Wright writes.....

[Iain.d]

10 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

I can't see any sign of the bolts in your photos, Iain - are they just very well disguised among the other gubbins? It seems like an excellent idea because I've never enjoyed fitting the roof on with glue.

 

Al

Hi Al,

 

Good point – kind of well spotted! I have taken some photos to try and better illustrate my method.

 

First off, I drill a 1mm hole through the aluminium roof and then use a taper broach to open it out so the bolt passes through with the minimum of slop (a 1½mm bit is too big), then I partly drill a hole with a 2mm bit from the top of the roof, as deeply as I can, but not passing through the roof – just feeling the tip of the bit on the underside of the roof tells me it is generally deep enough.

 

I only have cheesehead bolts so I reduce the diameter of the bolt head to fractionally <2mm and then lower the profile of the bolt head with a file so when in the hole, the head sits below the level of the roof. A tiny amount of glue (epoxy) is smeared under the head of the bolt and I then secure the bolt using a washer and bolt on the underside of the roof.

 

 

The cross beam that I solder between the sides of the carriage is cut to within smidgen of the right width and a hole drilled through the centre. A bit of filing ensues to fit the cross beam squarely between the sides, keeping the bolt perpendicular to the roof and hole over the centre of the roof line. I put a spacer (3 layers of cheap masking tape) between the flange on the aluminium roof and the top of the cross beam – this ensures the roof is tight at the cantrail – and then solder the cross beam in place.

 

 

A confirmatory check that all sits as it should. Once done I smear a bit more epoxy around the nut and bolt on the roof’s underside.

 

 

On the top of the roof, I try and hide the bolt hole with roof furniture. I was able to do that at the kitchen end of this vehicle. At the seating end I filled the small recess with filler and smoothed it flat.

 

 

And at a more normal viewing distance, it'll be lost under the paint.

 

 

Sorry for the long explanation – and if you’ve had to suck lots of eggs…mind you it is Easter…

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

[Iain.d]

10 hours ago, MJI said:

I don't think I would bother with the weld lines as they are very fine, unless you have very thin and narrow tape.

 

Look at some online photos, a lot of Mark 1 roofs are smooth.

 

And yes I do need to sand my Bachmann ones smooth.

Hi Martin, You're right but this vehicle is intended to sit in a rake between carriages that have prominent roof ribs (refurbished Hornby 1980s Stanier's) and to not put something on this Mk1 will, I think, draw attention to it. I will use thin and narrowly cut tape. Without wanting to re open the debate on roof ribs, its something I can live with.

 

Kind regards,

 

iain

[Bucoops]

2 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Hi Al,

 

Good point – kind of well spotted! I have taken some photos to try and better illustrate my method.

 

First off, I drill a 1mm hole through the aluminium roof and then use a taper broach to open it out so the bolt passes through with the minimum of slop (a 1½mm bit is too big), then I partly drill a hole with a 2mm bit from the top of the roof, as deeply as I can, but not passing through the roof – just feeling the tip of the bit on the underside of the roof tells me it is generally deep enough.

 

I only have cheesehead bolts so I reduce the diameter of the bolt head to fractionally <2mm and then lower the profile of the bolt head with a file so when in the hole, the head sits below the level of the roof. A tiny amount of glue (epoxy) is smeared under the head of the bolt and I then secure the bolt using a washer and bolt on the underside of the roof.

 

 

The cross beam that I solder between the sides of the carriage is cut to within smidgen of the right width and a hole drilled through the centre. A bit of filing ensues to fit the cross beam squarely between the sides, keeping the bolt perpendicular to the roof and hole over the centre of the roof line. I put a spacer (3 layers of cheap masking tape) between the flange on the aluminium roof and the top of the cross beam – this ensures the roof is tight at the cantrail – and then solder the cross beam in place.

 

 

A confirmatory check that all sits as it should. Once done I smear a bit more epoxy around the nut and bolt on the roof’s underside.

 

 

On the top of the roof, I try and hide the bolt hole with roof furniture. I was able to do that at the kitchen end of this vehicle. At the seating end I filled the small recess with filler and smoothed it flat.

 

 

And at a more normal viewing distance, it'll be lost under the paint.

 

 

Sorry for the long explanation – and if you’ve had to suck lots of eggs…mind you it is Easter…

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

 

Thank you - very neat and effective

[MJI]

5 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Hi Martin, You're right but this vehicle is intended to sit in a rake between carriages that have prominent roof ribs (refurbished Hornby 1980s Stanier's) and to not put something on this Mk1 will, I think, draw attention to it. I will use thin and narrowly cut tape. Without wanting to re open the debate on roof ribs, its something I can live with.

 

Kind regards,

 

iain

 

 

But then they are different.

 

Will be interesting to see the set

[30368]

9 hours ago, rjm said:

What a broad church this great thread is, thank you Tony, I love the range of great modelling shown here.

 

Totally agree, all is welcomed onto this thread and are treated with much help and advice. I generally agree that the rebuilt Bullied Pacifics were the last example of the type. You do some great work, the pictures are very evocative of, for me, Eastleigh shed, which I knew fairly well. Keep up the good work.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Tony Wright]

10 hours ago, rjm said:

At the oppoite end of the scale to modelling of the kind featured in this thread, I have been experimenting with my picture-making while stuck on bedrest, having been paralysed for many years and currently with a pressure sore.

 

I cannot get off the bed so placed a tray on the bedcover and propped my fancy new full frame camera on some folded trousers and a book, with fine tuning by folded tissues, hi tech stuff indeed. Got to get value out of my investment in the camera and lenses, in this case a Canon RP and RF 35mm macro.

 

On the tray I placed a second-hand renamed renumbered Hornby Clan, originally 35028 now 35018 'British India Line' , which was the first of the class rebuilt in 1956 and ran for many years after that with a 6,000 gallon tender. I like these models, they were the beginning of seriously good RTR steam models in Hornby at least... the WD 2-8-0 in Bachmann..

 

I also love the class of loco, the photos and painting of David Shepherd say it all with regard to their last years, together with many other great writers and photographers. 35018 was an early withdrawal in 1964. I think the 8P Merchant Navy in rebuilt form could be termed the last steam express design in Britain.

 

Then leaning off the bed I have my laptop sitting on my wheelchair, and I came up with this.... two pictures showing that you can enjoy model railways in almost any circumstance, in some way at least. I also have poor eyesight and just to add to the mix my right arm has no fine touch,, and thought I had too much camera shake with these photos to make somethiing of them, but a few showed promise.

 

Below 36018 at could almost be Eastleigh  then something of the atmosphere of 70A Nine Elms, liberties taken in every way. But satisfying because although bed-bound I could still create a picture....  (I did the same with the DJH B16/1). 

I am aware that 35018 had detail differences, sand box fillers, ejector piping shape and possibly other things but I did get the tender right. 

 

 

 

What a broad church this great thread is, thank you Tony, I love the range of great modelling shown here.

It just goes to show, that even in 'adversity', creativity can shine through.

 

Best regards,

 

Tony. 

[Jeepy]

7 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Hi Al,

 

Good point – kind of well spotted! I have taken some photos to try and better illustrate my method.

 

First off, I drill a 1mm hole through the aluminium roof and then use a taper broach to open it out so the bolt passes through with the minimum of slop (a 1½mm bit is too big), then I partly drill a hole with a 2mm bit from the top of the roof, as deeply as I can, but not passing through the roof – just feeling the tip of the bit on the underside of the roof tells me it is generally deep enough.

 

I only have cheesehead bolts so I reduce the diameter of the bolt head to fractionally <2mm and then lower the profile of the bolt head with a file so when in the hole, the head sits below the level of the roof. A tiny amount of glue (epoxy) is smeared under the head of the bolt and I then secure the bolt using a washer and bolt on the underside of the roof.

 

 

The cross beam that I solder between the sides of the carriage is cut to within smidgen of the right width and a hole drilled through the centre. A bit of filing ensues to fit the cross beam squarely between the sides, keeping the bolt perpendicular to the roof and hole over the centre of the roof line. I put a spacer (3 layers of cheap masking tape) between the flange on the aluminium roof and the top of the cross beam – this ensures the roof is tight at the cantrail – and then solder the cross beam in place.

 

 

A confirmatory check that all sits as it should. Once done I smear a bit more epoxy around the nut and bolt on the roof’s underside.

 

 

On the top of the roof, I try and hide the bolt hole with roof furniture. I was able to do that at the kitchen end of this vehicle. At the seating end I filled the small recess with filler and smoothed it flat.

 

 

And at a more normal viewing distance, it'll be lost under the paint.

 

 

Sorry for the long explanation – and if you’ve had to suck lots of eggs…mind you it is Easter…

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Thank you Iain, very well explained..... Keep up the lovely work! 

 

Best wishes, 

 

Jim. 

[Jol Wilkinson]

7 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Hi Al,

 

Good point – kind of well spotted! I have taken some photos to try and better illustrate my method.

 

First off, I drill a 1mm hole through the aluminium roof and then use a taper broach to open it out so the bolt passes through with the minimum of slop (a 1½mm bit is too big), then I partly drill a hole with a 2mm bit from the top of the roof, as deeply as I can, but not passing through the roof – just feeling the tip of the bit on the underside of the roof tells me it is generally deep enough.

 

I only have cheesehead bolts so I reduce the diameter of the bolt head to fractionally <2mm and then lower the profile of the bolt head with a file so when in the hole, the head sits below the level of the roof. A tiny amount of glue (epoxy) is smeared under the head of the bolt and I then secure the bolt using a washer and bolt on the underside of the roof.

 

 

The cross beam that I solder between the sides of the carriage is cut to within smidgen of the right width and a hole drilled through the centre. A bit of filing ensues to fit the cross beam squarely between the sides, keeping the bolt perpendicular to the roof and hole over the centre of the roof line. I put a spacer (3 layers of cheap masking tape) between the flange on the aluminium roof and the top of the cross beam – this ensures the roof is tight at the cantrail – and then solder the cross beam in place.

 

 

A confirmatory check that all sits as it should. Once done I smear a bit more epoxy around the nut and bolt on the roof’s underside.

 

 

On the top of the roof, I try and hide the bolt hole with roof furniture. I was able to do that at the kitchen end of this vehicle. At the seating end I filled the small recess with filler and smoothed it flat.

 

 

And at a more normal viewing distance, it'll be lost under the paint.

 

 

Sorry for the long explanation – and if you’ve had to suck lots of eggs…mind you it is Easter…

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

 

I have used extruded aluminium roofs on a number of LNWR carriages and retained them by fitting a couple of brass rectangles between the roof flanges. Brass nuts are soldered in place over central holes in the rectangles and long brass screws pass up through the coach floor to retain the roof.

 

The rectangles are made very slightly too wide so are sprung into place, forming a very slight arch and then epoxied in place. 

[30368]

Since we are on a coach building slant at the moment. Can I just ask a quick question re extruded aluminium roofs?

 

I am building my first coach kit for a friend in return for a rake of Wulrus CE bogie vehicles. The kit is a Roxey ex SECR 60ft Push-Pull Driving Trailer. Lots of repartition but that the nature of coaches I guess. He has supplied some suitable extruded roof sections and plans to retain them with magnets (I assume glued onto the roof edge with similar glued to the vehicle ends. I have absolutely no Knowledge of this approach. Any suggestions/experiences/tips are welcome. Many thanks.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Jeepy]

50 minutes ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

 

I have used extruded aluminium roofs on a number of LNWR carriages and retained them by fitting a couple of brass rectangles between the roof flanges. Brass nuts are soldered in place over central holes in the rectangles and long brass screws pass up through the coach floor to retain the roof.

 

The rectangles are made very slightly too wide so are sprung into place, forming a very slight arch and then epoxied in place. 

Hello Jol, 

 

Could i ask please? Do the rectangles you describe go across the underside of the roof from flange to flange and if so do they flex when you tighten the bolt up through the floor or are they of sufficient thickness to be quite stiff? Or maybe fixed in the middle too? Thank you, 

 

Best wishes, 

 

Jim. 

[Barry Ten]

8 hours ago, Iain.d said:

 

 

Sorry for the long explanation – and if you’ve had to suck lots of eggs…mind you it is Easter…

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

 

Many thanks, Iain, that's very clearly illustrated indeed. Thanks for taking the trouble.

 

There's indeed a rather nice egg waiting to be scoffed!

[Iain.d]

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

Since we are on a coach building slant at the moment. Can I just ask a quick question re extruded aluminium roofs?

 

I am building my first coach kit for a friend in return for a rake of Wulrus CE bogie vehicles. The kit is a Roxey ex SECR 60ft Push-Pull Driving Trailer. Lots of repartition but that the nature of coaches I guess. He has supplied some suitable extruded roof sections and plans to retain them with magnets (I assume glued onto the roof edge with similar glued to the vehicle ends. I have absolutely no Knowledge of this approach. Any suggestions/experiences/tips are welcome. Many thanks.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Hi Richard,

 

I’ve only ever known Roxey kits to come with a plastic moulded roof – some of their sides used to be moulded plastic too, hence the name Roxey Mouldings.

 

I find Roxey plastic roofs quite tricky to cut and fit and did once consider using an extruded aluminium roof from Comet on a Roxey SR Maunsell carriage but the profile just didn’t look right, and it looked too heavy for the carriage. I’ve done eight Roxey coaches and used nuts and bolts to secure the roofs on all of them; magnets to secure might be an option but my thought would be only if the roof is a nice easy comfortable fit. None of the Roxey’s I’ve built had been easy fits and I doubt that a magnet would hold the roof place the same way a more secure fixing would - at least on my builds.

 

It would be interesting to see how you go with aluminium roofs.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

[Iain.d]

Having had a busy day doing stuff around the house, I’ve now had chance to sit down, have a cup of tea and finish off a bag of small Easter eggs and show the progress on another current project: a Comet Coaches Stove R.

 

The underside has lots of bits, it's not all correct or all in the right place but I think its close enough. The brake pull/push rod is just ‘placed’ for the photo, it’ll be soldered after the wheel sets are painted. I've yet to fix the brake pipes and the steam heating pipes. I don't think this had steam heating (hence the stove) but I imagine it had 'through' steam heat piping for use if marshalled between the loco and carriages.

 

 

I’m quite pleased with how it looks so far, not having much of a test track, it will traverse facing points and go around a 3ft radius curve; if I ever build a layout, I hope it won’t need too much fettling or adjusting.

 

 

Its ready for painting with everything pretty much done, I need to add roof ribs and I’ll also cut and fold up some card, from a cereal packet, to act as a former/holder/support/masking device thingy to sit in between the sides.

 

All 12 windows needed bars to protect the glass; six fixed windows each with three vertical bars and six droplights each with four horizontal bars. I thought the easiest way to get these consistent would be to build a simple template. So I drew some lines on card where I wanted everything to go and then stuck some double sided tape over the lines. The bars are .45mm nickel silver wire and the supports are bits of brass off cut, 13mm apart for the vertical ones. The horizontal bars only need one side support. The ‘extra long’ brass offcuts are loose and just to stop my fingers bending (and moving/deforming) the bars when soldering.

 

 

And then after cutting and tidying up.

 

 

These have now been chemically blackened and the glass cut; for the vertical bars the glass is cut to 12mm to sit neatly between the top and bottom supports.

 

I currently seem to be fascinated by 6-wheel carriages and NPCSS; last year I cut down a Ratio MR Clerestory Third and converted it into a 6-wheel departmental vehicle and I’ve just a bought a Thompson BZ kit from ‘macgeordie’ for no other reason than I wanted one! Also, last year I purchased a couple of Mousa Models S&DJR 6 wheel kits and I’m in the early stages of scratch building two S&DJR 6 wheel brake vans!

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

[30368]

1 hour ago, Iain.d said:

I’ve only ever known Roxey kits to come with a plastic moulded roof – some of their sides used to be moulded plastic too, hence the name Roxey Mouldings.

 

Hi Iain,

 

Many thanks for the info. Yes, I have other Roxey kits of my own to build and they all come with plastic sides and roof. This kit has a plastic roof too but the guy I am building it for wishes to fit the extruded roof. I think he wants to use the magnetic fixing so that he can remove the roof easily to fit the interior that he wishes to fit. I guess the easiest solution is to complete the body, chassis and roof and return the lot to him for completion.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Jol Wilkinson]

2 hours ago, Jeepy said:

Hello Jol, 

 

Could i ask please? Do the rectangles you describe go across the underside of the roof from flange to flange and if so do they flex when you tighten the bolt up through the floor or are they of sufficient thickness to be quite stiff? Or maybe fixed in the middle too? Thank you, 

 

Best wishes, 

 

Jim. 

Jim,

 

yes, the rectangles do go across the underside of the roof from flange to flange. They are only very slighter wider than the gap to get a gentle arch so don't exert a lot of side pressure when fitted but enough to help keep them locked in place. I put them about 25% of the coach length in from the ends (subject to partitions locations, etc) to spread their pull down along the roof. The screws don't need to be very tight to hold them in place and get a close fit as shown in the attached.

 

Jol.

 

 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

One job I should have got on with much quicker with is an Alan Gibson 'Buffalo', being built for a client of Geoff Haynes.

 

 

I started it a little while ago, but waited before proceeding too much until Geoff had built the chassis (it's compensated, with friction-fit drivers!).

 

 

Progress henceforth should be pretty rapid, though the two-piece cast saddle was an awful fit. Still, the etches appear to be excellent.

 

I built a couple of Gibson 'Buffalos' many years ago now for a customer in Bristol; I might even have written them up in BRM. Does anyone remember?

[Tony Wright]

I've just completed a piece for BRM with regard to the fitting of loco lamps (a pet subject of mine!).

 

 

They certainly aid realism (Sanford and Banwell in P4). 

 

But, in 2mm Scale, at a distance, is their omission visible? The magical Chee Tor. 

 

 

[MJI]

The problems with modelling from photos, the gas cabinets here are too big, I will reprint next weekend at 9.5mm high rather than 10.5.

 

 

I just glue the roofs on with a good epoxy.

 

 

These two pictures show craft cutters, 3D printing and etched brass kits.

 

I am craft cutting all the interiors on the Comet kits as easier than their brass bits.

 

Sillouette Cameo 4

Elegoo Mars 2 Pro

 

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

One job I should have got on with much quicker with is an Alan Gibson 'Buffalo', being built for a client of Geoff Haynes.

 

 

I started it a little while ago, but waited before proceeding too much until Geoff had built the chassis (it's compensated, with friction-fit drivers!).

 

 

Progress henceforth should be pretty rapid, though the two-piece cast saddle was an awful fit. Still, the etches appear to be excellent.

 

I built a couple of Gibson 'Buffalos' many years ago now for a customer in Bristol; I might even have written them up in BRM. Does anyone remember?

You don't have to worry about the friction fit drivers on this one but you might worry about the cranks....

[Jeepy]

3 hours ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

Jim,

 

yes, the rectangles do go across the underside of the roof from flange to flange. They are only very slighter wider than the gap to get a gentle arch so don't exert a lot of side pressure when fitted but enough to help keep them locked in place. I put them about 25% of the coach length in from the ends (subject to partitions locations, etc) to spread their pull down along the roof. The screws don't need to be very tight to hold them in place and get a close fit as shown in the attached.

 

Jol.

 

 

 

 

Thank you Jol, 

 

That makes sense, making them slightly longer so they bend with the arc of the roof, and then i expect it's just a case of 'gently does it' when tightening the bolts....... Great stuff! 

 

Best wishes, 

 

Jim. 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

You don't have to worry about the friction fit drivers on this one but you might worry about the cranks....

Good evening Mike,

 

It's Geoff's 'worry', not mine.

 

We have an agreement. Anything using Romford/Markits wheels, I'll build completely. Anything else is up to him.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

5 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Having had a busy day doing stuff around the house, I’ve now had chance to sit down, have a cup of tea and finish off a bag of small Easter eggs and show the progress on another current project: a Comet Coaches Stove R.

 

The underside has lots of bits, it's not all correct or all in the right place but I think its close enough. The brake pull/push rod is just ‘placed’ for the photo, it’ll be soldered after the wheel sets are painted. I've yet to fix the brake pipes and the steam heating pipes. I don't think this had steam heating (hence the stove) but I imagine it had 'through' steam heat piping for use if marshalled between the loco and carriages.

 

 

I’m quite pleased with how it looks so far, not having much of a test track, it will traverse facing points and go around a 3ft radius curve; if I ever build a layout, I hope it won’t need too much fettling or adjusting.

 

 

Its ready for painting with everything pretty much done, I need to add roof ribs and I’ll also cut and fold up some card, from a cereal packet, to act as a former/holder/support/masking device thingy to sit in between the sides.

 

All 12 windows needed bars to protect the glass; six fixed windows each with three vertical bars and six droplights each with four horizontal bars. I thought the easiest way to get these consistent would be to build a simple template. So I drew some lines on card where I wanted everything to go and then stuck some double sided tape over the lines. The bars are .45mm nickel silver wire and the supports are bits of brass off cut, 13mm apart for the vertical ones. The horizontal bars only need one side support. The ‘extra long’ brass offcuts are loose and just to stop my fingers bending (and moving/deforming) the bars when soldering.

 

 

And then after cutting and tidying up.

 

 

These have now been chemically blackened and the glass cut; for the vertical bars the glass is cut to 12mm to sit neatly between the top and bottom supports.

 

I currently seem to be fascinated by 6-wheel carriages and NPCSS; last year I cut down a Ratio MR Clerestory Third and converted it into a 6-wheel departmental vehicle and I’ve just a bought a Thompson BZ kit from ‘macgeordie’ for no other reason than I wanted one! Also, last year I purchased a couple of Mousa Models S&DJR 6 wheel kits and I’m in the early stages of scratch building two S&DJR 6 wheel brake vans!

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Great work Iain,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Little Bytham has a Comet Stove R...........

 

 

Built/painted/weathered by John Houlden. It used to run on Gamston Bank.

 

 

This is the (already sold) example from the recent collection of Lawrence/Goddard carriages. It was built on commission for the late Paul Bromige some 30 years ago, but from what kit source I don't know.

 

Stove Rs seem a popular prototype. Hornby Dublo made one years ago (a collectors' items now?) and I believe an example was produced RTR for one of the magazines some time ago (with a very strange chassis). I don't have a picture of either.

 

The N Gauge Society had one produced some little time ago......

 

 

 

In at least four different liveries (the lower picture shows the difficulty in keeping all six wheels on the track!). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[robertcwp]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Great work Iain,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Little Bytham has a Comet Stove R...........

 

 

Built/painted/weathered by John Houlden. It used to run on Gamston Bank.

 

 

This is the (already sold) example from the recent collection of Lawrence/Goddard carriages. It was built on commission for the late Paul Bromige some 30 years ago, but from what kit source I don't know.

 

Stove Rs seem a popular prototype. Hornby Dublo made one years ago (a collectors' items now?) and I believe an example was produced RTR for one of the magazines some time ago (with a very strange chassis). I don't have a picture of either.

 

The N Gauge Society had one produced some little time ago......

 

 

 

In at least four different liveries (the lower picture shows the difficulty in keeping all six wheels on the track!). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

A 00 RTR Stove R was produced for Hornby Magazine but not by Hornby. I think it might have been Dapol. It was a pretty poor model. 

 

I don't recall ever having seen a photo of a Stove R in crimson and cream. I thought they were generally plain (or in the early days lined) crimson in the early BR years.

 

I too have a John Houlden Stove R ex-Gamston Bank. It's Comet and much better than the RTR effort.

Edited April 18, 2022 by robertcwp
Typo.

[Tony Wright]

50 minutes ago, robertcwp said:

A 00 RTR Stove R was produced for Hornby Magazine but not by Hornby. I think it might have been Dapol. It was a pretty poor model. 

 

I don't recall ever having seen a photo of a Stove R in crimson and cream. I thought they were generally plain (or in the early days lined) crimson in the early BR years.

 

I too have a John Houlden Stove R ex-Gamston Bank. It's Comet and much better than the RTR effort.

I don't know Robert,

 

But it seems odd that the N Gauge Society would produce a model in that livery if the colour scheme never existed on a Stove R. One assumes research had been done..........

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Chas Levin]

7 hours ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

Jim,

 

yes, the rectangles do go across the underside of the roof from flange to flange. They are only very slighter wider than the gap to get a gentle arch so don't exert a lot of side pressure when fitted but enough to help keep them locked in place. I put them about 25% of the coach length in from the ends (subject to partitions locations, etc) to spread their pull down along the roof. The screws don't need to be very tight to hold them in place and get a close fit as shown in the attached.

 

Jol.

Beautifully simple and effective idea Jol, I shall try it on a future project!