RMweb Premium PMP Posted January 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2018 I’ve found Humbrol recently to be variable in its quality the same for Revell. I too spoke to Liz at Stevenage and had a try at lining, I’m certain there were some Humbrol in her colour set, and can confirm she was using lighter fuel to let the paint down, something I’ll try myself. I dropped in on Tony earlier, to collect one of the Geoff Taylor items being sold on behalf of an estate. Glad I made the effort 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted January 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2018 I have had good results using Tamiya acrylics by diluting them quite a lot with water and brushing several coats using a big flat brush. It dries with no brush marks with a lovely even matt finish. I have had the same problems with new Humbrol although I am lucky in having good stocks of older tins in many colours. It is black and white that I run out of first. For those, I use either Railmatch glass jars or the Tamiya. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Graeme, The Humbrol satin black No.85 used to be called coal black. As the coal black, it was my standard black. However, having bought a couple of tinlets of No.85 in recent times, it won't dry and even if it did, it's streaky. I use it now only for scenic work. Mine are marked made in UK , the China version has been slatted in the past. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglian Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 I thought the bad ones had been made in India but that production had now come back to the UK so they could keep a closer eye on quality. Either they aren't doing so or perhaps there is still a lot of old stock still being sold. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted January 17, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2018 I’ve found Humbrol recently to be variable in its quality the same for Revell. I too spoke to Liz at Stevenage and had a try at lining, I’m certain there were some Humbrol in her colour set, and can confirm she was using lighter fuel to let the paint down, something I’ll try myself. I dropped in on Tony earlier, to collect one of the Geoff Taylor items being sold on behalf of an estate. A8DAF37F-338A-48F6-81AE-C510BF6CC4FB.jpeg Glad I made the effort Good to see you today Paul, Many thanks for buying the bridge. It fits in perfectly. Regards, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmay2002 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 As well as the poor quality some of the Humbrol colours changed slightly too. The brick red now has a purprlish tinge to it which didn't use to be there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 As ever an interesting discussion about products we modellers tended to take for granted. We became accustomed to the various properties of certain paints/ varnishes.Any model can either be enhanced..or.......by the painting or varnishing.....and yes I've had the horror of seeing my work .....hours of it wrecked by a seconds application of an in compatible substance..... Always enjoy this thread...modellers trying to move the hobby forward 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Just be doing a bit of modelling - all went well till I lost a fight with a lamp iron! (Expletives deleted) Time to give up for the evening and watch some TV. Will resume battle tomorrow - and I bet it will go well. ( and I’ll wonder why I ever had a problem!) Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted January 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2018 It would be interesting to know what paint(s) Ian Rathbone etc. use? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted January 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2018 Some of the best paints I have used for basic colours are those sold by Games Workshop in their Citadel range, don't be put off by the their names. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg1 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Many years ago, when Humbrol paints were produced in Hull they used to grind their own pigments. I ran a model shop for a brief period in the early 1980's and always found them to be excellent. Some time later I believe production was moved away, possibly to China, when ownership of the brand changed hands. It is quite probable that Humbrol, Revel and Raillmatch are all produced in a paint mixing system where the "ingredients" are bought in. That is certainly what PPP do. So the quality of the paint relies on those mixing the batches (which should be consistent) and the quality of the materials. Is it that which is causing problems, especially if they are sourcing cheaper materials to keep prices down/improve profits. Three cheers for outsourcing, offshoring, sub-contracting, destroying continuity, and voila-lousy product, rotten reputation. I thought it was just me having such poor results with Humbrol. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecorbusier Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Back on Humbrol ... from their web site: In 2012 Humbrol moved over 60% of its manufacturing back to the UK from China to improve supply, and ensure high quality standards continue to be met. Humbrol’s well-established and most popular range of enamel paint as well as their new acrylic sprays are now produced in London and Manchester. Do we think that problems started in 2012 and it is the move back to the UK that is the problem .... or are we still working through old stock? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 As well as the poor quality some of the Humbrol colours changed slightly too. The brick red now has a purprlish tinge to it which didn't use to be there. You mean like this? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64295-wright-writes/page-220&do=findComment&comment=1992461 P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 (edited) Some of the best paints I have used for basic colours are those sold by Games Workshop in their Citadel range, don't be put off by the their names. Apologies for the poor photo, But part of the weathering process on this Bulleid Pacific included using the 'Nuln Oil' (black wash) I find that it sits nicely in all of the panel gaps, washout plugs, etc, and when it's applied with a large tipped flat brush and then, when wiped off leaves rather nice streaks, far more noticeable in a three quarter shot. I have used their paints too, and would rate them highly. Edited January 18, 2018 by Jack P 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2018 Mine are marked made in UK , the China version has been slatted in the past. Doesn't the Chinese paint fall out of the tin? Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2018 (edited) For thorough paint mixing I use one of these, other brands are avalable; https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/FERM-Oscillating-Multitool-Combitool-Multi-Combi-Tool-280w-Electric-240v-Case/1344059106?iid=351532986658 Clamp the paint pot to the blade. Mike. Edited January 18, 2018 by Enterprisingwestern Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 I’ve found Humbrol recently to be variable in its quality the same for Revell. I too spoke to Liz at Stevenage and had a try at lining, I’m certain there were some Humbrol in her colour set, and can confirm she was using lighter fuel to let the paint down, something I’ll try myself. I dropped in on Tony earlier, to collect one of the Geoff Taylor items being sold on behalf of an estate. A8DAF37F-338A-48F6-81AE-C510BF6CC4FB.jpeg Glad I made the effort For some years now I've been thinning Humbrol with turps/white spirit - dig the pigment out of the bottom of the tin with the end of a brush and thin it as required, leaving the gloopy sticky oil in the tin. The resulting paint is thinner, hence fewer brush marks, and dries more readily, but still has good covering ability. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted January 18, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2018 It would be interesting to know what paint(s) Ian Rathbone etc. use? Brian, I know Ian uses Precision Paints. He also uses Ronseal polyurethane satin varnish, thinned down and air-brush applied. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Brian, I know Ian uses Precision Paints. He also uses Ronseal polyurethane satin varnish, thinned down and air-brush applied. I need to try Ronseal. I thought he used matt and gloss (mixed as required) so he can vary the finish depending on what he wants. I wonder what thins Ronseal? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 For thorough paint mixing I use one of these, other brands are avalable; https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/FERM-Oscillating-Multitool-Combitool-Multi-Combi-Tool-280w-Electric-240v-Case/1344059106?iid=351532986658 Clamp the paint pot to the blade. Mike. Even the slatted ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Wright Posted January 18, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2018 (edited) Thanks for all the comments on various paints. I tend to forget that discussions are often cyclic, but there does seem to be a problem with some of the (more recent?) Humbrol paints. To return to what I alluded to earlier, Humbrol was the choice of paint in my formative modelling years. Even in complete ignorance, I painted just about everything I made with it - not just railway stuff, but plastic kits, etc. I also used Airfix paint (in little bottles) and Revell enamels. I cannot recall ever having any problems with paint drying or getting an even surface, whether matt, semi-matt or gloss. All of this was against the background of (probably) not stirring the paint thoroughly and certainly not being entirely diligent with the preparation of surfaces and cleaning-up. That paint of 60+ years ago was probably nasty if consumed. Now, I must have been a brilliant boy, because I have no recollection of my parents ever telling me not to drink paint! Nor, I have to say, of their telling me not to 'paint' my models with orange juice. I just, somehow, knew. Wasn't I clever? Now, with years of experience (and never having been tempted to drink paint), I find that even with vigorous stirring, diligent surface-preparation, sound priming and practised paint-application, I fail (or the paint fails). Is this to be expected from modern enamels? It refuses to dry, and, even when it does, it's streaky. Or, a week after applying the first coat (yes, seven days!), the next coat mixes with the first one, making a gloopy mess and the whole lot has to come off. Are some of today's paints edible, in case an imbecile drinks them? I'm searching for answers because any older Humbrol paints I have (including the wonderful railway colours) won't last forever. Not all is doom and gloom, though. At the Stevenage Show, a mate sold me a part-built/part-painted Mailcoach Tourist BTO (BSO by my period). I don't normally buy rolling stock built by others, but, at £15.00, this was too good to miss. It had no roof, but it was generally made-up well, with the sides nicely-brush-painted in maroon. I looked at it, added guard's handrails, gave the sides a further coat of Railmatch BR maroon (excellent paint, this) and let it dry (it dried perfectly overnight). I then re-made the bogies (there was far too much sideways slop), adding the necessary footboards, fitted an MJT aluminium roof (with MJT ventilators), fitted MJT gangways and buffers, and brush-painted the underframe and ends with Humbrol matt black (No.33). The matt black is a recent tin, and it dried fine. After the disaster (already mentioned) of painting the roof, I used the matt black, lightened with the last of my old Humbrol matt grey No 67 (the new tin is hopeless). That worked as well. It was then lined and lettered; the lining by Replica, though Cambridge Custom Transfers' lining is just as fine, and the rest using Modelmasters' transfers. Finally, the sides were finished off by using Ronseal polyurethane satin varnish. This is great stuff - it has to be cleaned with thinners and dries to a rock-hard finish in 24 hours. It's made-up into an unusual and interesting brake vehicle. Thanks Charlie. Edited January 18, 2018 by Tony Wright 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted January 18, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2018 Tourist BSO.jpg At the Stevenage Show, a mate sold me a part-built/part-painted Mailcoach Tourist BTO (BSO by my period). Nice coach, Tony; I picked up one of the Mailcoach Tourist buffet cars recently. Painting them is a bit of a faff, but the Tourist style certainly adds a bit of variety to a train. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 (edited) I bought my first Humbrols in 1975 and they were a minimum of 6 hours before a second coat. By the late eighties, I was allowing at least 24 hours between brushed coats of Humbrol. I don't seem to have any problems using Humbrol in the airbrush. Edited January 18, 2018 by Killybegs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 and an example of different shades. Tests&Things027copysm.jpg There's a list of the Authenticolour range here: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_humbrolauthentic.htm I'm glad Humbrol still use the tins. The door frames of my parents house still bear the scars of attempts at removing the tops from the old Airfix paint glass bottles. Porcy That explains why I have had trouble matching the colour of the brickwork on the bridge on Worseter. It was painted about sixteen years ago and the colour matches the tin on the left. Tins bought recently match that on the right. I have dents in my door frames too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 18, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2018 Even the slatted ones? Mixes and sprays at the same time! Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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