Wright writes.....

[MJI]

If you are struggling to find Mark 1 coaches at a easy price, buy old Triang ones, and cut and shut the sides, fit nice roof vents, and correct bogies.

 

Or old Lima and fit Comet sides.

[John Isherwood]

49 minutes ago, MJI said:

If you are struggling to find Mark 1 coaches at a easy price, buy old Triang ones, and cut and shut the sides, fit nice roof vents, and correct bogies.

 

Or old Lima and fit Comet sides.

 

Be aware that the bogie centres need relocating in the chassis moulding.

 

CJI.

[Tony Wright]

When Geoff Haynes delivered a painted 60158, I thought 'that makes a consecutive sequence of LB A1s'.

 

Four in this case - 60155-60158, including three of the roller bearing examples (I didn't see the other two). 

 

All are built from DJH kits (60155 started by MALLARD, Mr Duck), Ian Rathbone painting 60155/6 and Geoff Haynes painting 60157/58.

 

I have another consecutively-numbered set of A1s.........

 

 

This time a trio, again all built from DJH kits, Ian painting 60128 and 60130, Geoff painting 60129.

 

But the most consecutively-numbered is six...............

 

 

60116 (DJH/Wright/Rathbone), 60117 (DJH/Wright/Rathbone), 60118 (DJH/builder-painter unknown/mechanically rebuilt by me, renumbered/renamed by me/weathered by Geoff Haynes), 60119 (DJH/Wright/Haynes), 60120 (Pro-Scale/part the late Geoff Brewin/Wright/Foster) and 60121 (DJH/Wright/Haynes). 

 

Other consecutive A1 numbers are no more than in pairs. 

 

My intention (a bit daft?) is to have an example of every A1 I saw - over 30! It would be 'easy' to achieve that with RTR, but that's not for me. 

 

 

 

 

[MikeParkin65]

12 hours ago, Northmoor said:

The Princess came with a Q-kits diesel kit (incomplete, but worth it for what was there) in a job lot from Vectis Auctions.  It wouldn't be my recommendation for a first metal loco kit build!  

The J70, 15xx and 72xx were on a trade stand at ExpoEM - those who attended will know which one I mean - and had just been discounted at Sunday lunchtime.

 

Not all traders are buy low/sell high merchants; I think some - especially at specialist shows like ExpoEM - are basically doing what Tony does, if not actually donating to charity they are helping friends (or families of) clear out surplus.  The hosting club's sales stands are also good for bargains, although I've heard it said they can be hoovered up early by people who go home to list it all on eBay.  I'm sure they all pay the appropriate taxes on this.......

Another 'hunting ground' that benefits the hobby is the Erlestoke Manor Fund sales van on the Severn Valley Railway at Bewdley station. Normally open on weekends and often has second hand loco and stock kits at attractive prices (as well as older ready to run) plus huge amounts of second hand books and magazines most of which are well sorted into themes rather than just put on a shelf under the 'transport' heading like general charity shops do, 

[Dunsignalling]

I recently uncovered a time-worn Hornby Dublo 2-6-4T body that I picked up for three quid, years ago, in order to teach myself to use an airbrush and am preparing it ahead of finally doing so..

 

The idea was to be able to strip it and start again ad infinitum, but the remaining original paint is so far displaying an unexpected degree of tenacity....🤔

 

John

 

 

 

 

[Captain Kernow]

1 hour ago, Dunsignalling said:

The idea was to be able to strip it and start again ad infinitum, but the remaining original paint is so far displaying an unexpected degree of tenacity....🤔

I have used Nitromors in the past, although admittedly not with an old Hornby Dublo body.

 

[John Isherwood]

2 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

I have used Nitromors in the past, although admittedly not with an old Hornby Dublo body.

 

 

The old, pre-H&S, water-based Nitromors was very effective against Hornby Dublo's paintwork. I gather that the current stuff is about as effective as water!

 

Years ago, I stripped a HD 8F body with Nitromors - to reveal cast rivet detail that would have done justice to the Bismark!

 

CJI.

[Barry Ten]

8 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

The old, pre-H&S, water-based Nitromors was very effective against Hornby Dublo's paintwork. I gather that the current stuff is about as effective as water!

 

Years ago, I stripped a HD 8F body with Nitromors - to reveal cast rivet detail that would have done justice to the Bismark!

 

CJI.

 

 

I've got the opposite problem,  a Wrenn Castle where the paint is lifting off in flakes. Nothing for it but a complete repaint.

[Tony Wright]

I've tried a few 'different' shots on Little Bytham (though some will be familiar).

 

I'm not sure whether they all 'work', but here goes..............

 

 

A bit congested? 

 

Geoff Haynes' most-recent painting.

 

 

Three quarter rear going-away shots can work (mine and Geoff's work, again).

 

 

In both directions (my work and Ian Rathbone's this time).

 

 

The latest DJH A3/Wright/Haynes combo.

 

 

A view I should try more often?

 

 

Better the other way? 

 

Loco body (Bachmann) worked on by Geoff West, Comet chassis by me and a lovely Thompson semi-corridor lavatory composite (what a carriage's splendid description) by Tony Geary; a Comet kit, but now available RTR.

 

 

A really tight view as A3 DIAMOND JUBILEE (DJH/K's/Wright/Haynes) heads south on the Up afternoon Talisman.

 

Tiny specks of dust show up as stones/pebbles at 'sniffing distance'.

 

Do K2s score highly on various RTR wish-lists?

 

Selfishly (perhaps?), I really don't care since I have four I've built running on LB. 

 

Here are a couple, 'going away'............

 

 

61738 (London Road/Wright/Rathbone).

 

 

And 61760 (Nu-Cast/Wright/Haynes). 

 

I hope all the above shots are of some interest................

 

 

 

 

 

 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

17 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Do K2s score highly on various RTR wish-lists?

Fairly well up the chart, there or thereabouts where the J6 places.

 

The weird omission in GNR origin traction from RTR OO is any small tender loco which endured in service until general withdrawal of steam under BR. Because the 0-6-0 is the quintessential UK loco design, and I was first taught the meaning of the cab side numbers by my late Pa on this class, I favour the J6, but a model of either class would be very welcome.

[charlielynch]

Tony has encouraged me to post pictures of wagons that I've been building - I hope they are okay. Kits from 51L (Wizard) Ratio, Parkside, Slaters and a much toned-down Bachmann Midland Railway brake van. The Caledonian Railway cattle wagons are from True Line Models. The 'grand plan' is to eventually have a layout set in rural Southwest Scotland in the 1920s. 

[60027Merlin]

On 21/05/2024 at 11:00, James Fitzjames said:

Apparently, a model railway housed at Bo'ness has been 'torched' and some items stolen. Two men, aged between 20 and 40 are being sought. What on earth drives folk to do such things, especially grown adults? Unless it's to cover up the theft of selected items, which would make it all the more sinister

 

I attach a photo taken from a local media report of this truly shocking act of vandalism. Yet again one wonders about the state of human nature.

 

By going in to Google and typing in Bo'ness model railway fire you will find more details.

 

 

[Compound2632]

40 minutes ago, charlielynch said:

The 'grand plan' is to eventually have a layout set in rural Southwest Scotland in the 1920s. 

 

If you like variety of wagons, there's no better period to be modelling. One can have pre-grouping wagons still in pre-grouping livery, or in their new group livery, along with the earlier group standard designs. And thanks to the common user arrangements, they can come from any company, so long as they're ordinary opens and vans. 

[jwealleans]

I saw a series of photographs of a Scottish goods yard (possibly HR and the wagon identification was by Peter Tatlow?) in around 1920 fairly recently: can anyone remember where they were published?   They'd be very useful to @charlielynch, I'd have thought.

 

Edit: found it.   It was 1927, in fact, though I doubt things had evolved far in the interim.   It's in Railway Archive No. 30, March 2011.  Peter uses a series of Henry Casserley photographs of Inverness yard to look at the wagons present and their origins, then extrapolate into general comments on wagon distribution.

Edited May 23 by jwealleans

[Willie Whizz]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

…

 

Do K2s score highly on various RTR wish-lists?

 

Selfishly (perhaps?), I really don't care since I have four I've built running on LB. 

 

Here are a couple, 'going away'............

 

 

61738 (London Road/Wright/Rathbone).

 

 

And 61760 (Nu-Cast/Wright/Haynes). 

 

 

They do on mine!!!  Difficult to get a balanced stud of locomotives representing the ER lines in Nottinghamshire without K2s - and J6s too, though I did build (with some help on the chassis) a Nu-Cast one of the latter many years ago which has recently been somewhat refurbished. Fingers still firmly crossed therefore …

[maico]

On 05/09/2020 at 12:37, Barry Ten said:

 

But then you have the worry of overheating the spindle if you're not in and out quickly. Someone mentioned wadding damp tissue paper between the spindle and the motor, to absorb the heat - very good advice.

 

I've used pliers to cut spindles in the past, too, despite being assured (on this forum, but not this thread) that I must be lying because pliers couldn't possibly get through hardened steel.

 

I must admit my preferred method is to avoid cutting the spindle at all costs, unless totally necessary - even if the end of the shaft has to protrude through the firehole slightly.

 

Hand bolt cutters with leverage multiplication ratio of 1:30 can get through most things.

I've got the 200mm Gedore made in Austria. The German made Knipex GoBolt is similar.

 

 

[polybear]

3 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

The old, pre-H&S, water-based Nitromors was very effective against Hornby Dublo's paintwork. I gather that the current stuff is about as effective as water!

 

Years ago, I stripped a HD 8F body with Nitromors - to reveal cast rivet detail that would have done justice to the Bismark!

 

CJI.

 

This is the same as "old" Nitromors - it contains DCM so is now classed as "Trade Only"; basically this means that you should be both trade and also be trained to use it (hence the "tick box" during ordering).

Obviously getting it on your skin is a bad idea as you'll soon know about it; getting it in your eyes is somewhat worse.....

More importantly (and the reason why "old" Nitromors was reformulated to remove DCM) is it must be used in well ventilated areas; stripping a staircase then going to sleep in the house that night might just result in you not waking up next morning (there were several fatalities in IIRC Germany caused in a similar manner).

 

https://www.ktecproducts.co.uk/shop/paramose-water-washable-paint-varnish-remover-5-litres-thick

 

The same company also make & sell "Enviromose" paint stripper, which is much more friendly and is water based - but much slower and requires covering overnight etc.  I used it to strip an entire staircase and it worked very well so long as you followed the instructions and didn't rush the job.

I have wondered if it would effectively strip plastic bodyshells without damage - my gut feeling is yes but I've never tried it.  The company is very helpful so I'm sure a call would soon have the answer.

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, charlielynch said:

Tony has encouraged me to post pictures of wagons that I've been building - I hope they are okay. Kits from 51L (Wizard) Ratio, Parkside, Slaters and a much toned-down Bachmann Midland Railway brake van. The Caledonian Railway cattle wagons are from True Line Models. The 'grand plan' is to eventually have a layout set in rural Southwest Scotland in the 1920s. 

Good evening Charlie,

 

They're more than okay; thanks for posting.

 

I'll be posting you a few more wagons tomorrow, which fit into your time period. They're of no use to me, so you're welcome to them.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, 60027Merlin said:

 

I attach a photo taken from a local media report of this truly shocking act of vandalism. Yet again one wonders about the state of human nature.

 

By going in to Google and typing in Bo'ness model railway fire you will find more details.

 

 

It beggars belief, Eric.

 

No doubt all sorts of excuses will be offered for this kind of behaviour, though I accept none.

 

What chance of the culprits being apprehended? Don't count on it.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, maico said:

 

Hand bolt cutters with leverage multiplication ratio of 1:30 can get through most things.

I've got the 200mm Gedore made in Austria. The German made Knipex GoBolt is similar.

 

 

Good evening,

 

I grip the end of the armature firmly with pliers, then cut off the excess with a slitting disc in a mini drill - in nibbles.

 

The pliers' jaws firmly grip the shaft and also act as a heat sink.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[polybear]

30 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

It beggars belief, Eric.

 

No doubt all sorts of excuses will be offered for this kind of behaviour, though I accept none.

 

What chance of the culprits being apprehended? Don't count on it.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

And even if they are then will they get a just punishment?  Hardly.

 

 

 

[John Besley]

26 minutes ago, polybear said:

 

And even if they are then will they get a just punishment?  Hardly.

 

Tied to a tree and birched...Sounds a good plan or chop off their hands

[John Besley]

Reffering to A1's there looks to be an intresting article in Steam Railways this month ( out today)

[lezz01]

8 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

I recently uncovered a time-worn Hornby Dublo 2-6-4T body that I picked up for three quid, years ago, in order to teach myself to use an airbrush and am preparing it ahead of finally doing so..

 

The idea was to be able to strip it and start again ad infinitum, but the remaining original paint is so far displaying an unexpected degree of tenacity....🤔

 

John

 

 

 

 

Have you tried spraying it with cellulose paint? I know it sounds counterintuitive adding more paint to remove paint but It does work. I had painted a 1F in LMS plain black and wanted to repaint it in MR crimson lake so I just resprayed it with Damask red from the car spares shop but didn't realise that it was cellulose and it stripped the enamel paint and everything that wasn't metal straight off the 1F and left me with very shiny brass. Cellulose thinners works a treat as well but make sure there is no plastic involved on the model as it just turns it into a goo.

Regards Lez.  

[DougN]

On the topic of cheaper modelling. I had a good friend a large number of years ago push into my hands a kit he had started, a Alan Gibson Jinty. The comment was "do something with this". It was very generous. Unfortunately I looked at the poor kit years later, after my friend had passed away, taking pity on it I finished it. This build won a trophy the following year at the local modeler's convention. 

 

I have another loco which is beautifully built body and chassis of a LMS 2P (I suspect but don't know) which is also on my list of gifts from another to complete. For some reason the original chassis did not work. I do have for this a Bill Bedford chassis to complete. Hopeful I can match the chassis and the loco. By doing this I will have locos I would not normally build. 

 

It takes time to find and be lucky to gain kits that are on the fine scale end but can be had cheaply as people have started them or friends go "oh I found this you might like". So in some ways cheap modelling money wise but take some time to find and have extra challenges to complete.