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Wright writes.....


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3 hours ago, t-b-g said:

For a plastic van or carriage roof I use two layers of thinner plasticard (10 or 15 thou depending on how thick I want the edge to appear).

 

The first layer is cut with a scalpel at 1mm intervals along its length on the top surface. That causes it to curve naturally. That is then stuck to a false flat roof with two or more curved formers depending on the length of the vehicle.

 

The second layer is then stuck to the first with a light application of solvent around the edges. That covers up all the cut marks on the first layer.

 

I haven't got any photos of the process but here is a snap of a roof done that way.

 

1269508150_GECarriage001.jpg.c22f631ac4bb802ccf0f36a098c872ca.jpg

 

How do you induce the curve into the second, upper layer?

 

...... or do you simply clamp the longitudinal edges together and rely on the strength of the solvent joint?

 

Whatever, your photo shows a very neat roof indeed.

 

CJI.

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1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

 

How do you induce the curve into the second, upper layer?

 

...... or do you simply clamp the longitudinal edges together and rely on the strength of the solvent joint?

 

Whatever, your photo shows a very neat roof indeed.

 

CJI.

 

Thanks. 10 thou will go round the bend very easily. I glue it at one side with solvent and let it dry properly. Then I turn it upside down, so the curved surface is underneath and apply a little solvent at the ends, working the upper layer of roof round as I go. I then put solvent along the second side and hold that edge flat down on a surface like a cutting mat until it has stuck. The upper roof can be made oversized and trimmed back after the solvent has set. I find that easier than getting it exactly the right size and glueing it in exactly the right place.

 

It is easier to do than to explain!

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8 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

Not rolled, but heat formed. Here the plasticard is taped to a piece of brass tube; this is then plunged in a vat of hot water - just off the boil - for a few minutes.

 

A hot-air paint stripper/gun will also work, if the heat is kept down. 

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Ooh i have a plastic welder.

 

I used an empty wine bottle and placed in oven while cooling after a roast.

 

I will try the scribe method with 20 thou. But first hunt the plastic welder.

 

I need 2 more van roofs.

 

My DMUs use Triang roofs slightly modified.

 

The Early WR IC uses cameo 4 cut sides and cab ends overlays for intermediate cabs, interior partitions.

 

Resin and 3d printed underframe components.

 

Triang chassis and roof MJT bogies, Gibson wheels, and 2 lowriders.

 

One day i will finish it

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55 minutes ago, ScRSG said:

Remind us, please.

Chas

Hi Chas

 

I cut two or three depending on the length circular disc about 1.5mm less in diameter to the cylinder I want. I use 1mm thick plastic card. I cut three (or six if using three disc) rectangles of plastic card, one the length of the cylinder minus thickness of the disc by a width the same as the diameter. The other two are the same length by half the diameter and half the thickness of the other rectangle. I assemble the three rectangles to make an X and cement the disc on the ends.

 

Next stage, work out how much 0.5mm plastic card is needed to make the cylinder. I use 3x2πr = length required. I cut out rectangle cylinder length by the length of 0.5mm plastic card required. Place this rectangle on a soft surface with a firm backing, small cylinders I use my thigh. The fuel tanks was a folded shirt laid on the kitchen table. Using a round object of slightly smaller diameter than the cylinder I run it backwards and the other way  until the plastic card curls up.

 

Glue one end of the curly rectangle to edge of one the rectangles making the X, pulling tight work the curly rectangle around the disc applying solvent to each of the X edges as I go around it and the disc on the ends. Once it starts to over lap I then apply solvent along the working edge, pulling the plastic card tight as I can, not leaving any air bubbles or pools of solvent. If my maths is right it will go around 3 times. I wait about a day to allow the plastic card and solvent to settle down. I take a file to the edge of of the plastic card wrap, blending it in with the rest of the cylinder.

 

Like a cylinder rolled from brass it will not be 100% as there is a slight overlap, I put that at the bottom of things like boilers and tank wagons where it won't show. The fuel tanks, the seam is on the edge facing the adjacent tank. 

 

To write this took longer than making a cylinder for a tank wagon.

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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25 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

And now for something completely different!

 

322157008_AneModelsAli-Shan02.jpg.a6f3b462189a4442b365189526c33389.jpg

 

An Ane Models Ali-Shan narrow gauge diesel.

 

No, I don't know anything about it, either.

 

I'm sure that I read that one of these is to be 'borrowed' by the Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway.

 

John Isherwood.

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Hi Tony,

 

There is some information on the ane model website about the Ali-Shan Railway.

 

https://www.anemodel.com/ecommerce/model/hoe規-阿里山第六代dl內燃車頭-dl-39.html

 

It comes as a downloadable link in English. Very informative it is as well.

 

Look forwards to seeing your review.

 

Regards,

 

Mark 

Edited by 46444
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Thank you to everyone for the various methods of making tumblehomes. I will re-read the various posts and try out some ideas.
 

No sooner did I post than I was offered a new job that I really wanted, which is wonderful, but did distract me from modelling, so sorry if I haven’t responded before now.
 

Lots to plan for both the new job and the modelling, but thank you to everyone for posting your methods, for both brass and plasticard.
 

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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On 16/07/2022 at 01:01, St Enodoc said:

Photos when finished please!

 

It's the golden emperor dalek as featured in the TV Century 21 magazine/comic from the mid 60s. Probably many are unaware of it. Here's a pic of the kit (main parts just held together with tape and rubber band) before proper assembly. It's supplied with LEDs for the seven dome lights which I presume will need resistors added.

 

DSC03130crred.jpg.eaae841b7e7e46896056fffb9c236b7f.jpg

 

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12 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Despite the record-breaking temperatures, I've managed to do some modelling today (well, at least until late-morning). 

 

76721681_Nu-CastArmstrong03.jpg.e4b282293b89b8d170b74fc80cce101d.jpg

 

In response to my request, someone is sending me some old-style Romford fly-cranks for the Barnum. 

 

Is this not an Armstrong Goods? A Barnum is a 2-4-0 with curved frames, a nightmare to shape based on memories of building mine.

 

Looks good

 

Mike Wiltshire (18 degrees and raining down under)

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6 minutes ago, Coach bogie said:

Is this not an Armstrong Goods? A Barnum is a 2-4-0 with curved frames, a nightmare to shape based on memories of building mine.

 

It was an Armstrong Goods in earlier posts! Maybe the whitemetal has changed shape in the heat...

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20 minutes ago, Coach bogie said:

 

Is this not an Armstrong Goods? A Barnum is a 2-4-0 with curved frames, a nightmare to shape based on memories of building mine.

 

Looks good

 

Mike Wiltshire (18 degrees and raining down under)

You're quite right Mike,

 

Now altered. 

 

It's because I'm building a GC Barnum carriage as well that I got the nomenclature wrong. The faculties crumble!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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6 hours ago, grahame said:

 

It's the golden emperor dalek as featured in the TV Century 21 magazine/comic from the mid 60s. P

 

 

 

 

 

The emperor dalek used to show up in Dalek annuals in the 70s, too, which I imagine may have been

reprinted stories from TV21?

 

Here's another thing that featured in TV21. It was from the film Thunderbirds Are Go, but had its own regular

strip in the magazine. This was from a large resin kit with a lot of extra details and reworking.

 

zx39.jpg.65ee3ae7a0f4dd672dd014e34a93f482.jpg

 

Very different from railway modelling but a good way of learning new techniques and dodges.

 

Al

 

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5 hours ago, Clan Mcadder said:

I would be very intrigued in the celebration of the A4s , especially if its got some Lner era images inside . 

Out of the 144 pages, 64 show the class in LNER ownership, including wartime. If you count those in Garter Blue, but with BR numbers, there are several more.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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1 minute ago, Tony Wright said:

Out of the 144 pages, 64 show the class in LNER ownership, including wartime. If you count those in Garter Blue, but with BR numbers, there are several more.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Oh that's Excellent Tony ,thank you for letting me know.

 

especially  the war time images , a purchase is definitely happening .

 

Many thanks 

 

James 

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3 hours ago, Clan Mcadder said:

Oh that's Excellent Tony ,thank you for letting me know.

 

especially  the war time images , a purchase is definitely happening .

 

Many thanks 

 

James 

Good evening James,

 

I've been disingenuous with my first reply to you. There are no actual wartime images of A4s in the latest book (for obvious reasons), but there are several taken immediate post-War, with valances removed and with some in very shabby condition, still in LNER ownership. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening James,

 

I've been disingenuous with my first reply to you. There are no actual wartime images of A4s in the latest book (for obvious reasons), but there are several taken immediate post-War, with valances removed and with some in very shabby condition, still in LNER ownership. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Hi Tony , 

 

Even better , I find that for obvious reasons they are the harder images to track down of post war stock . 

 

most exhilarating  . 

 

Kind regards 

 

James 

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