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LNER B15 (NER Class S2) 4-6-0 -


mikemeg

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A suggestion. Whilst the fret is still flat lightly scribe a line level with the edge of the valance as a guide for filing.

 

That's a good suggestion. In fact the filing of tabs back to the level of the valance, whilst tedious, wasn't difficult. I did ensure that the file I used was quite fine, so didn't drag too much, and was slightly wider than the tab being filed, so that I could see when the tab was approaching level with the valance. Just a little care, very good light, and not trying to do the job too quickly and all was fine.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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That's a good suggestion. In fact the filing of tabs back to the level of the valance, whilst tedious, wasn't difficult. I did ensure that the file I used was quite fine, so didn't drag too much, and was slightly wider than the tab being filed, so that I could see when the tab was approaching level with the valance. Just a little care, very good light, and not trying to do the job too quickly and all was fine.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Hello Mike, all,

 

when you're filling the tabs off the valances, first file as you would normally until you get to the etched cusp. Then draw file all of the rest of the cusp off.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. if you're not sure about what I mean about draw filling, it's when you have the file at 90degs. to the work piece and pull it along the work piece rather than across it. The finer and wider the file the better.

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Hello Mike, all,

 

when you're filling the tabs off the valances, first file as you would normally until you get to the etched cusp. Then draw file all of the rest of the cusp off.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. if you're not sure about what I mean about draw filling, it's when you have the file at 90degs. to the work piece and pull it along the work piece rather than across it. The finer and wider the file the better.

 

OzzyO,

 

Thanks for that and, in fact, that's exactly what I did, for the last few thou. I then wrapped a piece of very fine emery paper around the end of one of the steel rules and draw filed with that, which took off the final inequalities.

 

Once again, many thanks.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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As other NER locos (B13, B14, C6, C7 and C8) have a sinilar footplate I am sure that the cradle tacnique is the way to go.

 

Am I reading too much into this, or is this a clue to future production? A C7 would be nice!

 

B15 is looking good Mike. Coincidentally, I came across a really nice photo of one the other day, in the softback book on "LNER Wagons before 1948" (or something like that: it's not to hand at the moment).

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Am I reading too much into this, or is this a clue to future production? A C7 would be nice!

 

 

Tim

 

I would love to add the C7 (and the C6) to my range but let's clear out the others first - the "W", Tennant and Q7. Then I have a J77 update planned (both versions). I have a couple of others under development. Perhaps after they are out of the way we can think about the Atlantics. Would anyone wabt a 4CC (LNER C8)? Just asking! Actually I did start the C6 as a development of the B15. It got pushed aside but the initial work is still there and the construction of the two is very similar. An easier task is the B13 which is basically the same as the B15 but with smaller boiler and lower cab profile. One of those lasted into BR as a counter pressure test engine and ended up at the Rugby testing pllant!

 

ArthurK

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Well the U & I as close (on the keyboard)! Post changed!

 

I have to keep you on your toes.

 

ArthurK

 

We'll be getting the venerable Miss Jones, on here, with all of this talk of 'ascending moisture'.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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Rigsby: 'Nonsense Miss Jones, you have an hour-glass figure.'

 

Miss Jones: 'Well I cant help wishing I had a bit more sand'.

 

And all of this from a one character mistyping! Was this from memory, Ivan, or do you have the CD's of this program?

 

Ah the wonders of RMWeb.

 

Cheers Horsetan

 

Mike

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Just to prevent this sequence of twenty five postings (page 4 of the thread) reaching its end without any photos of the model, here's one. All of the boiler bands are now on. Boiler band fitting isn't my favourite job and this one proved no exception, though that's down to the builder and is no reflection on the kit.

 

I've also replaced the cast knob on the smokebox door with a Gibson handrail stanchion, with the flange turned off so that the whole stanchion will sit in a hole, leaving just the knob section (there's no other way of expressing this) protruding. A similar process was done for the knob on the valve chest cover, which has just been lifted, prior to fixing, to show this.

 

I still have to re-drill the lifting hole on the front frame nearest the camera, then time for the mainframes and chassis, I think.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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I tend to look out for opportunities for punning. :jester:

 

And don't get me started with Father Ted, as I've more or less memorised the scripts!

 

In return for which, I won't get started on Blackadder, especially the series set in the First World War, with General Melchett.

 

Cheers and thanks for the puns

 

Mike

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Well the U & I as close (on the keyboard)! Post changed!

 

I have to keep you on your toes.

 

ArthurK

 

Or :- 'U gave go leep joy in hour foes'

 

"This is enigmatic, Doctor Turing, but what does it mean? Can you find out?"

"Well, Lorenz, I'm not sure, but I'll wheel in some code breakers and see whether they can cross any wires and throw any lights on it, to help understand this enigma."

 

With the sincerest and greatest possible respect for all those who served, so tirelessly and valiantly, in a country house in Buckinghamshire.

 

Oh this just gets more and more bizarre.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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And here was I thinking that the problems with Boiler bands (Yes horrible things to put on). On my Q6 which had a flat boiler to start I scribed the outer edges of where they should be and it has worked quite well rather than trying to solder or adhesive fix the bands on. Yes the Q6's were almost flush but not quite in the flesh. I believe that they are to scale about 1/8th thick so almost flush could be OK.

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Having reached this point, with only a few jobs left to do, then I'll leave the loco body and now proceed with the assembly of the mainframes and all associated equipment on the mainframes.

 

The cab roof isn't yet fixed and won't be until the fully detailed backhead is fitted.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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One of the very satisfying aspects of trial building these kits, is that I am doing something which no-one has done before, except, of course, for Arthur. Satisfying as that is, it can also be occasionally just a little frustrating as things are found which don't always go exactly to plan. Of course that is the nature, and the purpose, of trial builds.

 

Anyway the frames have each been fitted with a CSB, though I am still not entirely convinced that this is either the best, or the easiest method of achieving chassis equalisation - and I really don't want to provoke any debate at all about that, it's all been said on other threads. The frame spacers have also almost all been fitted, though some were omitted and some were modified but that's just part of the process.

 

Equally I also believe that etched kits should be capable of being built for '00', unless there is some prototype feature which absolutely prohibits that. '00' is by far the most popular gauge and I believe that any kit designed to exclude that majority is, potentially, missing out on that market majority.

 

So here's where this build is now up to. I still will reduce those boiler bands a little more, just with a touch of emery.

 

You might notice that though the front frames have cut outs, these are actually smaller than the bogie wheel diameter; they are actually there for clearance of the bogie side frames. So to cater for the deflection of these wheels, on curves, the front frames are progressively narrowed between the motion plate and the buffer beam.

 

It is in areas like this (the absence of bogie wheel cut outs) where compromises would have to be made to allow this model to negotiate the very tight curves often found on '00' layouts. As it is, the model will probably negotiate 3' - 3' 6" minimum radius curves, though I'll know when the bogie is assembled. As my layout has no curve less than 5' radius, this isn't a problem for me but I realise not everyone has that luxury.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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Mike,

 

I stopped using etched boiler bands years ago, when it was pointed out to me that the real things were about 1/8" thick. That's .04mm or .016" (1.6 thou) in 4mm scale. I now rely on the lining transfer representing the boiler band. For plain black locos a strip of tape applied before painting is one solution.

 

Jol

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The cylinder assembly has now been made and a trial fit done. The cylinder wrappers have half etched lines, on the inside, to aid in forming them to the required shape. Adding the riveted strapping to the front and rear of the cylinders does need to be done with care; these are extremely delicate and quite tiny etchings. The motion plate has been modified; a modification which might well be incorporated into the design of the production version, especially for those gauges which have larger wheel flanges.

 

This motion plate is very close to the front wheels, so any additional clearance is an advantage when fitting the wheels and also to allow the front set of brakes, which are located forward of the motion plate, to sit properly against the front driving wheel rims.

 

This photo probably shows why the design of the footplate - intersected by the cylinders and with multiple levels - is such a delicate ccomponent.

 

Again, this is the purpose of these trial builds.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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Nice piece of work, I look forward to seeing the finished job. Mick.

 

Thanks Mick.

 

Shouldn't be too long to this being completed, once I receive the gearbox and wheels.

 

Those front and rear cylinder bands are far too prominent so will have to be taken down to something less than .002" to look correct.

 

By the way, my old mate, I know it was your birthday on Wednesday, well it's mine, a week Friday (Dec 21st; shortest day of the year) and I will officially become an OAP. If there's anyone out there, in cyberspace, wanting to buy me a present, I rather like the look of the new Aston Martin!

 

Regards

 

Mike

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Photographs of B15's do seem to be comparatively rare, so as I came across this one and as I am assuming that it is now out of copyright, dating as it must, from pre 1946 then here it is. This shows the loco on a duty on which most of them seemed to end their days.

 

Somehow the B15's never seemed to fit into any motive power plan for they were very quickly supplanted by the NER S3's (later LNER B16's) and were almost always surplus to requirements under the LNER, other than during the Second World War, when the survivors were pressed back into service.

 

The locomotive in the photograph is LNER 820, which was later renumbered 1696 under the 1946 LNER renumbering scheme and was the last B15 to be withdrawn, in December 1947.

 

I wonder, can anyone tell me where is the location of this photograph; I don't recognise it?

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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