swisspeat Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 I have not tried a Greenkeeper one yet but I have seen it demonstrated at shows in Europe seems to work really well indeed. I have the Noch Profi 3 which works really well though it does take 8 batteries! The Woodlands Static King on mains power works well too. Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Neil P Posted November 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2021 Sorry if I've missed the answer elsewhere on this thread. How do you prevent your grass from getting squashed when you lean over your layout? I'm using the Greenscenes applicator, with a dilute PVA base and WWS layering spray. The end result looks okay, but it's pretty fragile. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted November 22, 2021 Share Posted November 22, 2021 Best way I have found is not to lay on the layout when you lean over - actually, it is the only way that I have found 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted November 23, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2021 Neil, it is fragile but easily 'refreshed' Additional fibres layered will give a good effect. Lightly topped off with some very fine ground foam adds to the effect. This is all layered grasses IIRC, started with 2mm base and then 4mm, 2mm next and topped off with fine ground foam. I do occasionally use longer grasses which I could never get to work using my original 12kv Noch machine but do get better results with the Greenkeeper 35kv machine. Using specific 'basing glue' rather than ordinary PVA do seem to get better results for the longer fibres...don't know quite why...! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Re6/6 said: ... Using specific 'basing glue' rather than ordinary PVA do seem to get better results for the longer fibres...don't know quite why...! I think it has more salt in it, hence the ability to 'distribute' the static charge better than normal PVA - John Lloyd (ex of Green Scene fame) said it is always better to water the PVA down with water direct from the tap as that helps it to conduct the charge - similar principle? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir TophamHatt Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 (edited) I got a GreenKeeper. Used it with WWS grasses. Still needed practice but gave much better results out of the box than the plastic tea strainer fly swatter thing I had before. Edited November 23, 2021 by Sir TophamHatt 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Neil P Posted November 23, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2021 Does spraying the whole thing with hairspray or varnish when it’s finished help at all? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 Gives the layout a pleasant smell if you choose the correct one (ask me how I know that!) Doesn't make any difference when you put your hand down on top of it though, still leaves a handprint 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alphonsus Posted November 27, 2021 Share Posted November 27, 2021 On 23/11/2021 at 10:28, WIMorrison said: I think it has more salt in it, hence the ability to 'distribute' the static charge better than normal PVA - John Lloyd (ex of Green Scene fame) said it is always better to water the PVA down with water direct from the tap as that helps it to conduct the charge - similar principle? Yes, it is. Pure H2O doesn't really conduct electricity at all. It is dissolved salts (of which table salt is only one) that make water (and hence water-based glues) conduct. Tap water has varying amounts of dissolved salts in it - harder water has more (this being why it's harder). Being conductive means more charge available, particularly when the croc-clip is connected to the glue, which completes a circuit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
milocomarty Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 All static grass on the greens, on module as well as pre prepared tufts. I use an acrylic binder or ordinary clear drying waterbased glue for kids. You need to find a glue with a longer open time and not use a skin building glue like ordinary PVA. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted February 15, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 15, 2022 Good to see you back here Martin! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 17, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2022 Morning all, what adhesives are people using for the later layering after the initial glue for the base layer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted February 17, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2022 Chris, I use either the Peco or the WWS layering spray. They give better results than the usual hairspray. Obviously more expensive but worth it! Martin's advice above is correct regarding not using PVA. For base glue I now use WWS stuff. I gave up using PVA after years of poor results (fibres falling over!) I shall have to try kid's glue as it would probably be much cheaper! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted February 17, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2022 Morning Chris, Plus one for the WWS layering spray stuff. SB 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 Make that two. I have found I can use some out of the can and apply it with a small brush for more precise work too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxokid Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 Been making more noch static grass clumps and adding red frozen crayon powders to make flowers,these are my climbing red roses on this building.. 6 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 Wish the roses on my house were that prolific 😆 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gedward Posted October 6, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2022 A small diorama of Bodmin moor I've been working on. 4 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gedward Posted October 6, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2022 4 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Neil P Posted October 6, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2022 5 minutes ago, Gedward said: A small diorama of Bodmin moor I've been working on. Looks excellent and I like the forced perspective of the higher ground towards the back. Do you have any tips or techniques you could share? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gedward Posted October 6, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2022 6 minutes ago, Neil P said: Looks excellent and I like the forced perspective of the higher ground towards the back. Do you have any tips or techniques you could share? Thanks Neil. I've pretty much explained everything in pictures on my thread The Bovey Saga. Take a look there and happy to answer any questions you may have. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gedward Posted October 6, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2022 (edited) On 06/10/2022 at 20:53, Neil P said: Looks excellent and I like the forced perspective of the higher ground towards the back. Do you have any tips or techniques you could share? My first bit of advice would be to get hold of the best reference as possible. But remember, just because it's a prototype, doesn't mean you can't make changes. In fact, because of the immense compression of scope, it's absolutely vital. Secondly, it's well worth paying attention to how colours fade into the distance. Doesn't make any difference whether it's painted or static grass, the same rules apply. Scatter and static grass now come in a huge range of variations of greens. It's important to keep the pale, less vibrant colours to the back of the layout. In order to achieve realism. Edited October 8, 2022 by Gedward Editing copy and typos 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Neil P Posted October 6, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2022 10 minutes ago, Gedward said: Thanks Neil. I've pretty much explained everything in pictures on my thread The Bovey Saga. Take a look there and happy to answer any questions you may have. Great. Thanks. I'll have a look! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted January 30, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 30, 2023 On 23/11/2021 at 09:12, Re6/6 said: Neil, it is fragile but easily 'refreshed' Additional fibres layered will give a good effect. Lightly topped off with some very fine ground foam adds to the effect. This is all layered grasses, started with 2mm base and then 4mm, 2mm next and topped off with fine ground foam. The rear clump is a small piece of sea foam with fine ground foam added. I do occasionally use longer grasses which I could never get to work using my original 12kv Noch machine but do get better results with the Greenkeeper 35kv machine. Using specific 'basing glue' rather than ordinary PVA do seem to get better results for the longer fibres...don't know quite why...! Picture replaced. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 Possibly that the glue component in dilute or otherwise PVA is non conductive? I've layered up all sorts of things to create overgrown and unhealthy areas, this is the most recent as a work in progress. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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