RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2020 The V2 looks very nice. Hopefully you can get enough weight in it to make it pull your trains. One cleaning up tool I haven't mentioned is this. A brass wire brush in a drill. It will remove solder but not mark the metal. 4 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2020 11 minutes ago, t-b-g said: The V2 looks very nice. Hopefully you can get enough weight in it to make it pull your trains. One cleaning up tool I haven't mentioned is this. A brass wire brush in a drill. It will remove solder but not mark the metal. That's fine for accessible brass, but something a little more delicate and precise is required for whitemetal work. On brass, too, the 3M wheels will get in where the big wire brush won't. For intermediate work on brass, I have some smaller brass cup brushes. John Isherwood. 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) 7 hours ago, dibateg said: I abhor those glass fibre brushes and I never use them. The fibres get every where and stick in my fingers ( Tony would probably say I'm soft anyway! ) I tend to use emery sticks and a miniature circular wire brush in the mini drill. 1 hour ago, t-b-g said: One cleaning up tool I haven't mentioned is this. A brass wire brush in a drill. It will remove solder but not mark the metal. Ah yes.... Almost as bad as glassfibre brushes in my book, as I find they tend to fling bristles at warp nine all over the workshop. Still, at least they can be seen more easily. I do recall mention of a method of removing glass bristles from fingers etc. Paint a coating of latex(?) or PVA(?) glue (I can't recall which, or perhaps another type?) over the area; when dry peel the glue off, and the bristles should come with it. Never tried it though. Edited June 16, 2020 by polybear 1 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post t-b-g Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, cctransuk said: That's fine for accessible brass, but something a little more delicate and precise is required for whitemetal work. On brass, too, the 3M wheels will get in where the big wire brush won't. For intermediate work on brass, I have some smaller brass cup brushes. John Isherwood. The brass wheel is not good for everything but is one of a range of tools. I use all sorts of scrapers, filed up brass chisels, wet and dry glued to sticks in confined spaces. Plus I have the pencil with a brass wire insert which is good for getting into tight corners. I haven't tried the wheels you have got but they look really useful and I feel I should get some. Anything but glass fibre! I am going to sound a bit bigheaded now but for most soldering, including whitemetal, I rarely have to do much cleaning up. With the iron, fluxes and solders I use, I have learned just how much solder to put on. Sometimes, I have to fill a gap in a poor kit and then cleaning up might be necessary but thinking back, the photo of the horsebox was taken after I finished soldering but before I did any cleaning, which is why bits of dust and dirt are visible. This was one I did fairly recently. Cleaning up around that would be a tricky task so I just made sure I didn't have to do much. 25 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2020 5 minutes ago, polybear said: Ah yes.... Almost as bad as glassfibre brushes in my book, as I find they tend to fling bristles at warp nine all over the workshop. Still, at least they can be seen more easily. I do recall mention of a method of removing glass bristles from fingers etc. Paint a coating of latex(?) or PVA(?) glue (I can't recall which, or perhaps another type?) over the area; when dry peel the glue off, and the bristles should come with it. Never tried it though. I must have been lucky with mine. Had it a few years but no bristles have come off yet. I like the tip about the glass fibre but it won't get me using it again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PJT Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2020 5 minutes ago, polybear said: Ah yes.... Almost as bad as glassfibre brushes in my book, as I find they tend to fling bristles at warp nine all over the workshop A bit like using a 'cup' wire brush in an angle grinder: you end up looking like a porcupine. I stopped doing that twenty-odd years ago when I stopped restoring old cars. I certainly don't miss having little red puncture marks all over me the next day after using one. Pete T. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2020 33 minutes ago, polybear said: Ah yes.... Almost as bad as glassfibre brushes in my book, as I find they tend to fling bristles at warp nine all over the workshop. Still, at least they can be seen more easily. I do recall mention of a method of removing glass bristles from fingers etc. Paint a coating of latex(?) or PVA(?) glue (I can't recall which, or perhaps another type?) over the area; when dry peel the glue off, and the bristles should come with it. Never tried it though. Wearing disposable gloves is another method. Put them on before using the pencil, when you take them off they pull out the glass fragments as there is more of the fragment in the glove than the person. 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Where possible, use the glass fibre pencil under the running tap???? 3 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Tony Wright Posted June 16, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted June 16, 2020 Every now and then, I start a project which I'm really excited about. The new Mike Trice V2 is just such an example......................... Fortunately, having access to several Comet V2 frames I've built, I was able to assess immediately what might be needed by way of bodywork alteration. The deeper bits between the leading and centre drivers had to go, because they'd foul the motion support bracket otherwise. A few minutes' work with a coarse file did the trick. Another source of immediate interference was the rear bracket supporting the footplate adjacent to the firebox. I made up the frames using my ancient (but extremely accurate) Jamieson jig. Here. I'm testing the initial fit before the support bracket had been soldered in place. Perfect! As mentioned, Mike Trice sent me two bodies, the second iteration having the front steps included. The first one was used as a sort of guinea pig, and where I cut slots in the footplate to accommodate the support bracket is visible. This was achieved with a mini-circular saw in a mini-drill, cleaning up with files afterwards. There is loads of space for subsequent ballast. With mods tested and 'approved, I then altered the second body to fit the frames. Note the internal splashers. A perfect fit. I drilled and tapped a hole in the cab footplate to secure the rear end. Note the springs partly cut-away to accommodate the pick-ups. These 3D-printed bodies are superb. Fat too good to fit on to a Bachmann chassis, even the later ones. I feel a further order to Comet coming on! More tomorrow, when I should have it running. Thanks again Mike. 33 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2020 10 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: Note the springs partly cut-away to accommodate the pick-ups. I've had some concerns about weakening the etch in that area by removing one of the springs, such that I've either not done it (and adjusted the pickups accordingly) or soldered a support across the length of the axle holes. Presuming from your experience that such concerns are unfounded, Tony? Al Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted June 16, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2020 15 minutes ago, Barry Ten said: I've had some concerns about weakening the etch in that area by removing one of the springs, such that I've either not done it (and adjusted the pickups accordingly) or soldered a support across the length of the axle holes. Presuming from your experience that such concerns are unfounded, Tony? Al They're not unfounded at all, Al, It's vital that any nibbling away of the springs be done AFTER the holes for the bearings have been broached and after a substantial fillet of solder has been applied at the top of the bearing, filling the slots where there's provision for compensation/springing. Only then might the springs be snipped away. Otherwise, it's dead easy to move the bearing hole, making a true-running chassis all but impossible. Regards, Tony. 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel W Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 This is what I have been working on recently. And, incidentally, what i was using the scratch pen for. A 51L kit for a diagram 1/163 Iron Ore Hopper. This is the first part of a rake of hoppers now in use carrying Limestone that i am building for my quarry layout. The kit went together well enough, however I did replace the whitemetal headstocks with some brass U section to give a neater appearance. The Rumney Models wagon detailing etch came in handy for adding some little bits to the solebar. Although, in future i may just stick them on with a dab of epoxy since soldering them on always ends up looking messy. The hopper locking mechanism has been (crudely) scratch-built ala Geoff Kent's MRJ article. Unfortunately, i am not as skilled as Mr Kent, so alas my example is even more 'representational' than he claims his to be! All in all, i'm fairly pleased with kit for a third attempt at soldering something up. Theres some wonkyness and the brake levers have been overly bent-up in all honestly. But at stand-off distance it should be fine. Regards Daniel 17 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 3 hours ago, gr.king said: Where possible, use the glass fibre pencil under the running tap???? My preferred method, with a bit of Jif, and the brass comes up just lovely. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, Tony Wright said: Every now and then, I start a project which I'm really excited about. The new Mike Trice V2 is just such an example......................... Fortunately, having access to several Comet V2 frames I've built, I was able to assess immediately what might be needed by way of bodywork alteration. The deeper bits between the leading and centre drivers had to go, because they'd foul the motion support bracket otherwise. A few minutes' work with a coarse file did the trick. Another source of immediate interference was the rear bracket supporting the footplate adjacent to the firebox. I made up the frames using my ancient (but extremely accurate) Jamieson jig. Here. I'm testing the initial fit before the support bracket had been soldered in place. Perfect! As mentioned, Mike Trice sent me two bodies, the second iteration having the front steps included. The first one was used as a sort of guinea pig, and where I cut slots in the footplate to accommodate the support bracket is visible. This was achieved with a mini-circular saw in a mini-drill, cleaning up with files afterwards. There is loads of space for subsequent ballast. With mods tested and 'approved, I then altered the second body to fit the frames. Note the internal splashers. A perfect fit. I drilled and tapped a hole in the cab footplate to secure the rear end. Note the springs partly cut-away to accommodate the pick-ups. These 3D-printed bodies are superb. Fat too good to fit on to a Bachmann chassis, even the later ones. I feel a further order to Comet coming on! More tomorrow, when I should have it running. Thanks again Mike. That looks superb, Tony. How does the body shape and proportion look to your expert eye? That isn't a loaded question at all - it looks exactly like a V2 to me! I really fancy a few V2's, but the Finney one puts me off and its not exactly cheap either! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I try to use my fibre pencil as little as possible but there are certain jobs where nothing else really does as good a job. So when I do use it I wear disposable gloves, clean my bench top, make a point of working over this area, vacuum and do a final clean up with duct tape. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted June 16, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Thanks again Mike. I got a surprise box too from Mike, luckily I don't need so many drivers as they're not V2's, but I do need to clear the bench before starting on them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted June 16, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, grob1234 said: That looks superb, Tony. How does the body shape and proportion look to your expert eye? That isn't a loaded question at all - it looks exactly like a V2 to me! I really fancy a few V2's, but the Finney one puts me off and its not exactly cheap either! I don't know about 'expert', Tom, Checking against the Isinglass drawing and comparing it with prototype pictures, the body is spot-on. Sitting on top of a decent chassis, I reckon it's as good a 'layout' V2 as any I've seen. I have observed (and photographed) Finney V2s (in both scales), and one might argue (with justification) that they represent the 'Rolls-Royce' of V2 models; at an commensurate price, of course. That said, and certainly for my needs (or wants!), this MJT V2 body is perfect. It's far crisper than a Nu-Cast one, more accurate than a Crownline one and far more detailed than a Jamieson one (all of which I've built). There are a few things to add - lubricators (got those as spares), buffers (again spares), vacuum standpipe (loads of), a front coupling (never provided in kits, anyway), a smokebox dart (got that), handrails and pillars (hundreds of), and a reversing lever (easily made), but it's almost as complete as an RTR body; and it's much, much better than the current RTR body! I don't know whether Mike is going to sell them (he's looking at this thread), but I'm sure there'll be a market for it; especially as the forthcoming new Bachmann V2 will inevitably be delayed. I'll certainly finish the second one as well. Regards, Tony. Edited June 17, 2020 by Tony Wright typo error 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Thank you, Tony, most helpful as always. A superbly handsome locomotive, I would certainly be interested if Mike is looking in! All you'll need is a good handful of lead in there and it'll weigh enough to haul 10+ carriages at some speed too I'd have thought. I must be maturing with my modelling. I have seemed to have 'in stock' items I would normally need to have to order. It's very satisfying having a decent stock of modelling materials and supplies. Not long now til I can make a meaningful update on my projects - they're really getting to a critical mass now, which is very exciting. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) 9 hours ago, Tony Wright said: I don't know about 'expert', Tom, Checking against the Isinglass drawing and comparing it with prototype pictures, the body is spot-on. Sitting on top of a decent chassis, I reckon it's as good a 'layout' V2 as any I've seen. I have observed (and photographed) Finney V2s (in both scales), and one might argue (with justification) that they represent the 'Rolls-Royce' of V2 models; at an commensurate price, of course. That said, and certainly for my needs (or wants!), this MJT V2 body is perfect. It's far crisper than a Nu-Cast one, more accurate than a Crownline one and far more detailed than a Jamieson one (all of which I've built. There are a few things to add - lubricators (got those as spares), buffers (again spares), vacuum standpipe (loads of), a front coupling (never provided in kits, anyway), a smokebox dart (got that), handrails and pillars (hundreds of), and a reversing lever (easily made), but it's almost as complete as an RTR body; and it's much, much better than the current RTR body! I don't know whether Mike is going to sell them (he's looking at this thread), but I'm sure there'll be a market for it; especially as the forthcoming new Bachmann V2 will inevitably be delayed. I'll certainly finish the second one as well. Regards, Tony. I saw Mike's V2 body some time back. Your photos really do it justice. And v2s I'll need by the bucket full! Hope my wife is paying attention to all my hints. Edited June 17, 2020 by davidw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) 58 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: I don't know about 'expert', Tom, Checking against the Isinglass drawing and comparing it with prototype pictures, the body is spot-on. Sitting on top of a decent chassis, I reckon it's as good a 'layout' V2 as any I've seen. I have observed (and photographed) Finney V2s (in both scales), and one might argue (with justification) that they represent the 'Rolls-Royce' of V2 models; at an commensurate price, of course. That said, and certainly for my needs (or wants!), this MJT V2 body is perfect. It's far crisper than a Nu-Cast one, more accurate than a Crownline one and far more detailed than a Jamieson one (all of which I've built. There are a few things to add - lubricators (got those as spares), buffers (again spares), vacuum standpipe (loads of), a front coupling (never provided in kits, anyway), a smokebox dart (got that), handrails and pillars (hundreds of), and a reversing lever (easily made), but it's almost as complete as an RTR body; and it's much, much better than the current RTR body! I don't know whether Mike is going to sell them (he's looking at this thread), but I'm sure there'll be a market for it; especially as the forthcoming new Bachmann V2 will inevitably be delayed. I'll certainly finish the second one as well. Regards, Tony. I'd certainly be interested in one. The new Bachmann will be too expensive to dump half of it. Edited June 16, 2020 by Paul Cram 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted June 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2020 14 hours ago, t-b-g said: I was the same until I got a bit of the dreadful stuff stuck right in the end of my RH forefinger for several months. I got that dreadful sharp "ouch" every time I touched anything and decided "never again". Don't forget that Tony has asbestos fingers so all the nerve endings will have been cauterised decades ago... 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2020 3 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Don't forget that Tony has asbestos fingers so all the nerve endings will have been cauterised decades ago... A friend of mine as a saying, I haven't heard it elsewhere but some may be familiar with it. "There is no sense where there is no feeling" It may, or may not apply here, I can't work out which! 2 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted June 17, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 17, 2020 12 hours ago, Daniel W said: This is what I have been working on recently. And, incidentally, what i was using the scratch pen for. A 51L kit for a diagram 1/163 Iron Ore Hopper. This is the first part of a rake of hoppers now in use carrying Limestone that i am building for my quarry layout. The kit went together well enough, however I did replace the whitemetal headstocks with some brass U section to give a neater appearance. The Rumney Models wagon detailing etch came in handy for adding some little bits to the solebar. Although, in future i may just stick them on with a dab of epoxy since soldering them on always ends up looking messy. The hopper locking mechanism has been (crudely) scratch-built ala Geoff Kent's MRJ article. Unfortunately, i am not as skilled as Mr Kent, so alas my example is even more 'representational' than he claims his to be! All in all, i'm fairly pleased with kit for a third attempt at soldering something up. Theres some wonkyness and the brake levers have been overly bent-up in all honestly. But at stand-off distance it should be fine. Regards Daniel That's excellent work, Daniel, Thanks for showing us. Regards, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted June 17, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 17, 2020 10 hours ago, grob1234 said: Thank you, Tony, most helpful as always. A superbly handsome locomotive, I would certainly be interested if Mike is looking in! All you'll need is a good handful of lead in there and it'll weigh enough to haul 10+ carriages at some speed too I'd have thought. I must be maturing with my modelling. I have seemed to have 'in stock' items I would normally need to have to order. It's very satisfying having a decent stock of modelling materials and supplies. Not long now til I can make a meaningful update on my projects - they're really getting to a critical mass now, which is very exciting. Thanks Tom, One thing I should correct is my statement regarding the need for lubricators. As usual, I should have checked first! Mike supplied them (beautifully 3D-printed), in a little plastic bag. He also sent me a variety of chimneys and other bits and pieces. In the later iteration, the backhead is a separate fitting; which will really help in the fitting of handrails before it's installed. I have to say these 3D-printed items have now ridden me of any previous prejudice. With quality of this standard (no 'witness lines' at all), then even I will 'embrace' the new. Just think, my fingers might even see a return to their having 'feelings'. And, even I have general 'feelings', even though it's reported I have no sense! Regards, Tony. 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted June 17, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 17, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, Paul Cram said: I'd certainly be interested in one. The new Bachmann will be too expensive to dump half of it. Good morning Paul, I don't know what the forthcoming Bachmann RTR V2 will cost; £200.00? More? Whether Mike Trice will sell his V2 bodies, I don't know, but (at whatever price) the cost of the body, plus everything else to complete it, will be well short of that. Yes, it's still got to be 'made', but, having now this morning got the wheels/motor installed (after painting the frames last evening) and the Cartazzi frames fixed on, just looking at the 'sit' of it, I'd say it's the most-accurate V2 I've got. That's not to demean the work of others, but it's just every inch a V2! Pick-ups and rods next. A report will follow.............................. Regards, Tony. Edited June 17, 2020 by Tony Wright to add something 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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