Havenhouse - the reboot

[Jaz]

Not being an expert I hesitate to reply to the window issue, but with the windows so close, I think one piece is best, considering your other issues, perhaps scoring between the two windows but not cutting so not quite a fold, might perhaps help.

you also have the option here to try the various ways, rather than choose, so test then see which works best. This might be the best way to get your answer,wasting a little materials might have a long term benefit, unless someone comes up wit t he perfect solution.

[JCL]

Thankyou everyone. I'm going to re-read all of your replies in the morning after guest breakfasts (Eggs Benny if anyone fancies coming over).

 

In the meantime, I've scored and cut the outer layer this evening and it's looking pretty cool. I used the Amy Chomas scriber for the score. I was worried that I was going to buy something else that didn't make much difference, but although we aren't talking a great deal more thickness of scored line, it definitely is noticeable and I think was worth the outlay. As Andy said, the unfortunate thing is that it's not easy to photograph without shining a raking light on it. I'm also going to be confirming my order with a store in Blighty for the various fittings that even the cutter can't help with - buffers, handrail knobs, etc.

 

I'll put a couple of photos of this outer layer up in the morning (that'll be my time). I'm really pleased to finally be making a start.

 

See you then.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

p.s. Only -20 this morning, and it'll be getting warmer all week. Not much chance of having to use the lawnmower yet though. My uncle in Wainfleet had his out last week. :-O

[MikeTrice]

I have been giving your window issue some further thought and the answer is 'it depends'. When I tried having opneings in the top of the side it was not very successful for a number of reasons:

• All the layers were laminated from 10thou
• The spaces for the windows with the full 3rd did not leave much support

If on the other hand you are following Jenkinson's approach using 20thou for the inner side and outer side you can probably get away with loading the main glazing from the end, with just the top windows slotted in from the top. You will certainly have lots of opportunity for a stronger arrangement than I had so it should be OK.

[JCL]

Nope, I'm using 10 thou as well as there's no way I can cut those top windows in 20 thou. My only worry with the top drop is having Mike's problem with the kink halfway down the side. I think I'll end up going Mike's way that he's advocating on the 6 wheel thread. The bottom half of the coach can be built up, and I can put another 20 thou layer behind the current 10 thou layers.

 

Here are photos of the first two layers completed. I'm really pleased with how flat they are at the moment. The scoring looks pretty good, with next to no swarf - just dust.

 

 

[JCL]

While the sides are drying under the weight, here's the bogie side resplendent with rivets a la Mike Trice. Now these are going under a weight as well. This is a cruel enlargement as they say, and at normal viewing it shouldn't be too bad - especially once sprayed with primer.

 

I tested rivet pushing on some scrap before doing it for real. Once you've got the pressure even for all of the rivets it doesn't take long, and if you go slightly through, which obviously you'll try not to do, it seems to be not to difficult to recover and push the styrene back. The rive pushing was done with a scribe, but a compass point would be just as useful.

 

Edited to say I left the axle box covers off the top axles for the sake of the photo so you can see the bearings through the middle.

 

Edited February 11, 2014 by JCL

[MikeTrice]

Both the sides and the bogies are looking really good. Keep up the good work.

[JCL]

Thanks Mike

 

Here we go, the two bogie frames glued up. A bit of fettling to do, but not too shabby. I'm pleased that I made that top horizontal layer into the top flange, it made it much easier to line up the sides.

 

 

I know it's cross posting, and I hope nobody minds, but for completeness I'll post this photo up onto the tutorial thread.

 

cheers

 

Jason

[emt_911]

Jason

 

Some exceptional work there. Looking forward to seeing this complete.  

 

Duncan

[JCL]

Hi there

 

These bogies have been getting up my nose today (ahem). The wheels I'm using have a different axle length from point to point to the ones I was going to use, so I've had to slice off the sides and redo them. I'm going to cut the floor out now that I know that the sides haven't stretched with the scribing. At some point the bogies will be fixed to the floor, so I was wondering what people do to make sure the coach doesn't wobble? Is it just a case of cutting washers from plastic?

 

cheers

 

Jason

[Buhar]

I've used wire out-riders in the past and I have heard that corn-plasters do the trick too.

[freebs]

Wow, Jason, this is really superb modelling. Props to you my friend!

[jrg1]

Hi there

 

These bogies have been getting up my nose today (ahem). The wheels I'm using have a different axle length from point to point to the ones I was going to use, so I've had to slice off the sides and redo them. I'm going to cut the floor out now that I know that the sides haven't stretched with the scribing. At some point the bogies will be fixed to the floor, so I was wondering what people do to make sure the coach doesn't wobble? Is it just a case of cutting washers from plastic?

 

cheers

 

Jason

Axle lengths tend to be short, and assuming the brass bearings are waisted, they can be packed on the rear face with washers, to save surgery on the bogie.  To stop wobble, large washers can be used-one washer on one bogie  having transverse wire, and the other bogie having one longitudinal wire, to mimic three-point location. 

[uax6]

Good looking work there sonny!

 

For the bogies I would have a largeish plasticard circle for them to sit on. You can make this out of different thickness of sheet so that you can get the ride height correct (midpoint of buffers 14mm). If you were feeling fancy you could make the washer a sort of bullseye shape ( something like -O- ) so that there is support across the whole width of the bogie - mind you with this you will need to have the fixing screw loose with a light spring around it so that the bogies can move about a bit....

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Thanks everyone. I'll do the washer in the centre around the pivot point to get the right height, and wire towards the sides to minimise wobble while being unobtrusive. I'm currently working out the shape of the base while taking into account the bits of plastic that will overlap or butt up etc. My brain is starting to hurt as I try to call up school technical drawing lessons. I think I'm about there, but I feel there may be more staring time needed...

[JCL]

Well this is new! I've found that I can get plastic to warp in a completely different way to normal. Looks like I'll be recutting the top side. That said, I've come on with the floor of the carriage, so I'll cut that tonight and get on with it tomorrow.

 

 

edited to say, ah, and the cutter won't cut .040", so I've been armed with a ruler, a drawing and a scalpel this evening. Very restful...

Edited February 13, 2014 by JCL

[JCL]

I've decided to print out the plans as well as cut them so that after I've glued up each section, say a side, or the floor, I can make sure that everything is square. Of course if I'm careful with the glue this shouldn't matter, but I'm a clumsy oaf at times!

 

Measure twice, cut once, compare once.

[Alister_G]

Well this is new! I've found that I can get plastic to warp in a completely different way to normal. Looks like I'll be recutting the top side. That said, I've come on with the floor of the carriage, so I'll cut that tonight and get on with it tomorrow.

 

IMG_0460.JPG

 

edited to say, ah, and the cutter won't cut .040", so I've been armed with a ruler, a drawing and a scalpel this evening. Very restful...

 

That's strange, I would have expected if anything for it to warp the other way - i.e. away from the area with most cuts in it...

[uax6]

It's not an unusual shape of warpage there. I have done the same to one of my sides. Now I intend to make a 6-wheeler with the sides exactly that shape, to show the effect of weak frames....

 

Now I'm going to suggest something cutting edge here: Don't use solvent to stick the 10 thou together! What I here you say? Indeed. Richard (Ben Alder) was talking to a boat modeller who mentioned that he never uses solvents on 10thou, using paint instead. This morning I tried some experiments. The first set of sides was put together with Humbrol Clear, well don't waste your time as this stuff doesn't stick the together.

 

The next set were stuck together with Humbrol satin varnish. One side only was varnished and the two sides put together wet. This seems to work.

The last set were again stuck together with the varnish. Both sides were varnished, and then left alone until they went sticky. At this point the two sides were put together. Looking good so far.

 

I can't give you a full outcome as I've come to work leaving the sides between two glass tablemats with weights on to dry.

 

Might be the way forward? Or is there a solvent free glue that will work?

 

Andy G

[gazman424]

Hi All,

 Regarding the laminations of 10 thou., I've been using, with success, 'Di-Limonene' solvent as advocated by Barry Norman and Geoff Kent in various issues of MRJ. It doesn't have the initial grab of other solvents but gives you more time to work layers into the correct position before leaving to harden. My little projects are coming along nicely, and will post some pics when I've had the camera out!

Gaz.

[uax6]

Gaz,

 Where do you get it from please?

 

Andy G

[gazman424]

Hi Andy/All,

 Hobby Holidays stock it;

 

http://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/products.php?cat=45

 

 

Just scroll down the page and it's listed under 'Limonene'.

Hope this is successful for you if you try it!

Gaz.

[JCL]

Hi Al, I was worried that all of that scribing had caused it, but the other side is perfectly straight. Then looking at the back, I seem to have overglued a small section of the top.

 

Hi Andy, that's pretty interesting, I have some of said varnish in a spray can, so I'll be interested in how you get on with it over the next couple of weeks.. I'll have a hunt around google as well to see if there's anything.

 

Hi Gaz, I found this on Wikipedia

 

Limonene is increasingly being used as a solvent for cleaning purposes, such as the removal of oil from machine parts, as it is produced from a renewable source (citrus oil, as a byproduct of orange juice manufacture). It is used as a paint stripper and is also useful as a fragrant alternative to turpentine. Limonene is also used as a solvent in some model airplane glues. All-natural commercial air fresheners, with air propellants, containing limonene are used by philatelists to remove self-adhesive postage stamps from envelope paper.[9]

 

Limonene is also finding increased use as a solvent for filament-fused 3D printing. Printers can print the plastic of choice for the model, but erect supports, and binders from HIPS, a polystyrene plastic, that are easily solvable in Limonene.

 

I'll have a hunt on google for this too as the only thing I've seen over here so far with it in is a "goo" remover.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

[JCL]

It seems to be in hair braid remover as well. :-/

[gazman424]

Hi Again,

 Model Railway Journals 206 & 210 are the issues in question. Hope this helps further.

Gaz.

[JCL]

It's been a bit quiet modelling this week because I'm waiting for some more plasticard to come through. While I'm waiting for it I decided to play around in Inkscape and see if I can work out easier ways of doing things. I was also looking at some photos of teak carriages and though I'd have a go at LNER lettering and the teak effect. Well the lettering was traced over in Inkscape, and a first try at teak was put together in Photoshop to produce the following:

 

 

The original photo that I found wasn't the best, but I don't think I'm too far off the mark.

If anyone has any numbers I thought I might have a go at them next...

 

Edited to remove link, see below.

Edited February 19, 2014 by JCL