nick B