Wright writes.....

[polybear]

1 hour ago, PupCam said:

The layout operated faultlessly and apart from slight confusion with direction (I'll get Poly some Forward and Backward wellies for next time)

 

Now what chance does a Bear stand when Fwd is reverse, and Rev is forwards?

[Tony Wright]

9 hours ago, polybear said:

 

Perhaps it might not behave in the way that Frank has suggested because only the centre axle has been slotted and sprung?  

 

 

Indeed they do - both Puppers and myself had the privilege of a very enjoyable day with Tony, Mo & Jilly today, during which we spent several hours running the sequence on Little Bytham. The number of derailments?  None.  The quality of running?  Well certainly to me (and I suspect Puppers too) it was faultless; I was particularly impressed by the ability to reverse long trains into the sidings over reverse curves containing numerous turnouts reliably and with no derailments whatsoever.  Would springing or compensation improve matters on this layout in any way?  Personally I would struggle to see how.

Just for clarification, I'm not in any way against such techniques as I'm sure they do have benefits in some circumstances (with P4 being perhaps the most obvious) or simply because the builder wants the challenge (if that's the correct phrase) of incorporating the technique.

Many thanks for the invite, Tony.

Thanks for your kind comments Brian,

 

There was that one Sprat & Winkle coupling's links which had got twisted, however. How that occurred, I don't know. And, where I'd previously changed a loco, but forgotten to couple it up!

 

During the sequence we ran, there were almost 60 train movements - everything from flat-out expresses, to the shunting you were undertaking (very well, by the way). Like you, I'm in no way against springing/compensation, but, if a 'rigid' system works (and works well - no layout has 'faultless' running all the time), then I'll not be investigating other methods of building frames.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

 

P.S. I'm delighted you've now got that old A2/2. It had never run on Little Bytham before, but she certainly showed a clean pair of 'wheels'!  

[Iain.d]

Over the last weekend I was able to finish off a Comet Models LMS D1932 Brake Composite Corridor carriage. In typical Comet manner, the parts went together really well. I needed to file away parts of the top of the nicely etched doors of the compartments, to clear the cross beams I’d soldered across the tops of the body sides.

 

 

I spent a little time fashioning up some corridor gangway hangers (a short piece of 1mm x 1mm brass angle, some .45mm n/s wire and a wrap of wire filament to represent the spring) and the end toilet water filler pipes. And I added steps to the van end bogie.

 

And all together

 

 

 

I’ve also made up some curtains for the first class compartments, cut glass for the windows and bent up wire for the commode handles and the guards handrails. I’ve not made any internal window bars for the guards section as in the photo I have I can’t see any present. After I’ve washed the roof, I’ll add some roof ribs from thin tape.

 

I’m not sure when it’ll get painted as I have no primer, nor did the model shop at the weekend and they didn’t know when they’ll get a resupply.  I’m in no rush, I have had real issues with the paint lining I’ve done on the last few carriages so my bow pen is away at the doctors for a check-up; I don’t know when it’ll be back. That said, I’m not so sure it’s the pen, I think it’s something I’m not doing right.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

[Chuffer Davies]

1 hour ago, Iain.d said:

Over the last weekend I was able to finish off a Comet Models LMS D1932 Brake Composite Corridor carriage. In typical Comet manner, the parts went together really well. I needed to file away parts of the top of the nicely etched doors of the compartments, to clear the cross beams I’d soldered across the tops of the body sides.

 

 

I spent a little time fashioning up some corridor gangway hangers (a short piece of 1mm x 1mm brass angle, some .45mm n/s wire and a wrap of wire filament to represent the spring) and the end toilet water filler pipes. And I added steps to the van end bogie.

 

And all together

 

 

 

I’ve also made up some curtains for the first class compartments, cut glass for the windows and bent up wire for the commode handles and the guards handrails. I’ve not made any internal window bars for the guards section as in the photo I have I can’t see any present. After I’ve washed the roof, I’ll add some roof ribs from thin tape.

 

I’m not sure when it’ll get painted as I have no primer, nor did the model shop at the weekend and they didn’t know when they’ll get a resupply.  I’m in no rush, I have had real issues with the paint lining I’ve done on the last few carriages so my bow pen is away at the doctors for a check-up; I don’t know when it’ll be back. That said, I’m not so sure it’s the pen, I think it’s something I’m not doing right.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Hi Iain,

as someone who has yet to start building any coaches, but I have an articulated pair of D&S coaches to build in due course, can I ask you where you source the glass for the windows and how do you then cut it?  How then do you attach the glass to the carriage sides?

TIA,

Frank

[D-A-T]

I used Microscope Slide Slip Glass Covers on the one coach I’ve built. I think from a recommendation on either this thread or another thread on RMWeb. A bit fiddly and a learning experience but good results. 

[lezz01]

3 minutes ago, D-A-T said:

I used Microscope Slide Slip Glass Covers on the one coach I’ve built. I think from a recommendation on either this thread or another thread on RMWeb. A bit fiddly and a learning experience but good results. 

Also as cheap as chips! A tiny spot of  clear silicon sealant in each corner if you fit them on the inside of the coach side or a small smear along the edges if you fit them in the frame fixes them. The best thing about using actual glass is that it doesn't go white if you get solvent on it. 

Regards Lez.

[lezz01]

You can get them from ebay, amazon or anywhere the sells microscopes. They are very, VERY thin if you want something a bit thicker you can use the slides instead.

Regards Lez.

[Iain.d]

1 hour ago, Chuffer Davies said:

Hi Iain,

as someone who has yet to start building any coaches, but I have an articulated pair of D&S coaches to build in due course, can I ask you where you source the glass for the windows and how do you then cut it?  How then do you attach the glass to the carriage sides?

TIA,

Frank

Hi Frank,

 

For the glass I use microscope slip covers, they come in a variety of sizes; I’ve seen 18mm x 18mm, 20mm x 20mm and 25mm x 25mm. I buy them on ebay and try to get the size nearest to the window size of the carriage I’m doing, if I can. As much of my current modelling is LMS Period III and BR Mk1 it’s normally the 18mm x 18mm as it means less cuts.

 

 

The Chinese slip covers have a variable quality; sometimes the cheaper buys are better than the more expensive ones. I can’t recommend one brand over another. My current batch is quite poor and there’s a lot of wastage. Previously, some glass has been really good and cut beautifully. To cut I have a scriber, again from ebay, not sure on this one but I think it was about £4-£5. It does have a protective cap (removed for the photo). The tip on this one is not perfect and cuts better depending on where it sits in my hand; it scribes best when the bit that clips it into a pocket is resting on the web between thumb and first finger.

 

I have an old piece of card with drawn lines for a variety of window sizes and I use a short steel ruler to scribe against.

 

The main variable to success or otherwise is the pressure used on the scriber on the glass. Sometimes the lightest of touches will crack or fracture a slip cover, other times I can be quite heavy handed and still need to scribe twice. Don't apply the scriber to the glass right at the edge, do it about 1/2mm in and lift it off about 1/2mm before you come to the end of the glass - I've had more success this way. Once you’ve done one or two and ‘got your eye in’ (or hand as it were) it can be quite quick.  Once scribed I will ‘crack’ the slip by resting on the ruler and pressing gently with my thumb nail. Sometimes the glass won’t crack along the line, sometimes it’ll break part way, sometimes it’ll just bend (yes, bend!). Its always worth doing a couple of extra pieces.

 

I keep all the off cuts in little poly bags, as at some point in the future they’ll be needed for a particular size of carriage window.

 

I glue the glass in with 5 minute epoxy, using two clean cocktail sticks / tooth picks. I rest the coach on its side, clean the glass and place it over the window opening.  I usually just do four windows at a time. Mix up the epoxy and let it thicken for about one minute. It you apply it to the corner of the glass straight away, capillary action will draw it between the glass and the carriage side and will likely show on the outside of the carriage window. If it sets very slightly, it won’t flow so easily.  I hold the glass in place with the tip of one of the cocktail sticks in my non master hand and apply a tiny dab of epoxy to each corner of the window with the other cocktail stick.  I can normally get four windows done before the epoxy goes off. And then I do the next set of four windows.  I sometimes use Micro Kristal Klear glue but I just seem to get on better with epoxy. I let one side lie for a while before I turn the carriage over and do the other side. I then glue on semi clear plastic for the toilet windows, guard’s area and so on. And then any window bars or handrails.

 

 

You can see in the picture above that because of the curvature of the side of the BR Mk1, I also cut the glass along the line of the toplights(?)/quarterlights(?)/window vents(?), which results in slightly less gap between the glass and the side of the carriage on the lower part of the window. Sometimes I need to cut a corner off a pane to clear something like a soldered door hinge or door handle hole, as on the extreme left window. The Law of Sod decrees that this is the cut that shatters the whole piece!

 

It can take a while to glaze a carriage – maybe 2 or 3 hours, but I think the windows look like glass, because it is! Sometimes when I’m doing the final build a window will crack, it’s just a case of sliding a scalpel between the glass and the carriage side and cutting off the epoxy and redoing.

 

Hope that helps! Sorry for the chapter and verse...

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Edited April 19, 2023 by Iain.d
Add a sentence

[Chuffer Davies]

48 minutes ago, Iain.d said:

Hi Frank,

 

Hope that helps! Sorry for the chapter and verse...

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Hi Iain,

that’s just what I needed to know so thank you for going to the trouble of describing it so completely.  Just one further question please:

is the scriber a generic scriber or one specifically for glass cutting? Once I know, I can get on and order one along with some slip covers and have a practice.  The thought of building brass coaches itself doesn’t intimidate me but it’s the non-brass bits that make me nervous.

Many thanks,

Frank

[Iain.d]

Hi Frank,

 

It was one specifically for glass marking. I bought it about 6 years ago, not sure what they cost today.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Iain.d said:

Hi Frank,

 

For the glass I use microscope slip covers, they come in a variety of sizes; I’ve seen 18mm x 18mm, 20mm x 20mm and 25mm x 25mm. I buy them on ebay and try to get the size nearest to the window size of the carriage I’m doing, if I can. As much of my current modelling is LMS Period III and BR Mk1 it’s normally the 18mm x 18mm as it means less cuts.

 

 

The Chinese slip covers have a variable quality; sometimes the cheaper buys are better than the more expensive ones. I can’t recommend one brand over another. My current batch is quite poor and there’s a lot of wastage. Previously, some glass has been really good and cut beautifully. To cut I have a scriber, again from ebay, not sure on this one but I think it was about £4-£5. It does have a protective cap (removed for the photo). The tip on this one is not perfect and cuts better depending on where it sits in my hand; it scribes best when the bit that clips it into a pocket is resting on the web between thumb and first finger.

 

I have an old piece of card with drawn lines for a variety of window sizes and I use a short steel ruler to scribe against.

 

The main variable to success or otherwise is the pressure used on the scriber on the glass. Sometimes the lightest of touches will crack or fracture a slip cover, other times I can be quite heavy handed and still need to scribe twice. Don't apply the scriber to the glass right at the edge, do it about 1/2mm in and lift it off about 1/2mm before you come to the end of the glass - I've had more success this way. Once you’ve done one or two and ‘got your eye in’ (or hand as it were) it can be quite quick.  Once scribed I will ‘crack’ the slip by resting on the ruler and pressing gently with my thumb nail. Sometimes the glass won’t crack along the line, sometimes it’ll break part way, sometimes it’ll just bend (yes, bend!). Its always worth doing a couple of extra pieces.

 

I keep all the off cuts in little poly bags, as at some point in the future they’ll be needed for a particular size of carriage window.

 

I glue the glass in with 5 minute epoxy, using two clean cocktail sticks / tooth picks. I rest the coach on its side, clean the glass and place it over the window opening.  I usually just do four windows at a time. Mix up the epoxy and let it thicken for about one minute. It you apply it to the corner of the glass straight away, capillary action will draw it between the glass and the carriage side and will likely show on the outside of the carriage window. If it sets very slightly, it won’t flow so easily.  I hold the glass in place with the tip of one of the cocktail sticks in my non master hand and apply a tiny dab of epoxy to each corner of the window with the other cocktail stick.  I can normally get four windows done before the epoxy goes off. And then I do the next set of four windows.  I sometimes use Micro Kristal Klear glue but I just seem to get on better with epoxy. I let one side lie for a while before I turn the carriage over and do the other side. I then glue on semi clear plastic for the toilet windows, guard’s area and so on. And then any window bars or handrails.

 

 

You can see in the picture above that because of the curvature of the side of the BR Mk1, I also cut the glass along the line of the toplights(?)/quarterlights(?)/window vents(?), which results in slightly less gap between the glass and the side of the carriage on the lower part of the window. Sometimes I need to cut a corner off a pane to clear something like a soldered door hinge or door handle hole, as on the extreme left window. The Law of Sod decrees that this is the cut that shatters the whole piece!

 

It can take a while to glaze a carriage – maybe 2 or 3 hours, but I think the windows look like glass, because it is! Sometimes when I’m doing the final build a window will crack, it’s just a case of sliding a scalpel between the glass and the carriage side and cutting off the epoxy and redoing.

 

Hope that helps! Sorry for the chapter and verse...

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Good afternoon Iain,

 

Never feel the need to apologise for giving chapter and verse answers.

 

I've learned so much from your posts about glazing.

 

Many thanks.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[60526]

On 18/04/2023 at 15:59, cctransuk said:

 

The downside of these etchings is that the resulting buffer-heads are flat.

 

A suitable sized ballbearing, or similar rounded end tool, lightly hammered into the back of the buffer-head when laid on a piece of softwood, may well produce a more realistic, curved face.

 

CJI.

The brain cells have been asleep for a while, of course the ex GC/ROD 2-8-0 became an O4/8, but also became an O1. Another source of oval buffer head is from the Hornby O1, sold as spares by the likes of Peters Spares - part X6557

[APOLLO]

 

Superb model of a (to me) superb locomotive.

 

That plain double chimney, smoke deflectors, "long legged" look and fantastic name spell speed, power, class.

 

Yes I have a Hornby "puce" green example, bought new and cheap on Amazon a while ago. A very smooth good runner. (As to the "puce" green, I remember spotting 70015 Apollo on Stockport Edgeley shed in an unlined bright pale green in the mid 60's, looked quite odd).

 

Alas these A2 locos never ran through Wigan, after the Duchesses, Royal Scots, Patriots and Jubilees went in the early 60's (very few I remember) the only "class" we saw were the Britannia Pacifics with there distinctive chime whistles. Did the trick for me, and many other spotters also.

 

 

Brit15

 

 

[Michael Edge]

11 minutes ago, APOLLO said:

 

Superb model of a (to me) superb locomotive.

 

That plain double chimney, smoke deflectors, "long legged" look and fantastic name spell speed, power, class.

 

Yes I have a Hornby "puce" green example, bought new and cheap on Amazon a while ago. A very smooth good runner. (As to the "puce" green, I remember spotting 70015 Apollo on Stockport Edgeley shed in an unlined bright pale green in the mid 60's, looked quite odd).

 

Alas these A2 locos never ran through Wigan, after the Duchesses, Royal Scots, Patriots and Jubilees went in the early 60's (very few I remember) the only "class" we saw were the Britannia Pacifics with there distinctive chime whistles. Did the trick for me, and many other spotters also.

 

 

Brit15

 

 

When I first built that loco back in 1976 I think the only information I had was the rather sketchy LNER weight diagram and photos (and a lot less experience!).

I don't know what the date of the Wigan photo is but I spent many hours there as a grubby trainspotter from 1958 onwards - I was allowed as far away as Wigan or Liverpool when I was 11. When the station staff at North Western got fed up of us we used to go down to the yard at the side of Wallgate station where we could see trains on both lines.

[APOLLO]

Another good spotting location where both lines could be seen was just to the south of NW, on the canal bank between the gas and electric works just behind the signal box in the second photo below - a very romantic and picturesque place !!!

 

We did have a few interesting locos though at Wigan.

 

When Wigan GC shed closed in 1951 the J10's were transferred to Springs Branch, lasting till the early 60's when the last one in service was withdrawn and sent to Gorton for scrapping. Often used as the station pilot at North Western. Useful and apparently well liked little locos.

 

 

What a miserable station was Wigan NW just before electrification and rebuilding. Dare anyone model a station in this state ?

 

 

Brit15

[Steamport Southport]

I saw an A3 at Wigan in 1987. 😁

 

I was in the support coach when it was doing the Southport-Wigan/Manchester shuttles. We got a free trip for helping coal and water it. 

 

https://www.wiganworld.co.uk/album/photo.php?opt=3&id=18473&gallery=Railways&offset=640

 

 

 

Jason

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

When I first built that loco back in 1976 I think the only information I had was the rather sketchy LNER weight diagram and photos (and a lot less experience!).

I don't know what the date of the Wigan photo is but I spent many hours there as a grubby trainspotter from 1958 onwards - I was allowed as far away as Wigan or Liverpool when I was 11. When the station staff at North Western got fed up of us we used to go down to the yard at the side of Wallgate station where we could see trains on both lines.

I think I knew even less, Mike.

 

It says a lot for your mechanism constructions that WOLF OF BADENOCH is still going strong! After 47 years! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[LNER4479]

Evening Tony,

 

You made reference to the ex-Brian Lee black Duchess in the run up to the York show. Pleased to post the following photo report of her continuing to find gainful employment on the Scottish Region.

 

 

 

 

I think it's going to take some prising to get her back to Carlisle 😂

[Tony Wright]

10 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Evening Tony,

 

You made reference to the ex-Brian Lee black Duchess in the run up to the York show. Pleased to post the following photo report of her continuing to find gainful employment on the Scottish Region.

 

 

 

 

I think it's going to take some prising to get her back to Carlisle 😂

Good morning Graham,

 

Thanks for showing her in use. It was Brian's funeral on Tuesday, and the family is pleased that all his locos have gone to good homes.

 

I have three on Little Bytham, on the MR/M&GNR bit of LB, though not a 'Duchess'!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Farang]

20 hours ago, D-A-T said:

I used Microscope Slide Slip Glass Covers on the one coach I’ve built. I think from a recommendation on either this thread or another thread on RMWeb. A bit fiddly and a learning experience but good results. 

Building plastic and brass carriages many years ago I obtained a quantity of 1mm glass. This was supported on a strip of .040" styrene and an inner side from .020" styrene. Compartment partitions and seats were made for .020" styrene. I still have enough glass to last several life times 😀

[Keith Turbutt]

16 hours ago, APOLLO said:

 

Yes I have a Hornby "puce" green example, bought new and cheap on Amazon a while ago. A very smooth good runner. (As to the "puce" green, I remember spotting 70015 Apollo on Stockport Edgeley shed in an unlined bright pale green in the mid 60's, looked quite odd).

 

 

 

 

......like this one, unlined 70034 Thomas Hardy at Leeds Neville Hill July 1966

[MJI]

19 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Hi Frank,

 

For the glass I use microscope slip covers, they come in a variety of sizes; I’ve seen 18mm x 18mm, 20mm x 20mm and 25mm x 25mm. I buy them on ebay and try to get the size nearest to the window size of the carriage I’m doing, if I can. As much of my current modelling is LMS Period III and BR Mk1 it’s normally the 18mm x 18mm as it means less cuts.

 

 

The Chinese slip covers have a variable quality; sometimes the cheaper buys are better than the more expensive ones. I can’t recommend one brand over another. My current batch is quite poor and there’s a lot of wastage. Previously, some glass has been really good and cut beautifully. To cut I have a scriber, again from ebay, not sure on this one but I think it was about £4-£5. It does have a protective cap (removed for the photo). The tip on this one is not perfect and cuts better depending on where it sits in my hand; it scribes best when the bit that clips it into a pocket is resting on the web between thumb and first finger.

 

I have an old piece of card with drawn lines for a variety of window sizes and I use a short steel ruler to scribe against.

 

The main variable to success or otherwise is the pressure used on the scriber on the glass. Sometimes the lightest of touches will crack or fracture a slip cover, other times I can be quite heavy handed and still need to scribe twice. Don't apply the scriber to the glass right at the edge, do it about 1/2mm in and lift it off about 1/2mm before you come to the end of the glass - I've had more success this way. Once you’ve done one or two and ‘got your eye in’ (or hand as it were) it can be quite quick.  Once scribed I will ‘crack’ the slip by resting on the ruler and pressing gently with my thumb nail. Sometimes the glass won’t crack along the line, sometimes it’ll break part way, sometimes it’ll just bend (yes, bend!). Its always worth doing a couple of extra pieces.

 

I keep all the off cuts in little poly bags, as at some point in the future they’ll be needed for a particular size of carriage window.

 

I glue the glass in with 5 minute epoxy, using two clean cocktail sticks / tooth picks. I rest the coach on its side, clean the glass and place it over the window opening.  I usually just do four windows at a time. Mix up the epoxy and let it thicken for about one minute. It you apply it to the corner of the glass straight away, capillary action will draw it between the glass and the carriage side and will likely show on the outside of the carriage window. If it sets very slightly, it won’t flow so easily.  I hold the glass in place with the tip of one of the cocktail sticks in my non master hand and apply a tiny dab of epoxy to each corner of the window with the other cocktail stick.  I can normally get four windows done before the epoxy goes off. And then I do the next set of four windows.  I sometimes use Micro Kristal Klear glue but I just seem to get on better with epoxy. I let one side lie for a while before I turn the carriage over and do the other side. I then glue on semi clear plastic for the toilet windows, guard’s area and so on. And then any window bars or handrails.

 

 

You can see in the picture above that because of the curvature of the side of the BR Mk1, I also cut the glass along the line of the toplights(?)/quarterlights(?)/window vents(?), which results in slightly less gap between the glass and the side of the carriage on the lower part of the window. Sometimes I need to cut a corner off a pane to clear something like a soldered door hinge or door handle hole, as on the extreme left window. The Law of Sod decrees that this is the cut that shatters the whole piece!

 

It can take a while to glaze a carriage – maybe 2 or 3 hours, but I think the windows look like glass, because it is! Sometimes when I’m doing the final build a window will crack, it’s just a case of sliding a scalpel between the glass and the carriage side and cutting off the epoxy and redoing.

 

Hope that helps! Sorry for the chapter and verse...

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

 

Pretty interesting, how big a sheet can you get?

 

Scrub that I am limited to nearest mm on dimensions. No one cuts to 0.5 always whole mm.

 

I can get access to cutting tables!!!!

[lezz01]

Looking at my stock of glass microscope slides and slip covers the primary use of which is for checking my koi for parasites not modelling. The modelling use is just a bonus you understand as I only use 10-20 of each a year for my fish. The stated dimensions for the slides are 25.4 x 76.2mm (1" x 3") x 1-1.2mm thick. these have ground edges and for the slip covers the given dimensions are 22 x 22mm x 0.13-0.17mm and are not ground. The thing with glass is you can grind it as well as cut it and it is possible to grind it to an exact shape. How successful you would be all depends on what equipment you have and how competent and confident you are with it's use. The slides are easier to grind as they are thicker and will grind quite well with a bench grinder. The slip covers are more problematic because of the thinness but if you stack them with a very fine film of oil between them and secure them together with masking tape leaving two opposing edges free you can grind the free edges and then remove the tape and re tape them exposing the unground edges they will grind quite well. Once again it's all down to how deft you are with a grinder. It's a little similar to grinding very small drills in that some people can and some people can't and how much you practice. If you don't have a bench grinder you can use a mini drill with a grinding wheel or even a cutting disc but if you are tempted to use real glass for glazing I urge you, in the strongest possible terms, to WEAR SAFETY GLASSES, whenever you are cutting or grinding. 

Regards Lez.      

[Tony Wright]

23 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Evening Tony,

 

You made reference to the ex-Brian Lee black Duchess in the run up to the York show. Pleased to post the following photo report of her continuing to find gainful employment on the Scottish Region.

 

 

 

 

I think it's going to take some prising to get her back to Carlisle 😂

One more thing, Graham.

 

Is that a Tri-ang horsebox as first vehicle behind the 'Duchess'? For its day (I had one as a boy; it had a cast metal chassis and 'open' axleboxes), I thought it rather nice. Does it represent a GWR type?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[PMP]

18 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

One more thing, Graham.

 

Is that a Tri-ang horsebox as first vehicle behind the 'Duchess'? For its day (I had one as a boy; it had a cast metal chassis and 'open' axleboxes), I thought it rather nice. Does it represent a GWR type?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

It’s certainly based on a GWR type, possibly iirc, an N13 or N14 diagram. (Sorry can’t recall the relevant diagram numbers).

Hornby currently do an excellent RTR version, and Parkside cover it with an equally excellent kit. You can also build a further version using a Parkside chassis and the Lima body which gives a further variety with the flat ends and an open droplight.