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The only thing I don't like about the K3 shot is the white roof on the first coach.  It wouldn't be white long at the front of a train.  I'm all for the 'false' backgrounds, as I believe your comments about the eye only 'seeing' what it wants to when 'live' are totally correct.

 

I'm still swooning at the B12's too, correct or not they are lovely models of a fine loco design. 

 

Lovely, lovely photos again, I only wish I had half the modelling skills of those who input to your dream layout.

Don't be too worried about modelling skills and all that. The main thing is to have a go - create something by/for yourself. 

 

As I've said before, I've been very fortunate in my railway modelling career to have been able to work with some very talented people, to the extent that our 'skills' have been symbiotic. Thus, my locos, some painted by Ian Rathbone, pulling stock originated by me, Dave Lewis, Tony Geary, Rob Kinsey, Rob Davey and Mick Peabody, running on track built/laid by Norman Solomon, controlled by signals built by Mick Nicholson and operated by the work of Graham Nicholas, supported by woodwork by Norman Turner and passing buildings by Ian Wilson, all 'work' together. The fact that relatively little money has changed hands is all part of the working together as a team. I realise not everyone has had that sort of privilege, but I've been able to build locos professionally, take pictures professionally and write professionally, which means I've been able to contribute in a practical way to the projects I've been involved with.

 

That said, I'm now more drawn (now that my career has ended), on a personal level to the work of those who've had a go themselves, by themselves. Those like the blokes who came on Wednesday bringing a scratch-built D9 and B3, plus much-improved RTR locos which they've done themselves. Hats off to you I say!

 

So, my good friend, even if you don't half the skills you'd like, in my opinion, it'll still give you enormous pleasure to create something yourself. That's what railway modelling is really about at its core.

 

And, I'm glad you like the pictures - many thanks.  

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Tony, please don't take this the wrong way, but I for one do not give a hoot about all the technical details (I know I know)?  In fact pretty well all I do is scan through to look at the (ER) modelling pictures, which as an ex-pat who cannot get to MR shows values greatly

I think I'm with you at heart. Having given lectures and demonstrations on model railway photography in the past, looking back, most of what I came out with was 'bull****. But, I've been told they were entertaining!

 

I'll make sure I post plenty more pictures of ER models.

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Like lot's of folk who found that once they started building things it was easier to expand into other fields,  I am sure Tony can do a lot more than just loco building  Of course one also discovers there are some things best to avoid as well....!  Tony's layout is one of my favourites and I said this on  here some years ago.  An extremist responded by saying it was irresponsible of me to say that because not everyone has the space or wherewithal to produce such a layout! RMweb really was a wide church in those days..... :locomotive:

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Thanks for the praise Tony as one of the blokes who came on Wednesday and you haven't yet seen any of Dave's kit and scratch built Southern locos yet.

As the bloke who built the D9 & B3 & unfortunately couldn't make it last Wednesday can I add to the thanks for getting a mention.

If you ever fancy an away match in North Norfolk we could entertain you for days and show you some real quality modelling which has all been achieved by a handful of individuals who as well as helping each other were prepared to do just one simple thing,,,, HAVE A GO.  

One of the beautiful things about North Norfolk is you have to make an effort to be here,,, very few just pass through!!!!

 

Regards,

SAD :sadclear:

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I brought a couple of my recently weathered LNER Pacifics (destined for my future layout of Thirsk). For some reason Gadwall didn't wish to run with it's tender (creating a short) but ran fine loco only. One wonders if this A4 knew its future fate in 1942, and felt it best to not move at all! Tony did the kindest thing he could for the old bird and cut the connection to the tender pick ups. As Tony said, this is a bit like trying to cure gout by cutting one's leg off..... however it did cure the problem! 

 

I asked Tony if he could pose the locos in the positions below, and I'm really pleased with the results. Thanks Tony!

 

attachicon.gifTom Foster A1 & A4.jpg

 

attachicon.gifTom Foster A1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifTom Foster A4.jpg

Common problem on Hornby pacifics. Graeme (I believe) pointed out thet Railroad chassis/tenders are wired the "wrong" way round due to the old Tender powered chassis still being used for that Loco. Swop the tender wiring around should cure the problem.

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Two kind gentleman re gauging my Gresley coaches.

post-19999-0-87367000-1397894888_thumb.jpg

 

This was taken just prior to being handed by Tony, the dynamo to glue back onto the underside of a Gresley Coach. The dynamo never reached the coach as this clumsy oaf dropped it on the decking. It bounced, bounced and disappeared through the gap in the decking, into oblivion! 

 

 

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As I said a moment ago in LNER-land "

 

Oh!!!!!  Anybody who wants to read it will have to have a look for themselves. I still can't get anything to copy and paste into RMWeb. I thought I'd cracked the problem, via a new route, but it has made no difference.......

Edited by gr.king
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Allow me! ;)

 


Did Gadwall run at home? Is it all "one loco" or is it from a mixture of sources? Just wondering if you've ended up with opposite polarity loco and tender underframes.......

 

 

Gadwall had only been tested previously with a battery on the wheels when cleaning...as it's a recent one it hadn't run at Grantham before hand.
It is indeed a mixture of sources.... Kingfisher from trainpack with a Mallard Non Corridor Tender. It baffled all of us, as the loco was happy running on it's own, but shorted whenever any tender was attached to it.
Edited by 2750
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As said on LNER Forum the possible cause is the Loco Tender connection this is the wrong way around, unsolder and swap over connection wires.

 

We went for the simpler option....cut the wires and do without the tender pick ups. Wont be required for Thirsk. :)

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Allow me! ;)

 

 

 

 

Gadwall had only been tested previously with a battery on the wheels when cleaning...as it's a recent one it hadn't run at Grantham before hand.
It is indeed a mixture of sources.... Kingfisher from trainpack with a Mallard Non Corridor Tender. It baffled all of us, as the loco was happy running on it's own, but shorted whenever any tender was attached to it.

 

 

I had exactly the same problem yesterday with a Hornby West Country.

 

I tried everything, and ended up cutting the wires - and still the problem persisted!

 

Eventually the problem was traced to a bent contact on the coupling bar - the simple act of placing a coupling pin in the coupling bar hole was providing a short circuit path between the positive and negative contacts.

 

All is now well, and I'm tempted to leave the tender pick-up wires disconnected - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Tom I hope Gilbert sees your lamps on that A4.

Spare cast MJT LNER Dynamo here if you want it.

Phil

Phil,

       I can't remember the source of the lamps, but they seem to look fine on Tom's Pacifics. They're still a twitch too big, but weathered down they'll look even better. In comparison, Springside's BR lamps are gross.

 

Young Foster's abilities abilities seem to go from strength to strength with regard to his weathering techniques. Though not unique in his methods (the processes have been discussed already on this site), I think the effect he achieves with basically RTR models is quite outstanding - apparently Tim Shackleton's DVDs and books have been his guidance, together with hands-on help from elsewhere. However, like all good 'students', he now does things entirely for himself. And the even better news is this - we're now right into horse-trading. I help him with his model kit-building, re-gauging wheels, tweaking stuff for best running, etc, and he's doing weathering for me. Right now he has a V2, but a pair of C12s and a K1 will soon be ready. What could be better - symbiotic modelling. The fact that he's a charming and generous young man should also be acknowledged.

 

Though synergy in modelling is to be encouraged, so too is doing things for yourself. With this in mind, here's my Bachmann K3 modification all but complete, a full report on which will be appearing before too long in BRM. It appeared in BRM originally a couple of years ago and consists of a Bachmann donor, replacement SE Finecast cab, replacement SE Finecast chassis (retaining the Bachmann valve gear and cylinders) and London Road Models GNR tender. It results in an unusual K3 manifestation, but is also greatly improved by having the right-sized driving wheels, with much-enhanced performance - no characteristic Bachmann K3 wobbly-running (though one Bachmann K3 I have runs beautifully - the other two, not so good). It's also converted to right-hand drive.

 

After painting the cab and tender, I lined it with Modelmasters' BR mixed-traffic transfers, then did my usual dry-brush weathering techniques. I wanted a slightly oily/grubby look, and I think it's worked - just. Evidence of a slightly wobbly horizontal lining band on the tender in one of the pictures is actually not wobbly lining work - no, wobbly metalwork, only apparent after being lined. There is the slightest depression in the tender side, and in tight perspective it's apparent. Since the real thing had a slightly 'dented' tender, then I can live with this; especially as it's only really apparent in the pictures. A crew is yet to be fitted, as it performs Up and Down all-stations stopper work through Little Bytham.

 

post-18225-0-95325500-1398106403_thumb.jpg

 

post-18225-0-56069000-1398106414_thumb.jpg

 

post-18225-0-51282700-1398106428_thumb.jpg

 

Because the Bachmann K3 at source only suits the later-build locos - those with left-hand drive and the longer cab with smaller, close-together windows, renumbering to earlier-build locos is anomalous to say the least. Though a few early locos later received left-hand drive, the characteristic 'ecclesiastical'- style cab windows are missing from the Bachmann cab.   

Edited by Tony Wright
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Thanks for your encouragement, Tony.  I do model myself (shock horror, American HO) but most of my work is in the live steam field - engineers fingers are more suited to 16mm scale than 4mm scale I'm afraid.  My HO rolling stock is mostly from kits, I have scratch built wagons in 16mm scale but I take most pleasure from operating layouts of any scale (and driving my r/c controlled live steamers) rather than building.  Horses for courses!

 

I applaud your work towards better running standards, this is why I deserted to the US scene 20 years ago, having failed to make any decent running 16.5 kit chassis the smooth running all wheel drive flywheels and can motors of US outline were my personal heaven.  Recent purchases of some Bachmann 3rd rail stock for a future layout proves they have caught up at last!

 

Little Bytham is inspirational, that is the main thing....I may not reach those standards, but the threads like this and Gilbert's keep me going.

 

Cheers

 

Neil

 

Edit - if I may go off topic a moment - loco by Accucraft, radio control by me, paint and lining by my own fair hand too - it's easier at this size!  Oh, and although the loco is prototypical, my railway is obviously freelance!  The crest bears close examination.

 

post-10195-0-08510900-1398111383_thumb.jpg

 

Edited by New Haven Neil
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Tom's weathering of Herring Gull recently is possibly the best illustration for the hobby of what skills you can acquire after patient learning and repeated practice. Certainly I am yet to see finer weathering than that appear elsewhere: dare I say Tom's weathering of the A1s and A4s recently have the potential to be the best in the business one day soon?

 

If I may throw an image of my own in, I noted you stated previously a few models you had scratch built or bodged over the years, and one I recall (perhaps incorrectly) was the B3/3. I am working on one myself, and have used all manner of things to bodge the locomotive into the right basic dimensions and shapes.

 

post-1656-0-54957900-1398116849.jpg

 

The body shell is a Bachmann B1, cheap to obtain in numbers and a cut and shut of one body shell currently. The chassis is a Hornby B1 chassis, fitted with 6ft 9in Royal Scot drivers from the same firm, modified using plasticard for the balance weights. The cab sides were off a spare Peppercorn A2 cab (no longer required from an A2 to A2/1 build) which were spliced onto a Bachmann B1 cab. The tender is the wrong GCR (ROD) type, but I am hoping the Great British Locomotives magazine may yet provide me with the correct D11 tender body shell required to give the model the full look of a Thompson conversion (!)

 

post-1656-0-22188900-1398116861.jpg

 

The dome is one of Graeme King's excellent pieces.

 

The point I am trying to make is that it's no scratch build but it is fun to try and make something from lots of different parts and then see if it all goes together to make something a bit more than representative but also accepting the limitations of the medium we work in. However (and I am sure Tom feels the same way) it is seeing the modelling of our elders and betters that makes us strive to reduce the compromises and practice further to attain higher standards in future.

 

The next time I build a B3/3 I'll start with a 3D printed body shell and etched frames attached to proper GCR pattern driving wheels and no doubt a better motor and gearbox combination too. It's a learning curve!

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Tom's weathering of Herring Gull recently is possibly the best illustration for the hobby of what skills you can acquire after patient learning and repeated practice. Certainly I am yet to see finer weathering than that appear elsewhere: dare I say Tom's weathering of the A1s and A4s recently have the potential to be the best in the business one day soon?

 

If I may throw an image of my own in, I noted you stated previously a few models you had scratch built or bodged over the years, and one I recall (perhaps incorrectly) was the B3/3. I am working on one myself, and have used all manner of things to bodge the locomotive into the right basic dimensions and shapes.

 

attachicon.gifCIMG8476_1.jpg

 

The body shell is a Bachmann B1, cheap to obtain in numbers and a cut and shut of one body shell currently. The chassis is a Hornby B1 chassis, fitted with 6ft 9in Royal Scot drivers from the same firm, modified using plasticard for the balance weights. The cab sides were off a spare Peppercorn A2 cab (no longer required from an A2 to A2/1 build) which were spliced onto a Bachmann B1 cab. The tender is the wrong GCR (ROD) type, but I am hoping the Great British Locomotives magazine may yet provide me with the correct D11 tender body shell required to give the model the full look of a Thompson conversion (!)

 

attachicon.gifCIMG8479_1.jpg

 

The dome is one of Graeme King's excellent pieces.

 

The point I am trying to make is that it's no scratch build but it is fun to try and make something from lots of different parts and then see if it all goes together to make something a bit more than representative but also accepting the limitations of the medium we work in. However (and I am sure Tom feels the same way) it is seeing the modelling of our elders and betters that makes us strive to reduce the compromises and practice further to attain higher standards in future.

 

The next time I build a B3/3 I'll start with a 3D printed body shell and etched frames attached to proper GCR pattern driving wheels and no doubt a better motor and gearbox combination too. It's a learning curve!

 

 

 

 

Something seems to have gone wrong with where I've placed this response, though I hope this works....

 

Elders and betters? I'm certainly flattered if you consider me to be in this category. And, it's certainly true that I've bodged a few loco down the years, some of which I hope no longer exist. 

 

I'm completely with you in your striving 'to reduce the compromises and practice further to attain higher standards', but, though I find your desire to build the unique B3/3 laudable (I never did build it myself, though I did contemplate it years ago), rather like the joke about the yokel who when asked directions to a certain destination said 'I wouldn't start from here'. I find your ingenuity staggering but, like I once said to Graeme King,  'I think you're mad!' I also find your standard of workmanship incredibly high and cannot argue with your desire to make something yourself, but I honestly believe you're making things harder for yourself than if you actually built something from scratch - in 'Plastikard' if you're happier working in that medium than metal. 

 

Etched frames seem to be a splendid way to go forward, for I'm sure you know that, despite fitting the right-sized wheels, the loco wheelbase on a B3 is different from a B1   - 6' 6" + 5' 11" + 7' 3" + 8' 3" for the B3 and 6' 3" + 5' 6" + 7' 3" + 9' 0" for the B1. Though one might 'fudge' the bogie dimensions, the greater gap between the centre and rear coupled wheels of the B1 (giving a far better ashpan arrangement) does rather spring out.

 

I know the cabside windows are smaller on the B3/3 than on a B1, with more 'land' either side (like the A2 arrangement) but how have you removed the rake-in at the top of the A2 cab, where the window panel is angled in to clear the loading gauge at the eaves? Such ingenuity and craftsmanship astounds me - I'd find scratch-building much easier. Could you not have used a Bachmann K3 cab, with the 'lazy S' cut off? I have one spare if you'd like it. 

 

Nothing of the above should be taken as destructive criticism, for, as I've stated many times before, it's only through guys like you who are prepared to make things for themselves that the craftsmanship element of the hobby will be carried on. Professional craftsmen there'll always be (and those who'll pay for their work) but the 'real' modellers, in my opinion, are the likes of yourself - and those I've met relatively recently (they know who they are) - who actually make things for themselves. So, despite my 'observations', keep up the good work (teacher head on here!) and I look forward to seeing the finished results. If other examples are anything to go on, it'll be splendid! 

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Thanks for your encouragement, Tony.  I do model myself (shock horror, American HO) but most of my work is in the live steam field - engineers fingers are more suited to 16mm scale than 4mm scale I'm afraid.  My HO rolling stock is mostly from kits, I have scratch built wagons in 16mm scale but I take most pleasure from operating layouts of any scale (and driving my r/c controlled live steamers) rather than building.  Horses for courses!

 

I applaud your work towards better running standards, this is why I deserted to the US scene 20 years ago, having failed to make any decent running 16.5 kit chassis the smooth running all wheel drive flywheels and can motors of US outline were my personal heaven.  Recent purchases of some Bachmann 3rd rail stock for a future layout proves they have caught up at last!

 

Little Bytham is inspirational, that is the main thing....I may not reach those standards, but the threads like this and Gilbert's keep me going.

 

Cheers

 

Neil

 

Edit - if I may go off topic a moment - loco by Accucraft, radio control by me, paint and lining by my own fair hand too - it's easier at this size!  Oh, and although the loco is prototypical, my railway is obviously freelance!  The crest bears close examination.

 

attachicon.gifP1180426 (Medium).JPG

Neil,

       Splendid lining by the way - beyond my abilities, even in the larger scale.

 

I'm delighted you find Little Bytham inspirational, and, by association, Peterborough North. It's good that ECML prototype modelling is to the fore, though, architecturally, Little Bytham won't be in the same class as PN. Yes, Ian Wilson and I are working on some interesting models of the buildings and footbridge at LB, but, even though the modest buildings are far less grand overall than those at Peterborough, the architectural modelling on PN is peerless in comparison. Still, the LB buildings might appear as kits eventually, fully in the Prototype Models' tradition. Watch this space. 

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Young Foster's abilities seem to go from strength to strength with regard to his weathering techniques. Though not unique in his methods (the processes have been discussed already on this site), I think the effect he achieves with basically RTR models is quite outstanding - apparently Tim Shackleton's DVDs and books have been his guidance, together with hands-on help from elsewhere. However, like all good 'students', he now does things entirely for himself. And the even better news is this - we're now right into horse-trading. I help him with his model kit-building, re-gauging wheels, tweaking stuff for best running, etc, and he's doing weathering for me. Right now he has a V2, but a pair of C12s and a K1 will soon be ready. What could be better - symbiotic modelling. The fact that he's a charming and generous young man should also be acknowledged.

 

 

You are really too kind Tony, and to say such things after I messed up the M&GN fiddle yard!

 

Yes, Mr Shackleton's DVD was the first step from moving on from weathering powders, to using enamels.....oh and discovering the magic of Klear! Still very much learning and often refer to the Martin Welch book, but feel I've found my own way of doing things now. I use the airbrush less (although it is required for some things) and now do a lot of dry brush work.

 

Two C12s and a K1 you say, something to look forward to!

 

 

Tom's weathering of Herring Gull recently is possibly the best illustration for the hobby of what skills you can acquire after patient learning and repeated practice. Certainly I am yet to see finer weathering than that appear elsewhere: dare I say Tom's weathering of the A1s and A4s recently have the potential to be the best in the business one day soon?

 

I don't know about that Simon, I think I'd have a long way to go to get there, but thanks for the kind words. I'm happy with the results, and that's enough to satisfy me. I've had invites to Scalefour North 2015 and Scaleforum 2015 to demonstrate weathering, which I'm really looking forward to.

Edited by 2750
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Just to add, the K3 looks great....wasn't that still in it's brass tender/cab form when I saw it on Friday? Fast work!

I certainly would like to go down that route. I think a York K3 (no 17) in 1938, had that type cab, right hand drive but a flared out top group standard tender.

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Just to add, the K3 looks great....wasn't that still in it's brass tender/cab form when I saw it on Friday? Fast work!

I certainly would like to go down that route. I think a York K3 in 1938, had that type cab, right hand drive but a flared out top group standard tender.

Thanks Tom, but this mustn't turn into a mutual appreciation scenario.

 

It was indeed the same K3, still in its (note no possessive/contracted apostrophe!) brass tender/cab form you saw last Friday. 

 

With regard to K3s, if you want a K3 with right-hand drive and the earlier-style cab, then modifying the Bachmann original (with a GS flared tender) is the easiest option. Who knows, for the '30s it could have the original Darlington-style cab with NE-type low windows. Every K3 cab style, from GN original through to the Bachmann type is available on the SE Finecast etched fret (the cab roof, other than the GN-style, is a separate casting). Changing the drive side is a doddle - just move the vacuum ejector, fill a few holes and drill a few more, and move the reversing lever across. The replacement cabs fit very easily (even though there's a little bit more footplate exposed at the rear because the Bachmann cab is a bit longer) and it adds a bit of real character to the model. I suppose, for GNR and early LNER modellers, one could use the tallest GNR cab and fit a taller chimney and dome. Maybe someone might report on that in the future. Over to you, Mr King! 

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Much like this, Tony, done at the same time as your article in BRM on a very similar conversion.

 

k3_2.jpg

 

I don't seem to have a picture of it completed, but it became LNER 53 of York shed and hauls the fish train on the Pilmoor layout at Ormesby Hall.  I positioned the cab right back on the frames and filled in the gap at the firebox end (and straightened the roof).  The tender top is Dave Alexander and uses the Bachmann chassis.  Converted to RHD and with Spencer Moulton buffers from Kean Maygib.  I have designs on doing a GN one as well, again after seeing one of yours.

Edited by jwealleans
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Much like this, Tony, done at the same time as your article in BRM on a very similar conversion.

 

k3_2.jpg

 

I don't seem to have a picture of it completed, but it became LNER 53 of York shed and hauls the fish train on the Pilmoor layout at Ormesby Hall.  I positioned the cab right back on the frames and filled in the gap at the firebox end (and straightened the roof).  The tender top is Dave Alexander and uses the Bachmann chassis.  Converted to RHD and with Spencer Moulton buffers from Kean Maygib.  I have designs on doing a GN one as well, again after seeing one of yours.

Interesting Jonathan. 

 

I found the cab sat better if pushed as far forward as it would go, leaving an extended bit of footplate behind. I'll post some comparative pictures later on. 

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