RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted March 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2014 Jason, On the line into Liverpool Street they did something similar to the canopy and it was to do with the valences. The old ones were needing replacing and it was cheaper and easier just to cut them off. Isn't it nice to know your railway has pride in itself! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 9, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2014 Cheers Chris, that makes sense given the state of the paintwork in the second photo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 9, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2014 Just the act of starting something else so that I can swap between projects has helped me concentrate and allowed me to take the pressure off myself. I had a go at fitting the Barnum bogies today. I decided to use a spring around each bolt to increase the riding height of the coach. As you can see in the photo below, the spring was made from 5" of 0.3mm brass wire wound around a round file, and then the same file was used to open out the holes in each bogie and the floor of the coach so that I could pass the bolt through them. I'm thinking of supergluing the nut to the coach floor if I can persuade myself that I won't get glue in the threads . The spring in the, erm, spring will allow me to finely adjust the ride height, and the fact that it isn't too stiff means that the coach doesn't seem to lean to one side. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 9, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2014 Well the fixings worked, but unfortunately the bogies, while they roll on their own, they just want to spend their time bouncing off the rails. I'll add some plastic either side of the bolt just to make sure that it isn't pressing down too hard. cheers Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted March 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2014 Well the fixings worked, but unfortunately the bogies, while they roll on their own, they just want to spend their time bouncing off the rails. I'll add some plastic either side of the bolt just to make sure that it isn't pressing down too hard. cheers Jason You probably just need to add some weight to the coach, Jason, I would imagine the whole thing is way too light at the moment. You really have made a stunning job of this so far mate, you should be really proud. Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 10, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2014 Cheers mate, I'm feeling well chuffed about this. (I've been teaching "well chuffed" to a couple from Arizona today. "Northern" is spreading ). I've added some Dapol couplers to the bogies and for the first time I've been able to pull it along behind my B1 - even on the 2' curves. The couplings are a bit long, but they are exactly the right height, which is a Brucy bonus. You are absolutely right about the weight Al. I think that the bogies aren't quite as free running as I'd hoped, but the bit of extra weight has done wonders. I'm thinking of using lead shot for weight; there is a lot of fishing in the Elk River, so it will be easy to come by. Does anyone have a particular glue preference? I seem to remember some glues expand and cause styrene to warp. I know the bogies are a bit mangled in the photo with regards to the lower bars. I'll sort them out next. Oh, and from now on, I'm going to brace the sides and top when gluing together with some L styrene strip as this has also done wonders in stiffening things up. You'll see on the right I've added some L between the wheels, this will keep the floor from bouncing onto the wheels. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buhar Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Does anyone have a particular glue preference? I seem to remember some glues expand and cause styrene to warp. Avoid lead with PVA, although I think the issue is more prevalent in closed areas. Both thick slow setting superglue and araldite have worked for me on plastic wagon kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I use the thin superglue when adding mass to my rolling stock. If you have a recessed solebars on you coach,,just add 2pieces latterly across to keep the glue away from the bogie mounts, because the stuff will find any gap and spread everywhere. As to the actual weights, I prefer to use some lead roofing flashing first, and lead shot if I can't, due to the gaps between the shot means it will have less mass per volume than the solid piece. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 10, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2014 Thanks everyone. I'll see what I can do about lead flashing, but there's no external construction in the valley this time of year. I was thinking of adding it to the porches at either end. They are above the bogies and you can't see into them - but they are definitely enclosed! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 11, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hi everyone After the crisis of confidence the other day, I've got a process together for those seats. As you can imagine that the "beading" is very springy and fragile, so the possibility of getting the layers out of whack can be quite high - especially after a coffee. I've realised that gluing the beading to the middle seat first with the MEK glue and use tweasers to cajole them into place while using my finger as an anchor, and then following this with the outer seats has really helped. I just do an inch at a time so that I can be sure that the layers line up all the way along the line. Then I turn the lot over and doing the inside layer (the layer that the seat rests on). Here's a photo of the beading and middle layer to show what I mean. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold westerhamstation Posted March 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hi everyone After the crisis of confidence the other day, I've got a process together for those seats. As you can imagine that the "beading" is very springy and fragile, so the possibility of getting the layers out of whack can be quite high - especially after a coffee. I've realised that gluing the beading to the middle seat first with the MEK glue and use tweasers to cajole them into place while using my finger as an anchor, and then following this with the outer seats has really helped. I just do an inch at a time so that I can be sure that the layers line up all the way along the line. Then I turn the lot over and doing the inside layer (the layer that the seat rests on). Here's a photo of the beading and middle layer to show what I mean. IMG_0592.JPG Hi Jason, you really deserve a medal for perseverance, I would have that lot in the bin by now, or all stuck to my hands or glasses, well done.all the best Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted March 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2014 I agree with Adrian, I think you need to avoid coffee for a few weeks for that job!! I know people say I'm patient, but Blimey! Lovely job mate. Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 11, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2014 The next bit with the chairs is gluing them to the strip. At the bottom of the strip of chairs I added a .040" border. This has two benefits, it keeps the chairs at the correct spacing, and it allows me to glue them to the edge of the .040" sheet that represents the floor. To do this I cut the sheet to the correct width, then glued about an inch of the border before inserting the chair ends between the floor and a square. Pressing down between each chair and table leg helps keep everything horizontal. In the photo below, the right hand side has been glued, the left hand side not, which is why it's sticking up a bit higher. You can also see in this photo the line halfway up the chairs that will be used for resting the chair seat. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 12, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 12, 2014 Hi Jason, you really deserve a medal for perseverance, I would have that lot in the bin by now, or all stuck to my hands or glasses, well done.all the best Adrian And I haven't even got to the crazy looking handrails yet! I'm looking for something easier next time, so a clerestory is definitely out. Maybe that tourist coach I did a tutorial on or something while alternating with the station building 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 13, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) Hi there Got a lot more of the interior finished today and I'm almost at the point when I can consider painting! The first photo shows that I've managed to glue on the panels above the windows that don't have sliding vents. I did have these cut out, but they were far too fragile, so I put a scalpel to some plastic square section. It was in a bag marked Ass. So I think it was about .030" square. I've also added the plates on the solebars that go above the bogies and what looks to be a maker's plate next to it. In the meantime the seats have been done all bar the colour. I thought about the paper idea, but it was getting ridiculously fiddly. I'll leave them overnight and see how sturdy they become. If they do ok I may still wallpaper them, but there's every chance they'll be painted Above the coach is a spare side that I'll be using to test different painting ideas. And finally a view that brings them all together. You can see that between each window there is a strip of .015"x.40" styrene. This is used to stiffen between the windows, and to allow me to glue some .040" square strip along the top as an extra stiffener. The .015" means that there are slots between the .040" and the actual sides so that I can insert the windows. The .015" thickness should allow me to easily slide the .010" thick clear panes down. If I ever do this again, I will make sure that these strips will be added before the sides are glued to the floor as it will make everything a lot neater! The great thing is that you can't see the top strip in the small ventilating windows! Now, where can I find eight 2mm x3mm mirrors? I'll tell you now, I won't be providing toilets. Time for tea! Edited March 13, 2014 by JCL 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Now, where can I find eight 2mm x3mm mirrors? I'll tell you now, I won't be providing toilets. I've seen mirrored thin card in craft shops - I wonder if the Silhouette could cut that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobhead Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Bare metal foil could be used for mirrors. Regards, Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 13, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) I've just remembered I have some sticky backed bare metal tape in a 3" roll in the garage. I'll dig it out. So yesterday was really sunny and above 5C so I decided to open the sun roof and head into town. It was glorious, so I wandered into the Beanpod chocolate and coffee house and grabbed a hot chocolate. Putting the drink on the roof so I could get my keys, I managed to grab the cup just as it was about to pour itself onto the beige driver's seat. So today's safety notice is, don't try to put your coffee cup on the roof if your roof has a big hole in it. I can't see anything else that needs to go onto the body sides before painting, so today, if I get time (if spent quite a few hours on this, this week) I'll have a bash at the underframe and tidying up the bogies. Battery box fronts are already made, and I'll use L angle to add the sides, but dynamos etc will have to wait a while. Edited March 13, 2014 by JCL 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 And I haven't even got to the crazy looking handrails yet! I'm looking for something easier next time, so a clerestory is definitely out. Maybe that tourist coach I did a tutorial on or something while alternating with the station building I know that feeling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 14, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2014 Can anyone tell me the best way to install the turnbuckle bracing. I've got the queen posts done and brass wire to hand. Is it better to bend the wire and thread through the posts before attaching to the underframe, or better to attach the queen posts to the underframe posts first, or some other thing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted March 14, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) The way I do it is to have the queenposts cemented to the underframe and then bend the wire and then thread it through, if you are using 0.45mm handrail wire it wire spring through quite easily. Use a bit of small wire insulation as the turnbuckle, I use a bit off some telephone wire. Superglue the ends to the inside of the solebars, making sure that the floor is striaght, and you will find that they actually work! Andy g Edited March 14, 2014 by uax6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 14, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2014 Superglue the ends to the inside of the solebars, making sure that the floor is striaght, and you will find that they actually work! Andy g Aha! I was trying to put the ends through holes in the floor. That's where I was going wrong. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 15, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Here's the state of play this evening (minus the seats). A couple of bits needed for the underframe, but they'll have to wait until the parts come. So it looks like I'm roofing then painting next The bars at the bottom of the bogies were removed and square section was glued in in their places. These seem to be a lot sturdier, and I'd use strip for the bottom from the beginning next time. Edited March 15, 2014 by JCL 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Alister_G Posted March 15, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2014 Umm... before you roof it, shouldn't you glaze it first??? Or are you going to do that after painting? Al. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 15, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Worry not intrepid adventurer! I'll be building the roof as a separate unit on a .040", or .030" floor. The formers will be glued to that, and a sheet of rolled styrene will go over the top. If that doesn't work, it's plasticine. Edited March 15, 2014 by JCL 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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