Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

Another modeller's death, and another bereaved family.....

 

I've not long been asked if I can help in finding new homes for some 70 Lawrence/Goddard ex-LMS coaches (of all diagrams), built in OO Gauge and painted in carmine/cream. Asking Barry Oliver, he tells me that these types of things seem to go for between £100.00 and £200.00, dependent on accuracy and condition (all are in excellent condition). I'll be posting a list later, but some articulated types are included.

 

There are also some 30 kit-built locos, of ex-LMS or BR Standard origin, all in BR condition. Again, I'll be posting a list, but they include ex-MR types, ex-LTSR types, ex-L&Y types, ex-FR types and ex-LNWR types, as well as LMS-built classes and the BR Standards. Most have Portescap motors and several have been professionally-painted. Most were built by the late Paul Bromige of Wolverhampton. 

 

Once I've got them, I'll post pictures, post the lists, advise prices and invite offers of interest..........

 

Of course, 10% of all sales will go to CRUK. 

Edited April 7, 2022 by Tony Wright
to add something

[Dylan Sanderson]

17 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Lovely Dylan,

 

I'd forgotten this one. 

 

Please, at some future point, change those bogie wheels!

 

By the way, I've still got your under-construction Britannia here. You left it with me at Doncaster, then forgot to collect it. When you next visit.............

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Hi Tony,

 

I didn't forget, I just thought you'd like to borrow her for the Sunday as well as Saturday 🙂

 

I need to message you soon about a Semaphore issue I've got, if that's ok. Are you attending Statfold Exhibition this weekend?

 

Many thanks,

Dylan

[5 C]

13 hours ago, Northmoor said:

As clear a demo as any, Tony, that factory weathering is NOT worth the money. 

 

It looks like road dirt on a car driven in an agricultural area (with light clay soil) after a wet spell.  The colour is all wrong and where is the weathering on the boiler? It's still shiny.

 

Tom's weathering is such that if you pick the loco up you'd check your fingertips afterwards, it just looks like real dirt and grime.

I completely agree with @Northmoor 's description of factory weathering. Most (if not all) factory weathered finishes seem to follow this pattern. I find them completely unconvincing when compared to contemporary colour photographs of the real thing - variations caused by film stock, printing processes, computer screens etc. notwithstanding.

 

In their quest for greater realism, it seems odd that manufacturers have such a - dare I say - lazy approach to something that has a more visible effect on a model's appearance than some of the often fragile, separately fitted detail.

 

On the plus side, factory weathered locos seem to be less desirable in the used market place than their non-weathered counterparts. Not so good if you're a seller but great if you're a buyer in search of a cheap source of spares (the weathering on the mechanical parts seems to clean off quite easily) or the basis of a project.

[landscapes]

Hi Tony

 

I have only just managed to get back onto RMWeb as I lost access to the Layout Topics and Modelling Musing & Miscellany sections for some unknown reason for the past two or three days.

 

I must say Andy York has been incredibly helpful and very patient in trying to resolve my issue.

 

if not to late a few photos showing my own two B1 Models, both are the Hornby RTR B1 models with 61025 Pallah being renamed and numbered by myself but I cannot remember the models original number.

 

Regards

 

David

[MikeParkin65]

32 minutes ago, 5 C said:

I completely agree with @Northmoor 's description of factory weathering. Most (if not all) factory weathered finishes seem to follow this pattern. I find them completely unconvincing when compared to contemporary colour photographs of the real thing - variations caused by film stock, printing processes, computer screens etc. notwithstanding.

 

In their quest for greater realism, it seems odd that manufacturers have such a - dare I say - lazy approach to something that has a more visible effect on a model's appearance than some of the often fragile, separately fitted detail.

 

On the plus side, factory weathered locos seem to be less desirable in the used market place than their non-weathered counterparts. Not so good if you're a seller but great if you're a buyer in search of a cheap source of spares (the weathering on the mechanical parts seems to clean off quite easily) or the basis of a project.

Most rtr weathering from metal or plastic is easily removed by gentle application of t-cut on a cotton bud. 

[St Enodoc]

18 hours ago, robertcwp said:

Didn't Peters Spares make some replacement gear wheel sets for Hornby locos?

I need a set for my Hornby 38xx but they're out of stock at the moment - only temporarily, I hope (unless Andrew @Woodcock29 would like to have a go at fixing it...).

[Barry Ten]

21 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

Strangely, almost all manifestations of the split gear syndrome seem to come after a period of disuse, I've only had a couple of cases where one has "obviously" let go when a loco was running. 

 

 

This was a particularly odd case as I would say that the interval between running well and not running could only have been two or three months. I just took the loco off its regular train, parked it in the fiddle yard, and left it. When I next put it on the track, it would only run jerkily with the characteristic stiffness at a certain point in each wheel rotation.

[Barry Ten]

19 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Regarding split gears on (particularly) Hornby locos, such cases are brought regularly to me at shows (prior to lockdown and, now, afterwards); at least two locos per show on average. Is this acceptable? All I do is recommend Peter's Spares, or get in touch with Hornby. 

 

When David West popped over last week, running his detailed/weathered Hornby A2/2, after a circuit of LB on (admittedly) a heavy train, the most alarming grinding noises were heard, the loco just stopped dead and its motor whirred away to no traction effect! Another split gear! 

 

 

 

Without wanting to doubt your diagnosis, Tony, was it definitely a split gear? It does sound like the other common Hornby fault where the motor mount either fractures or works loose, or is loose to begin with, leading to disengagement of the worm from the top gear, a hideous noise and little or no wheel movement.

[davidw]

3 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Without wanting to doubt your diagnosis, Tony, was it definitely a split gear? It does sound like the other common Hornby fault where the motor mount either fractures or works loose, or is loose to begin with, leading to disengagement of the worm from the top gear, a hideous noise and little or no wheel movement.

Its back with Hornby. Most irritatingly, this was its first major run. Investigation at home looked like the driving wheels had slipped on their axle!

Edited April 7, 2022 by davidw

[Tony Wright]

6 hours ago, Dylan Sanderson said:

Hi Tony,

 

I didn't forget, I just thought you'd like to borrow her for the Sunday as well as Saturday 🙂

 

I need to message you soon about a Semaphore issue I've got, if that's ok. Are you attending Statfold Exhibition this weekend?

 

Many thanks,

Dylan

Good afternoon Dylan,

 

I'm not at Statfold this weekend. Friends are coming over to run the railway. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Without wanting to doubt your diagnosis, Tony, was it definitely a split gear? It does sound like the other common Hornby fault where the motor mount either fractures or works loose, or is loose to begin with, leading to disengagement of the worm from the top gear, a hideous noise and little or no wheel movement.

Good afternoon Al,

 

I was speculating as to the cause; whatever it was, it completely disabled the loco.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Clem]

Just a quick update. My new camera has arrived! It hasn't taken me long to start shooting and here are a couple of photos for comparison with the previous two posted a couple of days ago:

 

 

I think there's a definite improvement on the depth of field, the resolution and thus also, the quality. Obviously with any new technical addition, there is a learning curve but having a 20 year old Canon before also meant that the setting up of the shots wasn't that different. For anyone interested the basic settings were: ISO 1000, Aperture F29 (as high as I could get with the lens - I'm using my old 18-135mm for the moment), and shutter speed of  1.6". The only problem with having a decent camera for photographing the layout is how it shows up all the flaws!

[Tony Wright]

I enjoyed seeing Robb's worked-on picture of the B16/1 he bought. 

 

Bytham currently has four B16s. There used to be two more, but I sold them on. 

 

 

This B16/1 was built/painted/weathered by Tony Geary, using a DJH kit as a 'starting point' (he built an entirely new boiler for it). It's one of the most-natural locomotives I've seen and it's a privilege to now own it. All I've done to it is to replace the bogie wheels with the correct NER-style 12-spoke types. 

 

 

Originally built by Mike Edge from a PDK kit for Tom Foster, this B16/2 is also very-natural. Mike did a lot of extra work on the motion.

 

Unfortunately, for whatever reason, it sounded like a lumberjacks' convention when running (DS10 and straight Romford gears). I replaced the racket-maker with a DJH combo (the visual running was already perfect). I replaced the bogie wheels with the correct 12-spoked type, and I also stuffed the body full of lead. The result: a perfect, quiet and powerful runner (a testament to the wonderful original construction). 

 

It was originally painted by Tim Easter in early BR guise - plain black with BR number but still with LNER on the tender (or was it the other way round?). Tom decided to change the period to the late-'50s, so I stripped it, repainted it and lined/lettered it. Tom then weathered it.

 

It, too, is now my property. 

 

 

My first B16 was built well over 40 years ago when the Nu-Cast kit first appeared. All my work, I scratch-built a brass chassis for it (not even contemplating using the white metal lump supplied), using the Nu-Cast motion. The motor, an MW005 was the preferred power source of the day. 

 

Because its Hamblings' driving wheels' flanges are too deep for Bytham's scenic-side C&L pointwork, it now just lives in a drawer. 

 

In the past, however.................

 

 

It saw regular service on Stoke Summit.

 

 

My latest B16/3, also built from a Nu-Cast kit. Geoff Haynes painted this one, based on a picture of one just shopped at Darlington. 

 

I acquired it from the estate of the late Roy Jackson (who, I assume, had started it). The tender body was mainly built, and I made a sub-frame for it. 

 

The body had been started and then dismantled (there was evidence of low-melt solder). It also had (naturally?) an EM set of frames, but no wheels.

 

As far as I can recall, I gave the EM frames to Sandra Orpen (who now owns Retford) and then scratch-built an OO set (employing the Nu-Cast cylinders/motion). I then rebuilt the whole loco body.

 

Closer inspection reveals that the tender looks to be a bit too low in the tanks (a smaller NER tender from another kit?). The loco footplate and the tender's soleplate just about line up, so................ I'll put some washers on the top of the subframe. That should do the trick; at least in part.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by Tony Wright
to add something

[Tony Wright]

As promised earlier...........

 

 

How I ballast Bachmann B1 bodies and Comet chassis.

 

The inside of the cab roof is also lined with lead. 

 

 

[Dunsignalling]

2 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

This was a particularly odd case as I would say that the interval between running well and not running could only have been two or three months. I just took the loco off its regular train, parked it in the fiddle yard, and left it. When I next put it on the track, it would only run jerkily with the characteristic stiffness at a certain point in each wheel rotation.

I've had a couple of Rebuilt WCs and the Standard 4-6-0 that went just that way. The 4MT wouldn't even limp, it ran onto shed quite normally the last time we did any test running, but refused to move at all when I attempted to take it out again about three months later.

 

They almost never seem to fail when actually running, which is very odd. 

 

John

[coronach]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

As promised earlier...........

 

 

How I ballast Bachmann B1 bodies and Comet chassis.

 

The inside of the cab roof is also lined with lead. 

 

 

Thank you Tony. That is very helpful

[zr2498]

An update on the lattice girder deck bridge

 

 

Walkways have been made (steelwork thus far), and the wooden deck will be added after painting.

Like so with real wood, but most likely without the policeman!

 

 

The painting of the walkways needs to be done

 

 

I could do with some advice on this please.

Up to now I have painting all brass (cellulose based etching primer to start), or all styrene using acrylic based primer via airbrush.

As the walkways are mixed materials what is best to use as a primer. The styrene is no issue with acrylic but will that adhere to the brass wire sufficiently well?

 

[MikeParkin65]

4 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

I've had a couple of Rebuilt WCs and the Standard 4-6-0 that went just that way. The 4MT wouldn't even limp, it ran onto shed quite normally the last time we did any test running, but refused to move at all when I attempted to take it out again about three months later.

 

They almost never seem to fail when actually running, which is very odd. 

 

John

I’ve 2 of the first batch of the current Britannia  - 70008 and 70052 that I stored from new in 2007. Decided to put them into service last year and both were locked solid. Took 70052 to pieces and the problem was that the grease in the gears had gone hard and the bearings were bone dry. Cleaned and relubed everything and its now a sweet and strong runner. Haven’t got round to 70008 yet. Have a more recent 70044 which refuses to run smoothly at low speeds. Have stripped and lubed that but no change so now have a new motor on order. 

[APOLLO]

I find many new locos (Hornby, Bachmann) are somewhat frail in the build & running department. Very questionable value for money for models costing up and over £200. The nylon gear problem has been known for years, wrong type of nylon used, not allowed to "age" before cutting etc. I've had problems with certain Weaver North American locos nylon gears, happily good replacements are / were available from a model shop in the USA by mail order. And don't even mention Mazak - surley a PPE style mis selling scandal !!!!!!!!!!

 

People mock Lima - I have never had a Lima (OO)  gear fail. 80's Hornby locos also. I have a pair of 1980's Hornby 25's, straight out of the box and run superbly, smooth, quiet and powerful. Like cockroaches you cannot destroy them !!!!

 

I run all my locos regularly and very lightly lubricate the gears with a light oil (not grease) yearly or so. I use an electrolube pen, which seems to be no longer available. Any alternatives ?

 

Brit15

 

 

 

 

[Northmoor]

13 minutes ago, APOLLO said:

People mock Lima - I have never had a Lima (OO)  gear fail. 80's Hornby locos also. I have a pair of 1980's Hornby 25's, straight out of the box and run superbly, smooth, quiet and powerful. Like cockroaches you cannot destroy them !!!!

Lima drives are notoriously noisy (and inconsistently so) but with improved pick-ups can be decent runners.

I actually did get a Lima 33's secondary gear to fail in my youth, but that might be because it had a section of roofing lead laid over it and it was dragging about 25 coaches around our layout.....

[Woodcock29]

11 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I need a set for my Hornby 38xx but they're out of stock at the moment - only temporarily, I hope (unless Andrew @Woodcock29 would like to have a go at fixing it...).

John

I'll a look to see what gears I have at present.

Andrew

[St Enodoc]

7 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Without wanting to doubt your diagnosis, Tony, was it definitely a split gear? It does sound like the other common Hornby fault where the motor mount either fractures or works loose, or is loose to begin with, leading to disengagement of the worm from the top gear, a hideous noise and little or no wheel movement.

Yes, with split gears the whole thing usually jams up solid.

[St Enodoc]

8 minutes ago, Woodcock29 said:

John

I'll a look to see what gears I have at present.

Andrew

Thanks. X6201 is the part number. Another RMwebber has suggested Lendon's of Cardiff, so I'll try there too.

[Chuffer Davies]

40 minutes ago, APOLLO said:

I find many new locos (Hornby, Bachmann) are somewhat frail in the build & running department. Very questionable value for money for models costing up and over £200. The nylon gear problem has been known for years, wrong type of nylon used, not allowed to "age" before cutting etc. I've had problems with certain Weaver North American locos nylon gears, happily good replacements are / were available from a model shop in the USA by mail order. And don't even mention Mazak - surley a PPE style mis selling scandal !!!!!!!!!!

 

People mock Lima - I have never had a Lima (OO)  gear fail. 80's Hornby locos also. I have a pair of 1980's Hornby 25's, straight out of the box and run superbly, smooth, quiet and powerful. Like cockroaches you cannot destroy them !!!!

 

I run all my locos regularly and very lightly lubricate the gears with a light oil (not grease) yearly or so. I use an electrolube pen, which seems to be no longer available. Any alternatives ?

 

Brit15

 

 

 

 

You are lucky that you haven't had issues with using Electrolube because it is a very good electrical conductor and can cause shorts if used incorrectly,  You might try Eillen's Emporium as a provider of alternative lubricant solutions.  The dispenser on this link looks like a possible alternative to the Electrolube dispenser. www.eilensemporium.com/materals-for-modellers/product/precision-oiler/category_pathway-1109    .

Frank

 

[Tony Wright]

7 hours ago, Chuffer Davies said:

You are lucky that you haven't had issues with using Electrolube because it is a very good electrical conductor and can cause shorts if used incorrectly,  You might try Eillen's Emporium as a provider of alternative lubricant solutions.  The dispenser on this link looks like a possible alternative to the Electrolube dispenser. www.eilensemporium.com/materals-for-modellers/product/precision-oiler/category_pathway-1109    .

Frank

 

Good morning Frank,

 

With regard to Electrolube, as you probably know, it should not be used anywhere Romford/Markits insulated driving wheels. The insulation is no more than a paper ring between the wheel centre and the tyre (just visible as a thin brown layer). Electrolube will be absorbed by this, causing a short circuit. I once had a beautifully-built 'Crab' in my hands where this had occurred, rendering it in need of a completely need set of (expensive) drivers. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.