Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

Hi Tony

 

I think you do yourself a disservice by shying away from the 'inspirational' label (in post #11200). Reading this thread, among other things, has convinced me that I really do need to branch out a bit more from the 'open the box and play with the contents' mindset in which I have been so comfortable for so long. As with all things, it seems to me to be an evolutionary process. I started with a train set; various pieces of rolling stock were added as gifts by relatives on subsequent Christmases and birthdays; and I saved up pocket money to buy things I liked myself. Then the first major transformation: working out what pieces of stock went accurately with what engines. Then the second: learning that good-quality kits of a type no more difficult than the average Airfix Spitfire were available from Parkside and others. (No more difficult to build, I should add; they're slightly more difficult to complete because they require you to source transfers separately).

 

From building plastic kits you get the confidence to start modifying RTR, which is where I am now. In fact, fellow thread-devotees, I emailed Tony a couple of days ago to find out about renumbering the Hornby all-steel K-type Pullman cars (I bought the necessary coaches this morning from those fine Liverpudlians, as it happens) because - and again this is that evolutionary imperative at work - I'm no longer willing to have a train that is accurate in terms of its formation let down by the fact that cars #72, #73 & #79 appear twice in the space of eight carriages. Tony kindly replied with some helpful advice, which has given me the confidence to go out and try things.

 

Whether this counts as 'proper modelling' I don't know. Because I view these things as being part of a spectrum, with 'getting a trainset' on one end and something like 'scratchbuilding a Jersey Lily for Retford' at the other, I'm not sure where 'proper modelling' begins (my suspicion is that differences in individual interpretation here are what fuels the ongoing debate). I have started upgrading my locomotive stud in a serious and systematic way by adding crews, lamps and, most recently, real coal - to me this is modelling, whereas to others, I'm sure, it's no more than basic titivation. (I'm particularly proud, incidentally, of having 'overfilled' the tender of a Bachmann J39, so that the coal has tumbled down and around the water filler cap. It's something I've seen in photographs but it's not something you get on an out-of-the-box RTR model, and while I'm aware that it's a small thing to be proud of it does at least suggest to me that my powers of 'modelling observation' seem to be moving in the right direction!)

 

Where next in terms of modelling development? Probably whitemetal kits, and from unpowered to powered - something like an 0-6-0 with no external valve gear to worry about putting together. For me the ultimate aim is still working in brass, but it will be years before I'm confident enough in my techniques to do so - the cost of the kits is still a serious disincentive to amateurism. To spend £300 to end up with a locomotive that you can't use, when you could get a superb RTR equivalent for less than half the price, would be a source of genuine and continuing annoyance. Watching someone like Tony being so entirely comfortable working in that medium is inspirational, whether he confesses it or not, and it's why I find this thread so continually helpful.

 

Incidentally, I was sitting next to SWMBO when I was emailing Tony the other night. "Who are you talking to?" she asked.

"Tony Wright," I replied. "I wanted some advice on how to renumber coaches."

"You're always doing train stuff on that computer. You should invent an app for contacting these people," she suggested.

 

Having mulled it over, I wonder if she's perhaps on to something with that idea. I've even come up with a name for it: "Looking to meet like-minded model railway enthusiasts? Get chatting by downloading our new app... Tender!"

 

Regards,

Gavin

Gavin,

 

'Proper modelling' to me is where someone is prepared to do things for themselves, however menial/lowly/entry-level/lacking in complexity/simple/easy/quick or whatever term one might like to use. Whether it's taking an RTR item and modifying it by the simplest of procedures or beginning the journey into kit-building, it really doesn't matter. Very simple things, the like of which you describe, like fitting lamps, a crew, adding real coal, changing couplings, going on to renumbering/renaming and weathering. All of these things lift a model into something personal and special, and the results can be superb (look at Westerner's models for instance). Alan has brought some of his here and they really look the part. Above all else, it's important that you attempt these things yourself. Such mods can be paid for, though such things don't interest me at all (a personal view).

 

I fully understand how it can be a deterrent to pay for a kit costing up to three times more than an RTR equivalent, and that the risk of potential failure is high, especially to the inexperienced. One avenue (which I've exploited) is to look around and find (particularly) loco kits which have proved to be a graveyard for the aspirations of the builder, and he/she has 'abandoned all hope'. Since (and I've admitted this before) I have no idea of the workings of eBay, I cannot recommend anything seen on there, but bargains do abound, or so I'm told. Many cast-metal loco kits will have been glued together and, as long as the pieces are not mutilated, easily come apart after a day or two in a bath of Nitromores. Then, cleaned up, reconstruction can begin. Swapmeets and exhibitions can also prove to be a source of cheap 'abandoned' kits. 

 

On a practical level, once you're married (my very best wishes by the way), fix up a time and come and spend a few days with us. Mo is a terrific hostess, and I'll give you tuition. I have several kits here the likes of which I'll never build, so try one of those out. Many others do the same. Some come on a regular basis (either they're slow learners or I'm a duff teacher, or both) and some have come just once or twice, find out what they need to know and then need my tuition no more. So far, I've only had one failure - my own pomposity lead me to believe I was a good enough teacher - I wasn't! Many come again to run the railway, and this (without my being altruistic) gives me the greatest pleasure. To see a loco I've helped someone make, purr round, without fuss or failure is the best of feelings. There are many. The fee? A donation to the charity of your choice. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

Photos please!

 

John,

 

At first I thought, why a picture of a sports car on a model railway thread? By the way, I've removed the lady 'driver' from it because of personal reasons. 

 

Then, I thought, is there a parallel? I enjoy driving this car, it's extremely fast (I'm told it'll get from 0-60 mph in 4.5 seconds, but I'm not that brave), but it is really no more than an 'old man's' possession. Other than purchasing it, and paying an expert mechanic to keep it in tip-top nick, all I do is fill it with petrol (all too frequently!) and drive around looking like a total plonker. 

 

It's been to rallies, but I take it no more because I feel a faker. In the presence of those who've rebuilt their own TVRs (and other other sports car), all I can do is pose, lift the bonnet and sound as if I know what I'm taking about - I'm immediately rumbled! Those who've done the things themselves have a much more interesting story to tell. 

 

Is there a parallel with railway modelling? Possibly. Though I always advocate making things for oneself in the hobby of railway modelling, I wouldn't dare drive a thing like the above if I'd tinkered with it. 

Edited August 27, 2016 by Tony Wright

[coachmann]

I thought at least you'd be driving around in a kit built Westfield Mega S2000........no ruddy RTR Fords on Wrights drive..... 

[Dazzler Fan]

+

 

This Thread could do with its own Index!

[MJI]

I like the RV8 TVRs

 

I usually do as much maintenance as possible on cars, I even buy relevant code readers so I can see what the car is complaining about.

 

I have heavily worked on 2 stroke singles, DOHC twins, 24 valve V6s, pushrod 4s, Diesel 5s, just a matter of getting to know an engine.

 

An old 1600cc engined car I used to own, I could have the cylinder head off within 30 minutes of switching off.

 

There is a warm feeling to knowing you repaired yout own car.

 

BTW the 1600cc push rod engine was designed by a chap who had developed bike engines and early F1 engines, I suppose that is why it was very short stroke with large valves.

[EHertsGER]

Given that 70 is now considered to be the start of the "new Middle Age" it seems to me that us oldies should be buying sports cars, not selling them on. My choice is a Peugeot 308 metal top convertible. The metal top is a good idea as it is more secure than a rag top, particularly here in France. My wife recently acquired an Audi convertible, the envy of our entire family it seems. It is her first non-sensible car and she loves it. Isn't that what we should be doing in our retirement years? The American bumper sticker, usually pasted onto the rear of a Winnebago, comes to mind. "We are spnding our children's inheritance". However, i understand such a concept in the UK is definitely non-PC.

'Our children's inheritance' is the wisdom with which we inspired them to pursue their goals; what we do with our money is our business. OK, benevolent dad here has invested in his son's business (to say nothing of his schooling through Uni) but that is strictly business. He's not so sure about being directly related to his 'Den Dragon'...

 

Me? More bikes...still searching for that Black Shadow...can't quite afford the Brough, but Jr is tasked with solving that problem..

Edited August 28, 2016 by EHertsGER

[manna]

G'day Gents

 

The Kids inheritance isn't guaranteed, most will get a little some thing, but whatever it is, it's a bonus.

 

Here's the wife and I, spending it. LOL  

 

1st, Near Wagga Wagga, pronounced, Wogga Wogga.

2nd, Coffs Harbour.

3rd, Nambucca Heads.

 

Terry (Aka manna)

Edited August 28, 2016 by manna

[grob1234]

G'day Gents

 

The Kids inheritance isn't guaranteed, most will get a little some thing, but whatever it is, it's a bonus.

 

Here's the wife and I, spending it. LOL  

 

1st, Near Wagga Wagga, pronounced, Wogga Wogga.

2nd, Coffs Harbour.

3rd, Nambucca Heads.

 

Terry (Aka manna)

 

Good on 'yer, mate! As I believe you say in the Antipodes. 

 

Beautiful country.

[jamie92208]

Spending the Kids Inheritance is our business not theirs.   I always planned to leave them the contents of the loft to sort out as my revenge along with the two things that appeared to be their favourites a year or two ago, namely a large overdraft and a huge phone bill.   Now we've gone and spent the money on a place in sunnier climes that just happens to be near a vineyard but has a rather large shed/railway room in the garden.

 

The future permanent home for Green Ayre though I could dream of a 7mm Trent Junction.

 

Jamie

[manna]

G'day Gents

 

yep, gorgeous place, we're going back, this time, we're going to stay a month  

 

Terry (aka manna) 

[Jol Wilkinson]

"I fully understand how it can be a deterrent to pay for a kit costing up to three times more than an RTR equivalent, and that the risk of potential failure is high, especially to the inexperienced. One avenue (which I've exploited) is to look around and find (particularly) loco kits which have proved to be a graveyard for the aspirations of the builder, and he/she has 'abandoned all hope'. Since (and I've admitted this before) I have no idea of the workings of eBay, I cannot recommend anything seen on there, but bargains do abound, or so I'm told. Many cast-metal loco kits will have been glued together and, as long as the pieces are not mutilated, easily come apart after a day or two in a bath of Nitromores. Then, cleaned up, reconstruction can begin. Swapmeets and exhibitions can also prove to be a source of cheap 'abandoned' kits. "

 

 

One "problem" is that people don't seem willing or able to consider starting with something "simple" - a van, wagon, or whatever. It is straight in with the large loco with lots of wheels and a tender.

 

I have had conversations while helping out a "small supplier" at shows over many years which illustrate that. Getting someone to spend £20 on an etched "starter" kit rather than £100+ on a loco isn't easy. Equally persuading someone to start with a simple tank loco rather than a more complicated Edwardian passenger tender loco with outside gear or a complex curved footplate can be difficult. We make the effort to start people on what we believe is the correct path because we want them to succeed and become enthusiastic model makers (and more cynically, continued customers).

 

Sadly many people believe that they can't acquire the skills needed to assemble and finish a model. It is all down to how much you want to do it. After all we had to learn to walk, talk, ride a bike, drive a car and even type messages on a keyboard. Why do so many people think that they can't learn to solder, paint, etc. They learn how to use a saw and hammer to make a baseboard, so why are some other skills perceived as so difficult. Are they afraid of failure, unwilling to seek training and guidance, don't like a challenge or what?

[coachmann]

Perseverance is the keyword although, going off my own attitude,  it might be better psychologically to tell a person a particular task is too difficult for them in the hope that their response would be "Stuff that", I'll show you!"   

[Manxman1831]

When people ask where I recommend starting when it comes to modelling trams or trains, I always wind up telling them to start with an Airfix Spitfire kit.  They are relatively cheap, go together quite easily (depending on the age of the kit/moulds) and can be modified within limits to whatever look you want to finish with.  The same general principles/skills you learn when putting together such an easy kit can be transferred across to more complex models, like a Mosquito or Lightning (P-38), or a Swordfish.  From there, the next step could be to move onto a simple tram/loco kit - the old Knightwing Sentinel or KeilKraft West Ham tram - for something that will move.  I'd go so far as to say, DON'T go for a wagon or coach kit until you are confident that you can set the wheelsets up to run flat/level - something like the old CooperCraft kits would be ideal, but can still be built wrong if you charge into it (I did with my first wagon kit, a 5-plank coal wagon).  On the carriage front, we have the Dapol semi-kits to assist with our learning curve, both in terms of building, but also detailing, coaches.  The former Airfix/Kitmaster range as sold by Dapol can still produce passable examples of the locos they were based on - indeed motorising them has never been easier with chassis being readily available on certain internet auction sites, or through spares suppliers, and Branchlines still produce their motorising and detailing kits for the Railbus, Drewry 04, BR Mogul and City of Truro for those that wish to try their hand at building the chassis as well.

 

To my mind, this approach, although rather convoluted, would provide a better basis for tackling some of the more complex kits out there, than outright informing the would-be modeller that their choice of model is completely wrong for them.

 

Image below shows the two extremes - engine is a quick and easy kit with an off-the-shelf motor unit, while the coaches are a quite old and complex kit.

[EHertsGER]

One "problem" is that people don't seem willing or able to consider starting with something "simple" - a van, wagon, or whatever. It is straight in with the large loco with lots of wheels and a tender.

 

I have had conversations while helping out a "small supplier" at shows over many years which illustrate that. Getting someone to spend £20 on an etched "starter" kit rather than £100+ on a loco isn't easy. Equally persuading someone to start with a simple tank loco rather than a more complicated Edwardian passenger tender loco with outside gear or a complex curved footplate can be difficult. We make the effort to start people on what we believe is the correct path because we want them to succeed and become enthusiastic model makers (and more cynically, continued customers).

 

Sadly many people believe that they can't acquire the skills needed to assemble and finish a model. It is all down to how much you want to do it. After all we had to learn to walk, talk, ride a bike, drive a car and even type messages on a keyboard. Why do so many people think that they can't learn to solder, paint, etc. They learn how to use a saw and hammer to make a baseboard, so why are some other skills perceived as so difficult. Are they afraid of failure, unwilling to seek training and guidance, don't like a challenge or what?

I do recall when 'growing up' in this hobby of ours, reading in RM, MRC and MR of stock lists (not many of those in modern articles, thank goodness!) that glibly attested to 'super detailed Wills body on scratchbuilt chassis'. The tender (apologies) aspirations of a mere lad were crushed at that point, knowing of the apparent size of the mountain to climb to attain such heights. Then, in the spirit of such things came a revelation in the form of Guy Williams scratch-building articles in MRC (then, the book). At that point it was all a series of little tasks that seemed very possible all of a sudden. So I had a go, and another, and another and got better at it. And dumped a lot of crap along the way.

 

So, my own learning point? Read about others' messes, mistakes and triumphs, be impressed rather than intimidated, knowing these are not demi-gods, but other blokes in sheds or laundry closets (me) bashing away and conjuring up not miracles, but workpieces.

 

Then measure the size of your aspirations against your willingness to take a risk and have a go. It is possible, as an aside here, that many of the 'jump right in' crowd did not do their 'Airfix apprenticeship' and learn of the benefits of another set of soggy undercarriage or wobbly wings over and over again...

[mullie]

My own experience was Airfix kits then once into railways I began making buildings because I could use card which worked well on my limited budget. Since coming back into the hobby properly it has been a process I would describe as evolving and developing. I have gone from set track to building my own track using SMP parts via the usual Peco route using DCC for loco control but conventional electric point control.

 

I have built Parkside Dundas wagon kits.

 

 

Ratio carriage kits.

 

 

Detailed and weathered rtr.

 

 

This summer I stripped an old K's J70 I had built using glue so I could rebuild it and practice whitemetal soldering.

 

 

I've also finished one silver fox J70 on a Bullant bogie and will finish a second next week hopefully.

 

 

Next development? I've ordered the Lochgorm kits starter fret to build a couple of etched wagons to build on my experience with MJT and Mainly Trains etched parts I've used on other wagons. Hopefully within the next 6-9 months I will try building a loco kit or chassis. This is one persons modelling journey and it has worked for me. I have improved my skills enormously though it has taken a very long time because of a hectic work and family schedule. Our hobby is a very broad church and there must always be room for all abilities and tastes. I would describe myself as both an average and broad brush modeller.

 

Martyn

 

 

 

 

 

[richard i]

My own experience was Airfix kits then once into railways I began making buildings because I could use card which worked well on my limited budget. Since coming back into the hobby properly it has been a process I would describe as evolving and developing. I have gone from set track to building my own track using SMP parts via the usual Peco route using DCC for loco control but conventional electric point control.

 

I have built Parkside Dundas wagon kits.

 

DSC_0027ed.jpg

 

Ratio carriage kits.

 

DSC_0022 ed.jpg

 

Detailed and weathered rtr.

 

DSC_0025ed.jpg

 

This summer I stripped an old K's J70 I had built using glue so I could rebuild it and practice whitemetal soldering.

 

DSC_0009.JPG

 

I've also finished one silver fox J70 on a Bullant bogie and will finish a second next week hopefully.

 

DSC_0005.JPG

 

Next development? I've ordered the Lochgorm kits starter fret to build a couple of etched wagons to build on my experience with MJT and Mainly Trains etched parts I've used on other wagons. Hopefully within the next 6-9 months I will try building a loco kit or chassis. This is one persons modelling journey and it has worked for me. I have improved my skills enormously though it has taken a very long time because of a hectic work and family schedule. Our hobby is a very broad church and there must always be room for all abilities and tastes. I would describe myself as both an average and broad brush modeller.

 

Martyn

I can relate to that journey and like most skills that they need to be worked on and improved over time. Will those brought up on educational computer games which are set to reward you every 15seconds have the persistence to keep going with something which slowly rewards you over time?

Richard

[Tony Wright]

Many thanks, as usual, to all those who've posted recently, particularly those who are showing examples of their work - the emphasis being on 'their'. 

 

 

Rather than this Crownline B17 becoming an antique by the time I complete it as a demonstrator at forthcoming shows, I thought I'd finish it off. I started it seven years ago, quite a bit before the Hornby B17 came out. I'll start another loco as a demonstration piece - next show, Loughborough next weekend. I should have the motion and valve gear on by then. It'll be CLUMBER, and is destined for Kiveton Park. I built my first Crownline B17 at the turn of the century for Gilbert Barnatt; I assume he still has it, given the proliferation of Hornby B17s. 

 

 

Like this. I think commentators have a valid point when they question the wisdom of making something for which there is an RTR equivalent. There's little doubt mine won't be as good as this, though the bogie wheels are far superior. The visible edges might be better as well, since they're etched brass rather than plastic. I certainly can't paint to this standard, but we'll see what Geoff Haynes comes up with. 

 

 

Running on Little Bytham, a Hornby B17 looks the part (though I had to just tweak the b-t-bs to get it to run sweetly through 'scale' pointwork). 

 

 

Converted to P4 (by Dave Hawkins) it really looks stunning, especially as he's weathered it to perfection. Importantly, it's all his own work. 

 

So, I concede the debate (not an argument). Unless you're a really top builder and painter (certainly not me), then even at your best you'll struggle to match an RTR B17. However, though I concede the point, my point is that I still like building locos like a B17. It also makes them unique (a commentator said today something was 'very unique'. How does one qualify an absolute? Please, don't get me going on current presenters in the media - accents so thick as to be incomprehensible, mumbling delivery, poor pronunciation and a level of ignorance on subjects which makes me cringe).

 

 

[Chimer]

One "problem" is that people don't seem willing or able to consider starting with something "simple" - a van, wagon, or whatever. It is straight in with the large loco with lots of wheels and a tender.

 

I have had conversations while helping out a "small supplier" at shows over many years which illustrate that. Getting someone to spend £20 on an etched "starter" kit rather than £100+ on a loco isn't easy. Equally persuading someone to start with a simple tank loco rather than a more complicated Edwardian passenger tender loco with outside gear or a complex curved footplate can be difficult. We make the effort to start people on what we believe is the correct path because we want them to succeed and become enthusiastic model makers (and more cynically, continued customers).

 

Sadly many people believe that they can't acquire the skills needed to assemble and finish a model. It is all down to how much you want to do it. After all we had to learn to walk, talk, ride a bike, drive a car and even type messages on a keyboard. Why do so many people think that they can't learn to solder, paint, etc. They learn how to use a saw and hammer to make a baseboard, so why are some other skills perceived as so difficult. Are they afraid of failure, unwilling to seek training and guidance, don't like a challenge or what?

 

Experience!

[John Isherwood]

Experience!

 

If you can't solder, it's because you're using the wrong combination of iron / flux / solder - it's as simple as that !!

 

I learned to solder tinplate in metalwork at school - a big copper iron heated in a gas flame; good strong tinman's flux that would burn holes in you workshop coat; and a tinman's solder stick.

 

When I tried this with pieces of whitemetal, I quickly had one blob of whitemetal ! The items needed vary according to the job.

 

So - read up on the necessary iron / flux / solder for the material you want to solder; don't imagine that you can do all jobs with a cheapo iron from Lidl, (though they're very good for the right job); and some electrician's multicore solder from Homebase.

 

It's not a magic art, but you wouldn't try and shoe a horse with a pin hammer, or hang a picture with a sledghammer, would you?

 

........... oh - you would? I wouldn't try soldering, then !!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited August 29, 2016 by cctransuk

[jrg1]

One of the reasons aspiring modellers give up so quickly, or take the wrong path (Buying a complex kit first) is that they have no mentor to guide them.  The first steps are the most important, as they can make or break a potential modeller.  How many of us have attended clubs to gain knowledge and experience necessary to progress, and found that the support was just not there?

My first efforts were total duds, and about to give up, I started reading the Guy Williams series in MRC, and subsequently bought the book.  Teaching myself was hard work, and a lot of effort could have been saved if I knew someone further up the hobby who could have critiqued my building and suggested improvements to techniques.  

I eventually got to where I wanted, and am still learning, but thinking of various modellers and enthusiasts I knew who gave up and dropped out-what a waste to the hobby.

[EHertsGER]

Many thanks, as usual, to all those who've posted recently, particularly those who are showing examples of their work - the emphasis being on 'their'. 

 

61620 02.jpg

 

Rather than this Crownline B17 becoming an antique by the time I complete it as a demonstrator at forthcoming shows, I thought I'd finish it off. I started it seven years ago, quite a bit before the Hornby B17 came out. I'll start another loco as a demonstration piece - next show, Loughborough next weekend. I should have the motion and valve gear on by then. It'll be CLUMBER, and is destined for Kiveton Park. I built my first Crownline B17 at the turn of the century for Gilbert Barnatt; I assume he still has it, given the proliferation of Hornby B17s. 

 

Hornby B17 04.jpg

 

Like this. I think commentators have a valid point when they question the wisdom of making something for which there is an RTR equivalent. There's little doubt mine won't be as good as this, though the bogie wheels are far superior. The visible edges might be better as well, since they're etched brass rather than plastic. I certainly can't paint to this standard, but we'll see what Geoff Haynes comes up with. 

 

Hornby B17 B.jpg

 

Running on Little Bytham, a Hornby B17 looks the part (though I had to just tweak the b-t-bs to get it to run sweetly through 'scale' pointwork). 

 

Dave Hawkins P4 Hornby B17.jpg

 

Converted to P4 (by Dave Hawkins) it really looks stunning, especially as he's weathered it to perfection. Importantly, it's all his own work. 

 

So, I concede the debate (not an argument). Unless you're a really top builder and painter (certainly not me), then even at your best you'll struggle to match an RTR B17. However, though I concede the point, my point is that I still like building locos like a B17. It also makes them unique (a commentator said today something was 'very unique'. How does one qualify an absolute? Please, don't get me going on current presenters in the media - accents so thick as to be incomprehensible, mumbling delivery, poor pronunciation and a level of ignorance on subjects which makes me cringe).

Pondering the Hornby B17, but awww, dammit...nope...another kit for the pile. Seriously, though; bought the Hornby D16/3 thinking I simply couldn't be bothered to build one. Now for the RTR crowd it's damn good, but parked next to some of my kit builds, ugh! It's not personal conceit, it's just a matter of consistent appearance. Oh, and the fag of converting to P4. PDK to the rescue. It's a good job Ultrascales take so long to arrive; it's now behind the D49 and the Schools (an aside; why has nobody ever built 'Rugby'?) in the queue...

[St Enodoc]

If you can't solder, it's because you're using the wrong combination of iron / flux / solder - it's as simple as that !!

 

I learned to solder tinpate in metalwork at school - a big copper iron heated in a gas flame; good strong tinman's flux that would burn holes in you workshop coat; and a tinman's solder stick.

 

When I tried this with pieces of whitemetal, I quickly had one blob of whitemetal ! The items needed vary according to the job.

 

So - read up on the necessary iron / flux / solder for the material you want to solder; don't imagine that you can do all jobs with a cheapo iron from Lidl, (though they're very good for the right job); and some electrician's multicore solder from Homebase.

 

It's not a magic art, but you wouldn't try and shoe a horse with a pin hammer, or hang a picture with a sledghammer, would you?

 

........... oh - you would? I wouldn't try soldering, then !!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Only one word to add to that John - cleanliness.

[jukebox]

My own experience was Airfix kits then once into railways I began making buildings because I could use card which worked well on my limited budget. Since coming back into the hobby properly it has been a process I would describe as evolving and developing. I have gone from set track to building my own track using SMP parts via the usual Peco route using DCC for loco control but conventional electric point control.

 

I have built Parkside Dundas wagon kits.

 

*snip*

 

Next development? I've ordered the Lochgorm kits starter fret to build a couple of etched wagons to build on my experience with MJT and Mainly Trains etched parts I've used on other wagons. Hopefully within the next 6-9 months I will try building a loco kit or chassis. This is one persons modelling journey and it has worked for me. I have improved my skills enormously though it has taken a very long time because of a hectic work and family schedule. Our hobby is a very broad church and there must always be room for all abilities and tastes. I would describe myself as both an average and broad brush modeller.

 

Martyn

 

Martyn

 

I have followed an almost identical route to you - spent plenty of pocket money in my youth on Airfix kits.

 

I, too have tried they Lochgorm van etches - they are a great place to learn, but I'll leave you with one caveat. For me, at least, they had some fiddly folding/assembly/soldering, that pushed the limits of my skill/patience.  That's more my failing, than Lochgorm's. 

 

I found they are a great place to learn different soldering techniques, and how to become neater with soldering.

 

When I then progressed to a larger mixed media kit, with larger pieces to work on, I found the going a lot easier. 

 

I also found building a whitemetal wagon kit invaluable in learning how much heat that material can take before you damage it - and just as importantly, how much heat is needed to get a secure join. Highly recommended if you graduate to a DJH kit.

 

So by all means, cut your teeth on the vans, but don't be disillusioned if they stump you ~ push on!

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[Focalplane]

The other week I was chatting with the lady at Porthmadog (Portmadoc) Models, who cater primarily to model soldiers, etc. I asked if children like my nine year old grand daughter are still building Airfix kits. Oh, yes, they are still the way to start, she said, and recommended two models that she sees as good starters. First, the Spitfire, second the Cutty Sark. I bought the latter for young Susie and we will build it together later this year. Or I should say that she will build it and I will be nearby to offer assistance if necessary. The kit comes with glue and small pots of paint so there are no extras to buy like in the old days. This could be the start of something bigger as she always asks about my 7mm Legge Lane layout and how it is progressing (or not as is the case during summertime).

[mullie]

Martyn

 

I have followed an almost identical route to you - spent plenty of pocket money in my youth on Airfix kits.

 

I, too have tried they Lochgorm van etches - they are a great place to learn, but I'll leave you with one caveat. For me, at least, they had some fiddly folding/assembly/soldering, that pushed the limits of my skill/patience.  That's more my failing, than Lochgorm's. 

 

I found they are a great place to learn different soldering techniques, and how to become neater with soldering.

 

When I then progressed to a larger mixed media kit, with larger pieces to work on, I found the going a lot easier. 

 

I also found building a whitemetal wagon kit invaluable in learning how much heat that material can take before you damage it - and just as importantly, how much heat is needed to get a secure join. Highly recommended if you graduate to a DJH kit.

 

So by all means, cut your teeth on the vans, but don't be disillusioned if they stump you ~ push on!

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Hope no one minds me asking a question on this thread. I found soldering the body of the J70 relatively easy with temperature controlled iron, flux etc but can some one please advise me on the best way to solder a longer run such as the roof. Soldered from the inside, my main concern was creating too much heat and melting the whitemetal but I couldn't create a long run of solder so ended up with a number of tacks to hold the roof in place. How would others on here solder the roof on? I work alone and am completely self taught so any advice gratefully received.

 

Many thanks

 

Martyn