emt_911 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Lee I like what you've done with 037. Very effective and realistic. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Cheers Sean, send me a pm if you would like any building. That's very kind Lee. I don't need any just yet as I am focussing my attention on other aspects of our club layout BUT, if the offer still stands in a few months if you're not too busy, that'd be grand. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melly Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Excellent work as ever Lee . . . . ..BUT . . . . . .your gonna have to explain this one !!! http://www.flickr.com/photos/br_blue/8594028726/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 08 repaired, back in one piece, and running with a new Zimo sound chip Is that a Bach or Hornby 08. I've a Bach 08 that I picked up cheap on ebay a couple of years ago, but the pickup-running is awful and it's been consigned to the to-do cupboard. The 50s are nice; I couldn't justify one really... but one of our first purchases was a NSE 50027 (after my son saw it at the NYMR... since when we went on it's first passenger duty at the MHR... and intend to repeat this at the diesel gala next month too)... but I did manage to get a cheap 013 in original blue, which suits my period. Yes the model in nicely detailed and weighty. I'll be doing some mods, but they're quite limited compared to other models (although it's another one in the queue). On the subject of buffer stops, I've just done a second one - modified peco - the first one is shown here and it looked ok to me. The PHD ones are nice too... but there's more than one way to get to something reasonable.... mine were a fiddle as they were re-gauged... but it shows what can be done. Happy Easter y'all Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Good work on the 50 Lee. Never really been a fan of the locos tbh but I think probably because I was very rarely exposed to them in my youth. Again regarding the buffer stops I scrstchbuilt mine from spare rail and plasitcard for the connection plates. Much the same as the PHD ones really. But with plastic instead of the etch. I notice the PHD ones are built onto the running rails however I built mine on a seperate set of rails outside of the running rails as per the prototype. Makes it easier to add to the layout after too which is nice. Check out the first pic on my Outon Road thread which shows them. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Looks and sounds superb, david Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Yes Lee I like the PHD ones as well. the plates being etched does save a lot of time. I was just curious about the way they are built directly onto the running rail, Pete also built his sample pic of them like that as well so I'm sure that's how the instructions went. I just noticed that when building mine the stop was on a separate set of rails either side of the running rails and bolted through. Not sure if it was the practice in every location but it was certainly on all of the reference pics I looked at. Heres a picture of such a stop. Cav 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Were the buffer stops you saw the same type as the PHD and my ones as I have never seen a pic of them directly on the rail of that type. Id be interested in seeing the pics if you have em? The class 86s and the 08 look splendid. Very well done indeed sir. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ess1uk Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 (edited) Were the buffer stops you saw the same type as the PHD and my ones as I have never seen a pic of them directly on the rail of that type. Id be interested in seeing the pics if you have em? The class 86s and the 08 look splendid. Very well done indeed sir. Cav Try here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/42495-prototype-infrastructure/ 3rd pictue I think they are similar ? Edited April 1, 2013 by ess1uk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Nope, its the right type but that one is also built on a separate rail bolted through beside the main running rails. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Is this one? http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1784647 Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 (edited) Nope thats a different type one altogether. I only really ask as I scoured the web for ages when I was building mine and I never found one of that type built directly to the rail. It actually suited me as it meant I could build the buffer stops away from the layout and simply add it after I also didnt have to worry about shorting the siding out either as I just made sure the stop didnt touch the running rails when glued in place. Cav Edited April 1, 2013 by RBE 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Very nice job on the 08. Like the 86s also, wouldn't mind a pair of them in Swallow livery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Hi Lee, those 86s look nice. Do you use an airbrush... or aerosole... good finish by the looks of it... and is it Railmatch or precision? Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Hi Jon. Iwata brush, Precision paints. Thanks Lee. I'm still using Railmatch enamels but I do have an Iwata Revolution waiting to be used for the first time; my PremiAir G35 is fine for weathering, but i though the 0.5 nozzle on the Iwata better for full paint jobs. We'll see. Cheers..... Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 That yard tower is looking good. These things can be tricky to build with lots of length and not much meat. Well done on that will be interested to see that finished. Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Lee Seriously impressed with the lighting tower. Some excellent work. Looking forward to seeing the finished item. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Well you have more patience than me !! Nice job, the twenties are looking good too and looking forward to seeing the 56s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm81 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Hi, You may well have got the LED's too hot, I can't think of how else you could've gone wrong... A hot iron and speed is the best, even better if you can get your hands on a second iron to heat both sides at the same time then lift it off. Shouldn't be too difficult to pick up some more components though, hiding the wires will be tricky though. I was also going to suggest using the tower itself in place of one of the wires. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Lee You could also save yourself some wiring by wiring the LED's in series. This would mean only one power feed cable. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Lee LEDs of the type you are using are available in the bucketload off of ebay and not pre soldered to anything either. I used the same type but in red green and yellow to build one of Pete Harveys excellent 4mm scale signal kits. I found a little bit of flux on the contact and a quick dab of a pre loaded iron is all you need to make a good joint. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=300821969662 The link is for warm white but a more blue white is also available if that floats your boat. Cav Edited April 16, 2013 by RBE 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 What livery are the Class 56s going to get? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Pix Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Hi Lee Those 20s look and sound great. Keep up the good work. Jez Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) Lee as for soldering up the lights heres a little sketch. I would superglue some lacquer wire (dont forget to take the lacquer off the tip before gluing as it wont solder otherwise) to the arm prior to soldering the LED on then solder the led tab in to the support. A bit of flux and a quick dab of loaded iron should not heat tye support enough to melt the superglue. Then bend the lacquer wire down to the other contact and solder again. The lamp will then be nice and straight and once painted the lacquer wire should blend into the support perfectly. Cav Edited April 17, 2013 by RBE 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Great video the choppers look and sound great, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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